digitalhomer

So I installed the cord for the block heater and the weather is still around 0F. I can report that having the car plugged does make starting easier as it cranks over only once and fires right up. Without the cord it was cranking over a couple of times maybe even 4 before firing up. So in summary I would say that I am happy I shelled out the $120 for the cord since it gives me peace of mind that the truck will be ok every morning no matter the temps. Now it's only a matter of time until my wife takes off with the cord still plugged in

This looks like a plug and play and quite easy to install yourself.
https://order.germanparts.ca/product...pe=APPLICATION

alx

good riddance. a car is always worth more when stolen vs when you sell it. so as long as it is stolen and not found- the owner is better off financially. that is why i have zero worries about any of my regular cars stolen. be gone. lol

now on the subject. every communication between the vehicle and the key is encrypted with a different key. so replays dont work (they did for a short period of time for some model years because of implementation bug narrowing the pool of keys, but that is now a non-issue).

the problem is repeaters/ power amps and there is no defense against them. in a nut shell - the thief carries a power amplifier with him - approaches your car, touches the door handle, the car calls for the key- normally it is a very low-power transmission that can travel only a few feet to find a key. the power amp amplifies the signal so it can travel a longer distance - often 150 feet or more and.. it finds your key. the key transmitter is also very weak, but guess what - there is another guy in close proximity to you with the same power amp/ transmitter to "facilitate" your key communications. works well if you are in a restaurant or sitting anywhere somewhat close to your car and yet not in a direct line of sight. the thief gets in and presses the start button, signal goes to his power amp, gets received by the second guy's power amp and the answer (ok, start engine) is transmitted back to the vehicle.

this is pretty much the scheme used to currently steal all keyless entry vehicles and since repeaters are transparent - there is no easy solution.

BlownV8

Not the case when your car has extensive modifications. Insurance does not typically cover the expensive additions to your car like custom wheels or engine modifications.

alx

.. which also have pretty much zero value when reselling...

BlownV8

Not true. I pay more for a car with the right modifications. They do have value on the private sales side. Dealership - not so much........

Fishnut1

Valid points on all sides, thereby, validating the "Club" if you value your car, and the mods that personalize it for your preferences. Those of us who are retired, supposedly have the rest of our lives, unencumbered with a daily work schedules, so we have time to spend on the inconvenience of a stolen vehicle. Few, if any insurance companies will reimburse you for the time you have to spend, recovering your life, and tranquility from a vehicle stolen. They used to Hang horse thieves, as in most cases, equestrian transportation was a life supporting necessity, not just another vehicle. To avoid the inconvenience and upset to my life, I purchased the "Club", for $37.00, and consider it a safe and secure part of my insurance program. Hopefully, it keeps my 'horse' tied to the hitching post, where I left it. Otherwise, "Git a rope"..

Fishnut1

alx

If you truly don't want your car stolen- have a fuel pump disengage remote controlled relay installed. It is usually simple enough yet throws off the break-in and drive away kind of thief.

The club is a great idea but modern steering wheels are very soft and cutting them is a snap job.

If a thief really wants your car... you know how that one goes...

Fishnut1

Good idea with the fuel cut/off relay... the Club is just a delay mechanism, and not the end all for protection. After all, they got into the Pyramids, didn't they? It took about 2000 years, but they still got in. You just have to make it more trouble than its worth.. then most thieves will leave it alone, and go on to something easier.

Fishnut 1

alx

while true overall, the "make mine harder to steal so they move on" is not a valid logic towards high end cars like ours. if somebody wants to steal a mercedes/bmw/audi/etc it is usually because s/he wants your particular car and there is usually no other target in the vicinity. the effort will require some recon, usually two guys with equipment... not your typical smash-and-grab junkie crowd. a crew often will want your particular model as they have an "order" to fulfill (south america, eastern europe, russia, sub-sahara africa). generally low end cars gets stolen for parts regardless of age, high end newer cars are stolen to be resold.

thus 30 seconds more to snip the club is well worth their effort on a mercedes while as you mentioned- not so on a toyota as the next "suitable" target is usually parked nearby.
MBWorld Fanatic!


you my friend are a minority

Fishnut1

All valid points Alx, its true, that while our cars are targeted for a different market, and not the common 'smash & grab' thief. The 'Common' label indicates a much larger likelihood of that type of crime, as opposed to the selective theft. True, the club does not prohibit theft, but carrying around a bolt cutters is a little more obvious, and exhibits the type of profile that selective thieves probably want to avoid. I would think that selective thieves, are also selective in the areas they frequent, ie Macy's and not WalMart shoppers. Bigger towns, not small town main street so much. Blending into upscale shoppers, while carrying bolt cutters, is a bit more problematic. Not so much in Northern climates, with trench coats, but less likely in Palm Beach. Our cars are just stolen by upscale thieves, despite the precautions taken.

Fishnut1

BlownV8

Only because I like modified cars but not a minority. Try to buy a twin-turbo Corvette, Viper, AMS Alpha GTR, a RUF Porsche, or Hennessy anything for book value and you will be laughed out of the room. There is a huge market that will pay a premium for modified cars.

alx

I had a twin turbo viper and probably one of the first t88 turbo supras back in the late 90ties yet I would not buy a heavily modded car even if my life depended on it. But obviously ymmv.

