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2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
DIY transmission fluid change
Hi, I just bought a used 07 ml350. I was looking around for a transmission fluid dipstick/filler tube but to my avail I couldnt find one. Anybody know if there is one that is hidden, or is it a go to the dealer thing? I have an E320 that I have done the tranny fluid in so I knew where to start looking but couldnt find it
Its not so bad, there is a fill port in the oil pan for the transmission, you pull the plug, drain, remove pan and replace filter, install pan and start filling it through the drain plug, you will see it is a tube that goes up into the pan a few inches to set the proper level, I found it takes 5 liters (twice same result). Once you can no longer push fluid up there start the engine (must be reasonably cold) and let it idle and continue to fill. The proper level is set when fluid drips out of the hole at roughly 40C fluid temp. You can use various methods to fill it, mighty vac makes some nice tools for the job ($200-300 but with fittings etc so it is really simple), or a suction tube from the auto parts store, it helps to find a fitting with barb end to thread into the oil pan so you can fill it easier with a suction tube/gun type of unit (looks like a grease gun, costs $20-fluid evacuator etc). This job costs $400 range at the dealer, so yes it pays to DIY. Fluid is available online under $10 a liter MB spec 236.14 I believe and filter costs $30 range.
I would change it every 40k miles, I know most of the wear happens in the first interval, but they are expensive units and nothing is lifetime fluid.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Originally Posted by houseofdiesel
Its not so bad, there is a fill port in the oil pan for the transmission, you pull the plug, drain, remove pan and replace filter, install pan and start filling it through the drain plug, you will see it is a tube that goes up into the pan a few inches to set the proper level, I found it takes 5 liters (twice same result). Once you can no longer push fluid up there start the engine (must be reasonably cold) and let it idle and continue to fill. The proper level is set when fluid drips out of the hole at roughly 40C fluid temp. You can use various methods to fill it, mighty vac makes some nice tools for the job ($200-300 but with fittings etc so it is really simple), or a suction tube from the auto parts store, it helps to find a fitting with barb end to thread into the oil pan so you can fill it easier with a suction tube/gun type of unit (looks like a grease gun, costs $20-fluid evacuator etc). This job costs $400 range at the dealer, so yes it pays to DIY. Fluid is available online under $10 a liter MB spec 236.14 I believe and filter costs $30 range.
I would change it every 40k miles, I know most of the wear happens in the first interval, but they are expensive units and nothing is lifetime fluid.
Awesome! Thank you. That's a weird method they decided to go with but it's a good thing I know now!
Awesome! Thank you. That's a weird method they decided to go with but it's a good thing I know now!
Pretty sure you have to knock the "tube" out of the way before much of the fluid will drain. If you don't, you should only get a few drips. If it pours out from simply removing the drain plug then the tube is no longer in place.
Also, I believe there is an access port that will allow you to remove the plug in the torque converter to switch out even more fluid. Approximately 9 liters total.
Nick,
Do you have access to a lift? This sounds like a pain to do without one.
My wife's ML is due. Trying to figure out if I want to do it myself or pay. Seems like after buying the pump, filler tool and tubing I could pay for it to be done.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
I do not but as long as you have 4 jack stands to keep it level I don't see how it would be difficult. I am going to use a new oil drain pan and get as much of the tranny fluid as I can and the pour it in the jug of the pump then calibrate the level by using a marker. Then I will clean the jug out and fill it with new fluid and pump that in. The tube will run under the truck and I will pump it from above.
Oh I also didn't mention I have a star diagnosis clone so i will use that to monitor temps etc. you may be better off getting it done in that case
Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. Can you share the info on your star diagnosis clone? I am going to start investing in MB specific tools. I have a feeling this won't be our last Benz.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Originally Posted by davey one
Really you are just mixing new fluid with old if you do not drain torque converter , also why are you buying a new sump pan?
Just did it today. Im going to completely flush it next time, it was pitch black! After dropping the pan it was alot redder though. The sump pan thing was a typo
Last edited by Nickthegreek; 08-31-2012 at 11:31 PM.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Originally Posted by paracutin
Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated. Can you share the info on your star diagnosis clone? I am going to start investing in MB specific tools. I have a feeling this won't be our last Benz.
I've invested in a star diagnosis clone, ball joint removal kit, shop press, engine hoist, motive brake bleeder, mity vac evacuator plus, and a professional balljoint separator not a pickle fork. I have pics and can do a diy if enough people want one but it will be pretty hars without the star diagnosis so not sure of its worth writing up. Otherwise its pretty straightforward
Are you guys SURE about the torque converter drain? I have heard it was not present on our trucks, it disappeared sometime ago and only recently reappeared on the most recent stuff. Please post if your sure you have one and what model year.
Thanks, Greg
I went to JEGS Performance's web site and ordered an Earl's 9919EFG (adapter, 8AN male to 12mm-1.5), a JEGS 100846 (8AN female to 3/8" hose) and a JEGS 100847 (8AN female to 1/2" hose) to simplify the fill issue. The cost for all was about $ 23 with free shipping. For sealing against the transmission pan, I found a 1/8" thick o-ring in my parts box which fits snugly over the 8mm threads.
If you know your pump hose size before ordering (which I didn't), and order only one barb, the cost is about $ 17. Also, you can order 6AN fittings instead 8AN if you only need the 3/8" hose barb size.
I was coming up with around a $ 45 cost to order the Assenmacher ATF129 tool, and I didn't see any benefit to the higher cost tool.
Hi Nick, I am new here. Bought an 09 ML320 BT with 48k and now at 50k getting ready to do my schedule C. I also bought an MB Star Diagnostic clone and wanted to know how you learned to use it? Thanks. Bo
for those interested, MB Dealer now wants $831 to perform this procedure on my w166. Looks like I will be buying some more tools also and doing it myself
for those interested, MB Dealer now wants $831 to perform this procedure on my w166. Looks like I will be buying some more tools also and doing it myself
Thanks Mike. Senior Leigh on YouTube has a great video on 722.9 oil change on an E350. I recommend watching his video. It is well done and the tools needed are clearly visible.
08-12-2012, 10:13 PM
