coolant temp warning - suspect fan switch(?)
#28
Member
Glad I stumbled across this thread as I am also having very similar issues with my 03 s55. Initially my radiator had a hair line crack right next to where the upper radiator hose connects and that was a project to work on. OMG that was exhausting. After replacing the radiator my AC would blow warm as well and over heat a bit. I replaced the thermostat and to my surprise it still would overheat so my next analysis was the water pump. I removed the water pump and it seemed to be good. I contacted a buddy of mine that works on BMW cars and explained to him what I have gone through and the symptoms and he asked me to check the radiator fan. YEP it seems to be that fan as it does not come on at all, not when AC is turned ON or when the car starts to overheat past the normal operating temp.
Not to thread jack but my fan shows to be 850w and I have also found the ebay fans but those are 600w. Would it be safe to install a 600w fan for 300ish vs spending twice as much for an 850w fan?
My pockets are not deep by any means so I am looking for the best deal without sacrficing any major performance or harm to the car.
Thank you
Not to thread jack but my fan shows to be 850w and I have also found the ebay fans but those are 600w. Would it be safe to install a 600w fan for 300ish vs spending twice as much for an 850w fan?
My pockets are not deep by any means so I am looking for the best deal without sacrficing any major performance or harm to the car.
Thank you
#29
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MB ML350, VW CC 3.6, '74 MGB (wip)
Update: Success ...!!!
Great news (for me anyway): Replacing the fan assembly did indeed fix all the problems.
The 3rd party fan-assembly for $275 was surprisingly good (plug was a bit tight leading to me breaking the flimsy plug mounting bracket on the inside, but no problem)
I have now tested the vehicle for a while and am happy to report that no more warning lights are popping up and the AC is once again an arctic blast from the start.
Thanks for all who chimed in to help troubleshoot this - in particular hebdog ! - I owe you a cold one next time you happen to be in Austin ;-)
When I have some time (might be a while) I'll try and do a more succinct write-up and maybe even edit some footage I shot during the process and put it up on YouTube.
The 3rd party fan-assembly for $275 was surprisingly good (plug was a bit tight leading to me breaking the flimsy plug mounting bracket on the inside, but no problem)
I have now tested the vehicle for a while and am happy to report that no more warning lights are popping up and the AC is once again an arctic blast from the start.
Thanks for all who chimed in to help troubleshoot this - in particular hebdog ! - I owe you a cold one next time you happen to be in Austin ;-)
When I have some time (might be a while) I'll try and do a more succinct write-up and maybe even edit some footage I shot during the process and put it up on YouTube.
#30
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MB ML350, VW CC 3.6, '74 MGB (wip)
will less watts confuse ECU?
... no problem, but your question might be better answered over in the E55 forum (https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211-20/) - they might be better acquainted with the car's specs/likes/dislikes ...
I just looked on ebay and saw a lot of options for fans-only options for your car. For me the only option was the entire assembly (MB# 1645000193) which would have been around $700, so I went the "OEM replacement" route: The seller (yourradiator) had a good score, claimed drop in fit (he was correct) and offered ebay's money back guaranty. I never questioned the wattage, but I don't think I've ever heard the fan run on full power - and I have several months worth of 100 F (+) where I live.
I assume your part-# is 2115001693 (?) - a search on that brought up items starting @ $450.
I'm not an expert, but performance-wise I would assume 600 vs 850 W would not be the end of the world, unless you are in a very hot area and make a lot of stops (the fan won't be on after you pass ~35MPH anyway), and less watts mean, you're not overloading the circuit.
The key question for me would be: Does a potentially different amp-draw confuse the ECU and your problem continues ... luckily, there are far more intelligent people here that might be able to answer this. - good luck
I just looked on ebay and saw a lot of options for fans-only options for your car. For me the only option was the entire assembly (MB# 1645000193) which would have been around $700, so I went the "OEM replacement" route: The seller (yourradiator) had a good score, claimed drop in fit (he was correct) and offered ebay's money back guaranty. I never questioned the wattage, but I don't think I've ever heard the fan run on full power - and I have several months worth of 100 F (+) where I live.
I assume your part-# is 2115001693 (?) - a search on that brought up items starting @ $450.
