01 ML320 BAS/ESP, 4-ETS, ABS, Brake Light
10-06-2016, 08:34 PM
#101
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ML320 Petrol - 1998 model & C250 Diesel - 1993 model
I'll try your suggestions. I pray it works for me too. Thanks. Hi all, this eternal issue with the yellow warning lights coming on for no earthly reason has been bugging me for 6months but I found the fix! In summer they occasionally came on after starting and driving for around 1hour. As winter approached they came on more often and it got to a point now that they come up upon starting and stay on all the time, even after stopping and starting the engine again. Its winter now and temp around 15 deg C. Our summer temps were around 30 deg C here in Sydney Australia.
Well me being a avionics tech with 40 years experience I have seen all kinds of intermittent faults, temp related faults, vibration related faults but Im not saying that Iam a mercedes expert by any means.
I did replace the brake light switch a few weeks after the three lights first came on. I bought a switch on Ebay from the US, it was supposed to be OEM. When it arrived it had no mercedes part number stamped on it, only "made in Italy". What the.....! But which Italy? Anyway the fault went away for about 2 weeks then came back and steadily got worse as we moved into winter, as I said earlier.
Now I had a long hard think about all this. I decided to have a lot at my original brake light switch which I stashed away in my spare parts bin.
It was blue in colour and had the mercedes part number stamped on it.
Its seems to be a recent p/n as it ended in 95 02. I belive the early switches ended in 20 02, 31 02 or 64 02. So it looks like the previous owner had gone to a mercedes dealer in the past with a similar problem.
I operated the switch actuator shaft plunger by hand and it felt quiet mushy, not the definite switching action usually heard with push button switches, I couldnt even hear it click when the contacts changed over as verified by my multimeter on ohms range.
So I got out my can of contact cleaner, I use SS113 but Electrolube or any good brand will do and I gave the switch a good dose down the actuating shaft to flush it out. Now it makes a definite and pronounced click when the contact operate. I removed the switch I had previously fitted, the "Italy switch" and refitted my old original switch after flushing it with contact cleaner.
The good news is that no more BAS/ESP/ETS lights problem! Its been a month now and all working fine. Im convinced the replacement switch I bought was not up to specs and my old switch had collected carpet dust and whatever else was floating around and it found its way up the actuator shaft.
My take on this system is that there is a single pole, double throw contact set which is for the ESP and to drop off the cruise control and the other set which is just a single pole single throw contact set used for the brake lights. Both these contacts go to the ESP module and ABS module which also measure the time it takes for one set of contacts to open and the other brake light set to close and this tells the system how hard you are braking etc.
Im sure that some dust or other stuff got inside the switch and was interferring with the operating distance between the sets of contacts and the ESP module was interpreting this as invalid data and spat the dummy if you follow what I mean.
I could be way off base here, im not sure how temperature affected the switch but it was a temp related fault. All I know is that cleaning the original mercedes switch until I could actually hear the contacts clicking instead of hearing nothing prior, fixed my problem.
Well me being a avionics tech with 40 years experience I have seen all kinds of intermittent faults, temp related faults, vibration related faults but Im not saying that Iam a mercedes expert by any means.
I did replace the brake light switch a few weeks after the three lights first came on. I bought a switch on Ebay from the US, it was supposed to be OEM. When it arrived it had no mercedes part number stamped on it, only "made in Italy". What the.....! But which Italy? Anyway the fault went away for about 2 weeks then came back and steadily got worse as we moved into winter, as I said earlier.
Now I had a long hard think about all this. I decided to have a lot at my original brake light switch which I stashed away in my spare parts bin.
It was blue in colour and had the mercedes part number stamped on it.
Its seems to be a recent p/n as it ended in 95 02. I belive the early switches ended in 20 02, 31 02 or 64 02. So it looks like the previous owner had gone to a mercedes dealer in the past with a similar problem.
I operated the switch actuator shaft plunger by hand and it felt quiet mushy, not the definite switching action usually heard with push button switches, I couldnt even hear it click when the contacts changed over as verified by my multimeter on ohms range.
