ML63 Long term review?
10-13-2016, 02:35 PM
#51
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2004 Audi A8, 2011 GMC Yukon
Looking to Buy 2007 ML63
I'm looking at a 2007 ML63 with 86K miles on it. Besides the pulleys, and other immediate needs that I should look at taking care of it I decide to buy it?
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-23-2016, 03:37 PM
#52
Member
Any other insight? I am thinking of going from a C55 to a ML63. Similar to the C55, it doesn't seem like there are a lot of owners out there any even less info, aftermarket support etc.
There are about 3 in my city all around 95K - 105K miles. Any owners with that kind of mileage want to chime in re: what to expect?
There are about 3 in my city all around 95K - 105K miles. Any owners with that kind of mileage want to chime in re: what to expect?
10-24-2016, 12:33 PM
#53
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2004 Audi A8, 2011 GMC Yukon
Hey Blacksage - I'm looking at an '08 ML63 for about $22k. Looks like its in great shape and well maintained. Where are the ones in your market priced at? Just want to make sure I am not overpaying. Threads seem to say that they last for a long time without much major. Things to look our for are the idler pulleys. Regular maintenance seems to be the key.
10-24-2016, 01:26 PM
#54
Member
The ones in market all priced below 20K, however, they do not have 86K miles either. I have been looking at cars/trucks with the M156 engine for a while now. There have been issues with the head bolts, gaskets, but they seem to affect a small part of the population. There is a pewter one in my area with about 105K on the clock priced at $15.9K, the other two had about 95K @ $17.5K and 98K @ $19.9K
HTH
HTH
10-25-2016, 03:22 AM
#55
My 2009 has 86k miles - funny that it's the same mileage. Nothing really major has gone wrong with mine, but that being said, here's some things I have changed (owned 2 years now):
Alternator (should have replaced only VR, but replaced entire unit)
Battery (I put in an AGM, probably saved another battery replacement because the alternator went out after and deep-discharged the AGM. Still fine now after several months)
All Bushings and Upper Control Arms (there are a lot of bushings...)
Radiator
Headlights (bizarre, both parking lamps melted - might fix, haven't decided yet, new units are about 1300 USD to replace. Also D1S bulbs both failed this week... replacing with Osram Night Breakers)
Brakes - upgraded to ceramic, feel much better and not overheating now as before
Air Shock (only one, replaced with used unit)
Serpentine Belt
Idler Pulley
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer - leaks inside. Probably not hard to fix, just haven't yet.
Lower Control Arms
Computer STAR work - need to remove speed constraints on adjustments made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link
PS Pump - a bit noisy, could need flushing - was quiet before radiator, so could indicate contamination or wrong fluid added
Not disappointed with the truck. It performs well enough when needed, which is pretty often. Major systems are fine.
Alternator (should have replaced only VR, but replaced entire unit)
Battery (I put in an AGM, probably saved another battery replacement because the alternator went out after and deep-discharged the AGM. Still fine now after several months)
All Bushings and Upper Control Arms (there are a lot of bushings...)
Radiator
Headlights (bizarre, both parking lamps melted - might fix, haven't decided yet, new units are about 1300 USD to replace. Also D1S bulbs both failed this week... replacing with Osram Night Breakers)
Brakes - upgraded to ceramic, feel much better and not overheating now as before
Air Shock (only one, replaced with used unit)
Serpentine Belt
Idler Pulley
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer - leaks inside. Probably not hard to fix, just haven't yet.
Lower Control Arms
Computer STAR work - need to remove speed constraints on adjustments made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link
PS Pump - a bit noisy, could need flushing - was quiet before radiator, so could indicate contamination or wrong fluid added
Not disappointed with the truck. It performs well enough when needed, which is pretty often. Major systems are fine.
10-28-2016, 11:42 AM
#56
Member
My 2009 has 86k miles - funny that it's the same mileage. Nothing really major has gone wrong with mine, but that being said, here's some things I have changed (owned 2 years now):
Alternator (should have replaced only VR, but replaced entire unit)
Battery (I put in an AGM, probably saved another battery replacement because the alternator went out after and deep-discharged the AGM. Still fine now after several months)
All Bushings and Upper Control Arms (there are a lot of bushings...)
Radiator
Headlights (bizarre, both parking lamps melted - might fix, haven't decided yet, new units are about 1300 USD to replace. Also D1S bulbs both failed this week... replacing with Osram Night Breakers)
Brakes - upgraded to ceramic, feel much better and not overheating now as before
Air Shock (only one, replaced with used unit)
Serpentine Belt
Idler Pulley
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer - leaks inside. Probably not hard to fix, just haven't yet.
Lower Control Arms
Computer STAR work - need to remove speed constraints on adjustments made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link
PS Pump - a bit noisy, could need flushing - was quiet before radiator, so could indicate contamination or wrong fluid added
Not disappointed with the truck. It performs well enough when needed, which is pretty often. Major systems are fine.
Alternator (should have replaced only VR, but replaced entire unit)
Battery (I put in an AGM, probably saved another battery replacement because the alternator went out after and deep-discharged the AGM. Still fine now after several months)
All Bushings and Upper Control Arms (there are a lot of bushings...)
