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Coil the extension cord around the steering wheel, as a reminder to unplug the heater...
Fishnut1
Tie the rear suspension diff with a steel cable (to obtain maximum damage do not tie to hitch). Tie the other end to her favorite kitchen appliance- preferably a built in one- like a 42" counterdepth Subzero. Provide 30 feet coiled loop of extra cable as a token of good will. Slap a sticker on steering wheel saying "remember what rides on this". Install few cameras. Wait. Profit (hint- YouTube hits).
Yes! Please take video! It'll give me a reason to give the 'ol laptop a cleaning... Since I would end up spitting coffee on it as I laughed from the video
EDIT: Hah! I just got the insinuation with the remark about not tying to the hitch!!!
A2J... I'm not sure if this helps, but the block heater on my Suburban was pretty much the same thing as linked above. The problem was that the cord end kept failing internally (wires breaking) because it was always getting tossed around and that I left the cord end dangling out from under the hood for easy access. I got tired of replacing the cord (can get them from NAPA) so I did this:
This is made by Marinco (typically used on boats). I cut the cord end off and direct wired it to this piece. A steel bumper, of course, made this easy. There might be a way to make this work on the Merc, though - if you don't want to go through a front of rear bumper, you can always mount it using a piece of angle iron (can get them in plastic or fiberglass or aluminum) attached under the bumper to something more solid.
Oh... A2J... I have yet to look at my engine to see if the plug is "by chance" pre-installed in the engine. But they usually install in place of one of the freeze plugs on the block. Have you looked to see if you're lucky enough to have at least that part already installed? Other than that, you can route the extension wire any way you want to.
Another option... I've never used them, but there are also block heaters that install/splice into the lower radiator hose. Probably an easier install.
Another way to go is with an oil pan heater. I actually have both installed in the Suburban and wired to the same bumper plug. Some say that an oil pan heater is actually more efficient than a block/coolant heater since you're heating the oil AND at the same time heat rises to heat the block. I haven't looked at the Merc with this in mind, but generally these are super easy to install. Take a look at Wolverine Heaters for some examples. IF I do something with block heating, I'll probably go with the oil pan method.
Thanks Go1, that is very good thinking, showing creativity, which is the true genius of the human species, not PhD's in Philosophy, or other intangibles. The oil pan heater makes more sense than other more complicated approaches to the issue of cold weather. Take a bow amigo.
Just ordered the Wolverine oil pan heater, after talking to one of the two owners. Way nice people, and lots of positive comments on the reviews.. Thanks again Go1, good turn on, and simple solution, to a Merc sin of omission.
Thank you, Fish! What size did you end up getting (to fit the pan properly)?
A2J - from those first couple of pictures, it looks like it's at the front of the engine (bottom). It looks like a radiator hose and some pulleys? In Marc's second picture (big one)... it kinda looks like it's next to the harmonic balancer? But I wonder if the brass heater/plug isn't there... would there just be a pipe plug in it's place, or is that entire cast assembly part of the "package"? I dunno. Is that option listed in your car's option list?
EDIT: I just saw Marc's picture (post #18 in that thread). I compared that to my engine and it's not the same. However, follow your oil dipstick tube down and you'll see a bunch of coolant hoses all coming together. This is just a guess since I don't have a heater, but I would venture a guess that if you have the heater, that's the area where it will be.
Thank you, Fish! What size did you end up getting (to fit the pan properly)?
A2J - from those first couple of pictures, it looks like it's at the front of the engine (bottom). It looks like a radiator hose and some pulleys? In Marc's second picture (big one)... it kinda looks like it's next to the harmonic balancer? But I wonder if the brass heater/plug isn't there... would there just be a pipe plug in it's place, or is that entire cast assembly part of the "package"? I dunno. Is that option listed in your car's option list?
EDIT: I just saw Marc's picture (post #18 in that thread). I compared that to my engine and it's not the same. However, follow your oil dipstick tube down and you'll see a bunch of coolant hoses all coming together. This is just a guess since I don't have a heater, but I would venture a guess that if you have the heater, that's the area where it will be.
That is where I was looking and came to a conclusion that I don't have a place to install this. I'm assuming Canadian vehicles do. Does anybody have a part number that I could order to make this work on my GL?
That is where I was looking and came to a conclusion that I don't have a place to install this. I'm assuming Canadian vehicles do. Does anybody have a part number that I could order to make this work on my GL?
I don't have any more information on this, myself. But if it was me I'd probably stop by my local dealer (or call a Canadian dealer?) and get some information on it. It might be that there is a different "hard part" that first gets installed on the engine side (or in place of something already there) to allow for the mounting of the heater.
However, anticipating how much time and money this will cost going that route... and since there's other, much simpler methods of doing the same thing... why not use one of the other methods? Just because Merc did it this way, doesn't mean it's the "best" way, nor the only way.
Correct, but I try not to modify my GL as much as possible and keep it OEM. Installing oil pan heater requires a little modification and my oil pan is also insulated form outside and not sure how would that work with the oil heater.
In the end, we all need to do what is comfortable for us - that ends up being the "best" thing. And I respect others wishes and intents. My only reason for mentioning that is I've done this kind of "modifying" for a few decades on cars, boats, etc, etc. Something like this is extremely straight forward and could even be considered better than OEM, depending on whom you're talking to, of course. So I'm just saying this because I've been there and done this before (modifying, in general) and it's really not all that bad. It definitely will be AT LEAST as reliable as the OEM setup... along with easier to replace if it does go bad in the future.
