If you have a Mercedes oil question, read this FAQ
02-06-2011, 06:02 PM
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If you have a Mercedes oil question, read this FAQ
There have been a lot of Mercedes oil question threads recently. This is to give an easy way to address them.
Q: What oil should I use?
A: Read your owners manual! It will tell you.
If you drive a fairly modern, gasoline Mercedes, the answer is most likely Mobil 1 0W40.
If you drive a diesel, check your manual. Newer Mercedes diesel cars will likely use Mobil 1 5W40 ESP.
Q: Can I use Mobil 1 5W40 in my gasoline Mercedes?
A: No. This weight is for diesel cars. It says so on the website and the bottle. It meets Mercedes specs, but is meant for diesel cars.
Q: I live outside the US, and Mobil 1 0W40 is either very expensive or very hard to get. Can I use something else?
A: Yes. Outside the US, it may be easier or cheaper to find other MB approved oils (like Fuchs). You can find lists of other approved oils online: http://www.nexttechnology.us/mb/oil.html
Q: I can find Mobil 1 0W40, but... blah blah blah. Should I use something else?
A: No. If you can get Mobil 1 0W40, and it's not crazy expensive, then use it. There is no reason to consider something else unless you live in a country where it is basically unavailable. Mobil 1 0W40 is generally cheaper than any other approved oil, so why consider anything else.
Q: I live in Alaska/Sahara. Should I use a different weight?
A: No. 0W40 is a multiweight oil. That means when cold, it flows like a 0W. This is the "coldest" oil weight available, and means that even in Alaska, it will still flow and won't gum up. The 40 is the operating temperature weight, and basically means the oil is not too thin and not too thick when the car is warmed up. Your engine, when warmed up, runs at 80 C (176 F). Whether you live in Alaska or Sahara, the engine runs at this temperature. So the temperature, season, and location is irrelevant. You shouldn't change your oil weight unless you live somewhere that's hotter than 176 F (you'd be dead).
Q: Should I use specialty oil (Amsoil, Redline, etc.)?
A: No. If the oil is not recommended by Mercedes and doesn't meet specifications, why chance it? Mobil 1 0W40 is cheaper than most specialty oils, is created and backed by the largest company in the US (Exxon Mobil has the largest market cap of any US company), is recommended by top manufacturers (MB, Porsche, etc.), and is an all around good oil.
Q: Can I use something "similar," like 5W30?
A: No. First, 0W40 is the correct weight. It provides better cold and hot protection than 5W30 or 10W30. In other words, it supports a wider range of temperatures than other common oils, which is part of why it's "better."
Second, just because the numbers of the weights are close, doesn't mean the oils are similar. The temperature ranges are fairly close, but oil properties are also largely determined by the additive package, which includes detergents, friction modifiers, etc. Two oils with the same or similar weight may provide totally different protection, in terms of lifespan (miles and age), lubrication, and cleaning because they have different additive packages.
Q: Why can I find Mobil 1 0W40 in 5 quart bulk packs at Walmart, but I have to buy 0W40 in 1 quart bottles at full price?
A: Because 0W40 is better, more expensive oil.
The following is mostly speculative, based on my experience, wild guesses, and things I've read from people who actually are chemical engineers:
When Mobil 1 synthetic was first introduced, it was one of the most expensive and premium oils on the market. Over time, competition emerged from Shell, Valvoline, and others. Mobil 1 apparently reformulated (the additive package of) many of their oils in order to reduce costs and be more competitive. Hence why Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30 is generally the cheapest brand name synthetic oil you can buy and is easily available in 5 quart jugs from Walmart.
To meet the demands of high end car manufacturers, Mobil apparently did not reformulate 0W40 to reduce costs, so it is still a "premium" oil. It is hence recommended by many manufacturers as opposed to other Mobil 1 oils and more expensive. So it's not just a different weight, it's a different quality oil with better, long lasting additive packages.
Q: What oil should I use?
A: Read your owners manual! It will tell you.