The key question for me would be: Does a potentially different amp-draw confuse the ECU and your problem continues ... luckily, there are far more intelligent people here that might be able to answer this. - good luck
#31
Junior Member
Great news (for me anyway): Replacing the fan assembly did indeed fix all the problems.
The 3rd party fan-assembly for $275 was surprisingly good (plug was a bit tight leading to me breaking the flimsy plug mounting bracket on the inside, but no problem)
I have now tested the vehicle for a while and am happy to report that no more warning lights are popping up and the AC is once again an arctic blast from the start.
Thanks for all who chimed in to help troubleshoot this - in particular hebdog ! - I owe you a cold one next time you happen to be in Austin ;-)
The 3rd party fan-assembly for $275 was surprisingly good (plug was a bit tight leading to me breaking the flimsy plug mounting bracket on the inside, but no problem)
I have now tested the vehicle for a while and am happy to report that no more warning lights are popping up and the AC is once again an arctic blast from the start.
Thanks for all who chimed in to help troubleshoot this - in particular hebdog ! - I owe you a cold one next time you happen to be in Austin ;-)
Glad I stumbled across this thread as I am also having very similar issues with my 03 s55. Initially my radiator had a hair line crack right next to where the upper radiator hose connects and that was a project to work on. OMG that was exhausting. After replacing the radiator my AC would blow warm as well and over heat a bit. I replaced the thermostat and to my surprise it still would overheat so my next analysis was the water pump. I removed the water pump and it seemed to be good. I contacted a buddy of mine that works on BMW cars and explained to him what I have gone through and the symptoms and he asked me to check the radiator fan. YEP it seems to be that fan as it does not come on at all, not when AC is turned ON or when the car starts to overheat past the normal operating temp.
Not to thread jack but my fan shows to be 850w and I have also found the ebay fans but those are 600w. Would it be safe to install a 600w fan for 300ish vs spending twice as much for an 850w fan?
My pockets are not deep by any means so I am looking for the best deal without sacrficing any major performance or harm to the car.
Thank you
Not to thread jack but my fan shows to be 850w and I have also found the ebay fans but those are 600w. Would it be safe to install a 600w fan for 300ish vs spending twice as much for an 850w fan?
My pockets are not deep by any means so I am looking for the best deal without sacrficing any major performance or harm to the car.
Thank you
#32
Member
Hey man no problem, it is what I do! Glad it worked out bud!
With it being a MB, I would pay special attention to the spec of the current unit when replacing with a new unit. As I have stated before MB is very picky when it comes to anything electrical. If it needs, and has, a 850w power supply then you should replace it with an 850w unit. If you do not want to replace it with a factory part that is understandable. Find a OE replacement. When you try and go cheap, cheap things can happen. Like the fan control module compensating for the lack in voltage thus increasing the draw of power down the line which can cause faults. Be it a fuse being blown or warning lights on the dash. Worst case it could cause a fire or permanent damage to other systems.
With it being a MB, I would pay special attention to the spec of the current unit when replacing with a new unit. As I have stated before MB is very picky when it comes to anything electrical. If it needs, and has, a 850w power supply then you should replace it with an 850w unit. If you do not want to replace it with a factory part that is understandable. Find a OE replacement. When you try and go cheap, cheap things can happen. Like the fan control module compensating for the lack in voltage thus increasing the draw of power down the line which can cause faults. Be it a fuse being blown or warning lights on the dash. Worst case it could cause a fire or permanent damage to other systems.
#33
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MB ML350, VW CC 3.6, '74 MGB (wip)
update
I can only repeat what I said before: You guys rock. The help troubleshooting this problem I have received in this thread alone what incredibly helpful.
#34
Member
Well ... it's been almost 2 years and everything has been working great (so far - knock on wood). I do have the towing package and did not verify wattage on the replacement fan (nor on the one I replaced) - maybe I just got lucky for a change ...
I can only repeat what I said before: You guys rock. The help troubleshooting this problem I have received in this thread alone what incredibly helpful.
I can only repeat what I said before: You guys rock. The help troubleshooting this problem I have received in this thread alone what incredibly helpful.