So I got out my can of contact cleaner, I use SS113 but Electrolube or any good brand will do and I gave the switch a good dose down the actuating shaft to flush it out. Now it makes a definite and pronounced click when the contact operate. I removed the switch I had previously fitted, the "Italy switch" and refitted my old original switch after flushing it with contact cleaner.
The good news is that no more BAS/ESP/ETS lights problem! Its been a month now and all working fine. Im convinced the replacement switch I bought was not up to specs and my old switch had collected carpet dust and whatever else was floating around and it found its way up the actuator shaft.
My take on this system is that there is a single pole, double throw contact set which is for the ESP and to drop off the cruise control and the other set which is just a single pole single throw contact set used for the brake lights. Both these contacts go to the ESP module and ABS module which also measure the time it takes for one set of contacts to open and the other brake light set to close and this tells the system how hard you are braking etc.
Im sure that some dust or other stuff got inside the switch and was interferring with the operating distance between the sets of contacts and the ESP module was interpreting this as invalid data and spat the dummy if you follow what I mean.
I could be way off base here, im not sure how temperature affected the switch but it was a temp related fault. All I know is that cleaning the original mercedes switch until I could actually hear the contacts clicking instead of hearing nothing prior, fixed my problem.
10-18-2016, 07:05 PM
#102
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ML320 Petrol - 1998 model & C250 Diesel - 1993 model
Finally solved the ML320 ABS/ETS/Brake Light Problem.
Hello,
Finally my ML320 works fine without any yellow lights for over a week now. Thanks to the ideas from Jim and other guys on this forum. Your submissions lead me to the problem area but my actual solution is a little different from all yours. It may help someone someday. Here is what I did:-[*]Step by step troubleshooting:
- I hardwired the two wires to the ABS pump. Pump works fine.
- K25 relay was switch with the fan blower relay. K25 works fine.
- F22 and F27 fuses are ok. I cleaned the legs with a wire brush and replaced them.
- During panic stop on the road, K25 contacts will close and send 12v to the red wire to the ABS pump. So, if K25 is okay, I assume that the ABS electronics control module is bad. Some of you guys complained about weak soldering joints on the electronic board. Removing the 15pins connector is a little hard with bear hands. After pulling up the latch/cover on the connector, I had to use the rod of the spanner to lift it up. Then, the cable got released. 4 long screws hold the ABS electronics board to the ABS module.
- I scraped off the gel-like coating on the back of the ABS electronics board. After wire brushing the contacts clean, I re-soldered all the joints....taking care that no two joints touch each other.
- After clean soldering, I applied White Silicone gel to cover the electronics side and cover.
-Up till that time, I assumed that my problem should be solved like others who had weak soldering joints and re-soldering solved theirs.
Lo and behold, excitedly I returned the board to the car, screwed it back and attempted to connect the two wire connector from the ABS pump. That is my real problem. The installation of the wires (especially the red) were just peeling off. The conductor has been seriously oxidized and had changed colour. In fact, both wires just came out of the connector. I took some pictures. Hope there is a way to upload them. I bought the vehicle from USA with the ABS & ETS lights on. After driving for about two months, the intermittent brake light issue started and I had to restart the vehicle several times a day!!! Very annoying and already cost me a new battery. I live in a very muddy area and water must have been finding way into the ABS Assembly thus oxidizing the ABS pump cable and making it loose firm contacts with the ABS electronic board. Hence, the reason for the electrical fault that intermittently switch on the emergency brake light and which will disappear after restarting the vehicle. This type of problem is always more difficult to solve.
-Now, I had to remove the ABS pump completely. After sliding out the plastic cover, one long screw holds down the ABS pump. Pump came out nicely and I took back to my work bench to work on the cables.
- I reinforced both cables by soldering them all the way from the bottom to top. Then, I re-insulated each with black insulation tape. To prevent water from entering the joints, I pushed some white silicone gel into the base of the wire where they enter the pump assembly. The whole surgery looks successful. Slided back the plastic cover and reconnected the all the cables.
- To have enough room to work, I had to remove the mud cover on top of the tire and also the driver side headlamp.
-Returned all connectors and also added more white silicon gel to seal off water ingress into the ABS wire connector.
