Maj. Dundee

Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE in USER CP to include the year and model of the ML.

Maj. Dundee

As to the A/C problem I don't believe that it is an AAM problem. Yes, the AAM does activate the compressor but only if a few things are in place and all values are correct.

The biggest one is not having enough refrigerant. If there isn't the compressor will never turn on.

Before you send away for an AAM (don't do it) the refrigerant issue must be addressed.

outbackjackinoz

HI MD,

I think I have done the changes in my User CP.

We have put in about 400 odd grams, enough for A/C to start to work according to A/C specialist. Are you saying you need to fill it up to 700 odd first?

It has been to a MB dealer and after spending over 700 with them, they diagnosed the AAM faulty. The fan doesnt work and there is no 12v to the compressor.

I guess we will know after Xmas. We cant use the car, we live in the tropics, the car is to hot to drive around. It rains in the afternoon and is really humid at the same time.

outbackjackinoz

OK time for a update........

AAM arrived and is installed. A/C and Thermo Fans now run. A/C is back and running.

BAS/ESP Light is still on. Calipers/brakes been checked.

MB dealer could not clear following codes and said it would take several more hours to fault find.

Here are the codes. I will scan and upload actual print out tommorrow.

P2203-001 ESP No Communication
P2203-032 ESP Request from control module ESP is implausible
C1140-008 Component N49 (Steering angle sensor) is not initialized
C1529 The precharging of control module ESP is not available. Read Fault memory of control module BAS
C1000-033 N48 (BAS Control Module) , Soleniod Valve : -,+, circuit 30:-//-
B1040-001 CAN Bus: Fault in communication: ESP / ETS if there is no malfuction, ignore this fault.
B1367 CAB Bus: Fault in communication: AAM on internal CAN

outbackjackinoz

Also Brake switch was replaced under recall.

DrX

Thanks for the update - excellent news in the NT summer. RTpartsco came through - can you tell us the shipping cost?

As for the $700 you spent on diagnosis, that wasn't a complete waste of money.

Regarding the ESP/BAS warning light, the codes are likely caused by one faulty part. C1000 means you need a new ESP/BAS control module. Refer to this diagnostic manual: useful-w163-documents-10.4-esp-diagnostic-manual.pdf

outbackjackinoz

Freight was 70 dollars, which I didnt think was too bad.

I got the part with in 7 days, which is quicker than getting a part from down south.

Attached is the Fault code report.

I do notice all faults are listed as stored and not current??

However dealer did say he cleared the codes and these are the ones that came back. Also light is still on.

I noticed that most of the software versions are from when the car was built. Can they update the software? I know other makes of cars can have there software updated for various things.

Going to try and find part number and price on ESP/BAS control module, hoping its not to expensive.

DrX

The part number is right there on your printout - 163 545 43 32.

New you're looking at around $700, or you can risk a used one from ebay for around $200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-W163-Ml320-270CDI-Abs-4Esp-Computer-1635454332-350-400-430-500-55-AMG-/251403128729?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a88cb4f99&vxp=mtr
Forget about the software versions. Of course they're from 1999 or earlier, and they've been working fine for 14 years.

outbackjackinoz

OK thanks, didnt think to look at print out for part number, blonde moment on my behalf...........


I dont think I would bother with a 2nd hand unit. I will wait for a few weeks until funds recover and order a new one.

outbackjackinoz

OK still in a love/hate relationship with my ML270.

Today transmission played up. When I took off for the first time this morning, the transmission was slipping badly. The indicator on the dash was registering N, not D, even though it was selected. It still drove, but was like a manual car with the clutch slipping, after a few minutes and selecting between D and N, it came good for the rest of the day.

I did about 100 kms today and it used about 2.5 litres of coolant. I notice the coolant tank hose clamps are lose, I tried to tighten them, but they are maxed out.

The thermo fan sounds like a jet plane, although temp never went much above
80 degrees. The fan noise was really loud, more than I thought I have many other cars.
A/C is also still working, however its not that cool. So will need to check it out.

On matters of trim etc, I havent noticed before, but the two black panels behind the rear qaurter windows is cracked??

As I have said, very much love/hate relationship at the moment..........

DrX

Now you know why the previous owner left it in his shed.

2.5 L is a big coolant leak. You should be able to see it dripping out.

From your first photos, the black trim panels don't look cracked. Perhaps you mean they're peeling, which everybody's do. Search on "D-pillar covers" for solutions.

outbackjackinoz

I never noticed the D pillars cracked until yesterday in a public car park, I wonder if someone try to break in as I had the windows open.

Found the water leak, it is the recovery bottle hose connections, so need to order a new one.

Still have the starting issue and more concerning a transmission fault.

Transmission fault only happens first time running.

It will stay in N or R on the dash even when D is selected, It will drive forward but not the best, after about a few minutes, it all comes good and then doesnt play up at all.

