32O CDI engine after oil cooler repair
03-17-2014, 07:39 PM
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2008 ml320 CDi
32O CDI engine after oil cooler repair
Hi Everyone,
I replaced the oil coolers seal. This was a huge job, took me two days. Car started, problem is I am getting a check engine light. Multiple codes:
P0243, P2101, P0472, P0118, P0101,, P0403, P0228. I had them read at an Autozone.
Is there possibly something i missed that is causing air loss? Car starts idles well, and drives OK.
Anywhere I can see what the codes mean?
Thanks
MBP
I replaced the oil coolers seal. This was a huge job, took me two days. Car started, problem is I am getting a check engine light. Multiple codes:
P0243, P2101, P0472, P0118, P0101,, P0403, P0228. I had them read at an Autozone.
Is there possibly something i missed that is causing air loss? Car starts idles well, and drives OK.
Anywhere I can see what the codes mean?
Thanks
MBP
03-17-2014, 11:10 PM
#4
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google the codes and start tracing back.
Bet it is either a porly seated connector a broken wire (ground) or a blown fuse.
Bet it is either a porly seated connector a broken wire (ground) or a blown fuse.
03-19-2014, 12:46 AM
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Out Of Control!!
03-19-2014, 09:49 PM
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Good news. CEL light reset itself.
Here is what happened, hence I did not stress too much on Monday. My mistake, when I first started the car after the repair Sunday and took it for a drive it went into limp mode. Figured turbo was not working...in my rush, i forgot the plug the electric connecter to the turbo servo....took care of this. Started the car went for a drive, no issues but the CEL was still on. Which codes i posted.
I drove the car Tuesday. This morning went I started the car, CEL turned off as usual. Stopped started today, all is fine. I guess, the ecu had to reset itself.
Oil leak fixed, all looks ok, I am happy.
Thanks for the help.
MBP
Here is what happened, hence I did not stress too much on Monday. My mistake, when I first started the car after the repair Sunday and took it for a drive it went into limp mode. Figured turbo was not working...in my rush, i forgot the plug the electric connecter to the turbo servo....took care of this. Started the car went for a drive, no issues but the CEL was still on. Which codes i posted.
I drove the car Tuesday. This morning went I started the car, CEL turned off as usual. Stopped started today, all is fine. I guess, the ecu had to reset itself.
Oil leak fixed, all looks ok, I am happy.
Thanks for the help.
MBP
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03-20-2014, 06:22 AM
#9
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Yes, please post pics if available.. that would help any of us who need to do this job in the future!
I'm ready to do the job if I ever need to (have tools, etc) but if I could get an estimate of how difficult it was, that would be helpful.
Out of interest, when you say 2 days, how many actual work hours would you say that was? And what was the parts cost and did you buy from the dealer or online(ie. genuinemercedesparts.com or a similar site for OEM parts)
I'm ready to do the job if I ever need to (have tools, etc) but if I could get an estimate of how difficult it was, that would be helpful.
Out of interest, when you say 2 days, how many actual work hours would you say that was? And what was the parts cost and did you buy from the dealer or online(ie. genuinemercedesparts.com or a similar site for OEM parts)
03-20-2014, 10:15 PM
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Sorry guys, I did not take any pictures. Job took me a total 18 hours...i had to figure stuff out. Pictures from this thread are pretty good:
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...placement.html.
Job took me a total 18 hours...i had to figure stuff out.
I will take a picture of my engine this weekend and mark up items with notes.
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...placement.html.
Job took me a total 18 hours...i had to figure stuff out.
I will take a picture of my engine this weekend and mark up items with notes.
03-21-2014, 09:29 AM
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18 hours for a DIY does not sound too bad. I have heard it is a 10 to 15 hour jub for a mechanic.
Any special tools needed, or any particularly hard parts to remove/replace?
Anything break in the process?
Any special tools needed, or any particularly hard parts to remove/replace?
Anything break in the process?
03-23-2014, 07:33 PM
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Sorry guys, I did not take many pictures. Job took me a total 18 hours...i had to figure stuff out. I will just share my learning's. If you have not done any major repairs in the past, you may want to makes notes as you remove parts. I tried to take a few shortcuts but in the end you have to remove a lot of items. I could have saved at least 2 hours. Sounds daunting but take your time. Check out this thread as well (https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...placement.html), I pulled two pics from here. Attached PDF has pictures that reference the numbers in the notes.
Some additional tips here:
1. Drain some coolant. I just took of the plastic covers from below the engine,,, about 10 bolts. Find a two inch coolant pipe on the right side and remove this.
2. Air intake pipe. I always loosen the air filter housing (take of the two bolts on each housing) and pull it back. Air intake pipe is a lot easier to remove this way.
