tbu1n

The GLK user manual tells you that the low beam headlight bulb is replaceable by the owner and yet many people on this forum say its a job for the dealer. Changing the driver side (USA) bulb is said to be the most difficult.

Having spent 2 hours on this 'simple' task, my wife told me to share with the world just how the darn springh/clip goes on. So here I am.
Getting to the bulb is easy. Follow the manual for this. From this point on you are working blind - assuming your hands are not too big to even make a start.

When I got the part where the wires are to be removed I could easily get hold of the clip but my first thought was, do I pull really hard or is there a retainer that needs to be manipulated. The answer is - pull hard.

I am not really sure what sequence got the spring off the bulb. I think I pushed down and it released. I can tell you that down or up, it won't take long to get the desired result - clip/spring off, old bulb out - now the fun starts.

The manual's picture of the bulb and clip/spring assembly is about as much use as a chocolate teapot. Trying to see into the headlight assembly's hole is all but impossible. So with no idea about what you need to do you will spend hours trying to feel your way. I did.

Eventually I found a picture on this forum that showed (upside down) the back of the bulb with the spring/clip hanging in the wrong place. I have used this to illustrate the correct arrangement. See attached photo.

A-B shows a slot that each open end of the spring/clip (1) should be inserted into. C shows the guide and slot that the spring/clip goes into.

The sequence that worked for me was...
1. Put bulb in place and make sure it is seated correctly. The tab goes down. (If I had been able to find some superglue I would have put a tiny, tiny dot on the bulb case because it does not want to stay seated when you take your hand of it. Maybe a tiny piece of double sided tape would be safer!). The point is; be aware that bulb may come unseated.

2. Working blind (you have no choice) insert clip/spring ends (1) into A-B slots on each side on the bulb holder. You should be able to get the spring to stay in place perpedicular to its final position. In other words, sticking out at you.

3. Remove your hand from the hole carefully and then use a mirror of manipulate your head to look and make sure the clip/spring is in the A-B slot. I was initally trying to make the clip/spring was closer to B. I think this was a mistake. I found that squashing the ends (1) towards each other made the clip/spring seat at A better.

4. If the clip spring is seated as described, carefully use your hand to lift and rotate the spring/clip (keeping some upward force) until the clip/spring hits the retaining notches (C) at about position 2.

5. Push the clip home. You may find that you will need to push the clip/spring down so the ends (1) are as-shown in my illustration. I think this ensures that the spring is doing its job. If the ends (1) are closer to B the bulb may fall out.

6. Reassembly after this is very easy.

Finally realizing what needed to be done was a big help to me. I'd say it took 3 or 4 attempts to make it the clip/spring and bulb seat properly. One of the biggest problems is keeping the bulb seated as you manipulate the clip.

A favor. Please don't lambast me about super glue. There is no need to debate it. I was so frustrated I would have done it had it beed to-hand. A clever way of keeping the bulb seated can be your own problem to solve.

Good luck. I hope you can accomplish this 'simple task' without scratched and swollen hands.

NCBob

I had fun this weekend, too. Replaced the halogens with HIDs purchased from Philips. Also bought the additional harness with relays and resistors that hook up to the battery. Wiring that was the easy part. The bit*h was placing the bulb correctly, holding it in place while pushing down on the spring tab, and then stuffing the additional wiring into the light compartment and trying to close it up with the end-cap. Gaining access was no picnic either. Scarred up hands prove that. The GLK is done. Now comes the wife's C300. Hopefully it will be easier this time. Oh yeah, do not drop a screw or piece from the lights. They go into a black hole in the engine compartment never to be found again.

pgeller

The trick is to NOT try and unhook the wire bail. Just slide it up (about 1/4") to release the bulb. Then while holding the new bulb in place (tab down), slide the bail back down. A tiny bit of oil helps make the bail slide smoothly.

If you knock on of the bails off, take a Darvon before trying to reinstall it.

pg
DD

rmfnla

It still amazes me that this is so difficult!

I cannot help but remember my 1979 240D, easily the best-designed car for maintenance & repairs I have ever seen.

