M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

I wanna lower my ML500

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Old 12-10-2008, 12:34 AM
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2003 ML500,06 C230 Sport
I wanna lower my ML500

I wanna lower my 03 ML500 but it looks liks I gotta some different shocks for the back what do I need for this to come out gr8 doing the measuring and adjusting the torsion bar isn't a issue I had always thought would be putting the lowering spring on a set of coil-overs like are on there now now I know thats not the case.


And any feedback on how the ML rides after the mods compared to b4 would be gr8ly appreciated as well.

Thanx in advance Fastfish/Geoff
Old 12-11-2008, 04:44 PM
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There are a lot of posts here about lowering the ML. It's gotta be done very carefully.
  1. The simplest route that a lot of us have taken is H&R lowering springs in the back then lower the fronts by adjusting the torsion bar. This works well as long as you don't drive on very bad roads. Here's the explanation I got from an aftermarket installer - the stroke of the OEM rear shocks is not tuned to the length of the H&R springs. In harsh situations, you may bottom out and break something, especially if you bling the thing with Lo Profile tires. It's rare but I know of one person who's had this problem. That's one reason MB will not sell you only shocks or springs - they always come in matched sets!
  2. The second option that has worked very well is to do Bilstein shocks along with H&R in the back and torsion bar up front with OEM springs. A bit harsh (again depends somewhat on tire size) but bearable.
  3. The Third option is to do B'Steins on all four corners, H&R in the rear and then lower the front via the T-bar (great ride but maybe harsh for urban prowlers. If, however, like me, you do mostly highway driving, then why not?)
  4. The fourth and most desirable option is to change the setup of the ML's suspension system. There are very few (maybe just one) aftermarket outfits that can do this correctly. Here's a great article to my point: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...specialty_file
Old 04-02-2009, 12:54 AM
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02 W163
okay guys, so im gonna bring up a old thread(not that old)
So i finally got my 22s on. riding on 285/35
I need some advice from the above member or anyone else that may wish to help..
Basically, i want to lower my car without breaking anything, that includes rims, tires, suspension, ect...

I read the above post, and i was just wondering if this is a good way of doing it..
See the thing is that i never knew that you cant lower the front with springs. (torsion bar)

So here is my plan.
HR springs rear and lower the front torsion bars! ALONG with bilstein shocks front/rear??
I would like to know if it would rub on the 22s if i lower it that way, and which springs would lower best for 22s.(no rubs,no problems)
Also i would likeabout 2inch left between the tire and fender.

pls give me some advice, because that would be my next mod
here is how my car looks like now


would i need camber kit inorder for my wheels to not be slanted?
Old 04-03-2009, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkmann
There are a lot of posts here about lowering the ML. It's gotta be done very carefully.
  1. The simplest route that a lot of us have taken is H&R lowering springs in the back then lower the fronts by adjusting the torsion bar. This works well as long as you don't drive on very bad roads. Here's the explanation I got from an aftermarket installer - the stroke of the OEM rear shocks is not tuned to the length of the H&R springs. In harsh situations, you may bottom out and break something, especially if you bling the thing with Lo Profile tires. It's rare but I know of one person who's had this problem. That's one reason MB will not sell you only shocks or springs - they always come in matched sets!
  2. The second option that has worked very well is to do Bilstein shocks along with H&R in the back and torsion bar up front with OEM springs. A bit harsh (again depends somewhat on tire size) but bearable.
  3. The Third option is to do B'Steins on all four corners, H&R in the rear and then lower the front via the T-bar (great ride but maybe harsh for urban prowlers. If, however, like me, you do mostly highway driving, then why not?)
  4. The fourth and most desirable option is to change the setup of the ML's suspension system. There are very few (maybe just one) aftermarket outfits that can do this correctly. Here's a great article to my point: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...specialty_file
I have the Bilstein/H&R set up... I dropped over all about 3" after it settled... I rub all the fcking time on stock 18 AMG wheels... I even halved the bump stops to give the shock a little more travel in the front... noooope
Old 04-04-2009, 02:05 AM
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ML320, Looking for my S4
Mine dropped 2inches all around on Eibach's and bilstins HD's AMAZING RIDE
Old 04-04-2009, 04:00 AM
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02 W163
see im on 22,s would 2 inch be better or 3 inch?? i dont want to rub or anything ..
Old 04-06-2009, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy_s4
Mine dropped 2inches all around on Eibach's and bilstins HD's AMAZING RIDE
couldnt be... if you lowered the front via torsion bar... there is little to no travel on the Bilstein HDs... although maybe the 1" makes a difference? Doubt it... on the highway my truck drives amazing... in a city(especially NY) I want to kill myself
Old 04-08-2009, 12:36 AM
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02 W163
sso anyone have an idea of what i should do with the torsion bar, If im getting bilsteins,
and im sitting on 285/35/22inch wheels ????
pls and thank you
Old 08-24-2015, 10:49 PM
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1999 ML320
How low

How low can we drop these things without having issues. I keep going back and forth on putting hydraulics on mine. I've seen some guys bagged them but can't find any info. Suspension does not worry me at all as I can handle that. The issue is the front axles. Has anyone ran into issues after a static drop? I would be laying truck on wheel wells or frame whatever came first.

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