- Moment of truth came when I started the vehicle and all yellow lights disappeared immediately. No need to erase any fault with a scanning tool. The whole system just reset itself. Hurray........I jump up for joy because none of all the mechanics I have visited could even solve the problem. Most were doing try and error methods. Be careful for some mechanics, they will only disbale the lights on board but the problems will remain.
- For almost 2weeks, I have been driving with a clean dashboard.
Regards to all,
Yemi from Nigeria.
Finally my ML320 works fine without any yellow lights for over a week now. Thanks to the ideas from Jim and other guys on this forum. Your submissions lead me to the problem area but my actual solution is a little different from all yours. It may help someone someday. Here is what I did:-[*]Step by step troubleshooting:
- I hardwired the two wires to the ABS pump. Pump works fine.
- K25 relay was switch with the fan blower relay. K25 works fine.
- F22 and F27 fuses are ok. I cleaned the legs with a wire brush and replaced them.
- During panic stop on the road, K25 contacts will close and send 12v to the red wire to the ABS pump. So, if K25 is okay, I assume that the ABS electronics control module is bad. Some of you guys complained about weak soldering joints on the electronic board. Removing the 15pins connector is a little hard with bear hands. After pulling up the latch/cover on the connector, I had to use the rod of the spanner to lift it up. Then, the cable got released. 4 long screws hold the ABS electronics board to the ABS module.
- I scraped off the gel-like coating on the back of the ABS electronics board. After wire brushing the contacts clean, I re-soldered all the joints....taking care that no two joints touch each other.
- After clean soldering, I applied White Silicone gel to cover the electronics side and cover.
-Up till that time, I assumed that my problem should be solved like others who had weak soldering joints and re-soldering solved theirs.
Lo and behold, excitedly I returned the board to the car, screwed it back and attempted to connect the two wire connector from the ABS pump. That is my real problem. The installation of the wires (especially the red) were just peeling off. The conductor has been seriously oxidized and had changed colour. In fact, both wires just came out of the connector. I took some pictures. Hope there is a way to upload them. I bought the vehicle from USA with the ABS & ETS lights on. After driving for about two months, the intermittent brake light issue started and I had to restart the vehicle several times a day!!! Very annoying and already cost me a new battery. I live in a very muddy area and water must have been finding way into the ABS Assembly thus oxidizing the ABS pump cable and making it loose firm contacts with the ABS electronic board. Hence, the reason for the electrical fault that intermittently switch on the emergency brake light and which will disappear after restarting the vehicle. This type of problem is always more difficult to solve.
-Now, I had to remove the ABS pump completely. After sliding out the plastic cover, one long screw holds down the ABS pump. Pump came out nicely and I took back to my work bench to work on the cables.
- I reinforced both cables by soldering them all the way from the bottom to top. Then, I re-insulated each with black insulation tape. To prevent water from entering the joints, I pushed some white silicone gel into the base of the wire where they enter the pump assembly. The whole surgery looks successful. Slided back the plastic cover and reconnected the all the cables.
- To have enough room to work, I had to remove the mud cover on top of the tire and also the driver side headlamp.
-Returned all connectors and also added more white silicon gel to seal off water ingress into the ABS wire connector.
- Moment of truth came when I started the vehicle and all yellow lights disappeared immediately. No need to erase any fault with a scanning tool. The whole system just reset itself. Hurray........I jump up for joy because none of all the mechanics I have visited could even solve the problem. Most were doing try and error methods. Be careful for some mechanics, they will only disbale the lights on board but the problems will remain.
- For almost 2weeks, I have been driving with a clean dashboard.
Regards to all,
Yemi from Nigeria.
01-26-2017, 05:16 PM
#103
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ml320
I am having the same problem on my 99 ml320 but not only are the lights on but I have a nonstop dinging while driving it only stops when you come to a complete stop or the car is in park.
01-26-2017, 07:21 PM
#104
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ML320 Petrol - 1998 model & C250 Diesel - 1993 model
....am having the same problem on my 99 ml320 but not only are the lights on....
Try the suggestions above for your ABS/ETS and Brake light issues. It should work. Mine never came back since I solved the problem.
