M275 V12 Bi-Turbo Platform Technical discussion relating to models sharing the M275 V12 Bi-Turbo (V12 TT). Including SL600, SL65 AMG, CL600, CL65 AMG, S600, S65 AMG.
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DIY Advice on replacing the Radiator in a SL65 (2006)

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Old 05-17-2014, 01:08 PM
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SL65, 427 COBRA (CSX-3127)73 911S, 246GTS (DINO SPYDER), CORNICHE,1962 PORSCHE TWIN GRILLE ROADSTER+
DIY Advice on replacing the Radiator in a SL65 (2006)

Can someone advise on what is involved in replacing the leaking radiator in my SL65?

On the drivers side of the radiator where the large hose connects into the radiator is evidence of dried fluid trails. How does this line connect to the radiator? From a very limited observation angle... It looks like it might turn and snap into a recession???
Is there an O-ring or a seal that might be the problem and NOT the radiator?

I have not taken anything apart but can see that it is very tight space.
I know I can figure it out but if any of you have already been through the process your advice is appreciated. I am tooled up and have mechanical experience. If someone has done this before on any R230 input on where to start would be helpful...

Questions:

1. How long should it take?
2. Is it involved requiring removing any of the ABC/SBC hydraulic lines or AC lines?
3. Do I need to remove the front bumper?
4. Will I lose a lot of trans fluid?

Thanks in Advance!

Last edited by EXECMALIBU; 05-17-2014 at 01:53 PM.
Old 07-11-2014, 06:11 PM
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Did you change your radiator, I'm about to start the same project ??

Last edited by stykshooter; 07-11-2014 at 06:57 PM. Reason: wrong part
Old 08-27-2014, 12:18 PM
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SL65, 427 COBRA (CSX-3127)73 911S, 246GTS (DINO SPYDER), CORNICHE,1962 PORSCHE TWIN GRILLE ROADSTER+
To Remove the Radiator The Front Bumper Must Be Removed on the SL65...

I tried to get the radiator out a week ago but I got to a point where everything looked like it was disconnected but the radiator would not come up and out.

I finally tackled the radiator replacement again yesterday.

Pretty straight forward but be advised that you MUST remove the front Bumper on the SL65 to get to the (4) hidden bolts on the radiator.

There are (2) torx bolts on the passenger (right) side of the radiator about 6 inches from the bottom that hold a bracket for a small pump. Without taking the bumper off it is nearly impossible to see or get to these bolts...

Then there are (2) more 10mm hidden bolts on each side of the radiator accessed from the front but these are covered behind the rubber seals. Although there were cut outs in the rubber these were still hidden and I had to push the rubber aside to finally find them. The Ah Ha moment!

I had the radiator out in about an hour...

The entire job should be about 2+ hours.

BTW the old radiator in not cracked at the hose connection and it looks perfect but it leaks???

Last edited by EXECMALIBU; 08-27-2014 at 02:28 PM.
Old 08-30-2014, 09:42 PM
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Same as mine (SL600) the leak looks like the leak comes from the hose connection but was actually from the radiator. SL 600 had two hidden bolts
Old 08-20-2021, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by EXECMALIBU
I tried to get the radiator out a week ago but I got to a point where everything looked like it was disconnected but the radiator would not come up and out.

I finally tackled the radiator replacement again yesterday.

Pretty straight forward but be advised that you MUST remove the front Bumper on the SL65 to get to the (4) hidden bolts on the radiator.

There are (2) torx bolts on the passenger (right) side of the radiator about 6 inches from the bottom that hold a bracket for a small pump. Without taking the bumper off it is nearly impossible to see or get to these bolts...

Then there are (2) more 10mm hidden bolts on each side of the radiator accessed from the front but these are covered behind the rubber seals. Although there were cut outs in the rubber these were still hidden and I had to push the rubber aside to finally find them. The Ah Ha moment!

I had the radiator out in about an hour...

The entire job should be about 2+ hours.

BTW the old radiator in not cracked at the hose connection and it looks perfect but it leaks???
Thanks for posting your information,

I'm at the same point where you message started, I'll look tonite to find those (2) Torx screws, and the 2nd 10mm screw as I already removed one on the drivers side front holding the stack of condensers together, (there's a total of 2 - 10mm screws under the rubber flaps, RIGHT?)

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