art_arev

Russel, your tranny is in electrical limp mode. Your tranny has shut down hence all this CAN codes stored.
Firstly, I would check the pilot bushing/13 pin connector for leaks, then the ETC module for oil. If necessary the pilot bushing/13 pin connector must be changed. The ETC module is easy to open & to check for traces of oil. Cleaning it putting it back together normally does the trick.
Then you will need a pro level scanner to clear the codes in ETC & ECM & ESP modules.

Russell101

Update: @art_arev - thanks for your reply. I took your notes to a mechanic, as well as the codes I was having. He went in under the dash and found the ETS connectors and one of the wires wasn't snug into it. He believes that wire was loose and he connected it again, and reset the lights. We are hopeful that this will correct the communication issue my car's system was having. Just did this today, so we'll see.

He also said that if the ETC module was full of oil, there would be oil dripping where my pedals are in the car because it is directly above there under the steering wheel, so that wasn;t the case for me.

Maj. Dundee

Your mechanic is absolutely wrong. First of all, transmission oil on its own is not conductive, but it might and will prevent connectivity between the electrical connector and the ETC Control Module.

Remove the cover under the driver's side and look up and to the right and you will see the ETC Module. Simply pull it out from the spring clips and inspect the harness for the presence of oil.

mihir_d

My 2000 ML320 (having just crossed 200K miles last month) started exhibiting the symptom of intermittent BAS/ETS/ABS lights flickering on and off at random times.

Over time, I started to notice a definite jerking (as if something was seizing up) in the engine drive bay whenever those lights came on, making me feel certain, it was most likely the ABS pump malfunctioning, which resides on the driver side of the engine bay.

My truck is somewhat prone to relay failures, especially in the summer months, so my immediate intuition was the ABS pump relay. I swapped it out today and so far, the problem seems to have disappeared.

It seems to me, the relay was causing the ABS pump to stop running intermittently (dropping power to it), causing that mild seizing sensation whenever those lights came on.

Hope, this helps others who are experiencing this problem.

CLLARK1

I scanned my 01 ML430 ABS BASS ESP ECT lights on.My scanner was able to read all modules except ABS.For ABS received message unable to establish communications with module.Bad ABS module?

Reply2me

I have had the intermittent problem of the lights going on, my ABS pump buzzing loudly, vibration of the brake pedal, etc. for several years. I would like to try changing the K25 relay to see if this will fix the problem. Major Dundee, in previous threads on this issue, suggested buying a Tyco, Bosch, or Hella part. However I could not find the part online by ANY manufacturer at Autohaus. Only Rock Auto Parts seems to have the relay, but does not mention the manufacturer. Other vendors mention a more or less universal relay.

My questions:

1. Does anyone know of another vendor that might have an OEM ABS pump relay?

2. Would a "universal" relay be as good as a one designed for, and designated as, a K25 ABS pump relay?

Thanks!

Anne

CLLARK1

Part 0025422619# or A0025422619 Plenty of them on ebay hella
or mb

CLLARK1

The reason they are referred to as universal relay is that they are used in more than one circuit.Not likely the relay.The symptoms you are describing sounds like the ABS system is being activated.This should only happen in slick road conditions or panic stop.The fact that it is activating would indicate the relay is working.Unless when you turn on the key you can hear the abs motor run constantly.It should run for a few seconds then shut off.If it does not shut off it will run down your battery.

Maj. Dundee

[QUOTE=Reply2me;6642844] Major Dundee, in previous threads on this issue, suggested buying a Tyco, Bosch, or Hella part. However I could not find the part online by ANY manufacturer at Autohaus. /QUOTE]

You didn't look hard enough.

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0025422619

Reply2me

Thank you both for your replies. Perhaps my initial search did not return results because I searched for an ABS pump K25 relay for my specific car model. At any rate, I will purchase one and hope that it will resolve the problem.

As I mentioned in my initial post, the problem is intermittent. It seems to exhibit when the temperature is below 60 degrees F. It has, at times, caused the pump to continue to whir for hours after the car has been turned off. Luckily, it has not resulted in a battery failure thus far. While the problem has not occurred since last Feb., I have had some indications that it may present in the near future. This is due to a slight "pulling noise" that I hear as I depress the gas pedal while driving the first 100 feet or so after turning on the ignition. Should it not work, I may try some of the other low-cost approaches mentioned in other threads, such as the soldering joints.

This forum is a wonderful resource.

Thank you, again.

Reply2me

The part seems to have worked!

The problem occurred last week. I had the box with the replacement relay in the car. A local shop installed it for me. The ABS motor stopped whirring.

Time will tell if the part is a permanent fix. However, I was delighted that the car started functioning properly again.

I have another issue with the ML320. The A/C is not functioning. A mechanic confirmed that the aux. fans in front of the radiator are not working. A review of information on different forums indicate that the fans tend to blow the #44 fuse. Also, the problem may relate to the switch, the #26 relay, or the blower motor.

I would like to start with the least expensive possible fixes first--the fuse and the relay.

My questions:

- Should I order the same relay replacement part for the #26 relay as I did for the #25 relay?

- Would AutoHaus p/n 30AMPATC Littlefuse (30 amps) be the correct replacement for the #44 fuse?

Many thanks, in advance. As a gal with no knowledge of auto mechanics, your comments are invaluable.

Maj. Dundee

Reply2me, please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP.

Maj. Dundee

First of all, if you have an additional problem from the original one, you should open up a new thread on that matter.

Secondly, the A/C compressor does not work off of a fuse and or relay. It is a direct feed. Since there are different possibilities from where the feed comes from, we won't know unitl you Update Your Profile with the year and open a separate thread.

mihir_d

I conclusively tracked down my intermittent BAS ESP/4ETS lights flashing and Brake Malfucntion beep/Transmission in Limp mode issues to

F22 : 15A : Traction control/cruise control/transmission/instrument cluster
F27 : 40Amp : ABS Hydraulic Unit

F22 for sure was oxidized..and I guess, it would have built up higher resistance causing intermittent low voltage error codes on Pin 87 of the ABS relay..

Problem has completely disappeared after replacing the 2 fuses.

I would advice all on watching out for these fuses on aging MLs...they may be intact, but their resistance parameters could have changed significantly after all these years..

Sonny Keomany

What codes did your mechanic pulled when getting diagnostic?

boogiecool

my ml430 is doing the same every 7.45 mins it throws up the warning lights and drops the trans into limp mode ,turn of ignition and all again all good until the next 7.45 mins does anybody have a repair or answer to this problem please .

Maj. Dundee

Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year.

Maj. Dundee

What warning light? Be specific.

boogiecool

BAS/ESP, 4-ETS+, ABS, and Brake Lights all come on

Maj. Dundee

I asked you to update your profile and you completely disregarded that request.

boogiecool

if you would care to look more thoroughly you will find i had updated my profile two days ago .i find your attitude to be somewhat aggressive and am terminating any future communications with you forthwith
.

boogiecool

and if i dont wish to update my profile that is my right.

Maj. Dundee

Then you go it alone and that is my right.

boogiecool

tosser

Maj. Dundee

Now be honest, is your real name Johnny Reddick?