miguel446

EDIT: This question is for the LOWER FRONT control arms.


Hi gang,

At 261,000 miles, my w163 (1999 ML320) front lower control arm ball joints are going(are gone!). They squeak like crazy and when I inspected them, the boots were torn. I've replaced the upper control arms, steering ball joints, and shocks and it's time to address the lower ball joints.

Here is my question:

Can the ball joints from the factory control arm be pressed and replaced?

I assumed they could and read numerous cases of individuals having done so, though admittedly, many had trouble pressing the old joints out and in.

I ordered new ball joints from autohauosaz and they arrive tomorrow. Originally, I planned to do the job myself, but growing concerned about the need for a press, I called a couple of local independents. The first one I called, said no problem, $360 if I supply the parts. The second told me, 'sorry, allparts says you have to replace the entire lower control arm and that the ball joints are only replaceable on aftermarket control arms."

While $360 is a bit steep, I can see the justification for the amount of labor required. However, i am concerned about getting differing opinions from two mechanics. Neither of which specialize in MB.

Advice would be appreciated.

Plutoe

Post you VIN!!

miguel446

Last 7 of my VIN: A073402

Plutoe

I am not a dealer---I need the full VIN!!

miguel446

Cool, cool Plutoe. What good is the VIN in this case?

4JGAB54E7XA073402

Plutoe

With a complete VIN I can look at the parts\removal documents for your specific car. In your case the ball joint is not sold seperatly by MB you have to purchase the R and L upper wishbone which has the joint---Then when you look at the removal docs the joint is pressed out,but not out of the wishbone.

I would say that the gent that referenced Alldata does work per factory or equal instructions---I have no idea how the other polak ***** does his finger in the wind work----try polak ***** and at best if he screws up your front end you spend another 800 doing the job by the book!!

miguel446

Ahhhh. Cool. Excellent points.

One issue: you mention the upper control arms.

My problem is with the LOWER ball joint. I already replaced upper control arms.

Thanks Plutoe. Good to know in any case.

Maj. Dundee

miguel, you do not need a press to remove and install the lower ball joints, nor do you need to remove the lower control arm.

What make/brand ball joint did you buy?

miguel446

Gotta say, Maj Dundee, that's kind of EXACTLY what I wanted to hear.

I picked up the Lemfoerder edition, skipping the Myle's because of some complaints that they were too tight of a fit.

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1633300135lem

Maj. Dundee

Before you do anything, you must find the proper 4 prong wrench that fits into the Lemforder locking nut. There are different wrenches for different ball joint manufacturers.

Disconnect the outer tie rod end using heavy ball peen hammer.

Disconnect all wiring attached to steering knuckle.

Disconnect upper ball joint using ball peen hammer.

Dislodge front axle shaft from steering knuckle; do not remove shaft.

Disconnect the lower ball joint using ball peen hammer and remove the steering knuckle.

Support the lower control with jack stand or floor jack, and then find a large combination wrench that will fit over the ball joint shaft. Put the closed end of the wrench over the ball joint shaft and strike the shaft and after a few blows, the ball joint will drop out.

Install the revised ball joint with locking nut and torque the nut to specified value (see torque value in supplied pdf.

miguel446

I got it done!

Thanks for your help. My local independent, who told me he had to replace the entire lower control arm, likely was looking at the upper control arm instructions, as they do not press out.

I found the 2.5" 4wd hub socket (what everyone calls this prong socket) at my local O'rielly's for $23. There's absolutely no way to do this job with out an impact. 10 minutes with a pneumatic broke the nut loose.

I did not remove the carrier from the vehicle. Instead I removed everything except the axle and 'jiggled' things around until I got the old joint out and the new joint in.

Torquing the bottom nut (300nm/221ft lbs) is a problem though. I think I'll get it to my local guy and have him torque them for me.

I went ahead and did my brakes while I had everything torn down. Worth the effort, it felt like I got them for free!!

What do you guys think:

Does this now need an alignment? Answered: YES absolutely

I noticed some slight cracking on my axle boots. Should I fool with replacing them (the boots) or just wait for the inevitable fail and install new axles? I think I have about 50,000 miles on this set.

art_arev

I thought you were changing ball joints..........Now you are talking about bearings?

Maj. Dundee

I'm confused too, art.

miguel446

Crack that whip gentlemen!!

Under advisement, I have corrected my mistatement!! 😇