MK - GLK 250 Build Thread
#26
Super Member
#27
Oh i see. I am planning to lubricate my trunk motor, my glk seems have hard time open and close the trunk door when -20. Do you have any recommendations for the lubricant?
#28
Super Member
This is the normal Multi use linked below, however I going to get the dry lube and lithium one soon, the lithium should be exception for metal/metal stuff like door hinges and have a higher temp range then the normal stuff.
Last edited by AzCamel; 02-16-2017 at 11:22 PM.
#29
I use Dupont Teflon lubricant instead of WD40 because it does not attract as much dirt and seems to last longer from my experience. Also check your bolts, it could come slightly loose over time and cause a "clunk" feel or noise, my previous CLK500 had this issue at 50k miles and all i had to do with tighten one of the hinge bolt to fix it.
https://www.amazon.com/DM1046601-PAR.../dp/B00P7F8MW6
https://www.amazon.com/DM1046601-PAR.../dp/B00P7F8MW6
#30
Super Member
Thanks buddy. I never really thought of the hinge bolts, i will definitely check that tomorrow. I also hear some rattling noise from passenger side, dont know where exactly is, it comes and goes, you have any suggestions for me on how to track down the rattling noise coming from?
#31
I am very OCD about the rattling noise too. I am thinking of getting some dynamats to solve the problem. What you normally use to solve the noise problem
#32
Super Member
#33
Senior Member
I use Dupont Teflon lubricant instead of WD40 because it does not attract as much dirt and seems to last longer from my experience. Also check your bolts, it could come slightly loose over time and cause a "clunk" feel or noise, my previous CLK500 had this issue at 50k miles and all i had to do with tighten one of the hinge bolt to fix it.
This is the normal Multi use linked below, however I going to get the dry lube and lithium one soon, the lithium should be exception for metal/metal stuff like door hinges and have a higher temp range then the normal stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/DM1046601-PAR.../dp/B00P7F8MW6
This is the normal Multi use linked below, however I going to get the dry lube and lithium one soon, the lithium should be exception for metal/metal stuff like door hinges and have a higher temp range then the normal stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/DM1046601-PAR.../dp/B00P7F8MW6
https://wd40.com/cool-stuff/history
#34
If your rear hatch is making noise when it opens, try adjusting the opening distance if your car has that option. I adjusted my GLK250 to open just a bit less and the noise went away. It seems like the noise originates from having the hatch to open full.
#35
Question about the two small hoses labeled 1 & 2 in the photo
Need to understand where the ~19mm heater hoses go, can you trace them and post pictures?
Howdy,
I have been following your project, nice work! I have a project where I am retro-fitting the preheater to my US Spec GLK 250 BT and I've run into a problem with lack of online documentation. I think that you can probably look at your 250 and answer the question, if you will? In the attached photo, I've labeled the 2 hoses in question as "1" & "2". Hose 1 exists on my US Spec 250. Hose 2, I only paid attention to when my parts showed up and I saw the Y junction. Before I start tearing the car apart to add the Preheater, I need to resolve what hose 2 does and where it goes. Would you please trace it on your 250 and photograph the other end so that I can figure what additional parts that I need order?
Thanks,
Mike
#36
Hey Mike,
I will take some pictures for you once the weather gets little better. it like -20 in calgary right now with tons of snow. I should be able to get some pictures sometime next week.
I will take some pictures for you once the weather gets little better. it like -20 in calgary right now with tons of snow. I should be able to get some pictures sometime next week.
#37
Cheers,
Mike
#38
Wai Szeto
#39
Has it warmed up enough to take pictures of the smaller hose coming off the Y junction and where it connects?
Thanks,
Mike
#40
Finally got sometime to update my build thread
My MK did not came with the block heater cord, so I decided to install one.
I have purchased the cord from my dealership for $60. Honestly man, I didn't really go search online and see if I can get a better deal, but I think $60 is a fair price.
My MK did not came with the block heater cord, so I decided to install one.
I have purchased the cord from my dealership for $60. Honestly man, I didn't really go search online and see if I can get a better deal, but I think $60 is a fair price.
https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...onnection.html
#41
#42
So, I would greatly appreciate your assistance and pictures in solving this mystery.
Best regards,
Mike
#43
DIY Blind Spot Assist Inoperative Repair
Hello all,
My MK's Blind Spot Assist stopped working ever since last year, I didn't really have time to fix it until recently. Today I just finished the repair and here are some of the details about this repair. This repair is definitely do able by yourself, it will be better if you have two person to help you to take the bumper off, but overall, the difficulties wasn't too hard. My blind spot sensors corroded so bad, and it actually fukked up the wire hardness, which made me have to take the bumper off. If you wire hardness is still good, you do not have to take the bumper off for this projector.
Look at the sensor eh! The best of nothing! Mercedes Benz! I was like that WTF is this. I cant believe how bad my sensors are. I think this is truly designer failure, which caused the water gets into the sensor
Bumper remove
Just follow the above youtube video, you should be able to remove the bumper.
