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2007 ML350
Doing some work at the fuse box, by mistake I touched the positive cable from the engine compartment fuse box to the vehicle's ground/body. It sparked, no blown fuses (unless other fuses are hidden somewhere) but the car will not start now. ALL accessories work normal: windows, locks, Command, radio, power seats...so the battery has juice in it. The jumper post terminal has power but the red cable that goes into the engine fuse box - the one that I shorted out - is dead...no power. On the dash I have a red message that reads "DRIVE TO THE WORKSHOP WITHOUT SHIFTING GEARS". How can I drive it if it won't even start, not a click. Does the jump terminal box have fuses inside (the so called prefuse)? It seems to be sealed. Help please!!! Thanks
Last edited by meaculpa; 04-18-2013 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: solved
The problem was the prefuse box that is under the jump terminal post and must be replaced as a whole unit. It is a dealer only part and my cost was $107. While waiting for the part (takes a couple-three days to get it) I used a bypass from the jumper post that does have power to the engine compartment fuse box power terminal (pics). The car started, runs as new and no warning lights. It is a temporary fix but one can use the vehicle until the dealer orders the prefuse box. Also, I found some fuses not listed anywhere in the owner's literature right by the battery (pics). So, be very careful when jumping the battery or working with live wires/cables.Lesson learned
Last edited by meaculpa; 04-18-2013 at 08:19 PM.
Reason: solved
I picked up the new prefuse box today and this is how it looks inside (see pics). In my case was the 100 Amp fuse that was blown. I'm pretty sure that we can come up with some fuses that match the ones inside so that one will not have to buy the whole thing (what a rip off). The box itself can be opened - it is not sealed - like the dealer said.
Last edited by meaculpa; 04-24-2013 at 10:41 AM.
Reason: pics
The problem was the prefuse box that is under the jump terminal post and must be replaced as a whole unit. It is a dealer only part and my cost was $107. While waiting for the part (takes a couple-three days to get it) I used a bypass from the jumper post that does have power to the engine compartment fuse box power terminal (pics). The car started, runs as new and no warning lights. It is a temporary fix but one can use the vehicle until the dealer orders the prefuse box. Also, I found some fuses not listed anywhere in the owner's literature right by the battery (pics). So, be very careful when jumping the battery or working with live wires/cables.Lesson learned
can you please give me the part number of the fuse box?
I ran into this same problem and found this thread via a google search. I had my car at a shop for a separate problem which the mechanic couldn't solve and ended up towing the car back to my house. Upon arrival, I had the visit workshop message and beeping. The mechanic told me that he had pulled a fuse from the engine fuse box, so I deduced that he must have shorted the power cable. I verified that I had this problem by connecting a lead from the positive jumper post to the positive post in the fuse box, after which my beeping and visit workshop message went away.
So, after some research, it looks like this is indeed an AMI, aka MIDI fuse, but with a post hole slightly larger than 5mm. I found a very similar AMI fuse by Blue Sea Systems, PN 5256 at West Marine for $8.99 for a pack of two. Also available at Amazon for $7.26. See pics.
The post just barely fits the fuse, but you really have to force it. I found a better solution of just popping each post out and screwing them into the fuse.
If you have the fuse in hand, its a ~15 minute job. Disconnect your battery first! Thanks meaculpa for your posts! Hope this helps someone avoid getting ripped off by the dealer.
Engine seized, dash started beeping and message "DRIVE TO THE WORKSHOP WITHOUT SHIFTI
A couple of days ago, I experienced something weird.
While driving, engine seized, dash started beeping and message "DRIVE TO THE WORKSHOP WITHOUT SHIFTI" appeared in the info in the display.
First, I tried to just tow the car home, but Park had automatically been entered and the GL 320CDI had digged her heals into the ground.
I connected the MB DAS diagnostic, an I could not reach the CDI nor the transmission module.
All other modules, like rear SAM Which i replaced a few weeks ago with a new unit from eBay (China US$ 375.00) was "online".
Ended up dragging the black lady onto a flat deck wrecker and entered the "drive of shame" back home.
