Tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery? This is why you disconnect the battery when doing anything on the electrical system. By connecting the amp output (which I assume is a 1000w amp by the model number) to the subwoofer terminals, you likely shot that 1000w back into the amplifier on it's output side. I'll bet money your factory amp is toast.
"I was installing a Kicker Amp IX1000.1 and for audio input I had wires drawn from rear stock subwoofer. (It always worked for me with my Sony amplifier). I made a mistake when connecting the input wire. Instead of connecting the audio to the Amp input I connected the audio to Amp output. When I did it the audio volume went blank. CD Player/radio and everything else appears to work. But no audio. Mercedes dealer charged me $170 to diagnose and said they could not find the problem. Took it to another mercedes dealer and he charged another hour labor and could not find the problem. At least the second dealer flashed the system and still no audio. Now they want rip the carpeting, pull out the wires and see what went wrong. Is it worth it? I cant believe connecting wires drawn from rear ..."
I think you have that backwards...excessively oiling a K&N filter to the point where the oil covers the hotwire in a MAF will kill it damn near instantly if you don't catch it in time. Experienced this on my old S60R and many Mustang guys (hotwire MAFs as well) have seen it too. Granted, if you don't over-oil, you won't have to worry about it.
Quoted from bernard farquar's post
"I had discounted the possibility of using K&N filters in my 928, due to it's often reported habit of coating the mass airflow sensors with oil, killing them. (only a problem with "flapper" type sensors, not "hot wire" type)"
For the record, and I'll disclaim this by saying I don't have real experience with them, I don't trust any of the ebay sellers that say their ballasts are error free. To produce can-bus compatible HID ballasts for that low of a cost just seems to me that even if they are error-free as they advertise, I doubt they'll last long due to the corners they inevitably had to cut to keep costs down. For a mere $15 added onto a DDM kit, the error eliminator harnesses make the BCM ...
Quoted from bernard farquar's post
"I just got a set of HID bulbs and ballasts from ebay seller "hidny" who was selling the kits as "error free" and not needing the addition of a capacitor. I seem to have gotten one bad ballast, and so at the moment I have one HID and one halogen bulb, as I wait for a response to my issue from the seller. I have been comparing the two sides, and they appear to have identical cutoff points, the right side has the same pattern wedge of light. I fail to see the down side of converting the halogen projector housings to hid instead of the much more involved process described above. I am aware that the hid bulbs and the original H7 bulbs have a differing focal point, but this does not seem to be an issue in the projector housings, as it often is in a standard reflector housing. I forgot to ..."
I paid $108 (not including shipping) for headlamps AND fog lamps with error elminator harnesses, or $54 each. No bi-xenon, because the factory headlamps are not Hi/Lo, there's no need. I can't say your next statement is fair. Given the error cancelling harnesses, the fact that these kits run on the power provided by the factory systems (halogen runs differently than OEM HID), the only benefit to your setup that I see is the bi-xenon. You're not even adding the benefit of ...
Quoted from Tschuss_Bill's post
"jcat Clearly there is a difference of opinion here, that's ok. It gives folks more to chew on in making their own decision. To clarify, for ~$100 you get low beams only(?) and high beams(?), and no bi-xenon, right? To get bi-xenon function and the added benefit of proper (or factory like) voltage and controls to the ballasts (relays, harness etc), one would need to spend a bit more money and commit considerably more time in the conversion. Is that fair? I donít have a comparison of the halogen projector to the hella evox-r. I would suspect the spotty light dipersion that I see in my current halogen set up will improve. Here is a single shot that someone posted of the hella evox-r projector, FYI"
Agreed, I'm personally pretty pleased with this: Averaging 19.9 in my 06 E500 4matic with a leaking right front tire at avg. speed of 37mph. Granted it's only 19mi of driving, but on the after reset screen I show over 1k miles with an avg. of 35ish mph and about 18.5mpg. Considering I tend to have a pretty heavy foot, I couldn't be happier.
Quoted from Benz-O-Rama's post
"That picture was taken after 6 minutes and 7 miles of driving. Take that same picture after a full tank of fuel and report back. My 130K miles 2004 E500 still gets 28MPG highway, if I zero it while I'm cruising at 67mph."
please see my post (in here somewhere) with the cutoff lines with a pnp kit and the factory halogen projectors. Go ahead and take a similar pic (anyone, please) of factory xenon projectors. I guarantee they're no different to the naked eye. Should they be different? Sure, you'd think so. Am I missing something? Maybe. But the difference (which I've seen with my own experienced eyes) is unintelligible. The intent of my post wasn't to **** on you and your opinion, it's ...