So I am hoping that a transmission fluid change out will help.....

Jury is still out. I love the car, think if I can sort these issues out, then I should get a good run. Just dont have a lot of money at the moment to tip in to it.

outbackjackinoz

If I had a shed, I would park it there and wait until I have the time and money. I am in the process of building a house on a greenfield site and living in a caravan until we finish building. Hence reason time and money is a factor.

I think some of the problems is due to sitting around a lot and others are due to age etc.

I found a reciept in the car for a service in 2010, it has done 8000kms since then. Nothing mentioned on the service report except that brakes where 50 percent.

DrX

This thread should help explain your starting problems.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...-no-start.html

The next thing to spend money on is a new battery. 11.67 V is too low. I use and recommend the Bosch S4 60038. (Shop around - target price is under AU$250)

outbackjackinoz

Thanks for the reply. It does have a new battery fitted. It had a N70Z fitted, but because it was sitting around for 12 months, I thought of replacing it, thinking it may be causing the fault.

I think for memory the new battery is DIN 6 or 7 . Also has new alternator fitted about 12 months ago.

I did notice on the print out the battery voltage was 11.9 odd.....

I will get a multi meter on it later and see what it is now.

DrX

If it's DIN65 then you need to replace it with a DIN85. The OE battery can deliver 760 A, but the DIN65 can probably only manage under 600 A.

outbackjackinoz

OK thanks, bigger problem I have at the moment is the coolant recovery tank.

The pipe at the top is broken. I need to find one fast....... Being in Darwin doesnt give me any options, looks like another week or so off the road.

Then more testing with it.

On another note today, installed an aftermarket stereo today, cant believe how good the factory speaker system sounds being 14 years old now.........

outbackjackinoz

OK Battery specs are

Volts : 12
CCA : 680
RC: 140
AH: 140
Length : 315
Width : 175
Height : 190


Seems I have already brought it and they didnt have the right one, I will just have to wait until I sort out other things first.

Recovery tank is main thing at the moment.

outbackjackinoz

OK Update.

Got new recovery tank. So will see if it uses any coolant now. Apperantly ML`s have a habit of breaking the plastic nipples on the recovery tank.

I rang battery place and they now have DIN88 in stock. So going there tommorrow to see if we can sort something out.

So another week of trails to come and see how we go.

Still have the ESP/BAS warning light come on after a minute or two of driving. But will sort that later.

Also will start to order parts for a transmission service. I am going to swap out conductor plate, the plug that leaks oil and also order trans dip stick. Will be another 3 or 4 weeks at least before I can do that. But transmission fluid is 14 yo, nearly old enough to vote. So shouldnt hurt it.

outbackjackinoz

Not sure if others have seen this link before.

http://www.transdetail.ru/assets/site/files/722.6.pdf

Pretty handy document

outbackjackinoz

Well appears I have a blown head or head gasket.......

I am still using 2,5 litres for around 60 kms. Engine runs fine and I cannot find any leaks at all. All I can put it down to is a blown head.

Also found the electric coolant pump wasnt working.

Now I am over it, its worth nothing to no one. Looks like a bon fire is coming up......

DrX

I reckon the previous owner had a coolant leak (at the broken reserve tank) and didn't bother to fix it, just as he neglected to fix the A/C & the ESP. He let the engine overheat and blew the gasket.

That would explain why it takes 15 goes to start it - pushing out a cylinderful of coolant. It's still drivable, so you could just keep topping it up until you can afford to repair the head gasket. Maybe you could DIY and use a gasket-in-a-tube product.

outbackjackinoz

I didnt have a coolant leak/loss when I first got it. I think with mechanics/dealers/myself tinkering under the bonnet may have caused some of the issue with the recovery tank.

Starting problem has seem to fix itself, as well as the transmission. Both havent been a problem for the last few days. However they could reappear.


Not sure if I can drive it around with the heater pump broken. I am going to replace cap in the vain hope it may be the cause.

I will also get a pressure check done, something not really done yet.

But I am still thinking it may be the head, hope I am wrong.

Not sure if a sprinter head will do, but about 1500 for aftermarket one.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Armada-Re...item53fc76abbe

Need to find a service manual to see whats involved in swapping a head over.

art_arev

Jack its not the head that needs replacing, its the head gasket. It will cost probably a couple of hundred bucks. Or try what was suggested to you previously & use gasket in a tube

outbackjackinoz

OK used a gasket in a tube. It was a failure......

Car still uses about 3 litres of water per 60 kms........

No loss of power, no smell of coolant, coolant looks the same etc.

I have noticed when you rev the engine, the bottom radaitor hose sucks in flat??????

Still have starting issue and still have transmission issue first thing in the morning.

Also the roof lining for the sunroof is falling down.....

So still stuck with it.