I was lucky. Last weekend I was on a 750 km ride with a car trailer at the rear end.
-Now, I was only 3 km away from home.
I'm a non-educated mechanic with 37 years experience, but have my daily trade as an electrician, and are a computer guy with 30 years of experience.
A perfect combo for being a owner of a ML and a GL...
After spending some time in my yard, I could no get the car into the garage and onto the 2 pole lifter due do the annoying stuck into "P"...
I found the I still could not reach any of the drive train computers with the DAS diagnostic.
Started searching for where to find the ECU, and also ripped out the passenger seat to check if there was some fuses there that was blown.
everything was ok!!
Of course I ripped out all fuses in the engine compartment box, and rear compartment box, checking with the "beeper" on the multi tester, only to find all fuses in ok condition.
Also the fuse terminals on in fuse boxes was ok.
Then, I wanted to check again in the engine compartment with the Volt meter on the fuses
(This should have been my very first step!!! Mind my word!!!)
NOTHING!!! Not a single milli Volt!
I measured between ground on the engine and the "jump start" terminal, and there was plenty of voltage.
But on the 10 mm bolt on the engine compartment fuse box: ZERO -nil -0
But where does the fuse box get it's power from?
I didn't actually see that, because the red power cable was hidden in a cable hose.
BUT! As an electrician, I knew that the fuse box needs power!!!
I jumped a power line from the jump start terminal to the 10 mm bolt in the engine compartment fuse box, and with a shaking hand, I went into the car and swithed on the ignition.
No "Drive to Workshop" message and no beep.
Trying to engage the gear shift handle, and it WORKS!!!
And the engine also start as a dream.
A little more investigation, and I find this thread showing that there are a hidden, not documented pre fuse box.
Thank you a lot dear Daimler BENZ. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. *******S!!!
And shure... The 100 Amp fuse were blown.
And here the story could have ended.
But I'm an electrician.
Why does a 100 Amp fuse blow on the highway?
Which is a short circuit protection for the power supply for the engine compartment fuse box?
I added the clamp meter (DC) to the "jump wire" and the power consumption was 5-6 Amp.
There are not THAT much being supplied from this fuse box.
Lights, some circulation pumps, ABS/ESP and the airmatic compressor.
I'm also a Audi Allroad owner for many years, and I guess that I could go for a doctors degree on the air suspension and Wabco system.
Actually the Air valve block on the W164 and X164 is the same item number as on the Allroad...
Compressor is the same, and the level sensors also.. Just for your information.
Well..
Back to the GL...
I turned the control wheel for raising the vehicle, and wow!
What happened when the Wabco compressor turns on!
The jump cable (only a 16 Amp cable) started to heat up and the insulation started melting.
I turned off and disconnected immediately the cable (resulting in beep and go to workshop message).
I removed the 40A fuse for the compressor from the fuse box, put on a 50A automat fuse from my electrician stock via extra cables to the terminals in the fuse box where the 40A fuse was removed from.
Replaced the 16A cable with a 1000A 50 mm² jump start cable and put on the clamp meter.
Started the car and told the Airmatic to raise the car.
WHOA!
First the clamp meter jumped to 116 Amp, then raising to incredible 197 Amp before my 50A fuse disconnected the circuit.
The foe was discovered!
Later, after moving (what a relief) the lady to the 2 post lifter, I removed the right front wheel.
Took of the front end of the inner wheel arch in plastic and discovered the Wabco compressor right behind the bumper.
When I tried to disconnect the power plug from the compressor, it was STUCK.
I had to cut the cables.
With the compressor on the workbench, I could feel the smell of burned engine!
I opened the engine (2 x Torx 30), and pulled the stator and brush holder out.
It had been warm, but wasn't fried.
Blew it clean with compressed air, an with a line flat screw driver, I cleaned between every one of the contacts on the rotor (which run nice without any resistance -bearings in ok condition).
Cleaning the rotor afterwards with sanding paper, and after another compressed air cleaning, I assembled the unit again.
With a spare 12V battery and jump start cables, I tested the compressor.