As for the singling sound, that is purely a mechanical problem. Even, a scan May not accurately detect that. You will need to do some physical observation of your drive train. I am suspecting the shaft rod center casing rubber or any of the other two connecting rubbers at both ends of the propeller shaft. Pls observe safety rules if you must do the checking yourself. The hubs of the wheels can also be a culprit. Jack each of the tire up and manually roll the wheels. Listen to any unusual sound.
Check those areas first and let us know if the singling problem will be detected.
I wish you the best.
01-26-2017, 07:26 PM
#105
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ML320 Petrol - 1998 model & C250 Diesel - 1993 model
....am having the same problem on my 99 ml320 but not only are the lights on....
Try the suggestions above for your ABS/ETS and Brake light issues. It should work. Mine never came back since I solved the problem.
As for the singling sound, that is purely a mechanical problem. Even, a scan May not accurately detect that. You will need to do some physical observation of your drive train. I am suspecting the shaft rod center casing rubber or any of the other two connecting rubbers at both ends of the propeller shaft. Pls observe safety rules if you must do the checking yourself. The hubs of the wheels can also be a culprit. Jack each of the tire up and manually roll the wheels. Listen to any unusual sound.
Check those areas first and let us know if the singling problem will be detected.
I wish you the best.
11-04-2017, 03:46 PM
#106
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2000 ML320 I feel your pain my friend
I have a 01 ML320. I start the suv and everything is fine. Check engine light stays on but otherwise runs great. After runing for 7 minutes and 45 seconds there are several beeps and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake Light all come on. The speed odometer, odometer, and sometimes fuel gauge stop working. It will stay in witchever forward gear it is in (ie; if its in 3rd when this happends, even if i stop and put it in reverse, back up, then put it back in Drive, even though it will say its in D the transmission would still be in 3rd. or whatever it was when this happend) Sometimes it will run rough, other times it will go like a raped ape. Now hears the kicker. All i have to do is restart the car and everything is fine. All lights go out but the check engine light. Sometime the check engine light goes off. Of course, after runing for 7 minutes and 45 second it starts beeping again, and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake light come on again, etc. My local dealer is stumped. Anyone got any ideas? the one constant is`the time from start to error. I would be greatful for any ideas.
Re-starting every 7.5 minutes is getting old. :~(`
Jason
Re-starting every 7.5 minutes is getting old. :~(`
Jason
01-24-2018, 11:37 PM
#107
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2000ml320
Same Issues for 5years
I've gone through this for years ...my ml320 stayed parked more than I drove it...the dealership has patiently waited until I no longer have a warranty ..keep saying they can n
ot fond anything but this is ridiculous and very convient for MBUSA...Im feeling class action lawsuit!
ot fond anything but this is ridiculous and very convient for MBUSA...Im feeling class action lawsuit!
I have a 01 ML320. I
start the suv and everything is fine. Check engine light stays on but otherwise runs great. After runing for 7 minutes and 45 seconds there are several beeps and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake Light all come on. The speed odometer, odometer, and sometimes fuel gauge stop working. It will. stay in witchever forward gear it is in (ie; if its in 3rd when this happends, even if i stop and put it in reverse, back up, then put it back in Drive, even though it will say its in D the transmission would still be in 3rd. or whatever it was when this happend) Sometimes it will run rough, other times it will go like a raped ape. Now hears the kicker. All i have to do is restart the car and everything is fine. All lights go out but the check engine light. Sometime the check engine light goes off. Of course, after runing for 7 minutes and 45 second it starts beeping again, and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake light come on again, etc. My local dealer is stumped. Anyone got any ideas? the one constant is`the time from start to error. I would be greatful for any ideas.
Re-starting every 7.5 minutes is getting old. :~(`
Jason
start the suv and everything is fine. Check engine light stays on but otherwise runs great. After runing for 7 minutes and 45 seconds there are several beeps and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake Light all come on. The speed odometer, odometer, and sometimes fuel gauge stop working. It will. stay in witchever forward gear it is in (ie; if its in 3rd when this happends, even if i stop and put it in reverse, back up, then put it back in Drive, even though it will say its in D the transmission would still be in 3rd. or whatever it was when this happend) Sometimes it will run rough, other times it will go like a raped ape. Now hears the kicker. All i have to do is restart the car and everything is fine. All lights go out but the check engine light. Sometime the check engine light goes off. Of course, after runing for 7 minutes and 45 second it starts beeping again, and the BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake light come on again, etc. My local dealer is stumped. Anyone got any ideas? the one constant is`the time from start to error. I would be greatful for any ideas.