If you drive a fairly modern, gasoline Mercedes, the answer is most likely Mobil 1 0W40.
If you drive a diesel, check your manual. Newer Mercedes diesel cars will likely use Mobil 1 5W40 ESP.
Q: Can I use Mobil 1 5W40 in my gasoline Mercedes?
A: No. This weight is for diesel cars. It says so on the website and the bottle. It meets Mercedes specs, but is meant for diesel cars.
Q: I live outside the US, and Mobil 1 0W40 is either very expensive or very hard to get. Can I use something else?
A: Yes. Outside the US, it may be easier or cheaper to find other MB approved oils (like Fuchs). You can find lists of other approved oils online: http://www.nexttechnology.us/mb/oil.html
Q: I can find Mobil 1 0W40, but... blah blah blah. Should I use something else?
A: No. If you can get Mobil 1 0W40, and it's not crazy expensive, then use it. There is no reason to consider something else unless you live in a country where it is basically unavailable. Mobil 1 0W40 is generally cheaper than any other approved oil, so why consider anything else.
Q: I live in Alaska/Sahara. Should I use a different weight?
A: No. 0W40 is a multiweight oil. That means when cold, it flows like a 0W. This is the "coldest" oil weight available, and means that even in Alaska, it will still flow and won't gum up. The 40 is the operating temperature weight, and basically means the oil is not too thin and not too thick when the car is warmed up. Your engine, when warmed up, runs at 80 C (176 F). Whether you live in Alaska or Sahara, the engine runs at this temperature. So the temperature, season, and location is irrelevant. You shouldn't change your oil weight unless you live somewhere that's hotter than 176 F (you'd be dead).
Q: Should I use specialty oil (Amsoil, Redline, etc.)?
A: No. If the oil is not recommended by Mercedes and doesn't meet specifications, why chance it? Mobil 1 0W40 is cheaper than most specialty oils, is created and backed by the largest company in the US (Exxon Mobil has the largest market cap of any US company), is recommended by top manufacturers (MB, Porsche, etc.), and is an all around good oil.
Q: Can I use something "similar," like 5W30?
A: No. First, 0W40 is the correct weight. It provides better cold and hot protection than 5W30 or 10W30. In other words, it supports a wider range of temperatures than other common oils, which is part of why it's "better."
Second, just because the numbers of the weights are close, doesn't mean the oils are similar. The temperature ranges are fairly close, but oil properties are also largely determined by the additive package, which includes detergents, friction modifiers, etc. Two oils with the same or similar weight may provide totally different protection, in terms of lifespan (miles and age), lubrication, and cleaning because they have different additive packages.
Q: Why can I find Mobil 1 0W40 in 5 quart bulk packs at Walmart, but I have to buy 0W40 in 1 quart bottles at full price?
A: Because 0W40 is better, more expensive oil.
The following is mostly speculative, based on my experience, wild guesses, and things I've read from people who actually are chemical engineers:
When Mobil 1 synthetic was first introduced, it was one of the most expensive and premium oils on the market. Over time, competition emerged from Shell, Valvoline, and others. Mobil 1 apparently reformulated (the additive package of) many of their oils in order to reduce costs and be more competitive. Hence why Mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30 is generally the cheapest brand name synthetic oil you can buy and is easily available in 5 quart jugs from Walmart.
To meet the demands of high end car manufacturers, Mobil apparently did not reformulate 0W40 to reduce costs, so it is still a "premium" oil. It is hence recommended by many manufacturers as opposed to other Mobil 1 oils and more expensive. So it's not just a different weight, it's a different quality oil with better, long lasting additive packages.
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02-17-2011, 11:31 AM
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Q: How often should I change my oil?
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
You shouldn't run too far past the FSS recommendation, because even if the oil is rated for more than 10k miles, the filter may be full or the oil may be contaminated with particulates that are too small to filter.