What the hell happened..?

grane

Robots.

I hope replacing the halogen bulbs in the 13s is easier.

rmfnla

Robots do assembly.

This is a design issue.

It's bad enough that all the electronics limit how much DIY is possible, but they have to make it almost impossible to change a light bulb?!

TANJ!

GeeLK

I had to remove the headlight unit (and bumber) to change low beam bulb. There was just not enough room for my hands. Poor design from Mercedes.

mbzusr

Dude thanks!

I used this method and spent 40 minutes for both.... after getting a telescopic spot mirror. This must be the actual human supported way as there are what appear to be guides for the two spring clip ends to go up and down. I didn't need any oil, just had to try a few times to ensure the bulb was flat so that both sides are securely under the wire as it slides down and not above it.

paulglk

Ok.. i'm super frustrated with the whole lowbeam headlight issue with the GLK. I did do my passengers side replacement in April this year. Sure to heck, the drivers side is now out. My vehicle has 31,000 kms and this sucks.

Anyway, i figured that since i did the passengers side myself (used the telescopic mirror trick) and was able to work the spring properly, i figure i'm smart enough to replace the bulb in the drivers side now. Well, no luck, the spot is just too cramped and i got as far as getting the bulb out (by feel), but the spring came off. Thank the Lord the spring didnt fall into the headlight assembly.

Now i have to try and put the new bulb in and then the spring back into place. I think i may have to tie some fishing line to the spring, just incase i drop it into the headlight assembly. Is it true you cant buy the spring by it self ?

Any tips from someone who's done the drivers side recently on putting the spring back into place?

I'm so tempted to just take the whole front drivers side wheel liner out.

NCBob

There is a plastic wing nut on top of the front plastic panels. Unscrew that and move the washer bottle to the left as you are facing it. I also removed two top panels and temproarily relocated the washer line and was able to gain more access to the light assy. But be prepared to work by feel only. There is a post on this site that has some pretty good pics of the light assy as you are looking at it from the rear. Very helpful guide for feeling your way around.

pjs860ct

Just did this today after work... took me an hour as the clip came off when I took the bulb out... after I figured out how it works it was cake ...

slk55er

Likewise here. And the bulb fell to the bottom of the cavity. Used a magnetic retriever to recover both and gave up on trying to install the clip. Thankfully, my local independent shop knew what to do (nearest dealer 110 miles away in Las Vegas.) With that experience and the helpful info found on this thread, I hope to be able to replace the bulb myself next time. Thanks much.

pjs860ct

Had to use a magnet as well when the bulb n or clip fell inside... ill be replacing both low beams again soon with new bulbs ( used an old set I had from my VW that was in the garage)

So quick summary... remove the plastic trims around the headlight and move the hose out the way... take the headlight cap off... unplug headlight plug... carefully slide the clip up around 1/2 inch or less... that will free up the H7 bulb... put the new bulb in, make sure its flat and carefully more the clip down... double check that the clip is on top of the bulb... put the plug back on.. turn on the headlight (making sure it works) install everything back... done...

packardbell

wondering how did you accomplish the hid installation?
did you get any bulb out light in your dash?

NCBob

No error messages. No flickering. With the Philips system and the additional harness, I had no issues. Make sure you keep the main 25amp fuse out in the open and away from engine heat. It'll blow with additional heat. It's all plug and play. You cannot wire it wrong.

packardbell

where did you get the kit? need more lumens on the road.
also you hid your fog lights?
got a link on how you installed it?
thanks

NCBob

Try this link: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...tion-pics.html

Not sure what your car is, but the GLK and C-300 are identical installations. I did both models.
Philipsxenon.com is where you can buy the HIDs. Their cust serv is good.