After remove the bumper, I recommend to add some silicone along the sensor gap, so this can prevent the water gets into the sensor again.
By the way, here are the parts number:
Mine MK is 2013 model, which has the 234 blind sport assistant NOT 237 blind spot assistant
Sensor: A 000 905 02 10 (Dealer price: $800 CAD, got it from ebay from Germany for OEM parts for $400) which i found really reasonable. DO NOT ORDER THE SENSOR FROM CHINA. I ordered one and it does not work, which costed me a lot of time to get a refund from ebay.
Wire hardness: 204-440-70-40 (Dealer price: $242 CAD, i was able to get 10% off from the dealership, which I got it for $217.8)
Overall, the project is really straight forward, remove the bumper, replace the sensors and wire hardness, silcone the sensor gap, add dielectric grease to add sensors connection, which includes the parking sensors. Reinstall the bumper, then you are done
Another informative video that I used from youtube
If you guys have anymore questions, let me know.
Special THANKX to Johnny forum member! I really appeicated you helped me with the parts number!
My MK's Blind Spot Assist stopped working ever since last year, I didn't really have time to fix it until recently. Today I just finished the repair and here are some of the details about this repair. This repair is definitely do able by yourself, it will be better if you have two person to help you to take the bumper off, but overall, the difficulties wasn't too hard. My blind spot sensors corroded so bad, and it actually fukked up the wire hardness, which made me have to take the bumper off. If you wire hardness is still good, you do not have to take the bumper off for this projector.
Look at the sensor eh! The best of nothing! Mercedes Benz! I was like that WTF is this. I cant believe how bad my sensors are. I think this is truly designer failure, which caused the water gets into the sensor
Bumper remove
Just follow the above youtube video, you should be able to remove the bumper.
After remove the bumper, I recommend to add some silicone along the sensor gap, so this can prevent the water gets into the sensor again.
By the way, here are the parts number:
Mine MK is 2013 model, which has the 234 blind sport assistant NOT 237 blind spot assistant
Sensor: A 000 905 02 10 (Dealer price: $800 CAD, got it from ebay from Germany for OEM parts for $400) which i found really reasonable. DO NOT ORDER THE SENSOR FROM CHINA. I ordered one and it does not work, which costed me a lot of time to get a refund from ebay.
Wire hardness: 204-440-70-40 (Dealer price: $242 CAD, i was able to get 10% off from the dealership, which I got it for $217.8)
Overall, the project is really straight forward, remove the bumper, replace the sensors and wire hardness, silcone the sensor gap, add dielectric grease to add sensors connection, which includes the parking sensors. Reinstall the bumper, then you are done
Another informative video that I used from youtube
If you guys have anymore questions, let me know.
Special THANKX to Johnny forum member! I really appeicated you helped me with the parts number!
#44
Almost 5 years, and it happened again :(
Haven't updated my built thread for a long time, but thank god I documented what I did with the blind spot inoperative from last time. I reviewed what I did last time to solve the problem, and It actually helped myself to solve the problem again this time for a very low cost.
This is the switch to release the coolant, located on the front driver side.
This is the coolant drain hole, I attached one of the hose to prevent making a mess.
I remember I drained approximately 6 liters of used coolant. it was draining very slow.
Here is the filled milk jug of used coolant. I used the milk jug to measure the amount of coolant that I drain out
While draining the coolant, I did an oil change as well
After the oil change done, I did a quick drain and fill transmission with the filter change. I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine. For next time, I may get the special tool kit to flush off the torque convertor.
The vehicle still gets very decent mileage.
You will need one of these super COVID goggle to prevent dust to get into your eyes when working on the blind spot sensor
I have a dummy sensor from the last repair. It not working properly, but it wont set off the warning message on the dashboard.
My plan was to switch out the blind spot sensor with the dummy one and see if the message will go away. Sure enough, I took the passenger side off, and switched to the dummy one, the message is gone.
This part is still the pain in the *** to take it off
In case people break the clip, here is the part number
After I figure out the passenger sensor acts up. I noticed a rust spot outside of the sensor case. I decided **** it, I will open it up. I was running out of patient and decided to crack open it. It was very difficult to open it. I tried to pray it out and eventually, the plastic case broke and I was able to open it up.
Once I opened it up, I notice a small puddle of brown/rusty water inside the cover. I then suspected the water made the sensor malfunction. I used electrical cleaner to clean the board and the case.
I didn't notice any damage on the board other than a yellow burnt spot on the board. It probably from the water damage. I sprayed the electrical cleaner on the board. waited for it fully dry, then reassemble the sensor. TA DA! IT WORKED. The sensor just working fine. No more error message.
I used the silicone to reseal the sensor and wrapped electrical tape to prevent the moisture enter the sensor. This is really a pain.
I hope it will work for another few years since I checked FCP euro, the price for a new sensor is almost $600. I really don't want to buy 2 new sensors and it will only for work few years
This is the switch to release the coolant, located on the front driver side.