Re-starting every 7.5 minutes is getting old. :~(`
Jason
08-15-2019, 09:10 AM
#108
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Mercedes 320 ML 98
Hello brothers...
I have the same problem in ML 320 model 98...Brake light on with beeping sound while driving etc...
My advise for all of you is to through this piece of junk in the junk yard...this will relief you from this headache and much more coming headache in the future....
From day one i bought this car and problems are showing one after the other as if the parts of this car are not compatible with each other.
ML 320 Model 1998 is the most UNRELIABLE car ever.
I have the same problem in ML 320 model 98...Brake light on with beeping sound while driving etc...
My advise for all of you is to through this piece of junk in the junk yard...this will relief you from this headache and much more coming headache in the future....
From day one i bought this car and problems are showing one after the other as if the parts of this car are not compatible with each other.
ML 320 Model 1998 is the most UNRELIABLE car ever.
10-11-2019, 08:17 PM
#109
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2000 ML 320
Hi,
I'd like an opinion on this diagnosis. I have this issue on my ML320 and I've finally got a code to work with. I've read through the thread and I've been doing some research on other forums online.
The brake lights came on once in July, but didn't repeat until September. Now it's happened about 5 times since then, intermittently. The brake lights (BAS/ESP, ETS, ABS, emergency brake) come on after I've been driving around 5-10 minutes, along with the emergency brake alarm, which is quiet when not in motion. It's not the same time interval each time, but it's never taken longer than about 5 miles or 10 minutes to trigger. Many times I drive and the lights never come on. Sometimes it happens when driving straight, turning, or idling. There is nothing different about how the car drives when the lights come on. Everything else seems normal. When I turn off the car, and turn back on, it's back to normal.
A few weeks ago I left it at my MB-BMW indie mechanic to diagnose. The lights had come on for me 3 days in a row, so I figured it was bad enough to check. He explained to me how difficult this was to diagnose, and how the issues range from cheap sensors to the ABS computer. He was not about to sell me a $2k part that wasn't going to fix it. (Thank god I have an honest mechanic.) After 5 days he couldn't get the lights to trigger, of course! He said there were some stored codes, but they didn't point to anything specific he could work with. He said he needed the active codes. I just took it home and paid the cost of a rental car for a week, which sucks but it could be worse.
Two weeks later, it finally happened again, on a Friday at 4:30pm. Unfortunately for me, I live 5 minutes from the MB dealership and 30 miles from this good mechanic, so I had no choice but go to the dealer. While still on, they ran the code. They told me it was C1300 - A7/3y6, the front left ESP pump not holding pressure. This is the only code they gave me. They told me the part would be $1672 + tax, and with labor the repair would be $2400. Amazingly, they didn't charge me for the scan. My plan is to call my mechanic and get his opinion. I have another MB mechanic out of state, who keeps parts and maybe, miraculously, owns one. Of course it's a weekend, so I won't be able to contact them until Monday.
Do you all think I should have the mechanic check around for electrical issues in that area of the car, or do you think this ESP pump is probably what the error code says? Honestly, I can't find much about it online. What's the worst case scenario if I don't fix it at all? I know ESP is good to have, but optional. I'm a careful driver. I'm not in a financial situation to afford a car payment, so if I knew that under $2000 would fix it, I'd consider the repair. But on the other hand, it's 20 years old and 163k miles. I'd really appreciate any advice.
I am not mechanic, otherwise I'd be pulling this thing apart to check it myself. By the way, we have owned this car since about 2002, so we pretty much know all the repairs that have been done do it.
I'd like an opinion on this diagnosis. I have this issue on my ML320 and I've finally got a code to work with. I've read through the thread and I've been doing some research on other forums online.