Btw, if you were in the know you would know that Hennessey is a dirty word. It is even banned on some of the viper forums

a2j

I also own a modified hobby vehicle and completely agree with not buying a heavily modded car.... unless price is right

Fishnut1

More features, more bugs...Newer cars come with enough stock features, to provide more bugs than a South Texas rice paddy. What ever happened to function over form? Many an older MB easily went 500K and more, without all the dealership pampering required of today's cars. Granted, my GL 320 CDI is a dream to drive, but the mental hot-foot, of "What will fail next", is disconcerting to say the least. Not the peace of mind I had with 60's & 70's MB's of yesteryear.

Fishnut1

digitalhomer

So much for the cold start

SndsoftheSbrbs

In the Upper Midwest we had a bitter cold spell recently. Both of my cars had no issues with the below zero temperatures and snow.

DennisG01

Yoni, are either of the cars you're talking about diesels? If so, which models?

Fishnut1

Morning Dennis, Yoni94 lists two MB's but neither look to be diesels. I see you have listed the same model that I have, and unless you have had cold weather starting issues, I expect that neither will I.

Fishnut1

DennisG01

Hi Nut

Yeah, I wasn't sure if maybe he had something different than what was listed? Or maybe he just responded without realizing the thread was about diesels?

I've never had an issue with it actually starting/not starting. It does crank (very) noticeably slower as the temps drop below freezing. But it has always (even with a new battery) cranked slow for the first couple cranks, then it speeds up. I should probably post a short video so it makes more sense - would also help others to be able to listen and compare. I haven't checked every single battery connection/ground under the hood. But what I have checked is clean - as is the underside of the vehicle, itself, is very clean. Granted, though, there could be a internal problem with a battery cable... but I'm a little leery of that explanation as I would "think" that the cranking speed would stay the same and not change.

I almost wonder if it shouldn't have two batteries like my Suburban does. Even though that's a bigger engine, it cranks faster. And there definitely isn't a "change" in cranking speed like the Merc. I guess the change in cranking speed is the thing that really throws me. But it's never NOT started, either. Could just be the nature of the beast.

SndsoftheSbrbs

I do not currently own a diesel. My buddy has a 2012 GL350 BlueTEC and has never had an issue, including during the past week. Honestly, if these CDIs and BlueTECs had such trouble starting in cold weather, they would not be as popular as they are, especially among these North Shore women.

Fishnut1

All true guys. I started this thread, just to see what, if any issues the CDI's had with cold weather. I am new to the MB world, at least to the modern ones, as have had a few of the 60's & 70's 4 & 5 cyl. diesels. No problems. However, when my older versions started cranking slowly, Hubards Automotive, in Eureka, Ca. pulled the starter, and showed me the carbon build up, in the grooves in the armature. They cleaned it, and 'Viola' it cranked like normal. If your starter has done a couple of starts, a day, for 6 or 7 years, that upwards of 5000 starts, and that might be an issue to consider.

Fishnut1

DennisG01

Interesting idea on the starter. I wonder if just spraying it with Brakleen or contact cleaner would make a difference? I guess the only way to find out is to try it.

I just looked on AllData and saw "1.9 hours" for starter removal. OK not too bad - 2 hours (roughly) for a pro, means maybe 3 or so for me. But then the destructions said "lift engine"... Crap. Not so easy to do at home!

I took a quick video of starting the engine this morning, but it was 50* outside. I'll get another one once it cold again and then post them together.

When your engines started cranking slowly... did they crank slowly over the entire cranking sequence? Or did it start slow for a few cranks, then pick up speed? Sort of like someone is "holding the flywheel" (causing a drag-type resistance) a bit, then let's go. Mine is doing the latter.

Fishnut1

Well, on my old '93 Ford diesel, (really still an International back then), it did turn over slowly at first, and then speed up a bit, until it finally caught. Cold weather, and cold starts only made it harder to start, and any temps close to Zero, required the block heater. The recent starter replacement, after 15 years, and 100K miles, fixed the problem entirely, and the armature cleaning, with brake-clean spray, on the old starter, along with new carbon brushes, brought it back to almost new performance.
My local MB mechanic, here in Granbury, Texas, has suggested that my 2007 Gl 320 CDI, may need the starter removed for cleaning in 20 or 30K miles. Diesel motor starters work harder than gasoline motor starters, due to higher compression, and more resistance to turning over. The more starts, the more wear.. Nes Pah? Nobody breaks the laws of physics, at least not on Earth. Personally, I would have a good independent mechanic pull the starter, service or replace it, and consider it money well spent. Go with the Pro, in this day and age. I try to avoid the Dealers if I can. Recently the local Dealership estimated repairs to my GL, at $7,600 and charged almost $200 to give me that estimate. My local MB mechanic, (factory trained with 20 years experience), did all the repairs for $3,600, with a 90 day warranty. He even purchased all the parts from the dealership. Moral of this story, find a good independent mechanic.

Fishnut1

DennisG01

Thanks, Fishnut. I do have a great Indy - they're a bit far away, but well worth the trip. So far the truck always starts and the "slow cranking" hasn't gotten any worse - it's pretty much stayed the same for the year and a half that I've owned it. But this is great information and I will definitely keep this in mind for future reference!

a2j

I don't have a place to install this one Canadian engines must have that extra little spot for these.