alx

You are playing with fire... Stop experimenting

Stop swapping relays and fuses. Put old relay in. Check fuses for continuity. Then read car with das. There will be codes and you can actuate Airmatic components to verify functionality.

Instead of spending $400 for new compressor spend that money on a star/ das setup. It will pay off the first time you use it.

eric_in_sd

As always, alx steps in with the seriously excellent advice.

Can you recommend the easy route to getting set up with STAR? I've been thinking about getting my own setup.

alx

The easy way is to buy from eBay from a vendor with lots of positive feedback and sold units. The multiplexers are all identical, the difference is in the vm image you will get from the vendor and support if you have an issue. You can also get help on *******.com

eric_in_sd

Thanks! I guess I wasn't looking in the right place.

Geez - so it ranges from about a $thousand for a MB official item
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DEALE...0AAOSwo0JWJwHT

to a semi official thing - meant for use on a PC, I guess
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Profe...4cm0Oz4b2j-lRQ

to a made in china thing
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...IAAOSwo6lWGmPm

to a more minimalist type of thing
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...QAAOSwT5tWIJM4

You have any experience with the various handheld units? I can imagine that they probably all function but could really be hit or miss.

Captincvmn

Here is one I found that I'm extremely hesitant to trust or buy but it does look like an official item. I just don't see any screen and don't know if this just enables you to hook your vehicle up to a laptop for diagnosis. I'm only used to using an OBDII scanner.

http://www.buyobdtool.com/wholesale/...t-ibm-t30.html

http://www.buyobdtool.com/wholesale/mb-star-c3-pro-with-seven-cable-fit-ibm-t30.html

WilliamPryor

Another update... Thanks for the advice alx. I am thinking that I will eventually end up at the dealership and let them know test with the das/star setup. I hate to do that, but I am out of ideas. I ordered a direct replacement relay and put it in today. The GL cranked right up, but the compressor still did not come on. Could the computer be telling it to not turn on? These compressor issues seem very plug and play to me and I just don't get why it doesn't turn right on with a new compressor and a new relay. Would unhooking the battery for 30 minutes or so reset the computer, maybe?? Thanks to all for the help!

alx

There is no diy reset for the compressor...

WilliamPryor

Quick update... I am having the same issue as BMarques on his thread. The GL is at my mechanics right now and he cannot figure out why the compressor is not getting any power. He reset everything he said, and checked the fuses and everything appears fine. He is going to call the Tech line for Mercedes if need be, but he is hoping he can figure it out without having to do that. Anyone else ever had this issue, where a newly installed compressor (with relay) will not come on after it has been replaced?? Thanks!

WilliamPryor

Quick Update.... My mechanic did have the the proper tools and with the help of the MB Tech line he determined that the fuse box was burnt up. He said the tech told him he had seen this before when people would switch around the relays, like I did... I feel like an idiot! Anyway, I went and picked up the GL this morning and after driving for a bit I noticed that the back passenger side was sagging. It would come up some, but not inflate all the way. I could hear air wooshing out of it, when I stood back by the rear of the car. Everything else seemed fine on the car. Air compressor came right on, but it would not air up the rear passenger side all the way. So, I took it back by the mechanic to have him look at it. I am hoping that all it is the rear passenger side airbag. Thanks for all the help I have received on here!
P.S. Anyone want to buy a 2008 GL 450 with 47,000 miles on it?

clvincent

lol

william once you get the air suspension lined out you will love it again

sounds like just the air bag, hoping that it is and is cheap to fix

Captincvmn

I have a passenger side set coming from Rebuild MasterTech. Should be a hoot to install.

d52232dole

I bought 2007 GL450 w/ 70k miles, and its in service now to replace 4 suspension, rear air springs... will share more tomorrow to see any diff...

BlownV8

Make sure you get Arnott airbags and not OE. The OE's do not last very long.

Captincvmn

I did both front and rear bags, wasn't a bad operation. I got the front strut/bag combo.

eric_in_sd

Did you figure out how the cost compared between them and Arnott?

Captincvmn

I'd have to sit down and figure it up. Maybe tonight.

Captincvmn

Core charge from both is the same and I'm sure shipping varies. Arnott has the street cred but my wallet feels that Rebuild MasterTech was a good choice. I spoke with RMT on the phone and the lady I spoke with was knowledgeable. Free return shipping on core.

eric_in_sd

Looks like it's free shipping both ways for both companies. Wow - RMT is like 40% cheaper. I wonder if the shock inside is the same quality, or Arnott is simply charging more. Keep us posted on your longer term results, so others can benefit.

Anyway, congrats on the fix. You saved enough $$$ to buy yourself a beer.

d52232dole

Updated: after front shocks replaced, much better. Waiting for rear shocks..

WilliamPryor

Captincvmn - Did you replace the suspension parts yourself? Thanks for the info on RMT! I hadn't ever heard of them. I have a front air bag that is periodically down now, so I am thinking about replacing with the one you posted above, that price is hard to beat! I don't know if my mechanic will let me order the parts if he is doing the work. His price on parts is unbearable high.... I think I would be better off going to the dealership. He wanted to charge me $600 to replace one airbag in the rear. I asked him how much he was charging me for the part and he said it was $387. He ended up letting me order it myself and he put it in. Maybe he will let me do that again!

Captincvmn

I did the passenger side front and rear airbags myself at home. The rear airbag was very easy to do. The front airbag was a little scary but it worked out fine. The hardest part of the front was taking the swaybar links off because you need to have a torx socket to get them off. The front will require some big wrenches but overall it was not a bad job. I did watch the YouTube video showing which fuses to pull so the air suspension would not come on while I was doing the job.

WilliamPryor

Captincvmn - Thanks for the info. I am going to unhook the battery before I do any of this. I don't plan to unhook anymore fuse relays (see previous posts in this thread). I think I have a large set of torx sockets that I picked up awhile ago thinking that I might need them, so I should be good on that front. I don't have a large set of metric wrenches, so I might need to pick up some of those. I have plenty of sockets though. Any other obstacles in changing out the front strut?

islandbeef

That's the beauty of having an Independent mechanic you trust...he/she can help you find different ways to save money, maintain your car and they're not out to screw you. If you can find the proper part, installation is all they charge you for. A sweet deal.

I've been using the same Euro car mech for over 15 years for my Land Rovers, BMW and now my Mercedes.

Captincvmn

I did watch the Arnott you tube video on changing the part and I found it to be helpful. Taking the upper A arm ball joint off wasn't bad and the bolt holding the strut to the lower A arm was tight but also not bad. Where I struggled was the sway bar ball joint. I had a torx but in a packet not a single socket. That would be ideal with a box end wrench to turn the nut. On the passenger side I took out the air filter cover for better access and also took one of the bolts out of the stiffening bar for better access. I also found the 10mm fitting to be a pain in the *** but more time consuming than difficult.

One thing that I did not do was disconnect the small plastic link that attaches the height sensor to the A arm. I noticed I was bending it and tried to be careful, if it is easily removed I'd do it to avoid breaking the link or sensor.

The plastic tie wrap holding the two sensor wires to the strut has a pin arrangements that locks it into place. I pushed the pin through allowing the tie wrap to open up and then reused it.

Best of luck, go slow and be careful. Take pictures of before for reference upon reassembly. Took about three hours from "guess I'll see how far I'll get with the rear" to having both front and rear done on passenger side and a completed test drive. I did also complete this project wearing slippers.