On cars equipped with FSS, changing oil significantly before the FSS says to is basically a waste of money. The days of 3k mile oil changes are generally gone. These were needed on cars with 5 quart oil capacities, non-synthetic oil, paper filters, etc. Mercedes uses 10 quart (roughly) oil capacity, premium synthetic oil, fleece (polyester) filters, and oil monitoring to extend the life of oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is rated for up to 15k miles, so the oil breaking down should not be an issue. Mobil also recommends that you follow the manufacturer's guideline.
In other words, the mechanical engineers at Mercedes who designed and built your engine, as well as the chemical engineers at Mobil, are telling you you don't need to change every 3k to 5k miles, but instead to use FSS. Mercedes wants to keep warranty engine replacements to a minimum, so they are confident that a 10k mile oil interval will not harm the engine. Mobil is telling you that the oil is good for that period, as well. If you think about it, they sell less oil by telling you to change it less often. If there was any reason that Mobil believed it was bad for your car to go 10k miles on one oil change, they would tell you to change it more often so they would sell more oil and make more money.
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
You shouldn't run too far past the FSS recommendation, because even if the oil is rated for more than 10k miles, the filter may be full or the oil may be contaminated with particulates that are too small to filter.
On cars equipped with FSS, changing oil significantly before the FSS says to is basically a waste of money. The days of 3k mile oil changes are generally gone. These were needed on cars with 5 quart oil capacities, non-synthetic oil, paper filters, etc. Mercedes uses 10 quart (roughly) oil capacity, premium synthetic oil, fleece (polyester) filters, and oil monitoring to extend the life of oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is rated for up to 15k miles, so the oil breaking down should not be an issue. Mobil also recommends that you follow the manufacturer's guideline.
In other words, the mechanical engineers at Mercedes who designed and built your engine, as well as the chemical engineers at Mobil, are telling you you don't need to change every 3k to 5k miles, but instead to use FSS. Mercedes wants to keep warranty engine replacements to a minimum, so they are confident that a 10k mile oil interval will not harm the engine. Mobil is telling you that the oil is good for that period, as well. If you think about it, they sell less oil by telling you to change it less often. If there was any reason that Mobil believed it was bad for your car to go 10k miles on one oil change, they would tell you to change it more often so they would sell more oil and make more money.
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Meli Contreras (09-01-2020)
02-17-2011, 02:43 PM
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Thanks for the nice work and the article.
One minor nit to pick - Mobil1 5W-30 is not a diesel specific product. It is for many other types of engines. Just not the one specified by most European manufacturers for their gasoline engines.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_5W-30.aspx
One minor nit to pick - Mobil1 5W-30 is not a diesel specific product. It is for many other types of engines. Just not the one specified by most European manufacturers for their gasoline engines.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_5W-30.aspx
02-17-2011, 03:06 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Also
never use 0w30 or any 30 wt in an AMG engine.
Keep an eye on sales at oreilys etc they just had a $4.99 a qt sale ended late Jan.
Great little write up
Keep an eye on sales at oreilys etc they just had a $4.99 a qt sale ended late Jan.
Great little write up
02-17-2011, 04:23 PM
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2016 E350 4Matic; 2018 GLC300 4Matic; 2005 C55; 2003 360 Modena
Great post and 100% spot-on IMO.
You're gonna get flamed, unfortunately, as this is always a passionate topic. You should have sweetened the pot and added draining vs. sucking method of changing the oil!!!
You're gonna get flamed, unfortunately, as this is always a passionate topic. You should have sweetened the pot and added draining vs. sucking method of changing the oil!!!
02-21-2011, 01:36 PM
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Thanks guys.
OhLord, I need to stock up next time. With two Benzes, I go through probably 30 quarts of the stuff a year, so probably close to $100 saved getting them on sale.
KJB, I debated adding an oil change section, but I figured there are enough writeups already. But to stir things up, same as the oil change intervals, the dealers use an extractor because the engineers designed it that way, not because they're too lazy to lift the car.
I'm curious when a sales guy from Royal Purple or Amsoil will come on and disagree. I know Redline and some other companies make great oil, but for a Mercedes, I'm sticking with Mobil.
