omid

Want to hear some thoughts on this. I have two options here and may be moving within the next month.

The total drive is 1600 miles and I have a 2014 GLK

Option 1
Uhaul with Vehicle transport attached(GLK on Transport rack)
Cost:1300-1400
Benefits: NO miles on car, no brake or transmission wear

Option 2
Get an execuhitch installed and a 5x10 or 6x12 trailer
Cost: 1300 (includes cost of cargo trailer)
Benefits: Have hidden hitch installed if I ever need to use a trailer again, Could also use a bike rack later. Later moves would much cheaper if I opted to keep vehicle


How much wear and tear are we expecting on a drive this long with about 3500LB load pulled behind?

What option would you pick and why?

omid

16k miles are on it now.

Execuhitch would be installed at a local shop 400 for labor and around 700 for the hitch package

fabbrisd1

You will be happier packing the right Uhaul truck - plus frankly a GLK pulling 3500 lbs is slow mo..

Bob338

"Slow" isn't an issue and neither is 'fast'. Both will be a bit slower than without hauling something. Those kind of miles are meaningless in the life of the car and engine. The only real pull is the starts from any stops you have to make. Inertia takes care of highway at speed.

Without any question I would pull with the GLK. I had the some concerns, evaluated it and rented a UHaul for my move just 3 months ago, and I would follow the same course in a heartbeat. Pull with the GLK. You won't even know that trailer is behind you!

chrissk

No need to think. Definitely install a hitch and tow the trailer if it costs same! This is a great opportunity for you to get a hitch. There will be a lot of times you wish you had one. Don't miss it.

During 4 months ownership of my new GLK w/factory hitch, I have already towed 4 U-haul trailers. 1 utility trailer, 2 cargo trailers and 1 sport trailer. Bike rack is used almost every week. Installing my old bike rack using ropes/hooks on my previous ML without hitch scratched everywhere. Having a hitch will make your life a lot easier and fun. For moving bulky items, camping or biking,.. hitch is very useful. You don't need to rent a truck. U-Haul trailer are available starting just $19.99 and no need to worry about the mileages or filling up the gas tank when you return.

FYI, factory installed hitch comes with 1.25" receiver but if you're installing aftermarket one, make sure you get 2" as it is the standard size, you get more options for towing parts. I'll be ordering a Snowsport snow plow for this winter but it fits only 2" so I need to use an adapter.

Good luck.

LesF

depends on how much weight your going to move as well. I would opt to add a 2" hitch. A one time cost with a lifetime of use.

omid

Everyone! thank you for all your inputs. Will definitely get a hitch installed now

mjhawkins2346

NO! The 2 inch one is a Class III or Class IV hitch receiver. The GLK is only designed for a Class II hitch with a maximum of 3500 lbs. I think most hitch shops would probably refuse to put the 2 inch on your car without you signing a waiver - if they agree to do it at all.
There are a lot of threads discussing the hitch installation on the GLK. Make sure the shop is up to speed on this car because it can get tricky.
I tow a 1500 lb max weight trailer so I feel nothing. The yaw control works to keep everything straight and "sees" the trailer back there. It's a good system.

chrissk

As long as it is set up right using the hitch from the reputable manufacturers, GLK should handle higher towing limit than factory installed class II.

slmskrs

It looks like you have a 350 vs a 250 diesel. I have a '13 GLK250 and weekly pull a 3500# boat/trailer. I previously had a Ford Expedition with a 6500# tow capacity, and my glk250 tows circles around the Expedition; the diesel has more torque than the V8 Expedition (not to mention more than 2.5x the fuel economy). I normally only tow short distances to our slalom course water ski pond (25 miles r/t), but I recently took it on a 180 mile r/t drive with two large hills that I was a little concerned about. Absolutely no problem. One hill I was in 6th at 60mph, and the other one (much longer) it actually stayed in 7th at 60 (speed limit in California with trailer is 55).

I can't speak to the v6 350, but I'd absolutely tow 1600 miles with my 4-banger diesel 250. You do get the benefit of a hitch for bike racks, etc.. I understand the concern about putting a 2" on a vehicle rated to tow 3500#. However, if you are keeping the car, go with what you need. I had a custom 2" fabricated/installed because my bike rack is 2" and 2" is more stable for a bike rack (and my receiver for the boat is also 2"). I'll never tow anything heavier, so no concerns. And if I ever sell it, I'll be clear to the buyer that the rating is 3500#. But since it's diesel, it will run forever!

BTW, I got a trailer light converter that has back up (I have both back up lights on the trailer along with an electric solenoid trailer brake lock out for backing up). I think I got it from eTrailer, and it was easy to connect up (I did it).

I've had numerous tow vehicles; my GLK250 is hands down the best I've every had for 3500# towing.

ecohen2

@slmskrs is absolutely right. The GLK 350 has a much lower tow capacity than the GLK 250. The only thing I would add is if you are going through hilly areas you want to make sure the trailer has good brakes. Neither the GLK 250 or 350 have strong enough brakes in my opinion..

slmskrs

Agree with @ecohen2 on brakes. When you have a 3500# trailer pushing a little over 4000# vehicle, you need good trailer brakes. I had to do an emergency stop on a freeway and the GLK's ABS kicked in trying to stop the car/boat. That said, I think the brakes in the GLK are better than my old Expedition; I couldn't get ABS to kick in on on them unless the road was slippery. Always put a lot of room in front of you when pulling a trailer regardless of the tow vehicle. Granted, whenever you put sufficient space in front of you for safe stops, it's apparently an invitation for other drives to pull in and use up the space...

BTW, while I don't know about the GLK350 MPG, on my 180 mile round trip towing my 3500# boat (up and over a 1,000ft mountain each way) at 60mph, I got an average of 25mpg! Granted, the boat doesn't have as much wind resistance as a box trailer. Plus, when not towing, I get around 40mpg if I don't go over 70mph (35mpg on I5 between SF bay area and SoCal at 85mph). I can get 40mpg and can also pull a 3500# trailer! Show me another vehicle that can do that! I couldn't get 10mpg when pulling the boat behind the expedition!

Mmr1

The Glk is not a ford or Chevy pickup , it’s not designed to tow . Even so the Glk transfer case and trans are not tough. I just spent 600 $. To replace a stupid differential . The dealer wanted 1500.00 for the front differential and dive shaft . . Put the wear on the rental

ramo80

I went to Uhaul a few weeks ago and asked for a 3500lbs capacity trailer and they told me they can't rent it to me. They said 1.25in hitch can't handle it. They said my hitch is a glorified bike rack. I was so mad but they didn't care. They said it doesn't matter what i say they won't rent me a trailer. Here is the funny part. I have rented said trailer in the past from other locations. It was only this one location that didn't want to. I wonder if there is documented proof from the dealer where i can show them that the GLK is capable to tow with factory hitch.

slmskrs

Don't disagree the GLK is not towing-specific vehicle, but that said, my Expedition manual (rated at 6,500# towing) said that its primary purpose is transportation of people and not towing (and it's based on a Ford F150). I suspect every brand says something similar to limit liability.