The brake lights came on once in July, but didn't repeat until September. Now it's happened about 5 times since then, intermittently. The brake lights (BAS/ESP, ETS, ABS, emergency brake) come on after I've been driving around 5-10 minutes, along with the emergency brake alarm, which is quiet when not in motion. It's not the same time interval each time, but it's never taken longer than about 5 miles or 10 minutes to trigger. Many times I drive and the lights never come on. Sometimes it happens when driving straight, turning, or idling. There is nothing different about how the car drives when the lights come on. Everything else seems normal. When I turn off the car, and turn back on, it's back to normal.
A few weeks ago I left it at my MB-BMW indie mechanic to diagnose. The lights had come on for me 3 days in a row, so I figured it was bad enough to check. He explained to me how difficult this was to diagnose, and how the issues range from cheap sensors to the ABS computer. He was not about to sell me a $2k part that wasn't going to fix it. (Thank god I have an honest mechanic.) After 5 days he couldn't get the lights to trigger, of course! He said there were some stored codes, but they didn't point to anything specific he could work with. He said he needed the active codes. I just took it home and paid the cost of a rental car for a week, which sucks but it could be worse.
Two weeks later, it finally happened again, on a Friday at 4:30pm. Unfortunately for me, I live 5 minutes from the MB dealership and 30 miles from this good mechanic, so I had no choice but go to the dealer. While still on, they ran the code. They told me it was C1300 - A7/3y6, the front left ESP pump not holding pressure. This is the only code they gave me. They told me the part would be $1672 + tax, and with labor the repair would be $2400. Amazingly, they didn't charge me for the scan. My plan is to call my mechanic and get his opinion. I have another MB mechanic out of state, who keeps parts and maybe, miraculously, owns one. Of course it's a weekend, so I won't be able to contact them until Monday.
Do you all think I should have the mechanic check around for electrical issues in that area of the car, or do you think this ESP pump is probably what the error code says? Honestly, I can't find much about it online. What's the worst case scenario if I don't fix it at all? I know ESP is good to have, but optional. I'm a careful driver. I'm not in a financial situation to afford a car payment, so if I knew that under $2000 would fix it, I'd consider the repair. But on the other hand, it's 20 years old and 163k miles. I'd really appreciate any advice.
I am not mechanic, otherwise I'd be pulling this thing apart to check it myself. By the way, we have owned this car since about 2002, so we pretty much know all the repairs that have been done do it.
Last edited by Benz00; 10-11-2019 at 08:19 PM. Reason: added one minor detail
10-11-2019, 08:45 PM
#110
Super Member
The life of the ABS pump is about 200k miles or so. After that, it will throw error codes as the DC motor brushes wear out.
You can get a rebuilt ABS unit (which includes the pump, ABS control unit & solenoids) for about $500 & it would be $350ish in labor to install.
You do not need $1500+ of new parts on such an old car. Rebuilt parts will work just fine unless you get unlucky.
https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/
i bought a rebuilt ABS unit from this place last year for my 2000 ML320. No problems so far after 15,000 miles of driving.
You can get a rebuilt ABS unit (which includes the pump, ABS control unit & solenoids) for about $500 & it would be $350ish in labor to install.
You do not need $1500+ of new parts on such an old car. Rebuilt parts will work just fine unless you get unlucky.
https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/
i bought a rebuilt ABS unit from this place last year for my 2000 ML320. No problems so far after 15,000 miles of driving.
Last edited by mihir_d; 10-11-2019 at 08:48 PM.
10-11-2019, 08:51 PM
#111
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2000 ML 320
The life of the ABS pump is about 200k miles or so. After that, it will throw error codes as the DC motor brushes wear out.
You can get a rebuilt ABS unit (which includes the pump, ABS control unit & solenoids) for about $500 & it would be $350ish in labor to install.
You do not need $1500+ of new parts on such an old car. Rebuilt parts will work just fine unless you get unlucky.
You can get a rebuilt ABS unit (which includes the pump, ABS control unit & solenoids) for about $500 & it would be $350ish in labor to install.
You do not need $1500+ of new parts on such an old car. Rebuilt parts will work just fine unless you get unlucky.
And I have about 165k miles.