3. Remove the turbo shroud. Remove the electrical connector on the EGR and you may have to jiggle a little.
4. Remove the exhaust outlet elbow. Three bolts on the turbo and the clamp. Just jank hard it will come off. Now you have a little more space to work.
5. Remove the firewall panels. One behind the turbo and the two for the air filter housing. Give you a lot of space to work.
6. Now you can start removing the bypass to the EGR and exhaust manifold bolts. I used 3/8 torx sockets and swivels as required. Make sure they are snug on the bolts. Surprisingly easy to remove but don’t get too lax here.
7. There is a bracket that holds down the turbo on the back. You can use a long extension and remove the bolts from the top – these bolt directly into the engine block. I made the mistake and took the one from the back. This was a PITA, took me two hours. Finally used long extensions over the tranny (almost two feet) and they came loose with a breaker bar. Save time here. See picture above
8. Now you can start removing other items. Remove the fuel filter, air filter housing other obvious stuff. Fuel filter pipes, use the right tool to remove the click clips. I just use a pincer plier and small screwdriver.
9. Remove the left fuel rail pipes. Not an easy task. The pipes need a metric 18 wrench. I took a ring and cut a slit. Difficult part was taking of the little bypass hose for the fuel pipes. Just work your way from the end of the fuel lines, don’t force anything.
10. Remove radiator hose, silver pipe from turbo, inlet pipes etc. These are obvious on how to remove. I took of the glow plug module…just makes like easy.
11. There is a black fuel/air distributor on the top of the left manifold. I did not remove the clamps, just the circlip. Once you take left rail just pull the distributor, pipes and electrical harness forward to gain access. There may be some cable ties to cut off.
12. Your choice when at what point you pull the turbo off. I did when it made sense. Remove, the 2 bolts that hold down the pedestal. And front bracket. Lift up move it back a little and pull it out.
13. Remove the butterfly servo. The linkages are held by “ball sockets”. Use a long nose plier to press the lugs that you see. Press them hard enough….don’t worry if they break. I preferred this, avoid other damage. Remove the servo.
14. Remove the turbo pedestal. Make sure you plug all the oil holes, exhaust, manifolds etc. You don’t want to drop anything into the holes.
15. Remove the inlet manifolds bolts, lift up and separate. There is a water connector pipe. It will separate when you lift out the manifolds.
16. You can clean up the area, and just remove the oil cooler bolts and remove. I always loosen all the bolts ½ a turn, then remove.
17. You are now in business to clean your parts. The dirtiest part, wear decent gloves. I just used gasoline and rinses. I did not take pictures of all the gunk and soot. Search for these.
18. Assemble in reverse order.
Additional notes.
a. The plastic rail on the left manifold that connects to the servo opens the butterfly shows ware on the hole in the rear (servo end). I guess this is so because the servo pivots on this. You cannot buy a rail. I just popped the pins that hold it and flipped it around. Should give me more life.
b. Make notes and take pictures of the bolts. Some short ones need to go into specific areas.
c. Check you electrical connections. I missed the turbo one, started the car and it threw all sorts of codes.
d. When installing the left rails and fuel pipes plus pipe for the air/fuel distributor, make sure the pipe is threaded correctly. I messed up here.
e. When I started the car, it cranked for a while without starting. I just sprayed started fluid in the intake. It fired up and was fine as soon as it build fuel pressure.
f. Attaching the parts list as well. Not included here is the rings for the water connector pipe between the manifolds.
g. Attached pictures I took plus added into 2 additional thread..
Good luck. PM me if you start and get stuck in the process, I can help.
Some additional tips here:
1. Drain some coolant. I just took of the plastic covers from below the engine,,, about 10 bolts. Find a two inch coolant pipe on the right side and remove this.
2. Air intake pipe. I always loosen the air filter housing (take of the two bolts on each housing) and pull it back. Air intake pipe is a lot easier to remove this way.
3. Remove the turbo shroud. Remove the electrical connector on the EGR and you may have to jiggle a little.
4. Remove the exhaust outlet elbow. Three bolts on the turbo and the clamp. Just jank hard it will come off. Now you have a little more space to work.
5. Remove the firewall panels. One behind the turbo and the two for the air filter housing. Give you a lot of space to work.
6. Now you can start removing the bypass to the EGR and exhaust manifold bolts. I used 3/8 torx sockets and swivels as required. Make sure they are snug on the bolts. Surprisingly easy to remove but don’t get too lax here.
7. There is a bracket that holds down the turbo on the back. You can use a long extension and remove the bolts from the top – these bolt directly into the engine block. I made the mistake and took the one from the back. This was a PITA, took me two hours. Finally used long extensions over the tranny (almost two feet) and they came loose with a breaker bar. Save time here. See picture above
8. Now you can start removing other items. Remove the fuel filter, air filter housing other obvious stuff. Fuel filter pipes, use the right tool to remove the click clips. I just use a pincer plier and small screwdriver.
