N_Jay

Rear hatch rerlease handle fix/replace (Cross-posted from X164 since the part and hence the problem are common)
Is there a way to lube a sticking rear hatch handle instead of replacing it?


Anyone have a good write-up or video on replacing the handle.


Mine is sticking on almost every use now.

theine

Don't know of any fix, soon it will stop working completely, I just paid $400 for the part + installation to replace the one on my 2007 ML 320CDI

N_Jay

I could not afford this car is I had to pay retail and labor on every fix.


Even at retail, $104, I don't see how they charge you 2 hours at $150 per to install.

theine

$104?....they charged me $284 for the latch + 1 hour @ $99
Going back to the shop to complaint and check how much they paid for the part.

N_Jay

Well the $104 was an on-line price, so full retail could be $284


http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/__/HAN...647401193.html


EDIT:
Checking a few sites, it seems that $104 is the suggested retail price.
http://www.oediscountparts.com/parts...e%2C%20outside

theine

Actually I replaced the trunk actuator and they charged me retail, ebay prices are around $200, bummer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190904828633?lpid=82

N_Jay

Very different problem.


On mine everything works fine EXCEPT the handle is sticky and if it sticks in the "pulled" position, the hatch will not close.


I figured the handle was some electro-mechanical contraption like a door handle or door lock actuator. With all that complexity, I can see some part of it getting stiff, stuck or worn.


But, nope. It is nothing but a simple electrical switch disguised as a handle.
It could have just been a simple pushbutton.



EDIT:
Found one on eBay for cheap.
It does not look that great, but the seller says it works.
Heck, no one looks at it anyhow.


Once I have mine out, I will probably look and see how it failed and fix it for a spare. (Or maybe to sell.)

If I don't find the part cheap enough it will be a simple pushbutton!

bha

Mine had the sticky handle problem too. If you quickly "flick" the handle as you're opening the hatch, it snaps back to position. If you pull on the handle slowly/hard, it sticks.


Took it apart and lubed it from the back with silicone grease. There is a spring on the back which I figured was all corroded and causing it to jam.


Still wasn't perfect so I lubed it from the outside (both ends of the handle that you pull) and that made a much bigger difference.


Don't bother taking the hatch apart.. just lube it from outside. I used an 'acid brush' which is a small brush with stiff bristles. Pushed the lube as far in as I can and repeated 5x on each side. Got it all gooped up, then wiped off any excess that could get on your hands when using the handle.


It now sticks about 5% of the time. Which I can live with.


Note that if your hatch almost shuts, then opens again, it's probably the handle stuck in the open position. I was ready to diagnose the hatch before I found out the handle was sticking open and causing it to re-open.


If it gets worse, I'll probably spring for a new handle. The design lets dirty water/debris get in and it seems to jam up after a number of years.


Buy a new (not used one) if you can because the hassle of replacing it isn't worth the $100 parts cost for a new one. I don't know for sure that the cost is $100 but someone here said it was (from an online supplier)

bha

Just checked on eBay and they're $85 shipped for a brand new one... if anyone needs one, buy it from here because it's (relatively) cheap!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-1647401193-GENUINE-OEM-HANDLE-OUTSIDE-/161250046771?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258b407333&vxp=mtr

N_Jay

Well. I am starting from a $15 used one.
If it works well it will go in and then I will fix the old one.


I have lobbed it from the out sides a few times. The fist time it seemed to help, and then it stopped helping.


I am wondering id the lube (or age) makes the plastic swell just a tad and caused the friction.


Once I get the old one out, it will get disassembled, cleaned, probably clearanced (so it won't stick again), and be ready to go in when/if the replacement starts to fail.




EDIT:
Received the new/used handle.
It is dirty, but looks good enough and seems to work well.

Now that I have the part in my had, I can see a few possible friction areas that were not evident with the one on the car.
I still think mine was not going to free up without being removed, but I am very sure I can disassemble the part and rework it to not fail again.


There is also a flat area next to the handle where I add put a pushbutton.
What is funny is they made the electrical switch replaceable as if it was the expected failure point.




Still wondering why it is not just a push button!

N_Jay

All fixed with a $15 eBay part.


Took about 45 min, but would have been a lot faster if I was not being extra careful about the clips and if I had known you needed to take the inner hatch handle trim piece off first.


Edit:
Lubing from the outside is only a temporary fix,
The way the handle is made you need to have it inverted to clean and lube it.
I took my sticky handle and gave it a good cleaning with WD40 on all the points where I can see contact , both inside and outside.
To get the outside in a position that will allow you to flush the contact points you need to have it off and upside down.
After you get it nice and clean, you need to lube the outside where the handle turn in the frame. Looking at it upside down it is easy to see.
Upside down will also let any lubricant to seep in to where it is needed.
I used a spray lube with PTFE. I then gave the ends of the rod from the inside a good spray, holding it so the lube would run into the mechanism.
Then wiped it down with a rag and a little brake clean to get the excess lube off, and it is a smooth as new.
Guessing it will work as long as a replacement would.
So, now a have a spare,