jumpi007

Hi,

I need to change my rotors and pads on my ML 350 2009 and was thinking about Zimmermann Coated or Centric High Carbon Alloy 125 Series. I have already selected Akebono pads.

Anyone having a better suggestion for the rotor? I will purchase on internet and want to keep a certain quality but without going above the 250-300$ bracket for all for rotors.

Some say the Zimmerman are soft like original MB rotors and they prefer harder.

Last questions: are the front rotors 330mm or 350mm? Rear brake vented?

Thanks!

N4HHE

You expect to get 4 brake rotors for under $300? Keep us informed, this is interesting.

What I have seen of prices, the OE genuine M-B rotors which have apparently lasted (only?) 5 years are the least expensive. Why would you use anything else?

Is very easy to go outside and look at your ML's rear rotors through the rear wheel and verify they are solid unvented. I believe its the ML63 or possibly ML500 with the vented rears.

jumpi007

I meant 300$ just for the parts. PartGeek.com will sell all 4 rotors for that price. I do know it will cost me some another 350$ to get them installed along with the pads.

N4HHE

Prices I have seen elsewhere for aftermarket rotors was about double the prices at PartsGeek.com. From memory OE M-B rotors can be hand for about $85 each front, $75 each rear. Assuming you really do need rotors. If they are within wear limits and still true then there is no point in replacing them.

Brake rotors and pads are easily within the realm of DIY tasks. The hardest most dangerous task is jacking the vehicle up and removing the wheel.

In 1993 I had an appointment 100 miles away one Saturday morning and realized I had procrastinated too long in replacing my 1986 VW Golf's brake rotors. I really don't like pulsing brakes. Had new rotors sitting in the garage (believe genuine ATE rotors were $18 each). Jumped in with both feet and had new rotors on both front wheels and tools and floor jack put away in just about 30 minutes.

06e320cdi

Whether or not you go to dealer to get the parts, get the zinc coated ones. They will not rust as quickly. I have used zimmerman on other vehicle with good results. Also, if you belong to MBCA, dealers will typically give 10%-15% discount on parts. The inexpensive annual membership has paid for itself 100 times over.

sheepdog8

Check Rockauto.com also, sometimes they have the best price & they ship quickly.

N_Jay

I have had good luck and good prices on Centric parts from these guys.
http://www.partsbossonline.com/

u001elg

The ML350 utilized the same rotors from 2006 through at least 2010. I Know because I have both a 2006 gas and a 2010 Bluetek - and yes they take the same brakes and rotors.


The front rotors are vented and the rear are solid. I paid approx. $240.00 (incld PA 6% sales tax) for all four from the dealership - it pays to foster a good relationship with both the parts and service manager. Even @ full list the MB rotors are $342 for all four.


I have not had a "soft" rotor concern, in fact I just changed brakes on the Bluetek for the first time at 85K miles. The rotors had a pretty good lip on them so I purchased all four just in case they were close to minimum thickness - they were all good and I put the new ones on the shelf since the 2006 will need new rotors at the next brake replacement (that vehicle has about 110K miles & have replaced brakes twice @ about 45K intervals - my wife is a bit tougher on the brakes than I am).

C230 Sport Coup

Picked up rear rotors from ebay with shipping for like 60 each for ML 06.
MB oem + Akebono ftw!
Here's a set of 2 rear for 100 bucks with shipping OEM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-GENUINE-MERCEDES-BENZ-NEW-REAR-BRAKE-ROTORS-X2-FOR-E350-4MATIC-/251331664905?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8488dc09&vxp=mtr

STLML350

I just did mine yesterday, got the parts from Tirerack.com , 330mm vented front and 330 solid back, ceramic pads front/back. Pay a shop $200 to install, dealer wanted $450 just to do rears.

STLML350

Update: After about 1k miles very little brake dust and brakeing us good, as they have wore in they are braking with less faid.

N4HHE

You were able to brake hard enough to make the original pads and rotors fade? I have never been able to do that on any vehicle but once on dirtbike in a race in mud. Not only did my best to cook the brakes, new pads were gone in 30 miles. Last 10 miles were metal on metal, which worked surprisingly well until they cooled down. Then didn't work at all when loading the bike to go home.

BEN-Z

I did my front brakes for 150 plus, bought the 2 rotors ebay for $100 w/free shipping (meyle wd xpress) and got the akebono eur123 from advance auto, using the online coupons for 55.
That's the cheapest front brake that I did on this truck.

STLML350

Ok, lets not use the term fade. Original pads had great grip, after installing new ceramics and disks the grip was less and had to use more pedel force to get same grip. After a 1000 miles they are taking less pedel force.

N4HHE

Thank you for clarifying.

Am not sure I would fault "more pedal force" but it does justify What I Did: Wear idiot light illuminated recently for my rear pads. Eventually ordered Akebono ceramics, front and rear. The actual friction doesn't concern me so much as I want the front and rear to be balanced. Don't want one to grab different than the other.

New pads have arrived. I haven't made time to jack the truck up.

STLML350

We have a few thousand miles on the new pads and rotors! Much better grip after the pad bedded and no brake dust.

cal1

Just got the brake wear light on my 06 ML. My indy is telling me he recommends changing rotors with pads every time. He says old rotors and new pads just don't wear right. I had pads only replaced by an MB dealer about 20k miles back on my SL. No issues at all and I tend to get the SL going fast which leads to some serious braking. The car stops like it did when it was new.

Is my indy full of it or maybe just not used to dealing with the massive rotors on our MBs. He mostly works on BMWs and Audis.

N4HHE

Your "indy" is looking out for his own interests more than yours. He gets a percentage of all the parts he uses. He wants to spend your money to make his job easier.

If your brakes do not pulse and the rotors show no sign of gouging, grooves, or pits, then measure their thicknesses. Believe I have posted the service limits on this forum or the other but there are several different rotors your ML can be fitted and they are all of different thicknesses. If within specs then don't change them. Don't even have them "turned" (trued). Might even consider changing them yourself.

cal1

Thanks for the detailed response. I may consider doing this myself. I watched a few vids and the ML pad change looks very simple and straight forward. I used to do a fair amount of work on my cars, but I'm getting old and lazy these days.

N4HHE

The ML500 may have the upsized rotors. My "mere" ML320 has solid rears. My wear warning light is on and new Akebono pads are waiting on top of my tool chest. Soon.