Here's another way to think of it... and really, I'm not trying to actually "convince" you of anything... just throwing out thoughts and ideas that have gone through my head in the past: Let's say you sell the truck next year. Would a buyer looking at a $20-some K vehicle really care if it was the fancy OEM setup, or would they just be happy if it had the heater. And then even happier if they found out it was a more efficient setup?
I think the pan insulation (they all have this... or at least originally did) would actually help the process... like a blanket. BUT, that would be a great question for the heater manufacturer - just to be sure. HOWEVER... Aside from the heater issue, I've actually wondered if this insulation is a good idea. I mean, wouldn't this insulation actually help to keep moisture in? Which would in turn possibly lead to causing rust/corrosion on the pan? I've thought about taking mine off... especially since I'm in an area where they use salt on the roads in the winter.
The heaters that simply splice into the coolant hose are a good option, too. The only thing I would change is sometimes these come with cheap clamps. I would use better clamps - either Oetiker or at least AWAB band clamps. And if the nipple was long enough, I'd double clamp it (with gears reversed from each other). Double clamping it is overkill, but I work int he marine business and you learn very quickly to "overkill" things since you can't just pull over to the side of the road if you have a problem. And if that "problem" is below the waterline.........
But again - we all need to do what is best for us and you won't offend me if you just say "thanks, but I feel better going the OEM way". Heck, you won't even offend me if you don't say "thanks"!
After talking to the owner of the Wolverine company, I feel that these area quality item, built in the USA, in Yakima, Wa. and used on literally thousands of diesel vehicles, and not just cars & Suv's, but big rigs. The owner used to have a fleet of trucks, with Cat diesels, and he quipped all with his heaters. Many went 1Million miles, were rebuilt, with the same pan & heater, and were on the road aga75in. Good enough for me. I chose the Suv size, for less than $80.00, and it shipped yesterday.. Depending upon my time availability, I will install it myself, if I run short of time, my local MB mechanic said he could do it for $75... good by me...
Fishnut1
again, thanks for the turn on... photos after install...
After talking to the owner of the Wolverine company, I feel that these area quality item, built in the USA, in Yakima, Wa. and used on literally thousands of diesel vehicles, and not just cars & Suv's, but big rigs. The owner used to have a fleet of trucks, with Cat diesels, and he quipped all with his heaters. Many went 1Million miles, were rebuilt, with the same pan & heater, and were on the road aga75in. Good enough for me. I chose the Suv size, for less than $80.00, and it shipped yesterday.. Depending upon my time availability, I will install it myself, if I run short of time, my local MB mechanic said he could do it for $75... good by me...
Fishnut1
again, thanks for the turn on... photos after install...
Cool! Yeah, they're a pretty good company. I can't tell you the when I bought my first one, but it was quite some time ago! Did they have any thoughts about leaving/removing the oil pan blanket?
He did not mention the oil pan blanket, and I did not know that I had one?? See how little I know about this GL? Of course, thanks for the heads up on that, and I will give him a call and ask about it. I am pretty sure that none of his truck experience extends to current MB GL's with CDI..
If you haven't had the truck since new, it's also possible a previous owner has removed it. It's not something you would readily see from the topside, either - you'd have to be underneath. It's OK if he doesn't have experience with this particular engine - in this case, and engine is an engine is an engine and it makes no difference who made it or whether the engine is a 2017 model or a 1972 model. The only variable is the blanket and whether that would be an issue with the heater and getting too hot - However I would "think" the only thing the blanket would do is make it MORE efficient.
Logical GO1, and I am not the original owner of this truck/SUV.. I found it on Evilbay, in Dallas, and after seeing/driving it, we made a deal. It is a 2007, and I doubt seriously, that the investment banker, (the previous owner), at 77 years old, ever crawled under this GL. or removed anything. , So I will crawl under today, as the pan heater arrived in yesterday's mail. Were I in Mexico, where all my tools & shop are, I would not hesitate to put it on myself, but here, in Texas, I have only a minimum of tools, no floor jack, no jack stands, and I hesitate to work under any vehicle without serious support. I can raise it up to 12" of ground clearance, and easily fit under to check it out. However, I will probably forgo the pleasure of cleaning the pan and attaching the Wolverine.. my mechanic can easily do it on Tu..
Sometimes it's just plain easier to give a guy some dinero! ...See what I did there with the $$ That's about the extent of my joke telling capabilities!
Vincent, Fishnut can obviously show you pictures specific to our GL's, but to give you an idea this is my '98 Suburban. Installation is a snap - basically, just sand the paint away, stick the pan heater on, apply the goo around the perimeter and route the cord where you want it. I added a braided, nylon sleeve and a little extra goo to keep the cord up and out of the way - also to help keep the cord from flexing where it enters the pad since that could weaken things (flexing over and over and over) in time. I used zip ties and pieces of rubber hose (2"-ish sections, split down the side) to secure and protect the cord on it's way to the outlet in my bumper. Wolverine also has instructions on their website (or at least they used to) if you wanted to read some more specific directions.
Funny... I had always meant to come back and use a razor blade to trim away some of the high spots of the goo to make it a little smoother looking. Ah well...
12-28-2016, 10:11 AM
