Hammer Down

My ML's left rear door lock actuator needs to be replaced is this a easy DIY or should I visit the shop?

C230 Sport Coup

Sad to see that no one is this forum seems to have much in the way of mechanical ability?

GateKeeper

I know the Original post is old and the OP has probably forgotten about it, but this is what I found out for my drivers door....

it's expensive, not only the part about 600 bucks, but another 6-7 hundred in labour

the unit is rivited in place and has to be drilled out, then the new one put in place and rivited back in place, or if your doing it yourself I am sure you can use some nuts and bolts to hold it in place.....

I opted to do neither, I just lock the drivers side manually, I open the rear door push the button down, close the rear door, and hit the lock button on the remote, all other doors lock and the the security system activates.....

not the best way, but it's the cheap way.....

I tried to argue with Mercedes this is a security and safety issue and should be covered by them, no dice....either pay or go away......

C230 Sport Coup

My GF's '06 won't lock or unlock the drivers side door, and the
right rear only unlocks. A real PIA. And for such a newish car. My C230 has 212K miles and no problems like she's got. The windows switch panel on the drivers side is toast, the shift arm broke off, and all the air vents fell apart in place. I never seen nothing like it. Even owned FIATS and they didn't do that.
So back to the locks,
Likely disconnect the rear one if it's possible so it doesn't auto unlock but would like to fix drivers side.

Drilling out rivets aint no thang.
I looked up the whole assembly includes other parts beside the actuator, and
it was like $300 + tax and shipping at parts.com

Was really hoping for a pn for actuator only,
Folks on the C forum we got a lot of DIY'er over there, escpecially me.
I hate giving money to dealers when I can pay myself $180 an hour.

Hary Gahtoe

Sad to see people not willing to do proper search and blaming others for their shortcomings.

I've replaced my doorlock and it was a lot less than quoted here and it definitely was NOT riveted in

C230 Sport Coup

If you would please share....
I've had a W203 for many years, and do most of my own work.

So, pulled the door panel off and replaced the window switch.
Thanks Mercedes for not bothering to mention the bolt under the lock/unlock switches in the WIS.

Luckily found it on the web.
Decided to try to get a look at the lock actuator.
Things went south quickly. Of course the window regulator is attached to the plate that bolts to the door...totally different than my 203.
Unbolted the glass, and tried unsuccessfully to get at it, and then
ended up with a major clusterfrack. I removed the bolts holding the glass in place, later realizing they only need to be loosened. Don't remove them. Putting them back in a major PIA.
So, gave up after a while, put it back together, and in the 11th hour, while putting the door panel back on, damn, damaged the cable going to the window switches.
A1645405606. Need to pick up a replacement tomorrow. Crap. Well luckily it shows as being $22 online, which means the local dealer shouldn't want more than $50 for it.
The saga continues, and advise WOULD be appreciated.

GateKeeper

show us the pictures of the work you did.....the door lock, the actuator and so on.....

I only said what was told to me by the service guys at the dealership, so I did not pursue it further, maybe this summer i will pull it apart and have a look for myself....

.

C230 Sport Coup

My GF is happy to have working windows again. Got the cable and reinstalled. $44 at local ripoff dealer.
Fortunately she paid for it despite my f'ing it up. Still cheaper than hiring an MB mechanic at 175 an hour thankfully.

Still haven't done anything on the acutators.
Next need to take the steering column apart without damaging the clock spring to
get the shift arm replaced. Hers just snapped off one day. She swears she didn't use excessive force. Oh and rear brakes which will be easy, Have new Akebono pads and MB OEM disks ready to go.
And then popping out the vents and repairing them. Luckily she saved the bits that fell off. New vents are 250 each list time I check at parts.com
Was going to change the fuel filter till I read up on it...drain the tank? Really? $225 at rmeuropean?
Gawd. Sorry guys, but the 203 is a better car as far as maint and crap breaking goes.

madreg98

Driver door in 2009 ML350 would not lock or unlock with fob or keyless go. All other doors worked correctly. Removed entire assembly and tried the famous "spring replacement". Unfortunately did not fix problem. Decided to buy new assembly. After installing still have the same problem. @#(&*!! Anybody have suggestions before I bring it to the dealer for a scan.

Dennis

Hary Gahtoe

Repairs are easier if taken systematically.
The lock doesn't work. Why ?
Is there power?
Does the actuator motor pulse ?
Does the actuator retract on command ?

This is the same procedure an MB tech would follow.
First they'd check for power. Then look at the actuator function. Is it popping or retracting at all ? Many owners have trouble with the springs but the actuator is working.
Madreg I suspect your switch or wiring is faulty if you replaced your actuator.