10-11-2019, 09:25 PM
#112
Super Member
There is no ESP pump. It is an ABS pump. The ABS pump, solenoids & control module are a single piece unit. You could have solenoids sticking as well, especially if you haven’t been replacing brake fluid at regular intervals.
Past 150k miles, this unit could need a service at any time.
As far as other electrical issues go, the fuse panel also seems to be building up oxidation/resistance by now. I had to replace my fuse panel as well, at a later time, but my BAS/ESP lights were not related to the fuse panel. If your mechanic is sure, that the problems are coming from the Brake Module, you can replace the whole unit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123917621403
You will find these units listed for around $250 on eBay. A professionally rebuilt unit is a better bet - it will come with warranty & all wear & tear items would have been replaced.
Past 150k miles, this unit could need a service at any time.
As far as other electrical issues go, the fuse panel also seems to be building up oxidation/resistance by now. I had to replace my fuse panel as well, at a later time, but my BAS/ESP lights were not related to the fuse panel. If your mechanic is sure, that the problems are coming from the Brake Module, you can replace the whole unit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123917621403
You will find these units listed for around $250 on eBay. A professionally rebuilt unit is a better bet - it will come with warranty & all wear & tear items would have been replaced.
Last edited by mihir_d; 10-11-2019 at 09:31 PM.
10-12-2019, 11:20 AM
#113
MBWorld Fanatic!
Benz00, Welcome. 
A couple of comments before relying on the MB diagnosis (btw, they gave you a printout to confirm the error code, right?):
1) You have not mentioned if you have replaced your brake switch. This is a cheap part you can DIY.
2) The other issue I would check is the ground wires under the headlights.
A couple of comments before relying on the MB diagnosis (btw, they gave you a printout to confirm the error code, right?):
1) You have not mentioned if you have replaced your brake switch. This is a cheap part you can DIY.
2) The other issue I would check is the ground wires under the headlights.
10-12-2019, 02:58 PM
#114
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2000 ML 320
There is no ESP pump. It is an ABS pump. The ABS pump, solenoids & control module are a single piece unit. You could have solenoids sticking as well, especially if you haven’t been replacing brake fluid at regular intervals.
Past 150k miles, this unit could need a service at any time.
As far as other electrical issues go, the fuse panel also seems to be building up oxidation/resistance by now. I had to replace my fuse panel as well, at a later time, but my BAS/ESP lights were not related to the fuse panel. If your mechanic is sure, that the problems are coming from the Brake Module, you can replace the whole unit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123917621403
You will find these units listed for around $250 on eBay. A professionally rebuilt unit is a better bet - it will come with warranty & all wear & tear items would have been replaced.
Past 150k miles, this unit could need a service at any time.
As far as other electrical issues go, the fuse panel also seems to be building up oxidation/resistance by now. I had to replace my fuse panel as well, at a later time, but my BAS/ESP lights were not related to the fuse panel. If your mechanic is sure, that the problems are coming from the Brake Module, you can replace the whole unit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123917621403
You will find these units listed for around $250 on eBay. A professionally rebuilt unit is a better bet - it will come with warranty & all wear & tear items would have been replaced.
Is it possible to just service the solenoids and not replace the unit?
10-12-2019, 03:09 PM
#115
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Benz00, Welcome.
A couple of comments before relying on the MB diagnosis (btw, they gave you a printout to confirm the error code, right?):
1) You have not mentioned if you have replaced your brake switch. This is a cheap part you can DIY.
2) The other issue I would check is the ground wires under the headlights.
A couple of comments before relying on the MB diagnosis (btw, they gave you a printout to confirm the error code, right?):
1) You have not mentioned if you have replaced your brake switch. This is a cheap part you can DIY.
2) The other issue I would check is the ground wires under the headlights.
Ok. I'll have him check the wires under the headlights too. I've never replaced a "brake switch" as far as I know. We have replaced a brake lamp switch ("stop light switch") that was making the BAS light come on. That was a under a recall, but according to my records it's been replaced 4 times over the years, most recently in 2015. This is a lot more than the BAS light.
10-12-2019, 03:37 PM
#116
MBWorld Fanatic!