OhLord, I need to stock up next time. With two Benzes, I go through probably 30 quarts of the stuff a year, so probably close to $100 saved getting them on sale.
KJB, I debated adding an oil change section, but I figured there are enough writeups already. But to stir things up, same as the oil change intervals, the dealers use an extractor because the engineers designed it that way, not because they're too lazy to lift the car.
I'm curious when a sales guy from Royal Purple or Amsoil will come on and disagree. I know Redline and some other companies make great oil, but for a Mercedes, I'm sticking with Mobil.
Last edited by saintz; 02-21-2011 at 01:40 PM.
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02-21-2011, 01:44 PM
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Q: How often should I change my oil?
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
You shouldn't run too far past the FSS recommendation, because even if the oil is rated for more than 10k miles, the filter may be full or the oil may be contaminated with particulates that are too small to filter.
On cars equipped with FSS, changing oil significantly before the FSS says to is basically a waste of money. The days of 3k mile oil changes are generally gone. These were needed on cars with 5 quart oil capacities, non-synthetic oil, paper filters, etc. Mercedes uses 10 quart (roughly) oil capacity, premium synthetic oil, fleece (polyester) filters, and oil monitoring to extend the life of oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is rated for up to 15k miles, so the oil breaking down should not be an issue. Mobil also recommends that you follow the manufacturer's guideline.
In other words, the mechanical engineers at Mercedes who designed and built your engine, as well as the chemical engineers at Mobil, are telling you you don't need to change every 3k to 5k miles, but instead to use FSS. Mercedes wants to keep warranty engine replacements to a minimum, so they are confident that a 10k mile oil interval will not harm the engine. Mobil is telling you that the oil is good for that period, as well. If you think about it, they sell less oil by telling you to change it less often. If there was any reason that Mobil believed it was bad for your car to go 10k miles on one oil change, they would tell you to change it more often so they would sell more oil and make more money.
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
You shouldn't run too far past the FSS recommendation, because even if the oil is rated for more than 10k miles, the filter may be full or the oil may be contaminated with particulates that are too small to filter.
On cars equipped with FSS, changing oil significantly before the FSS says to is basically a waste of money. The days of 3k mile oil changes are generally gone. These were needed on cars with 5 quart oil capacities, non-synthetic oil, paper filters, etc. Mercedes uses 10 quart (roughly) oil capacity, premium synthetic oil, fleece (polyester) filters, and oil monitoring to extend the life of oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is rated for up to 15k miles, so the oil breaking down should not be an issue. Mobil also recommends that you follow the manufacturer's guideline.
In other words, the mechanical engineers at Mercedes who designed and built your engine, as well as the chemical engineers at Mobil, are telling you you don't need to change every 3k to 5k miles, but instead to use FSS. Mercedes wants to keep warranty engine replacements to a minimum, so they are confident that a 10k mile oil interval will not harm the engine. Mobil is telling you that the oil is good for that period, as well. If you think about it, they sell less oil by telling you to change it less often. If there was any reason that Mobil believed it was bad for your car to go 10k miles on one oil change, they would tell you to change it more often so they would sell more oil and make more money.
Great thread, but I have to add an exception to the highlighted portion.
It should read "On stock (non-modified) engines...."
Anyone that has added performance upgrades such as ECU tunes, supercharger pulley upgrades, etc..., need to change their oil more often than what the FSS triggers.
I'm running over +100hp and +100tq over the stock engine numbers, on my SL600. I change my oil with Mobil-1 0-40 every 5K miles or before every track event, whichever comes first. I also get a Blackstone Labs report every oil change as well, and it looks like my engine is still pristine inside.
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Audi Junkie (05-24-2020)
03-16-2011, 07:34 AM
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Q: Can I change my Mercedes oil with an extractor?
A: Generally, yes. The dealer does.