Radiator
Headlights (bizarre, both parking lamps melted - might fix, haven't decided yet, new units are about 1300 USD to replace. Also D1S bulbs both failed this week... replacing with Osram Night Breakers)
Brakes - upgraded to ceramic, feel much better and not overheating now as before
Air Shock (only one, replaced with used unit)
Serpentine Belt
Idler Pulley
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer - leaks inside. Probably not hard to fix, just haven't yet.
Lower Control Arms
Computer STAR work - need to remove speed constraints on adjustments made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link
PS Pump - a bit noisy, could need flushing - was quiet before radiator, so could indicate contamination or wrong fluid added
Not disappointed with the truck. It performs well enough when needed, which is pretty often. Major systems are fine.
If you don't mind...a ballpark figure for prices would be great.
10-28-2016, 12:22 PM
#57
That's a bit tough but I'll try. The reason is that I'm in a dissimilar country that where I imagine you are in, and parts and labor are likely very much different. Availability too... so it may be a wash.
Alternator - I think I paid just under $500 for a replacement and installation. Alternators can be more money of course, and the regulator was probably all I needed - should have checked it first for about $45 (I think).
Battery - I'm pretty sure I paid about $400 on a good Bosch AGM. Pricey.
All Bushings - Probably I spent $400 or so on parts - the transaxle bushings were the most expensive if I recall. Labor was maybe $300? Sorry - guessing here.
Upper Control Arms - couple hundred, not too much.
Radiator - I paid $350 with installation.
Headlights - Night Breakers are $170 USD per pair. You can get stock D1S units for about $50- $80 per pair for Osram. MB price is much more.
Brakes - EBC Red Stuff was $95 for two wheels, sensors were 7 bucks each, rear pads maybe 60 bucks. I did resurface discs (I know, not allowed) as they were still pretty good, but will change them next time around. Labor was not too much - total maybe $200 or so for all.
Air Shock - seems like I paid $450 with installation for a used front air shock.
Serpentine Belt, Idler Pulley - totally cannot recall. Not too much though, maybe couple hundred?
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer -
Lower Control Arms - These suckers are more money. $600 or so each, then probably $100-$200 for installation.
Computer STAR work - made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link - Not sure yet - this could be expensive or cheap depending on what I replace or how I do it. Hasn't really bothered me, but I'm sure I'd love it once I fix it. Telescope works, up and down just grinds.
PS Pump - no idea yet - I'll try flushing first and probably will budget $500-$1000 for this if needed. If it's $499 or below I'll feel lucky.
Other small-ish problems with it, but I bought it in a bit rough shape and figured on fixing it. A better strategy would be to get a nice garaged ML63 from a real old lady with a garage. Not likely... my first chore was replacing wheels because the gentleman who had it before me destroyed the AMG 21 inch rims. I tried to save them but don't like to drive on welded wheels at speed so I'm on aftermarket 20s now. I'd go back into stock 21s if I ever find a decent deal, or next tire change maybe I'll get some nicer wheels, as the knockoff set I'm on don't feel the same as the broken set I removed. Saddest part of my car right now.
None of the stuff above was done at the dealer. I cannot justify their prices for the age and condition of the car. I guess I have another $2500 to sink into it without wheels and tires in the next couple months.
Alternator - I think I paid just under $500 for a replacement and installation. Alternators can be more money of course, and the regulator was probably all I needed - should have checked it first for about $45 (I think).
Battery - I'm pretty sure I paid about $400 on a good Bosch AGM. Pricey.
All Bushings - Probably I spent $400 or so on parts - the transaxle bushings were the most expensive if I recall. Labor was maybe $300? Sorry - guessing here.
Upper Control Arms - couple hundred, not too much.
Radiator - I paid $350 with installation.
Headlights - Night Breakers are $170 USD per pair. You can get stock D1S units for about $50- $80 per pair for Osram. MB price is much more.
Brakes - EBC Red Stuff was $95 for two wheels, sensors were 7 bucks each, rear pads maybe 60 bucks. I did resurface discs (I know, not allowed) as they were still pretty good, but will change them next time around. Labor was not too much - total maybe $200 or so for all.
Air Shock - seems like I paid $450 with installation for a used front air shock.
Serpentine Belt, Idler Pulley - totally cannot recall. Not too much though, maybe couple hundred?
Need to do:
Rear Window Washer -
Lower Control Arms - These suckers are more money. $600 or so each, then probably $100-$200 for installation.
Computer STAR work - made at over 120 km/h
Steering Column up/down Adjuster Link - Not sure yet - this could be expensive or cheap depending on what I replace or how I do it. Hasn't really bothered me, but I'm sure I'd love it once I fix it. Telescope works, up and down just grinds.
PS Pump - no idea yet - I'll try flushing first and probably will budget $500-$1000 for this if needed. If it's $499 or below I'll feel lucky.
Other small-ish problems with it, but I bought it in a bit rough shape and figured on fixing it. A better strategy would be to get a nice garaged ML63 from a real old lady with a garage. Not likely... my first chore was replacing wheels because the gentleman who had it before me destroyed the AMG 21 inch rims. I tried to save them but don't like to drive on welded wheels at speed so I'm on aftermarket 20s now. I'd go back into stock 21s if I ever find a decent deal, or next tire change maybe I'll get some nicer wheels, as the knockoff set I'm on don't feel the same as the broken set I removed. Saddest part of my car right now.
None of the stuff above was done at the dealer. I cannot justify their prices for the age and condition of the car. I guess I have another $2500 to sink into it without wheels and tires in the next couple months.