They didn't print it out, they wrote it down when I told them I had already taken it to a mechanic who couldn't trigger the lights and read the code. Of course their first response was, "Your mechanic doesn't have the right code reader, because this one is expensive." Oh please. He offered to read the brake computer codes himself, if I could drive it 30 miles with the warning lights on. I said, "Yes he does, but the lights were off." Honestly, I felt like they were trying to keep it off the record. They didn't even charge me for the scan, and the service rep didn't create a ticket for my visit. He just printed out the estimated parts and labor, and wrote down on it the error code that the tech told him, and explained to me what the ESP did. I hope they didn't lie about it, since I'm a young woman and I guess they think I'm an idiot, but since they didn't charge me, I'm no worse for wear. Maybe next time I can actually get it to the mechanic and he can verify the active codes.
Ok. I'll have him check the wires under the headlights too. I've never replaced a "brake switch" as far as I know. We have replaced a brake lamp switch ("stop light switch") that was making the BAS light come on. That was a under a recall, but according to my records it's been replaced 4 times over the years, most recently in 2015. This is a lot more than the BAS light.
Ok. I'll have him check the wires under the headlights too. I've never replaced a "brake switch" as far as I know. We have replaced a brake lamp switch ("stop light switch") that was making the BAS light come on. That was a under a recall, but according to my records it's been replaced 4 times over the years, most recently in 2015. This is a lot more than the BAS light.
Chicken scratch from a stealership means nothing unless it's printed out for the record.
They dont lie, however they are more than willing to have to spend $$$ on "their findings" because it suits them to justify their $$$ scanners and costs to operate.
Not sure if you have reviewed this in your research. This may be related to your issues regarding the grounding:
10-12-2019, 03:58 PM
#117
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Sorry, yes, I was referring to the brake light switch (just above your brake pedal), which looks like you have done....several times....which is interesting (never heard of the BLS getting replaced so many times in a w163)
Chicken scratch from a stealership means nothing unless it's printed out for the record.
They dont lie, however they are more than willing to have to spend $$$ on "their findings" because it suits them to justify their $$$ scanners and costs to operate.
Not sure if you have reviewed this in your research. This may be related to your issues regarding the grounding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DPP6S74tjY
Chicken scratch from a stealership means nothing unless it's printed out for the record.
They dont lie, however they are more than willing to have to spend $$$ on "their findings" because it suits them to justify their $$$ scanners and costs to operate.
Not sure if you have reviewed this in your research. This may be related to your issues regarding the grounding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DPP6S74tjY
I'm always having electrical issues on this car. Either the charger shorts out when someone installs a new part, or a switch goes out, or the seat button doesn't work. It's hard to complain when it still gets me to work, but it is really annoying.
"No brake lights!" Good video. I will call around and get some second and third opinions. I might just have to dig around under the hood myself. I saw a post on another forum where a man said that he dealt with the brake light issue for eight years, and eventually discovered that something behind the left front fender was coated in dust and grease. When he cleaned the electrical contacts off, the warning lights went away.
10-12-2019, 04:33 PM
#118
Super Member
I asked my mom about the BLS (we have swapped this car back and forth over the years). She said that the European mechanic who replaced it the last time said the switches were cheap pieces of plastic crap, and the dealership might have given us a replacement that was of lesser quality. Anyway it hasn't broken since.
I'm always having electrical issues on this car. Either the charger shorts out when someone installs a new part, or a switch goes out, or the seat button doesn't work. It's hard to complain when it still gets me to work, but it is really annoying.
"No brake lights!" Good video. I will call around and get some second and third opinions. I might just have to dig around under the hood myself. I saw a post on another forum where a man said that he dealt with the brake light issue for eight years, and eventually discovered that something behind the left front fender was coated in dust and grease. When he cleaned the electrical contacts off, the warning lights went away.
I'm always having electrical issues on this car. Either the charger shorts out when someone installs a new part, or a switch goes out, or the seat button doesn't work. It's hard to complain when it still gets me to work, but it is really annoying.
"No brake lights!" Good video. I will call around and get some second and third opinions. I might just have to dig around under the hood myself. I saw a post on another forum where a man said that he dealt with the brake light issue for eight years, and eventually discovered that something behind the left front fender was coated in dust and grease. When he cleaned the electrical contacts off, the warning lights went away.
