Jim Banville

Does this diagram make any sense?

[IMG][/IMG]

platt-deutsch

Looks like someone is trying to put a remote lock unlock system on a car with no remote central locking system ?

211E350Black

what kind of car you putting it in

Jim Banville

Sorry. It's going in a '92 190E. I have the vacuum central locking system, but it doesn't have remote capabilities.

amdeutsch

Looking at that diagram I'm getting confused.
1) Do the control outputs 1 & 2 occur simultaneously? They would have to based on how you series wired the relays.
2) What is the deal with one relay getting ground and the other one power on pin 87? Don't think you need that.
3) What does the lock control signal look like? Have you checked to see if it is ground, open or 12 VDC on activation and/or its rest state?

E500 Benzo

the easiest (and most primitive way to do this) is to add a power door lock solenoid to the vacuum trunk lock. wire that solenoid up to the remote lock system. there you havei it. that does it... the solenoid controls the trunk lock (mechanically) and the trunk lock in turn controls the vacuum lock system... messy, yes.... easy, hell yes.

thats how i did it on my old 190... it was relatively simple, and it worked nicely. i wish i had some pics to show you what it looked like.

try www.190revolution.net those guys over there used to love this kind of stuff (dont know if all thats changed)

have u tried looking over there?

Jim Banville

Yeah. I lifted the part of the above diagram of the relays and how they connect to one another directly from 190revolution.

Here's a link to the "trunk" method".

Jim Banville

The outputs #1 and #2 "occur" when you press either of the two buttons on the remote. Pressing one caused the "lock control" wire to get 12v. Pressing the other causes the "lock control" wire to get shunted to ground.

"Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. You must program your alarm system to have atleast a 2 second door pulse in order for the locks to work. If the alarm you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this diagram.

There is no external switch (switch is contained in the drivers door lock actuator) or it has three wires not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire always shows continuity to ground. Another always shows constant (+) 12 V DC. The third wire changes, reading continuity to ground or (+) 12 V DC depending on the position of the door locks."