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This is going to be my first build thread. I recently got myself a 2013 GLK 250 and me and my wife named him MK (Mercedes Benz GLK) So far, this car is awesome, not too much to complaint about. Anyway, let get the build thread start.
First thing I did after I got the vehicle was to put on winter tires and rims.
Here is my winter tire setup
Rims
Size: 17 x 8
Offset: 35
Colour: Satin Black
Style: VMR Mercedes replica with mercedes benz logo center cap (No Hub adaptor required)
Tire Sensors: no need!(YES! Love it how glk250 Canadian model use the ABS for TPMS)
Tires:
Brand: Bridgestone Blazzard WS80 (Love this tire! Best Winter Tire set I ever had)
Size: 235/60/R17
I really love this winter tire setup. I do believe this is one of the most cost efficiency setup for GLK. I got the tires from Costco for $659.96 + $16 Tire Levy + Tax 5% = $709.76
For the rims, I got it from Tire Surplus, the owner Sam gave me a really good deal, $750 for the rims including mount and balance. Highly recommend him! Awesome guy to deal with
So the total I spent for this winter tire setup is $1459.76, compared to the quote that dealer gave to for $2952.43, I saved $1492.67.
If Sam did not offer me the free installation, i probably will let Costco to do it. The only down side for this winter setup is not run flat, so this is what I did. I got two bottles of flat tire repair kit from Canadian Tire for $35. With the min tire pump that came with the vehicle, I think i should be OK
Make sure to put some latex gloves under the tire seal to prevent the bottle sliding in the trunk
And finally here are some pictures of my winter tire setup
The next thing I did was I got the floor mats and trunk floor mat from the dealership. Man, my wallets hurts $280.51 with $10 discount already :s
I missed my high school buddy that used to work in mercedes benz dealership parts department
Part Number:
Floor Mats: Q-6-68-0695
Trunk Floor Mat: A204-814-05-41
Somehow I talked to the guy gave me $10 discount , better than nothing LOL
The next thing I did was replaced my front rotors and pads. Originally i was going to replace front and rear at the same time, but my rear pads still have approximately 40% life left, so i decided to do my rear rotors and pads next year.
I got the quote from the dealership for front and rear, rotors,pads and sensors for total $814.98, which is not that bad price for OEM parts. My only concern with the OEM rotors, which is Zimmermann, was lots of members complained rotor wrap issue.
The parts that I ordered:
Stop Tech 126.35080SL
Stop Tech 126.35080 SR
The total cost for the stop tech slotted rotors are $453.31, which are $91.69 more expansive compare to the OEM rotors. I had stop tech rotors on my w204 (C250 4MATIC) before and I had great experience with stop tech, which made me wants to go with Stop tech rotors instead of OEM (Plus the OEM rotors wrap issues). I feel like the extra $91.69 are justified since the stop tech rotors are slotted, black paint coated for the rotors head (rust prevention) and much better looking compare to Zimmermann OEM rotors.
I actually called the TDOTperformance customer services regarding if I should get the cryo treated for my rotors. Man! The customer services representative that I spoke with was very knowledgeable regarding with the stop tech rotors. I followed his advice and did not pick cryo treated since I will never bring my MK to the track LOL. I highly recommended this website for Canadian owner since there are no duties and taxes compare if we order from US website like TireRack.
For the break pads, I ordered from wrench monkey, which is another Canadian website to sell parts.
The Akebono pads came with new sensors x 2(which we only need one for the passenger side) and the replacement brackets. I love akebono break pads, much better than the OEM in terms of stopping power and DUST! The cost for this set Akebono break pads was $172.11, which $8.27 more than the OEM, but I feel like is totally justified whenever I have to clean my wheels, the break dust from the OEM pads are just not acceptable!
By the way, both Tdotperformance and Wrench monkey offered free shipping, which is awesome The total cost for me for the rotors and pads are: $625.42
There are few members posted on how to change break pads on GLK
The only thing I did extra was I got myself few rotors screws. I remembered the last time I changed my rotors on my w204, the rotors screw stuck.rust so bad and I have the drilled in order to remove the rotor.
And here are the pictures for after the rotors and pads replaced
My MK did not came with the block heater cord, so I decided to install one.
I have purchased the cord from my dealership for $60. Honestly man, I didn't really go search online and see if I can get a better deal, but I think $60 is a fair price.