9. Remove the left fuel rail pipes. Not an easy task. The pipes need a metric 18 wrench. I took a ring and cut a slit. Difficult part was taking of the little bypass hose for the fuel pipes. Just work your way from the end of the fuel lines, don’t force anything.
10. Remove radiator hose, silver pipe from turbo, inlet pipes etc. These are obvious on how to remove. I took of the glow plug module…just makes like easy.
11. There is a black fuel/air distributor on the top of the left manifold. I did not remove the clamps, just the circlip. Once you take left rail just pull the distributor, pipes and electrical harness forward to gain access. There may be some cable ties to cut off.
12. Your choice when at what point you pull the turbo off. I did when it made sense. Remove, the 2 bolts that hold down the pedestal. And front bracket. Lift up move it back a little and pull it out.
13. Remove the butterfly servo. The linkages are held by “ball sockets”. Use a long nose plier to press the lugs that you see. Press them hard enough….don’t worry if they break. I preferred this, avoid other damage. Remove the servo.
14. Remove the turbo pedestal. Make sure you plug all the oil holes, exhaust, manifolds etc. You don’t want to drop anything into the holes.
15. Remove the inlet manifolds bolts, lift up and separate. There is a water connector pipe. It will separate when you lift out the manifolds.
16. You can clean up the area, and just remove the oil cooler bolts and remove. I always loosen all the bolts ½ a turn, then remove.
17. You are now in business to clean your parts. The dirtiest part, wear decent gloves. I just used gasoline and rinses. I did not take pictures of all the gunk and soot. Search for these.
18. Assemble in reverse order.
Additional notes.
a. The plastic rail on the left manifold that connects to the servo opens the butterfly shows ware on the hole in the rear (servo end). I guess this is so because the servo pivots on this. You cannot buy a rail. I just popped the pins that hold it and flipped it around. Should give me more life.
b. Make notes and take pictures of the bolts. Some short ones need to go into specific areas.
c. Check you electrical connections. I missed the turbo one, started the car and it threw all sorts of codes.
d. When installing the left rails and fuel pipes plus pipe for the air/fuel distributor, make sure the pipe is threaded correctly. I messed up here.
e. When I started the car, it cranked for a while without starting. I just sprayed started fluid in the intake. It fired up and was fine as soon as it build fuel pressure.
f. Attaching the parts list as well. Not included here is the rings for the water connector pipe between the manifolds.
g. Attached pictures I took plus added into 2 additional thread..
Good luck. PM me if you start and get stuck in the process, I can help.
Last edited by mbhouston; 03-23-2014 at 07:51 PM.
06-30-2014, 07:51 AM
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mercedes
Hi Guys,
Sorry to invade. I have a 2004 c220 cdi estate..
The car drove really low and as in limp mode..would not want to pick up/kick down...just steady slow drive.
Was getting the code P1400...replaced the EGR...no luck...
replaced the air mass sensor...no luck...
Now getting the codes P0472 EXHAUST PRESSURE SENSOR LOW, P0403 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION, P1400.
Now not sure on how to fix it now. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Sorry to invade. I have a 2004 c220 cdi estate..
The car drove really low and as in limp mode..would not want to pick up/kick down...just steady slow drive.
Was getting the code P1400...replaced the EGR...no luck...
replaced the air mass sensor...no luck...
Now getting the codes P0472 EXHAUST PRESSURE SENSOR LOW, P0403 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION, P1400.
Now not sure on how to fix it now. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
12-27-2014, 03:18 PM
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2007 R320 CDI
Quick question to you mbhouston: What was the error on item 7. I am about to do the same work on my R320 and since I'll be making plenty of my own errors I figured I'll try to at least avoid the ones others made. But your item 7 is not clear to me. Did you intend to removed the two bolts that hold the turbo bracket into the engine block ? What did you do instead ? What happened ? Any clarification would be very appreciated.
06-21-2016, 05:57 PM
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2007 , ml320 cdi
Hi all
Last week I changed the turbocharger for my ml320 CDI and put a new one . the boost was increased , would say , 20% and was fantastic but after flooring a couple times , I saw DZL was pouring form back of engine . No idea what is going on and if any easy fix or I have to see a shop and who know how much will cost me!!!!! . Any idea or similar problem . where should I start . any input would be great. Thanks
Last week I changed the turbocharger for my ml320 CDI and put a new one . the boost was increased , would say , 20% and was fantastic but after flooring a couple times , I saw DZL was pouring form back of engine . No idea what is going on and if any easy fix or I have to see a shop and who know how much will cost me!!!!! . Any idea or similar problem . where should I start . any input would be great. Thanks
