jdanish

You forgot the rear struts/springs , lower coil breaks- hard ride.

screamingflat6

hey,

rattling exhaust heat shields also,,, and a crack has appeared in the rear d-pillar perspex part.

Gaz,,,

Sachmo

Can I put 265/65/17 tires on my 2004 ML 500 without risk of damage to the 4 x 4 drive system.

Muddy Waterous

Problem is a fuel system diaphram. My local mechanic figured this out. It keeps pressure in the fuel system after you shut off the engine, and the fuel pump. The diaphram is rubber and gets leaks which release the pressure in the system. Usually if you turn the key to the position just before starting it will energize the fuel pump and pressurize the system. Give it a good 15-30 seconds and then try to start it. If that works then the diaphram is the problem. My mechanic charge about $450 to replace it, parts and labor. Well worth it. A friend's ML430 had the same issue.

jchell

Great list! And I still like the car? Yes.
I have a drivers side cup holder broken gear. Can anyone help the R&R process to remove for gear replacement?

Natasha-ML320

I Bought a ML320 this week and in the same day my car locked up whilst i was driving had it towed and diagnostic testing - turns to be my alternator. Get the car back driving fine all day yesterday, tonight - ready to go out car starts, shift to D (drive) car moves and now gears are not changing while i driving its like it's stuck in 1st or 2nd gear and sounds like if i accelerate it revs out - can someone kindly help me - im hating my ML320 after 3 days, so not fair.

slik560

Natasha - it sounds like the vehicle is stuck in what is called "limp mode", which is indicative of something being wrong, but the car stays in a low gear to allow you to "limp" home [or to a shop or dealer] to have it checked out. You might do a search on limp mode because I am no expert, but I doubt that a bad alternator would cause this. If you have a good qualified independent shop within reach, take it to them. Otherwise, get it to a dealer because no average mechanic will be familiar enough with the ML to help you.

Sorry that I don't have more information to help you.

Natasha-ML320

Thank you so much for your help. Yes you are spot on! it is on limp mode. I will endevour to research on limp mode! Thanks again! much appreciated. My mechanic had a ML320 as well and he said the same thing i just dont want to fork thousands of dollars, not even 4 days and these issues are bothering me.

slik560

Good luck. It's most unfortunate that you got hit with this so early into ML ownership.

Natasha-ML320

Thanks Kev!
I will let u know tomorrow what happens - very unfortunate -

pkvoss

Yes, as long as all 4 tires are the same size.

Natasha-ML320

So i have replaced my Electrics kit and everything seemed to be fine. then after i drive out of the mechanics my battery dies on me. i call and get a new battery installed and everything seems to be fine - driving like a dream. the next morning i come to turn my car on and warm it up. as im about to drivie i notice the engine light has re appeared!!!
i got the car rescanned and it showed up speed sensor! what do i do now!! help please!!! i may also mention that there was a small amount of oil on the floor.

gcbmb

Hi everyone, just joining.

This list is awesome. thanks for everyone that helped it.

will be checking one 1998 320 this week. One owner, just out of the extended warranty, or so he says.
the carfax shows

130k miles, FAILED EMISSION INSPECTION
130K+-100, PASSED EMISSION INSPECTION

should I worry about something specific because of this?

kevina

Thanks for this.
Where do you find the fuel filter on a 2000/01 Ml 320 and how do you get to it???

sdanville

If I recall,
I took out the back seat, there was what looked like a paint can lid, I popped that off and there was the fuel pump. If it is the newer style it has easy pop off connections, it cracked me up that Mercedes has easy pop off connections on an item you replace once every 100,000 miles. It would be easier if the seat legs had easy pop off releases.

rsfortier

Yes you can I have run that size for two years now work great in town and on interstate.

ccweems

"Catalytic converters break in half, or rattle. Replacement required. Must remove torsion bars and reset ride hieght after replacement." Sounds expensive but maybe not.

If the problems above are the result of a bad weld you may be able to save some money by just re-welding the pipe/converter. Evidently the original weld material was not as good as the components and the welds will erode from the inside. I had my driver's side converter break at a weld. Bought an oxygen sensor socket to remove the two sensors and then cranked down the torsion bars (more on that) took the parts to a TIG welder and for $30 he fixed me up. Has lasted for more than 50K / 6 years. Still pass a stringent emissions test.

Removing torsion bars: at first is sounded difficult and dangerous. In fact removing the torsion bars are far easier than removing the coil springs on most cars (especially the ML). I imagined that it would take multiple turns to release/install. Nope its probably like 30 degrees. Suggest that you park car on level surface, rock it side to side to settle the suspension. Find a place on the front outer edge to take a good measurement of the ride height. Take tons of pictures. Mark the head of the bolt and start to unscrew counting the full turns as you go. At a certain point everything gets loose and you can pull the bar out of the socket. Assuming no one messed with the parts you can reassemble and just re-tighten turning the bolt the same number of turns as before. The socket end of the bar is a hex (maybe square on some cars) and you won't have to worry how to index the bar; the right position will be obvious. Attempting to install the bar one flat off will obviously be out. After you have tighten the adjustment screw drive around the block and park in the same place. Your ride height should be the same as before.

Peabody

Thanks for this thread, great list. I just picked up a used 2004 ML 500, on the tail end of a CPO warranty. I'll make sure to run this list against it before the warranty is done!

UncleSkip

I am considering a ML. Has anybody had a good or bad experience with these? Please share.

dpc004

Please tell me some of these are covered by recalls.

tigere

THANKS FOR THE LIST OF COMMON PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS.WOULD YOU PLEASE HAVE ANY SOLUTION TO MY PROBLEM WITH MY ML320,MY HORN JUST STARTED BLOWING ON ITS OWN FROM NOWHERE ONE DAY ,IT WOULDN'T SWITCH OFF UNTIL I PUT THE IGNITION KEY TO START POSITION AND OR WHEN I START THE CAR.

THE ONLY WAY I CAN SWITCH IT OFF NOW IF THE KEY IS NOT IN IS TO TAKE OFF THE HORN FUSE.

THE ALARM/IMMOBILISER STILL WORKS FINE. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP.

I'VE HAD MY ML320 FOR 2YEARS NOW WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS AT ALL.

CLLARK1

I had same problem.Had power at CD changer but did not recognize at front unit.Replaced fuse R. Front kick panel fixed the problem.Also turned off SRS light.

slik560

I got really excited reading this, as I have the same problem - "no CD player installed". BUT, when I removed said kick panel, there was no fuse R. The fuses and relays all have numbers. The list had nothing regarding the radio, changer, or any audio component. What year do you have??

CLLARK1

2001 ML430 I never looked to see what the fuse went to.I just checked the fuses and found two blown.I replaced the blown fuse and my SRS light went out and my CD changer was recognized.

slik560

Understood. Time to get out the flashlight and start pulling fuses. Thanks again.