Some people argue that extractors leave oil behind versus draining. Actually, the opposite is normally true. Refer to the image to see this illustrated. The problem with the drain plug is that it isn't the lowest part of the pan. The pan has to have an indent where the plug is in order to recess and protect the plug. If it didn't, the plug would not be flush with the pan, and the first speed bump to hit the plug would rip it out. Compounding this, there are often additional threads added to the drain plug (on the inside of the pan). This is to help secure the plug more tightly, but it also elevates the "mouth" of the drain plug even higher. As you can see, there is quite a bit of oil that can't drain because it is below the elevated mouth, due to the recess and the extra threading.
An extractor is not hindered by the drain plug design. The extractor tube (at least on engines designed for it) can be pushed to the very bottom of the oil pan. It can therefore remove more oil than the drain plug. As the diagram shows, the extractor is lower (meaning draining more oil) than the mouth of the drain plug.
Compounding this problem for anyone draining at home is that ramps and jack stands angle the car, pushing oil to the back of the pan and away from the drain plug, as well.
This is for cars like most Mercedes that are designed to be extractor drained. It is possible that other engines will block the extractor from reaching the bottom of the oil pan. A simple test is to extract, then open the drain plug, and see if any substantive amount of extra oil comes out.
A: Generally, yes. The dealer does.
Some people argue that extractors leave oil behind versus draining. Actually, the opposite is normally true. Refer to the image to see this illustrated. The problem with the drain plug is that it isn't the lowest part of the pan. The pan has to have an indent where the plug is in order to recess and protect the plug. If it didn't, the plug would not be flush with the pan, and the first speed bump to hit the plug would rip it out. Compounding this, there are often additional threads added to the drain plug (on the inside of the pan). This is to help secure the plug more tightly, but it also elevates the "mouth" of the drain plug even higher. As you can see, there is quite a bit of oil that can't drain because it is below the elevated mouth, due to the recess and the extra threading.
An extractor is not hindered by the drain plug design. The extractor tube (at least on engines designed for it) can be pushed to the very bottom of the oil pan. It can therefore remove more oil than the drain plug. As the diagram shows, the extractor is lower (meaning draining more oil) than the mouth of the drain plug.
Compounding this problem for anyone draining at home is that ramps and jack stands angle the car, pushing oil to the back of the pan and away from the drain plug, as well.
This is for cars like most Mercedes that are designed to be extractor drained. It is possible that other engines will block the extractor from reaching the bottom of the oil pan. A simple test is to extract, then open the drain plug, and see if any substantive amount of extra oil comes out.
Last edited by saintz; 03-16-2011 at 07:52 AM.
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03-25-2011, 01:42 PM
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2012 C250 Coupe
FYI, new w204 c-class. c300 calls for 5W-40 oil. However, I have not been able to find this without ESP. In fact, the dealers use the 5W-40 with ESP on the gasoline engines. I refuse to use this and am sticking with 0w-40...
04-03-2011, 04:24 AM
#11
Genuine Mercedes Oil
Hi
To make life easier as to which engine oil to use in MB vehicles, Mercedes sells genuine MB engine oil with the product name matching the relevant MB sheet number (ie MB 229.5, MB 229.1 etc).
In many markets around the world, Mercedes sells genuine Mercedes engine oil in a range of specs.
According to the MB Australia website, there are 3 MB Oil products: MB 229.5, MB 229.51 and MB 229.1.
MB 229.5 is mainly for petrol engines and selected diesel engines without diesel particulate filters
MB 229.51 is for diesel engines with / without diesel particulate filters and selected petrol engines
MB 229.1 is for older model engines
Hope this is of some help.
To make life easier as to which engine oil to use in MB vehicles, Mercedes sells genuine MB engine oil with the product name matching the relevant MB sheet number (ie MB 229.5, MB 229.1 etc).
In many markets around the world, Mercedes sells genuine Mercedes engine oil in a range of specs.
According to the MB Australia website, there are 3 MB Oil products: MB 229.5, MB 229.51 and MB 229.1.
MB 229.5 is mainly for petrol engines and selected diesel engines without diesel particulate filters
MB 229.51 is for diesel engines with / without diesel particulate filters and selected petrol engines
MB 229.1 is for older model engines
Hope this is of some help.