Current was measured to 19 Amp, increasing to 26 Amp when I blocked for the air pipe causing the compressor to work harder.
So, back into the car it went, and bar down on the ground.
Starting the engine and raising the vehicle.
Powerconsumption for the fuse box is 25-30 Amp.
So, due to a inner short circuit on the rotor (anchor) of the compressor, we had a extreme power peak.
And due to a slow or failing 40 Amp fuse for the compressor, the hidden and non-documented 100 Amp fuse said "good night".
Ok, this was a long write out (took more than 1 hour for me to write (I'm from Norway, not native English speaking), but I hope this might help some one in the future, as I guess that this is not the last combination of this incident world wide.
And I can just imagine what the cost from a stealership would have been for this.
In Norway, they now charge close to US$ 200.00 for one hour...
And to the one that still are reading: Thank you for your patience. There was no communication with the CDI / ECU module Cryptic error message telling that the unit relay swithed off too soon Disconnect the car battery. Remove the housing for pollen filter, and the jump start terminal, and you can open the PRE fuse box. And WHOA! There is the missing link (literally).
I have a 2001 clk 55 amg and I cant find the prefuse box! I checked the engine bay the trunk and under the passenger side carpet and still no luck. Starting to wonder if there even is a prefuse box in this model
I am in the midst of fixing the very same issue. Car was jumped by others and I believe they blew the fuse. As per the post above I had voltage one side of the fuse, but not the other. I have ran a set of jumpers either side as noted above and all errors disappeared and car started fine.
I have just managed to disassemble the pre fuse box. It was a little tough and I was concerned I would break it, but it came apart relatively easily especially if you start to pry it near bottom side where wires come in to it.
I have a blown 150 amp fuse and will be purchasing tomorrow.
thank you all very much who contributed to this thread as I wouldn’t have worked this out without this great knowledge.
Hi All, Facing a weird issue with my ml 350 w164 2011 model. When I try to start the car a strange noise comes and then no crank. sometimes after crank car run for few seconds and shows all error messages on dashboard. After these car wont crank again. Checked all fuses and relays. all look fine. Replaced starter relay. no luck. But the moment i removed negative terminal of the battery and connected back car getting started without any issues. Turned off again and try to start the car. No issues found. But again on next day same issue happens. No crank on poistion 3. Any idea whats going wrong. I tried to scan the vehicle when the car was down. Getting lots of CAN related messages. This been happening from past 2 months. Some time car will run till 1 month without any issues and suddenly same issue comes back. Never faced issue on running. Issue coming after parking the car and try to start it on next day. Need to reset the battery terminals to solve this. Please help. thanks in advance.
I ran into this same problem and found this thread via a google search. I had my car at a shop for a separate problem which the mechanic couldn't solve and ended up towing the car back to my house. Upon arrival, I had the visit workshop message and beeping. The mechanic told me that he had pulled a fuse from the engine fuse box, so I deduced that he must have shorted the power cable. I verified that I had this problem by connecting a lead from the positive jumper post to the positive post in the fuse box, after which my beeping and visit workshop message went away.
So, after some research, it looks like this is indeed an AMI, aka MIDI fuse, but with a post hole slightly larger than 5mm. I found a very similar AMI fuse by Blue Sea Systems, PN 5256 at West Marine for $8.99 for a pack of two. Also available at Amazon for $7.26. See pics.
The post just barely fits the fuse, but you really have to force it. I found a better solution of just popping each post out and screwing them into the fuse.
If you have the fuse in hand, it’s mga ~15 minute job. Disconnect your battery first! Thanks meaculpa for your posts! Hope this helps someone avoid getting ripped off by the dealer.
omg I have been looking for DAYS my car went to have a wheel bearing changed he said it was done but the car wouldn’t start and was beeping
Drive car to workshop do not shift gears.
I was so scared that a dealer would charge crazy money to replace things that don’t need to be replaced and I almost gave up and brought it to the shop tomorrow but now I’m checking this prefuse box and if that’s it we should be back in business woohoo! Tytyyy
04-17-2013, 09:59 PM