Quoted from Tschuss_Bill's post
"I won't buy factory projectors, I'll by E55 replicas. You can get Philips bulbs for under $100 per pair. See my reference in the original post. I don't think the projector math is the same. Why would it be? The bulbs are not configured the same, dimensions etc. You don't need a factory harness to make the conversion, but it is easiest to get the ballasts along with an aftermarket (~$30) bixenon harness setup. I've done a couple conversions, have yet to my w211. If you want it be as good as factory (or even better) in terms of light dispersion and cutoff, throwing HID bulbs in halogen projectors ain't going to do it. But it may be good enough for you. Cheers."
get links, $150 on avg. Or find a used ELM for a few hundred if you're not comfortable with the links.
I might be willing to trade you my burlwood for your dark wood if you can find an easy DIY write up to change it out. I've always thought the black wood would look badass with my light grey interior (ala lexus)
Crazy enough to work?
"Hello again everyone, I recently had an idea to change the one aspect of my car which I like, but could be better. So I am wondering if it is even possible or if anyone has done it before. If so, I would certainly thing about it, if not - no worries. The interior woodgrain color, as seen above, is the darker green "ash" color I believe it's called. It goes well with the black leather seats, but I've always had a thing for the natural burl color that is more the auburn shade. While I know the trim and door structure was enhanced in the 2007 model year to reduce side-crash forces, is it possible to change this out trim? I can foresee it being quite expensive but I was just wondering if it was feasible. Thanks."
the ONLY difference between xenon and non-xenon projectors in the w211 as far as I can tell is the bulb base. You're saving yourself a TON of money and time by not swapping projectors over. Don't forget, you'd also have to get the appropriate factory harnesses and ballasts to connect up to your car's headlamp harnesses. It's not as simple as you're making it seem. DDM sells error eliminators (version 3) by the pair. You need one error eliminator per light, or one pair ...
Quoted from Tschuss_Bill's post
"Do it the right way, use non-modified base bulbs in a projector designed for HID. You'll have a bixenon setup. Suggest retrofit resource for all of this stuff. On W211 the projector swap is a bolt in project, no dremmeling required. If a hundred bucks is all you got towards this car, go for it. I'd spend a little more and do it right."
um....not that i'm in the market...but you're saying you have 19" tires on 18" rims....are they 18's or 19s?
1 year ago in Wheels and Tires
IIRC, to put dynamic headlamps on a car that didn't come stock, you'll need to swap the entire HID/Dynamic headlamp AND wiring harness (with motors/controllers etc.). E-codes will be nearly impossible and EXTREMELY expensive to come by. IMO, not worth it. See my post above. For about $130 including shipping, you can have HID headlamps AND fog lamps. I have a suspicion that the lenses used on the Xenon headlamps and Halogen headlamps are damn near identical, shrouds and ...
Quoted from jcs007's post
"Group, This is my first post for my new love of MB vehicles. My wife's '04 E320 wagon's headlamps have cataracts. The car is equipped with halogen headlamps not HID's. Nor does the car have dynamic headlamps that vary aim with steering. I would be interested in upgrading to HID's. In looking at available features, I would like to add the dynamic headlamps but I am not clear on whether I would also have to add an ECU to control this feature or are the dynamic headlamps "plug-n-play". I am seriously doubting that is the situation. I am also very interested, more so than in HID, to add euro code left-hand drive headlamps. Has anyone looked into this? Thanks for the help. John"
completely OT but some good info here. Might I suggest you pick one of the 1226386192307102460 threads about the red battery message and share your experience.
Quoted from kmlake24's post
"This may be off the topic but I have an 05 E500 that I bought used about 6 months ago. I noticed the first night that the power would surge. This caused all of my lights to flicker, fan motor to pulse and car would seem to run rough at idle. The batteries tested okay.... Aux was all but dead and the main battery seemed fine. They were both original, so I replaced them per the recommendation of the dealership (although I didn't buy them there.... AGM at AutoZone made by Johnson Controls (same as MB's)). I thought that would solve the problem but knew that it may be my voltage regulator..... again, since it could be a dead spot in my alternator and it's almost 8 yrs old, I decided to change the whole unit for approx $150 more than just the regulalator ($200...Napa Auto Parts). Boom.... my ..."
