Here is the listing for the booster for your year and model.
They must have changed the numbers and you cannot refer to the old number.
As long as the booster you bought came from a 2000+ ML there shouldn't be a problem.
Of course disconnect the Master Cylinder from the booster, but do not disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder. The booster can be removed with a little finesse and it will save you from bleeding the brakes.
Thanks very much for taking the time out to help here. I think I'm going to source a replacement direct from a diesel ML just to be absolutely certain its like for like. I made a call to an MB parts specialist in the UK and they seemed to have the same result of not being able to cross reference older parts details.
I repaired this seal in my ML 270 and the leak has stopped. The performance improved dramatically as the turbo was effected from the lower vacuum that was available prior to the repair. I trust the repair will work for a while.
I tried to work through the manufacturers of the boosters in USA. My vehicle is a US build.
To this time I can drill down far enough within the company but I came to a brick wall for simple part. Use a fair proportion of rubber grease on assembly and it may help on the installation as well as help seal- just take your time! Greg
Mine was also built in the US (I think they all were, weren't they?)I have a place here that's prepared to remanufacture the booster, with a 1 year warranty, for about 220USD. Going to keep that option in reserve, but will try the patches first
Just an update, I pulled the booster out on wednesday evening and dropped it at a brake and clutch centre on Thursday. Picked it up again yesterday afternoon and reinstalled it - leak gone. Cost me about USD330 to do, with a 1 year warranty. I think that's a pretty good compromise, considering a new unit here is USD880 ...
Was able to remove it without disconnecting the master cylinder
Sorry to resurrect this again but I've been reading the posts and I'm still not entirely sure what to try first. Is it really viable to try a temporary solution until I can afford a new brake booster? If so, does someone have a video guide or something like that somewhere?