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About two months ago, my Uncle’s 2010 GL550 began to experience an uneven ride level, but just on the left side of the vehicle. Both front and rear sides of the car were lower as compared to the right. He called me to assist with helping him find the problem, as he relies on me for basic repairs of his vehicles.
Anyway, upon inspection, there was a discernable hiss coming from the front left air strut. Upon applying soapy water to the air bladder, it was obvious the bladder was leaking air. I suspected there may be a problem with the other three corners, so I checked them, and they were all functional. I told my uncle to order new front air struts. Unfortunately, it took him about one month to receive the strut. Yes, he ordered only one strut! Anyway, I replaced the front left strut (Arnott, nice quality unit, and installation was very simple).
This definitely fixed the air leak problem, but the car was still lower on the left side (front and rear). I checked all three other air struts for leakage, and all were holding air. Another week later, he calls and tells me his right front air bladder exploded. So, he orders another air strut, and I replace it……same story, car still sits lower on the entire left side.
Thinking perhaps a front level sensor was bad or malfunctioning, I swapped the left and right sides, as to perhaps re-create the problem on the opposite side. After swapping, the car still sits lower on the left side.
Checked the rear bladders again for leakage……they hold air. But, I now notice after about 1-minute, I see a “malfunction” message on the display. The compressor stops working, and the car simply stands with an uneven posture. I shut the car off for a few minutes, start the car back up, I hear the compressor kick in, it runs for about a minute, shuts off, and “malfunction” appears on the display.
Could the compressor be warn as a result of running continuously so long in between the first repair (Uncle was driving car for about one month with a leaking front left strut)? My uncle said the “malfunction” message illuminated firstly after the front right strut exploded.
Perhaps the system need to be re-set using the Star System by the dealership?
I’m really confused with this problem, anybody else experience a similar situation?
Once your GL450 becomes 6 years old you will soon replace air bladders and struts but not necessarily the compressor. Ideally, replacements should be done all at once - but usually this does not happen as it is very costly. So, you replace one by one through the years and you loose the sense of what is really happening...start blaming sensors. Sensors are not an issue usually.
About two months ago, my Uncle’s 2010 GL550 began to experience an uneven ride level, but just on the left side of the vehicle. Both front and rear sides of the car were lower as compared to the right. He called me to assist with helping him find the problem, as he relies on me for basic repairs of his vehicles.
SID YOU FIND AN ANSWERR?
Anyway, upon inspection, there was a discernable hiss coming from the front left air strut. Upon applying soapy water to the air bladder, it was obvious the bladder was leaking air. I suspected there may be a problem with the other three corners, so I checked them, and they were all functional. I told my uncle to order new front air struts. Unfortunately, it took him about one month to receive the strut. Yes, he ordered only one strut! Anyway, I replaced the front left strut (Arnott, nice quality unit, and installation was very simple).
This definitely fixed the air leak problem, but the car was still lower on the left side (front and rear). I checked all three other air struts for leakage, and all were holding air. Another week later, he calls and tells me his right front air bladder exploded. So, he orders another air strut, and I replace it……same story, car still sits lower on the entire left side.
Thinking perhaps a front level sensor was bad or malfunctioning, I swapped the left and right sides, as to perhaps re-create the problem on the opposite side. After swapping, the car still sits lower on the left side.
Checked the rear bladders again for leakage……they hold air. But, I now notice after about 1-minute, I see a “malfunction” message on the display. The compressor stops working, and the car simply stands with an uneven posture. I shut the car off for a few minutes, start the car back up, I hear the compressor kick in, it runs for about a minute, shuts off, and “malfunction” appears on the display.
Could the compressor be warn as a result of running continuously so long in between the first repair (Uncle was driving car for about one month with a leaking front left strut)? My uncle said the “malfunction” message illuminated firstly after the front right strut exploded.
Perhaps the system need to be re-set using the Star System by the dealership?
I’m really confused with this problem, anybody else experience a similar situation?
when u finish ur install the struts make sure dont get the jack off right away . low the jack slowly and see both side is balance and start the engine let it run for 5 or 10 min cus its will balance the same height. thats my idea cus i did my cls550 . hope this work out for u
Checked the rear bladders again for leakage……they hold air. But, I now notice after about 1-minute, I see a “malfunction” message on the display. The compressor stops working, and the car simply stands with an uneven posture. I shut the car off for a few minutes, start the car back up, I hear the compressor kick in, it runs for about a minute, shuts off, and “malfunction” appears on the display.
Could the compressor be warn as a result of running continuously so long in between the first repair (Uncle was driving car for about one month with a leaking front left strut)? My uncle said the “malfunction” message illuminated firstly after the front right strut exploded.
Resurrecting this thread as I am also seeing this on my 2010 550 over the last little while. Right side is lower (1.5 inches front, 1.25 inches rear). The difference is always the same, whether the car is running or it has been parked for a few hrs or a few days and the Airmatic is in Auto mode. If I were to change the ride height manually ( from auto to sport or comfort) there is still a difference in the right vs left side. I have noticed that when the car is changing height, it seems to be doing it one side first, then the other - I think right, then left, but not sure. I assume this is by design and not a byproduct of the difference in the height of the right and left side.
I scanned the car today with MBII and noticed that there are differences in the values the scanner read (datastream values were mostly the same with the car running and the key in position 2 with dash lights on)
B22/8 (Left front level sensor) 3.02 V
Left front vehicle level -37mm
B22/9 (Right front level sensor) 1.94 V
Right front vehicle level -32mm
B22/7 (Left rear level sensor) 2.55 V
Vehicle level at rear left -3mm ( yes, neg 3 mm, it is not a typo)
B22/10 (Right rear level sensor) 2.90 V
Vehicle level at rear right -24mm
Voltage was measured at 11.80 V with the key in position 2, and 14..20 with the car running
Compressor operating time 372655s (I presume this is a lifetime count).