Been a while since I've gotten on here...sheesh I guess FXAutodesign found the 'new thread' button. Anyway, does anyone remember the nitto tire sponsored post at the top of the forum that was there a couple months ago? The one about the new tire they're bringing out and needed testers for? Well I clicked on it out of curiosity one day, figuring hell they're looking for someone to test with a 245/45r17 tire size (stock rims on my 500), so why not? Well, a few days ago I ...
the fogs get hot because it's a small housing with no vent and a glass lens. I bought 35w 4500K kits for both. You WILL need the error eliminators for it to work properly, not throw a code and not flicker. You need one pair of error eliminators (they're type 3, not 3 pairs) per HID kit. Just add it when you're adding the kit to your basket with the drop-down for error eliminators.
Quoted from mhass350's post
"Why do you think the fog lights get hot? Did you go with the 35w or 55w system for your fogs -- you went with the 35w for your low-beams, right? DDM doesn't specifically call out any HiD kits for our eClass, only the w203. I was planning to get two (2) of these, , both in 35W. 1-ea H7 (low-beam) and 1-ea H11 (fogs) in either the 5000k or 6000k -- haven't decided yet. I think my LED city lights from AZN Optics are 5000k white if so, i'll match. Did you/do we need to order anything else such as the error code eliminator -- , and, I am confused by the listing. The error code eliminators is $15 for 3-pairs. Do I need a pair per light (meaning 8 total) or will I have 1-pair (2-ea) leftover since I am only swapping 4-lights? Make sense? Thanks,"
is this serious??? You don't get ANY gain from these, whatsoever. They're a gimmick. MB put those ducts up to the grill to pull cooler air in from outside the engine bay, disconnecting them brings hotter (less dense) charge air and will LOSE power.
Small Blue "supercharger" fans for air intake
"Has anyone installed these on a 5 litre Mercedes? Seems like it would boost acceleration a bit....."
I doubt any manufacturer of cheaper HID kits is actually using can-bus electronics. Hell a pair of Can-Bus festoon bulbs for your plate lights are anywhere $6-$10 depending on supplier, and that's just a few LEDs! The DDM kit has been on my car for a few months now with no issues. Only thing is the fog lenses get pretty hot, I try not to use them in the rain to avoid cracking them due to cold water on the hot lens, though I believe the glass is thick enough that this wont ...
Quoted from btv94's post
"If you can get this to work on your car and jcat also get DDM kit to work on his. It looks like the kit that i got is not working for my car even though it said CAN-BUS. In fact the box that i got it looks exactly the same as the one you got from amazon except the ballasts and there is no error cancelers"
Stock: 349/373 Tuned: 391/418 You'll notice that the stock numbers are NOT that of the 55K. Unless you are talking wheel hp and I'm talking crank hp, at which point your numbers would probably be right.
why spend 1k for 10hp when you can spend the same or less for an ECU and get 40hp?
much cheaper if you guys are comfortable wetsanding by hand. Sandpaper (make sure it's intended for wetsanding!!) 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit then follow it with Meguiar's PlastX polish on the 3m polishing pad (i have the same full size pad for my porter-cable DA polisher so I use that and mask off the fender edges) will give a better, longer lasting result for less $
Had my headlights polished today!
"Before - They looked way worse in person than they do in this pic, but it was the best I could find since I forgot to take a before one. After - The car is filthy and my front bumper doesn't look quite that bad. I took it to Professional Automotive in Lafayette and they only charged $40 to do it. It took them 20-30 minutes and was 100% worth it. I wouldn't be any happier if I had gotten brand new lights installed. Just thought I'd throw this out there in case any of you are thinking about getting it done."
Hey man, thanks for the input. My stepmom also has a w210 e430 4m, great car but like you said some electrical gremlins. Maf, clock display etc. but DIY stuff on these cars doesn't scare me. I hear you on the warranty, I threw one on this w211 the day after I bought it. No reason to screw with it. Even at a couple grand it's cheap insurance, but with this one coming with a 2 yr warranty included it's certainly a plus dependent upon the coverages. I was thinking I might ...
Quoted from xlr8tin's post
"The W210's are solid cars. I had 2. Electrical problems were the main issues I had. Like MAF sensor and other sensors here and there. On my 2002 I had to replace the torque converter, but it wasn't a normal issue. I might run a carfax for this car you are looking at. Maybe offer $9k and se what happens. Miles are good, and I'd prefer a 2002. Warranties are a must on these cars as most other Benzes. I had one on my first one and was a waste of money. Hope this helps a little"