The part number for the block heater cord: Q-6-02-0611
From what my dealer told me, the block heater are standard option for all Canadian GLK250 model, but the cord is a option that the owner can decide to put on or not Oh well, they quoted me to wire the block heater cord inside the hood (they called cord ready) will be $150 labour plus parts ($60), which is gonna be something like this
I would like to mount my block heater plug-in connection under the day time running light, dealer quoted me $250 labour plus $60 parts, which is something like is
My services adviser told me that the block heater cord location are located in front of the engine near the bottom. I decided to give a try to install it before I give up $150 or $250. Since right now it winter time, I really don't feel like taking the bumper off, so I decided to go with option 1, cord ready. I will eventually mount my block heater cord plug-in under my day time running light in summer time.
After doing some research in the forum, the following thread helped me out a lot
In order to locate the block heater cord plug-in, you have to remove the intake hose, after you remove the intake hose, you should be able to see the following
There will be a black plastic cover that you have to remove, which looks like this
After you remove the black plastic cover, then plug the cord into the connector, be careful not letting the plug-in wire touch the fan, because that will damage the connection. I have wired my connection like this
The last step that you have to do is to connect the ground wire
Now all you have to do is to fish the wire connection below the wiper blade on the passenger side
This is it I believe is good enough for this winter Hopefully in summer time, I will be able to find time to mount the connection permanently under the day time running light.
I order a K&N filter from amazon.ca. At first I ordered the K&N filter from the official K&N website,but i remembered my last K&N filter that I ordered got tax for almost $40 from custom! Man, so I decided to search online and see if I can find any Canadian seller that sells k&N filter. I found it on amazon.ca for $116.11 which is like $20 cheaper compare order from k&n website
$20 cheaper and I will not get custom tax?!?!? Man I love amazon.ca !
The filter came-in few days after I placed my order. The package was well packed
I didn't expect the size of the filter are that HUGE. I did lots of research on how to replace the engine air filter, the following video helped me out a lot
I don't think It hard to replace the filter, but it just takes time to do it.
After I removed the original filter, I took time to clean the air filter box
After 30 mins of cleaning
The last step was to install the K&N filter
I always have K&N filter on all my vehicle. LOVE IT! Never have to buy another paper filter again! I believe this is a must to have for every vehicle owner.
K&N is snake oil. OEM filters are as good or better without the risk of the filter oil fouling sensors.
Agreed formerjeepguy.
Above & beyond the oil issue is the fact that the only way to make a filter flow more air and still prevent dirt from entering the engine is to increase the size of the filters surface area while maintaining the same filter media density. (simple physics really) of course that's hard to do when using a factory air box. So K&N just makes the filter more porous to flow more air & hopes the dirt sticks to the oil. Of course this means properly cleaning and oiling the K&N. Too much oil & you can foul the MAF, Too little and dirt gets into your engine. I'll lay odds that most (especially new K&N filter users) use way too much oil. Scary as hell to use less oil though. I heard MB engine are costly to rebuild.
There's also the fact that a turbo engine creates a very high vacuum on the fresh air intake side of the impeller under high boost. Which can and does suck the oil off the filter.
Build it and they will come. Market it and they will buy.
Originally Posted by super7pilot
Agreed formerjeepguy.
Above & beyond the oil issue is the fact that the only way to make a filter flow more air and still prevent dirt from entering the engine is to increase the size of the filters surface area while maintaining the same filter media density. (simple physics really) of course that's hard to do when using a factory air box. So K&N just makes the filter more porous to flow more air & hopes the dirt sticks to the oil. Of course this means properly cleaning and oiling the K&N. Too much oil & you can foul the MAF, Too little and dirt gets into your engine. I'll lay odds that most (especially new K&N filter users) use way too much oil. Scary as hell to use less oil though. I heard MB engine are costly to rebuild.
There's also the fact that a turbo engine creates a very high vacuum on the fresh air intake side of the impeller under high boost. Which can and does suck the oil off the filter.
very nice work. I was going to do the K&N but with my 2010 model requires 2 of them so the cost versus time to recoup the cost was not worth it to me.
Thx buddy. Honestly, the K&N filter will pay for itself eventually with the fuel savings and filter replacement. Today is my first time seeing my glk running 6.0l/100km after the k&n filter installed. Loving it so far!!
Agreed formerjeepguy.
Above & beyond the oil issue is the fact that the only way to make a filter flow more air and still prevent dirt from entering the engine is to increase the size of the filters surface area while maintaining the same filter media density. (simple physics really) of course that's hard to do when using a factory air box. So K&N just makes the filter more porous to flow more air & hopes the dirt sticks to the oil. Of course this means properly cleaning and oiling the K&N. Too much oil & you can foul the MAF, Too little and dirt gets into your engine. I'll lay odds that most (especially new K&N filter users) use way too much oil. Scary as hell to use less oil though. I heard MB engine are costly to rebuild.