I had to replace my door wiring at the same time I replaced my door lock motor. Technically its not even wire. Which was the problem, it's only electronic printed Copper plating sealed in paper thin plastic that had been kinked by someone previously not realizing how fragile it was. When I pulled it off it broke.
Really, the glass shouldn't be an issue. Before you start working on the door roll down the window about 3-4" and tape it to the top of the door frame. You now have access to the track bolts and can remove the track and access the actuator.
Good luck

Hary Gahtoe

Depending on your skill level and patients this could way more than average owners would care to deal with.
You literally gut the entire door workings. The window is hanging by tape and even the exterior door handle must come off. That's if you have Keyless Go. It's wired into the actuator. It took me close to 4 hrs. of careful dismantle and slow re install due to all the systems interconnected to be properly replaced and not messed up and re do it
The new actuator comes with new plastic plugs or locating pins (not rivets)because they are a 2 stage compression and get ruined when you remove.
I went slow and didn't take pictures. I not going to lie I was concerned. This was a VERY intricate and precise rebuild. IF you are careful and thorough it is demanding but do able
Here's a Youtube that helped me

madreg98

Thanks for the input.

Had my dealer scan the car. He says that the code indicates that there is a "short to ground in the driver door". An additional comment was "something is not plugged in all the way". Sooo I am going to disassemble the door again and push all the plugs in.

The fuse, 25amp socket 34 is fine. All plugs look properly connected. Going to try and trace the power line. I get no response via fob, external handle or internal switch. Got to be electrical.

Rg1620

I tried the spring replacement this morning. PITA. Drivers side rear door. I replaced the spring sucessfully despite not having a CD player that would play the 3" cd which contains the instructions. Old spring looked OK but replaced it anyway. Reassembled and..... Same problem. The rest of the doors lock and unlock without issue. This one lock appears to have a weak solinoid. It tries to activate and will even succeed once in twenty try's. All the other lock activate with a sharp click while this one makes a squeaky hum noise for about 2 seconds. Next step is to buy the $300 actuator and repeat this PITA exercise.

C230 Sport Coup

GF's right rear door miraculously started working again.
But the front door is still a no go.
Well, got the rear brakes done,
bearings in diff replaced,
AC vents in the process of being repaired...
things are going in the right direction little by little.

Roncy

Harry is right. I just did rear passenger on my 06ml500. It's a big job for a back yard mechanic took me 5hrs. Now if I had to do it again pretty sure I could do it in under 2. There are no rivits just 3 compression fittings that I drilled out because I replaced the door actuator with one I found on ebay out of an 09 ml for 100 bucks. I think you can access the spring without removing the actuator so no drilling. I used some short bolts with nuts and washers to attach the new one. Turns out mine was just a broken spring though. I had that quick chug chug chug sound in the door. Anyway it works now.

Roncy

A few thought while this is still fresh in my head. I should mention that I did take some pictures but it's difficult to tell what your looking at unless you're in there. The rear door card had 3 torx in it one under tweeter grill that pops out when slid to rear and the others under silver trim, then you can pry out the plastic tabs around the card and pull it off. There are a few good youtube vids that helped including the one Harry linked. Once inside you have to disconnect some wires for switch and speakers and power windows. The window does have to be duct taped up but has to be lowered just slightly once the card is removed so that you can see the " pincher" clasping the bottom of the window through the large access port.don't fully remove pincher torx just loosen. A helper makes that step easier. The actuator is on the back of the module which is essentially a second card within the door that everything is attached to. So that means you have to remove the module to access it and the spring. It's attached with a lot of torx, there are 3 around the latch on the side of the door aswell. When you remove the door handle on the outside of the door leave the 2 torx part way in so that it's easier to reinstall by sliding the module back in place. Another torx is on the edge of the door behind a rubber plug that loosens but does not come out for the door handle. Those 3 torx are smaller then all the rest and the one in the side of the door a flashlight helps to spot it. Then the module should come out so that you can access the actuator. The spring is small and there are a few YouTube video on replacing it. It's a finicky job but doable.

spawnywhippet

I have the left rear door that doesn't unlock on my 08 ML350. I pulled the door panel off and replaced the actuator with a tested good ebay one for $120. Took about 90 mins in total. Afterwards, I am still getting the exact same problem with the new part.

My Mercedes SDS scanner still comes up with fault code "9060 M14/8 (CL left rear door motor) : short circuit to ground" error, any suggestions what to look for next?

tritron

You need to look for shorted wire to body.

ml3204me

This is for the trunk, but the doors are very similar

spawnywhippet

Its not too difficult, took me about 30 mins to remove the actuator the first time I did it. You need a T30 torx, plastic trim prybar tool and follow the youtube

ml3204me

Using a volt meter hunt down that short.

-AJC-

Sorry for the thread revival.

I've been following the video above to try and remove my door actuator. I'm stuck trying to remove my door lock cylinder??

I've removed the 20tx bolt from the inside (@ 2min10sec in the video) but the lock cylinder will not come away? Been reading other forums for around 4 hrs now and I've heard mention of a catch that needs to be released in addition to the 20tx bolt??

Can anyone shed any light?

Thanks

Maj. Dundee

There is no other step. Try pushing it out through the access hole.

-AJC-

Yeah good idea, I tried that but where the bolt screws in is already loose, its the main lock cylinder that seems reluctant to budge?

Not sure if there's a further catch?

Maj. Dundee

I never removed a W164 lock cyl., but it seems very easy in the video.

When you say it's stuck, how is it stuck? Is something over it?