2015 GLK paint contamination and windshield pitting
11-10-2015, 07:11 PM
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2015 GLK paint contamination and windshield pitting
Hi. First Mercedes. I've been hanging around reading, but now I have a reason to post.
I have a 2015 White GLK. Have had it for about a month. I hand washed it a few times and 2 weeks ago decided to seal and wax. Well, there was a lot of contamination and, specifically, iron embedded in the white paint. I had to use a product called IronX, and then clay on the paint. It's almost as if the vehicle was transported and stored without any protection. So, a week later, I notice that the super clean windshield looks pitted and beat up when driving in bright sunlight. Then I notice that all the glass seems "contaminated". When you wet the glass and wipe it, as its drying, you can see what I can only describe as oily residue. Like when you can see oil in water. It's what I would expect from an older, dirty car. I scraped the windshield, clayed it and used over the counter glass wax (hand applied). It's better, but far from what I expect from a new car. After some research, it looks to me that the glass needs to be polished with a power tool.
My dealer has the car right now to do some other work and I told them about the windshield. I got a call back saying that the glass guy cleaned the windshield... that it was just dirt. Yeah.... The glass in my 3 yr old work truck looks about the same as this.
I talked to a few other people to escalate things and was assured that no matter what, there will be a resolution.
So, I guess I'd like to know if this seems like what a new windshield should be like. How about the paint? Am I expecting too much?
BTW, no pics right now...
I have a 2015 White GLK. Have had it for about a month. I hand washed it a few times and 2 weeks ago decided to seal and wax. Well, there was a lot of contamination and, specifically, iron embedded in the white paint. I had to use a product called IronX, and then clay on the paint. It's almost as if the vehicle was transported and stored without any protection. So, a week later, I notice that the super clean windshield looks pitted and beat up when driving in bright sunlight. Then I notice that all the glass seems "contaminated". When you wet the glass and wipe it, as its drying, you can see what I can only describe as oily residue. Like when you can see oil in water. It's what I would expect from an older, dirty car. I scraped the windshield, clayed it and used over the counter glass wax (hand applied). It's better, but far from what I expect from a new car. After some research, it looks to me that the glass needs to be polished with a power tool.
My dealer has the car right now to do some other work and I told them about the windshield. I got a call back saying that the glass guy cleaned the windshield... that it was just dirt. Yeah.... The glass in my 3 yr old work truck looks about the same as this.
I talked to a few other people to escalate things and was assured that no matter what, there will be a resolution.
So, I guess I'd like to know if this seems like what a new windshield should be like. How about the paint? Am I expecting too much?
BTW, no pics right now...
11-10-2015, 10:53 PM
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Have absolutely no way to advise you without knowing where you are located... frankly that's one key element..
Clay for "ceramic" clearcoat... sortoff like scrubbing alligator belly to make it smooth..
Clay for "ceramic" clearcoat... sortoff like scrubbing alligator belly to make it smooth..
11-11-2015, 07:24 AM
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11-11-2015, 09:53 AM
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350 GLK, C280
Don't know where you are but the film on the windows is most likely oil off the roads. We have found that New Jersey is probably the worst for this. Driving in PA after cleaning the windshield doesn't seem to pick up as much film as a trip through NJ especially around the GW bridge with all the diesel trucks. Don't know why but maybe it is because I drive on the interstates in NJ and on back roads in PA. Getting that film off is difficult. Windex does not even touch it. Because it is an oil film, something like Tide seems to have a better effect, but keep it off the paint.
As for pitting, this has been a problem with European glass since my first VW back in 1964. The glass is softer than American glass although American glass will also pit. You get these tiny little, almost microscopic, pits that are only noticeable when driving into the sun or someones high beams. Usually it takes more than a year to become noticeable but after a few years, you pray for a rock so that your insurance will cover a new windshield. Driving NY, NJ, PA interstates a rock usually happens once every 4-5 years.
As for white paint, I have a 2010 and have not noticed any rust spots in it. The white is not really white but a little cream when compared to a new white GLK. I also run ceramic brake pads to cut down the dust, which some say is the cause of the rust marks in the paint.
Possibly your vehicle was not properly protected on the ocean trip or sat in a windy lot waiting transport. Hope you get your problems resolved.
As for pitting, this has been a problem with European glass since my first VW back in 1964. The glass is softer than American glass although American glass will also pit. You get these tiny little, almost microscopic, pits that are only noticeable when driving into the sun or someones high beams. Usually it takes more than a year to become noticeable but after a few years, you pray for a rock so that your insurance will cover a new windshield. Driving NY, NJ, PA interstates a rock usually happens once every 4-5 years.
As for white paint, I have a 2010 and have not noticed any rust spots in it. The white is not really white but a little cream when compared to a new white GLK. I also run ceramic brake pads to cut down the dust, which some say is the cause of the rust marks in the paint.
Possibly your vehicle was not properly protected on the ocean trip or sat in a windy lot waiting transport. Hope you get your problems resolved.
11-11-2015, 11:17 AM
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MBWorld Fanatic!
More commonly know as "rail dust" - where on open rail transport used to kick up this issue on a failrly regular basis.
Overall, the "hard" factory clear coat used now-a-days which I oft term "ceramic" - as compared to softer old-school clear coats of the '90's and early 2000's - kindof has a micro-surface textures of overlapping "alligator scales" - and it has a tendency to pick up early contamination in those "micro-valley's".
Overall - often a white vinegar mix (25%) - or a product like auto Iron X - put on wet - let sit for a time will hit that stuff - followed by a thorough/thorough.
Overall - best protection for the future involves using sealer (like Einszett Glanzwax - bluetop not the polish) on the clear coat - before applying a top finish - is designed to "fill" those gaps and provide a smoother base surface for top finish bonding.
Glanzwax/Hartwax is a great product since it is a wipe-on - thin even coat - let sit for 10 min - wipe off.
Keep the beat !
Overall, the "hard" factory clear coat used now-a-days which I oft term "ceramic" - as compared to softer old-school clear coats of the '90's and early 2000's - kindof has a micro-surface textures of overlapping "alligator scales" - and it has a tendency to pick up early contamination in those "micro-valley's".
Overall - often a white vinegar mix (25%) - or a product like auto Iron X - put on wet - let sit for a time will hit that stuff - followed by a thorough/thorough.
Overall - best protection for the future involves using sealer (like Einszett Glanzwax - bluetop not the polish) on the clear coat - before applying a top finish - is designed to "fill" those gaps and provide a smoother base surface for top finish bonding.
Glanzwax/Hartwax is a great product since it is a wipe-on - thin even coat - let sit for 10 min - wipe off.
Keep the beat !
11-11-2015, 02:36 PM
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Thank you both for those responses. I thought I was crazy. The dealer probably thinks I'm nuts too. I did the ironx and I'm sure I got out most of the iron. It worked great. Everything was contaminated. I'll wait to see what the dealer says about the windshield. The other glass, I'll read up on, and clean the proper way. I'll look into the sealer you mentioned. I talked to guys at autogeek and bought a recommended sealer and colinite wax, based on my location and a harsh winter ahead.
Again, thank you both for your insight. I think I'll post again when I have this all figured out.
Again, thank you both for your insight. I think I'll post again when I have this all figured out.
11-13-2015, 05:25 PM
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You can use white-vinegar mix sprayed lightly on windshield to clean any oily residue - and wipe off wiper blades with damp cloth same mix.. some contamination can be boggling - it's not you..