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04-03-2011, 06:43 AM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Those are
MB spec oils, but mb does not make oil.
Simply MB brand name on somebodies oil can.
Sure you could simplify things and go get screwed at the dealer for every part you buy. But why would you do that?
BTW I posted in the W210 forum
O'reilys has mobil 1 0w40 syn on sale month of April limit 24 per visit $4.99QT
Simply MB brand name on somebodies oil can.
Sure you could simplify things and go get screwed at the dealer for every part you buy. But why would you do that?
BTW I posted in the W210 forum
O'reilys has mobil 1 0w40 syn on sale month of April limit 24 per visit $4.99QT
04-12-2011, 10:55 PM
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A very compelling write up.I've been a away from changing my own oil for a while (bad hip) and the surgeon who recently installed my titanium one says my days of crawling under a car are over,so extractors are now my only option.So can anyone recommend a decent oil extractor? Manual is fine.
TIA
TIA
05-15-2011, 08:21 PM
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2010 C350
Now I am gonna do my oil change and live in new england Its fairly warm now but dont put many miles and not sure if it will be used in the winter but should I still go with 0-40 weight for my 2010 Mercedes C350?
05-17-2011, 09:31 PM
#19
05-20-2011, 06:53 PM
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229.51 spec 0w40...not just for superior engine protection.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...a_M_5W-40.aspx
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...a_M_5W-40.aspx
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Audi Junkie (05-24-2020)
05-21-2011, 10:20 AM
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I think that 0w-40 synthetics,at least ones that meet the 229.51 spec,are tough to find here.IIRC they're available in Europe however.
But just FYI....last January I took my pervious ride (a BMW diesel that uses the same basic oil as 229.51) up to central Quebec (200 miles north of Montreal) and spent a night up there.The car sat all night (13 hours)outside with no battery boost,etc on an *astoundingly* cold night...and when I went to start it at 8AM...when the temp was -31F (I swear to God!)...the thing started like a champ.So even if you live at the top of Mount Washington 5w-30 or 5w-40 oil is gonna be fine (my BMW had 5w-30 on that cold morning).
But just FYI....last January I took my pervious ride (a BMW diesel that uses the same basic oil as 229.51) up to central Quebec (200 miles north of Montreal) and spent a night up there.The car sat all night (13 hours)outside with no battery boost,etc on an *astoundingly* cold night...and when I went to start it at 8AM...when the temp was -31F (I swear to God!)...the thing started like a champ.So even if you live at the top of Mount Washington 5w-30 or 5w-40 oil is gonna be fine (my BMW had 5w-30 on that cold morning).
05-22-2011, 07:41 PM
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Q: What oil should I use?
A: Read your owners manual! It will tell you.
My manual lists 5 different oils that meet 229.5. I use Castrol Euro Formula 0W-30. NewOilAnalysis rates this oil at nearly an 0W-40. One doesn't have to use M1 0W-40.
Castrol Euro Formula can usually be found at AutoZone and PepBoys was carrying it, but that may change, not too sure about it. Castrol IS changing the name(s) of their synthetic oils to Edge with Syntec Technology and Edge with Titanium Technology. The Edge Syntec oils are the same as the "old" Syntec oils, just the new name. Here is the PDS for EwSyntecTech; http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._april2011.pdf
A: Read your owners manual! It will tell you.
My manual lists 5 different oils that meet 229.5. I use Castrol Euro Formula 0W-30. NewOilAnalysis rates this oil at nearly an 0W-40. One doesn't have to use M1 0W-40.
Castrol Euro Formula can usually be found at AutoZone and PepBoys was carrying it, but that may change, not too sure about it. Castrol IS changing the name(s) of their synthetic oils to Edge with Syntec Technology and Edge with Titanium Technology. The Edge Syntec oils are the same as the "old" Syntec oils, just the new name. Here is the PDS for EwSyntecTech; http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._april2011.pdf
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06-05-2011, 10:21 AM
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2012 C250 coupe; 2007 E63 AMG (sold)
