vibration while accelerating
02-22-2015, 10:35 PM
#1
vibration while accelerating
Hi everyone,
Anyone else have this problem?
While accelerating under moderate load (such as going uphill at 70 mph or accelerating from a stoplight from 0 to 45) the car shudders and vibrates. It feels almost exactly like hitting the rumble strip on the side of the highway. Cruises fine with no vibration. Also under light or very heavy acceleration , there is no vibration.
It's my wife's car, so I don't drive it every day. I first noticed some vibration about a year ago, but it was very minor so I discounted it as insignificant. Now it's very pronounced and annoying, not to mention unnerving.
2011 GLK 4matic with about 48,000 miles.
What should I check first?: CV joints, front and rear differentials, rear shaft, hangar bearing, front shaft?
or....
Should I start a savings fund for a new transmission?
Anyone else have this problem?
While accelerating under moderate load (such as going uphill at 70 mph or accelerating from a stoplight from 0 to 45) the car shudders and vibrates. It feels almost exactly like hitting the rumble strip on the side of the highway. Cruises fine with no vibration. Also under light or very heavy acceleration , there is no vibration.
It's my wife's car, so I don't drive it every day. I first noticed some vibration about a year ago, but it was very minor so I discounted it as insignificant. Now it's very pronounced and annoying, not to mention unnerving.
2011 GLK 4matic with about 48,000 miles.
What should I check first?: CV joints, front and rear differentials, rear shaft, hangar bearing, front shaft?
or....
Should I start a savings fund for a new transmission?
The following users liked this post:
Mainewiggs11 (10-25-2022)
05-03-2015, 05:43 PM
#3
Follow up to my original post:
Took the GLK to the dealer. Even though the three year warranty had expired MB covered the cost of the part. My total cost including diagnosis was under $600 dollars.
The faulty part was a "planet carrier" according to the dealership. They were able to remove it from the transmission and replace it with a new part.
One more note on the diagnosis: before the repair the vehicle vibrated/shook while making tight turns at low speed, such as when parking. I had thought this was normal for a 4matic, but the repair completely eliminated that issue. The vibration while shifting started slowly a year before becoming very pronounced.
IMO:
1. check for transmission vibration very carefully before buying a GLK
2. get the extended warranty
3. do not tow with this vehicle
Best wishes to you all
Took the GLK to the dealer. Even though the three year warranty had expired MB covered the cost of the part. My total cost including diagnosis was under $600 dollars.
The faulty part was a "planet carrier" according to the dealership. They were able to remove it from the transmission and replace it with a new part.
One more note on the diagnosis: before the repair the vehicle vibrated/shook while making tight turns at low speed, such as when parking. I had thought this was normal for a 4matic, but the repair completely eliminated that issue. The vibration while shifting started slowly a year before becoming very pronounced.
IMO:
1. check for transmission vibration very carefully before buying a GLK
2. get the extended warranty
3. do not tow with this vehicle
Best wishes to you all
11-14-2016, 03:12 PM
#4
I am having similar problem. Just got back from a trip to Toronto and back. About 165 miles/266km each way. Smooth highway driving.
What happens, is that if we are driving at say 60mph/100km/hr and then accelerate to say 110km/hr, there is a shudder. Not as noticeable if driving at say 80km/hr. This shudder is very re-produceable.
I will be taking car in to dealer, but just wondered how many others have noticed the same thing. And if repaired, was it the same problem as Brad reported?
What happens, is that if we are driving at say 60mph/100km/hr and then accelerate to say 110km/hr, there is a shudder. Not as noticeable if driving at say 80km/hr. This shudder is very re-produceable.
I will be taking car in to dealer, but just wondered how many others have noticed the same thing. And if repaired, was it the same problem as Brad reported?
11-15-2016, 04:36 PM
#5
Had the same problem this summer. They replaced a solenoid that locks up the transmission for better fuel economy. On the plus side warranty covered it and got the fluid changed (required once only during the life of the vehicle) for free.
The following users liked this post:
107123210 (11-15-2016)
11-16-2016, 03:36 AM
#6
11-16-2016, 01:40 PM
#7
Member
Trending Topics
11-17-2016, 02:41 AM
#8
I thought that MB USA stopped with this nonsense a while ago and started recommending regular changes of the oil. Or was the single fluid change just a means to postpone the transmission failure till warranty runs out?
11-17-2016, 07:18 AM
#9
FIrst I hear that you should change the transmission/transfer case fluid more than the manufacturer recommends. Any examples to support the case for more frequent service than MB recommends?
11-17-2016, 07:47 AM
#10
Plenty of examples around this very forum. Search around and you'll find countless threads on the topic. Plenty of ruined transmissions around the world. There are also plenty of million-mile 722.6 that have enjoyed regular service. The early 722.9 has its (well documented) issues, but is pretty robust too.
Of course if you strongly believe in what MB says, you may not be persuaded. It's up to you to decide how you maintain your car. The general consensus is that the "filled for life" policy and its successor - the "one change" - are some of the worst examples of cost-cutting by MB and a regular service interval should be followed instead in order to get the most of this fantastic transmissions.
Of course if you strongly believe in what MB says, you may not be persuaded. It's up to you to decide how you maintain your car. The general consensus is that the "filled for life" policy and its successor - the "one change" - are some of the worst examples of cost-cutting by MB and a regular service interval should be followed instead in order to get the most of this fantastic transmissions.
11-17-2016, 06:01 PM
#11
The service manager told me that they tested car and that solenoid on torque converter was working. But invoice doesn't say that.