There's also the fact that a turbo engine creates a very high vacuum on the fresh air intake side of the impeller under high boost. Which can and does suck the oil off the filter.
Honestly man, i don't think too many people will run their vehicle to 500 000km nowadays, i cant say K&N will or will not damage the the engine in long run, but who cares, most people nowadays sell their vehicle before 200 000km. I am sure a filter can't screw up an engine before 200 000km. Plus if just the MAF sensor are dirty , you can always clean it and replace it. I really like how the car runs now after i replace with K&N filter.
Honestly man, i don't think too many people will run their vehicle to 500 000km nowadays, i cant say K&N will or will not damage the the engine in long run, but who cares, most people nowadays sell their vehicle before 200 000km. I am sure a filter can't screw up an engine before 200 000km. Plus if just the MAF sensor are dirty , you can always clean it and replace it. I really like how the car runs now after i replace with K&N filter.
So you don't care as you'll get rid of it and therefore it's the next guys problem.
Well 200,000Km isn't that high a mileage for a diesel.
But still, it's just the attitude that gets me. It may not fail in that 200,000Km, But it could have more damage than it should have at that mileage. But as you say "who cares" Which is a typical self centered attitude.
Well 200,000Km isn't that high a mileage for a diesel.
But still, it's just the attitude that gets me. It may not fail in that 200,000Km, But it could have more damage than it should have at that mileage. But as you say "who cares" Which is a typical self centered attitude.
You cant even 100% sure the K&N filter will damage the system. I am sorry, my time worth too much, not gonna care my vehicle's next owner. If they decide to get a used high mileage vehicle, they should accept the responsibilities.
Just look at the whole thread. He's "building" a GLK. Don't know, but in my book putting a can of tire flat in a GLK bin (and then photographing and posting it) is not building a vehicle. Posting MULTIPLE photos of a rubber mat, in the plastic, out of the plastic and then laying in the footwell is not building a vehicle.
Showing the installation of a block heater is good stuff along with how to install an air filter. That is, no doubt, useful to some people. The rest is dribble.
Originally Posted by super7pilot
Well 200,000Km isn't that high a mileage for a diesel.
But still, it's just the attitude that gets me. It may not fail in that 200,000Km, But it could have more damage than it should have at that mileage. But as you say "who cares" Which is a typical self centered attitude.
Just look at the whole thread. He's "building" a GLK. Don't know, but in my book putting a can of tire flat in a GLK bin (and then photographing and posting it) is not building a vehicle. Posting MULTIPLE photos of a rubber mat, in the plastic, out of the plastic and then laying in the footwell is not building a vehicle.
Showing the installation of a block heater is good stuff along with how to install an air filter. That is, no doubt, useful to some people. The rest is dribble.
Thank you for your comments If you don't like it, you don't have to read it
Ok, let get the build thread continue before people go crazy with my K&N filters LOL Recently i heard noise coming from my HVAC blower motor. The noise was very noticeable when I increase/decrease the fan speed. After doing some research in google, I found out that blower motor is common issue for w204/x204. I did price out for the part that I need to fix the noise, but it cost $150 I decided to open it up first and see what is going on in the HVAC blower motor before I order my replacement part.
Here is the instructions on how to remove the blower motor
The only tricky part to remove the blower motor part was to pull down the tab and turn the motor clockwise. It was confuse at first where the tab located.
After I removed the blower motor, oh man! It was super dirty. I decided to use a brush and my air compressor to clean it.
After removed most of the dust, I sprayed the blower motor with WD40
I used the air compressor to spin the blower motor at high speed after I added the WD40. Repeat this step for two or three times. Once you feel like you have completed lubricated the blower motor, then you can reinstall it back.
P.S I also used my air compressor cleaned my cabin air filter as well.
After reinstalled back the blower motor, the noise was gone and everything back to normal. YEAHHH. Hopefully my blower motor will last me for another year or two before I have to replace it.
Tried the blower motor lube on my E500 before and unfortunately the bearing is the thing that is making noise and need constant lubricant to be quite, the chirping came back in a few hundred miles for me.
Tried the blower motor lube on my E500 before and unfortunately the bearing is the thing that is making noise and need constant lubricant to be quite, the chirping came back in a few hundred miles for me.
That suck, how much it cost you to replace the part?
02-02-2017, 02:30 PM
$280.51 with $10 discount already :s 
Oh well, they quoted me to wire the block heater cord inside the hood (they called cord ready) will be $150 labour plus parts ($60), which is gonna be something like this