No fog lights. I have the LEDs.

packardbell

thanks it is GLK350

navreet

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ch...eplacement.pdf

plingane

I have never posted to a blog before, but this task is such a nuisance that I thought I would add a couple clarifying tips to what was said by tbu1n and pgeller as their posts were invaluable. My focus will be on replacing the driver’s side low beam.
1. My arms and wrists are thin so I could do it without moving the washer hose. If you are stocky try finding a teenager.
2. When you remove or reinstall the bulb keep the connector/wires connected until the bulb is completely out. This gives you a nice handle to hold the bulb in place and you can’t drop the bulb into the assembly as I did once.
3. To remove the bulb you should follow pgeller’s advice and just slide the bail up vertically. Study the pictures provided by tbu1n; I refer to his reference designators here. Lifting section 2 will spread the ends of the bail (section 1) apart as they move from position A to position B. This will release the bulb. Since you are doing this blind and can fit only one finger under the top of the bail at a time, I found it easiest to lift one side of the bail first (section 2) and then the other side. The bail only lifts maybe ¼ inch and sort of snaps into its new position.
4. Use of an inspection mirror is very helpful, but I was also able to fit my iPhone down in to take a picture which is really useful to see the lay of the land if things don’t feel right.
5. When reinstalling the bulb you will need to rotate it a little and feel for the point where the tab is locked in the down position. This requires a little patience.
6. When I first pulled the bulb out (before I found this post) I just sort of yanked and one end of the lower section 1 of the bail pulled out and was free. To get this back in (without a bulb in place at this point) I first set the bail to the “down position” so the other section 1 end slides into position A. Then the goal is to get the free end of the bail into the other position A. It will not go into the A-B slot directly. This can be achieved by moving the free end down past position A, then forward toward the front of the car, then up slightly and back until it is hooked under position A. The metal at position A has a tang that is bent forward, and you have to go around (below it) to the back side of that tang to have it captured.

If the bail has come out and is completely free in your hand, I would think it easiest (since you are working with only a finger or two) to first capture it at position C, then slide it down, and then capture one end of section 1 under position A, and then capture the other section 1 under position A as described above.
7. You will want to use a latex glove to keep finger oils off the glass of the bulb which will cause premature failure.
8. I found it helpful to practice installing the bulb by re-installing the burned out one. Then it is easier with the real replacement.

Once I figured out how to replace the drivers side, it took only about 5 minutes to do the passenger side. Good luck!

dcjwlee

Guys, the 2013 looks like it did away with the spring clip. The manual simply states to lift the bulb upwards, disconnect the connector, and replace the bulb. I have tried pulling upwards on various parts of the bulb and I cannot get it for the life of me. There does not appear to be any spring clip assembly like in most other headlights I have replaced.

It is absolutely freezing outside and I will give it a few more tries tonight but LMK if any of you guys have replaced the low beams in your facelifted GLK.

Picked up a set of 65W Osram "rallye" bulbs. Will post pics once I successfully install them.

plingane

...makes it much easier to see what is going on.

dcjwlee

Here you go. Pictures are right side up.





It looks like it is meant to be pushed upwards towards the side where the cutout is on the lamp base. This should relieve enough tension for the bulb to pulled out from the bottom two retaining "holders".

But I am getting nowhere and pretty sure I will crack the headlight housing if I pull any harder. Not really possible to get a pair of pliers lined up to grip one of the male connectors and give it a good yank.


Instructions from the manual state open cover, pull the bulb upwards at the bulb holder, disconnect the bulb, pull out the bulb.

plingane

The only thing I can think of is to put a screwdriver at the bottom of the bulb flange, right at the "W" of "55W", and wedge it up against that fixed post there, perhaps clearing the two bottom clips first instead of trying to clear the top one.

dcjwlee

Honestly, I think I would prefer the spring clip. I used a scissor and picked at the bulb by the bottom left "clip" and it popped up past the retaining clip on that end. From there, I followed the "pull upwards" instructions in the manual and the thing made a "click" noise and popped right out.

Honestly, I had been plucking at the bottom of it with my nail and broke a few. I pulled and tugged on that lamp base trying to get the bulb out and even tried it with the connector on.

I felt like I was going to either break the entire bulb holder off it's base or smash the connector into pieces in my hand when I was trying to get this bulb out.

I would recommend using a flat head and gently prying at the bulb until you can get at least one contact loose. There is only one way you can really approach it which is from the 'U' before 'Germany'.