I have driven this car every km it has been driven. Just 29k km (18k mi) in 3 years. Almost all highway driving between our home in Canada and South Carolina plus occasional trip to Toronto. Never have hit a pothole. Tires and rims appear as new with very low wear and no scuffs.
They suggested I buy one new rim and one new tire for $1000+ to see if that is the problem. I am not doing that!
I may take the car in to a specialist tire company that has been here for 50+ years and have them double check it.
Other than that, not sure what to do. Maybe try another dealer?
11-19-2016, 03:21 PM
#12
Find an indy tire shop with a hunter road force balance machine
That will rule out a bent rim or any other tire problems
That will rule out a bent rim or any other tire problems
The following users liked this post:
Nice Ride (11-26-2016)
11-19-2016, 09:03 PM
#13
Find an indy tire shop with a hunter road force balance machine
That will rule out a bent rim or any other tire problems
That will rule out a bent rim or any other tire problems
11-19-2016, 11:27 PM
#14
Dealer seems to know something about this, but I don't think they did a proper road test. Was there anything on the invoice such as a job number or other info about their diagnostics that I might be able to refer my dealer to?
11-20-2016, 03:51 PM
#15
Job number MB Halifax, NS might be 92005 (nothing on the invoice says job#)
Prt #220-277-09-98
Hope this helps. My symptoms were exactly like yours - shudder like going over a rumble strip when starting up a slight incline at highway speed/ shudder when accelerating to pass, both for a few seconds per incident. Maybe go with the tech for the road test next time.
11-20-2016, 08:12 PM
#16
Invoice says "replaced clutch lockup solenoid. Adapted.
Job number MB Halifax, NS might be 92005 (nothing on the invoice says job#)
Prt #220-277-09-98
Hope this helps. My symptoms were exactly like yours - shudder like going over a rumble strip when starting up a slight incline at highway speed/ shudder when accelerating to pass, both for a few seconds per incident. Maybe go with the tech for the road test next time.
Job number MB Halifax, NS might be 92005 (nothing on the invoice says job#)
Prt #220-277-09-98
Hope this helps. My symptoms were exactly like yours - shudder like going over a rumble strip when starting up a slight incline at highway speed/ shudder when accelerating to pass, both for a few seconds per incident. Maybe go with the tech for the road test next time.
11-25-2016, 09:18 AM
#18
If tires or wheels were the problem the vibration should occur all the time, not just when accelerating. Do you have winter tires on separate rims or any friends you could swap a wheel with? Any other dealers around?
11-25-2016, 11:35 PM
#19
I took wheel they said was bad off. First measured it every which way. Could not find any out of round in rim or tire. Took it to shop with Hunter Road Force balancer - they found it needed balancing, but saw no run-out. I still need to take car on highway and see if the balancing made any difference. (Did that and shudder still there)
It's going back to dealer next week and we will road test again. I sent them your note.
Last edited by 107123210; 11-27-2016 at 06:58 PM.
11-28-2016, 11:09 AM
#20
I have no spare rims, but dealer could have tried that. They likely have some used cars they could have borrowed from.
I took wheel they said was bad off. First measured it every which way. Could not find any out of round in rim or tire. Took it to shop with Hunter Road Force balancer - they found it needed balancing, but saw no run-out. I still need to take car on highway and see if the balancing made any difference. (Did that and shudder still there)
It's going back to dealer next week and we will road test again. I sent them your note.
I took wheel they said was bad off. First measured it every which way. Could not find any out of round in rim or tire. Took it to shop with Hunter Road Force balancer - they found it needed balancing, but saw no run-out. I still need to take car on highway and see if the balancing made any difference. (Did that and shudder still there)
It's going back to dealer next week and we will road test again. I sent them your note.
11-28-2016, 09:26 PM
#21
We also only noticed the vibration on a recent longer trip.
12-01-2016, 05:30 PM
#22
So car was checked out again today. By driving on highway (with me) , the car shuddered/vibrated as described. They said they later took it out again with instruments that showed how torque clutch locked or not. Again confirmed problem.
They plan on changing the torque converter. I suggested problem might be the control solenoid, but they seem to want to do the expensive repair first and if that doesn't work, then the solenoid (which is a small job). This based on previous experience that torque converter is usually the problem.
Waiting for parts now.
They plan on changing the torque converter. I suggested problem might be the control solenoid, but they seem to want to do the expensive repair first and if that doesn't work, then the solenoid (which is a small job). This based on previous experience that torque converter is usually the problem.
Waiting for parts now.
12-02-2016, 04:12 PM
#23
Senior Member
So car was checked out again today. By driving on highway (with me) , the car shuddered/vibrated as described. They said they later took it out again with instruments that showed how torque clutch locked or not. Again confirmed problem.
They plan on changing the torque converter. I suggested problem might be the control solenoid, but they seem to want to do the expensive repair first and if that doesn't work, then the solenoid (which is a small job). This based on previous experience that torque converter is usually the problem.
Waiting for parts now.
They plan on changing the torque converter. I suggested problem might be the control solenoid, but they seem to want to do the expensive repair first and if that doesn't work, then the solenoid (which is a small job). This based on previous experience that torque converter is usually the problem.
Waiting for parts now.
Hope it's all fixed this time.
12-03-2016, 11:23 AM
#24
I am disappointed that something like this would occur after under 30k km (18.3k miles) Unfortunate the dealer will have to start messing with the transmission on what is an almost new car. I just hope they get everything back the way it should be. We will soon be leaving in GLK on a long trip.