This is the coolant drain hole, I attached one of the hose to prevent making a mess.
I remember I drained approximately 6 liters of used coolant. it was draining very slow.
Here is the filled milk jug of used coolant. I used the milk jug to measure the amount of coolant that I drain out
While draining the coolant, I did an oil change as well
After the oil change done, I did a quick drain and fill transmission with the filter change. I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine. For next time, I may get the special tool kit to flush off the torque convertor.
The vehicle still gets very decent mileage.
You will need one of these super COVID goggle to prevent dust to get into your eyes when working on the blind spot sensor
I have a dummy sensor from the last repair. It not working properly, but it wont set off the warning message on the dashboard.
My plan was to switch out the blind spot sensor with the dummy one and see if the message will go away. Sure enough, I took the passenger side off, and switched to the dummy one, the message is gone.
This part is still the pain in the *** to take it off
In case people break the clip, here is the part number
After I figure out the passenger sensor acts up. I noticed a rust spot outside of the sensor case. I decided **** it, I will open it up. I was running out of patient and decided to crack open it. It was very difficult to open it. I tried to pray it out and eventually, the plastic case broke and I was able to open it up.
Once I opened it up, I notice a small puddle of brown/rusty water inside the cover. I then suspected the water made the sensor malfunction. I used electrical cleaner to clean the board and the case.
I didn't notice any damage on the board other than a yellow burnt spot on the board. It probably from the water damage. I sprayed the electrical cleaner on the board. waited for it fully dry, then reassemble the sensor. TA DA! IT WORKED. The sensor just working fine. No more error message.
I used the silicone to reseal the sensor and wrapped electrical tape to prevent the moisture enter the sensor. This is really a pain.
I hope it will work for another few years since I checked FCP euro, the price for a new sensor is almost $600. I really don't want to buy 2 new sensors and it will only for work few years
The following users liked this post:
andreigbs (02-13-2023)
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: South Central Texas
Posts: 620
Received 157 Likes
on
131 Posts
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
@GLK Super Fan wrote:
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
#46
@GLK Super Fan wrote:
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
This is the bolt looks like to rotate the engine. I spoke with my mechanic, he said I have to buy a special tool.
#47
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: South Central Texas
Posts: 620
Received 157 Likes
on
131 Posts
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
@GLK Super Fan wrote:
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
"I didn't brother to drain the torque convertor since I don't have the special tool to rotate the engine."
With vehicles I've had, I use a breaker bar (or 1/2" torque wrench), with the appropriate size socket to fit the crankcase pulley bolt, to turn the engine.
Thanks for the write-up with photos !!!
...
I went to our 2014 GLK350 Base, fitted the 27mm socket onto the 27mm bolt for the harmonic balancer, and rotated the engine a full 360 degrees. I also reached down to feel inside the harmonic balancer and there's only ONE bolt, so not sure what your photo with 4 bolts is showing.
Two photos below - one shows the wrench/socket attached to the single harmonic balancer bolt. The photo is me leaning against the front grill, looking down at the balancer ... radiator fan is at bottom and air cleaner cover is at top of photo.
... the 2nd shows the 2" extension and 27mm socket.
wrench/socket on bolt
..
..
27mm socket and 2" extension
Last edited by calder-cay; 02-13-2023 at 06:45 PM.
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
Be careful using your torque wrench to turn the engine! If it clicks you either need to set it higher, or get a bigger torque wrench!
#49
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: South Central Texas
Posts: 620
Received 157 Likes
on
131 Posts
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
It doesn't take much effort to rotate the engine manually like this
#50
...
...
Okay, to further my last post ... I went to my toolbox and grabbed a two inch extension, 27mm socket, and torque wrench.
I went to our 2014 GLK350 Base, fitted the 27mm socket onto the 27mm bolt for the harmonic balancer, and rotated the engine a full 360 degrees. I also reached down to feel inside the harmonic balancer and there's only ONE bolt, so not sure what your photo with 4 bolts is showing.
Two photos below - one shows the wrench/socket attached to the single harmonic balancer bolt. The photo is me leaning against the front grill, looking down at the balancer ... radiator fan is at bottom and air cleaner cover is at top of photo.
... the 2nd shows the 2" extension and 27mm socket.
wrench/socket on bolt
..
..
27mm socket and 2" extension
...
Okay, to further my last post ... I went to my toolbox and grabbed a two inch extension, 27mm socket, and torque wrench.
I went to our 2014 GLK350 Base, fitted the 27mm socket onto the 27mm bolt for the harmonic balancer, and rotated the engine a full 360 degrees. I also reached down to feel inside the harmonic balancer and there's only ONE bolt, so not sure what your photo with 4 bolts is showing.
Two photos below - one shows the wrench/socket attached to the single harmonic balancer bolt. The photo is me leaning against the front grill, looking down at the balancer ... radiator fan is at bottom and air cleaner cover is at top of photo.
... the 2nd shows the 2" extension and 27mm socket.
wrench/socket on bolt
..
..
27mm socket and 2" extension