I don't believe there is an air leak from the bags/hoses. I've read the compressor could be weak at 8 bars, which is what it read when I ran the car, and slightly under 8 bar with key in position 2.
I would love to hear what all this means before I get into my "mechanic uniform"
The car raises front vs back, not left vs right. It could be the current stance that you have right now, that's causing the confusion.
Start by disconnecting each level sensor, popping off the arm, clean the socket/ball, then grease and put them back on. If that doesn't do it, have the sensors checked/reset. It could still be an air bag issue, but I'd start with these other things, first.
Resurrecting this thread as I am also seeing this on my 2010 550 over the last little while. Right side is lower (1.5 inches front, 1.25 inches rear). The difference is always the same, whether the car is running or it has been parked for a few hrs or a few days and the Airmatic is in Auto mode. If I were to change the ride height manually ( from auto to sport or comfort) there is still a difference in the right vs left side. I have noticed that when the car is changing height, it seems to be doing it one side first, then the other - I think right, then left, but not sure. I assume this is by design and not a byproduct of the difference in the height of the right and left side.
I scanned the car today with MBII and noticed that there are differences in the values the scanner read (datastream values were mostly the same with the car running and the key in position 2 with dash lights on)
B22/8 (Left front level sensor) 3.02 V
Left front vehicle level -37mm
B22/9 (Right front level sensor) 1.94 V
Right front vehicle level -32mm
B22/7 (Left rear level sensor) 2.55 V
Vehicle level at rear left -3mm ( yes, neg 3 mm, it is not a typo)
B22/10 (Right rear level sensor) 2.90 V
Vehicle level at rear right -24mm
Voltage was measured at 11.80 V with the key in position 2, and 14..20 with the car running
Compressor operating time 372655s (I presume this is a lifetime count).
I don't believe there is an air leak from the bags/hoses. I've read the compressor could be weak at 8 bars, which is what it read when I ran the car, and slightly under 8 bar with key in position 2.
I would love to hear what all this means before I get into my "mechanic uniform"
I would start with just re-calibrating car level on even surface with your MBII and see what happens.
I would start with just re-calibrating car level on even surface with your MBII and see what happens.
The MBII can do a re-cal? I just got one of those (the newer version, but same idea). I have read the sensor level info (for fun), but I didn't realize it would do a re-cal.
The MBII can do a re-cal? I just got one of those (the newer version, but same idea). I have read the sensor level info (for fun), but I didn't realize it would do a re-cal.
My apologizes, I thought that MBII is the same as DAS Xentry,- I would use it to recalibrate.
The car raises front vs back, not left vs right. It could be the current stance that you have right now, that's causing the confusion.
Start by disconnecting each level sensor, popping off the arm, clean the socket/ball, then grease and put them back on. If that doesn't do it, have the sensors checked/reset. It could still be an air bag issue, but I'd start with these other things, first.
What should I use to grease the sockets/*****? Does silicone grease seem like the right compound for this? I'm afraid oil based grease compounds will collect dirt quickly and make a worse mess of it in no time.
Recalibration is not something I can do at this point as I don't have DAS at my disposal. I'm headed in that direction, but it seems not as fast as I should have been.
At least two years ago, I greased the ones on my vehicle. I just used some waterproof bearing grease as I had it lying around. It's plenty sticky. Last time I had a wheel off, I don't remember seeing anything to worry about in regards to what you are saying. Usually what happens is that the grease get a layer of dirt on the "outside", but that's about it. I'm not saying don't use the silicone - just that regular grease would be fine, too. Maybe the regular grease is actually better in this case? Since it will cover up the gap between the ball/socket and prevent debris from entering, including water. Buy maybe I'm thinking too much
Any MB shop (or decent Indy) can do the recal for you, if needed.
At least two years ago, I greased the ones on my vehicle. I just some waterproof bearing grease as I had it lying around. It's plenty sticky. Last time I had a wheel off, I don't remember seeing anything to worry about in regards to what you are saying. Usually what happens is that the grease get a layer of dirt on the "outside", but that's about it. I'm not saying don't use the silicone - just that regular grease would be fine, too. Maybe the regular grease is actually better in this case? Since it will cover up the gap between the ball/socket and prevent debris from entering, including water. Buy maybe I'm thinking too much
Any MB shop (or decent Indy) can do the recal for you, if needed.
Thanks for pointing out the linkages for the sensors. I found out the rear sensors were replaced a couple of years ago so I was planning to focus on the fronts more so than the rears, although I did give the rears a good look. It turned out to be the left front. The bottom ball of the linkage was seized solid. A diesel bath along with some scrubbing with a toothbrush and semi gentle persuasion broke the rust and grime apart. I managed to get it moving about as good as the upper one. Greased and mounted back on the car and she is now level. The seized joint of the linkage was keeping the left side much higher than it was supposed to be. I'll probably order a replacement for the left front as I am sure it will start to seize again, but this bought me some time.
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Thanks again for the suggestion. I would not have thought to look there first.
EXCELLENT! I'm glad that helped. It's nice when you get a "freebie" fix as we don't get those all too often. Keep it greased well and it should never seize up again.
i have a 2011 Mercedes c300 that has water only in the back passenger floor board. I did notices there’s water sitting in my sun roof when I pulled it back.
when I push the carpet under the passenger seat the water comes out ... could this all by my sunroof?
also, it takes my car 3-4 key turns to start.. is the water messing my electrical up? This is where the water comes from passenger seat.. water is only in the back Passenger floorboard The water you can see on the left but on the right is the front of my sun roof and it’s all across to the drivers side ... but most of the water is sitting towards the passenger side
09-07-2015, 04:43 PM
