benzdude

I just installed a Morimoto H7 HID kit + Canbus harness into my 2011 C300 and I am experiencing some DRL, eyelid led flicker and passenger side hid ignition delay. I was under the impression that this kit was solid for W204's.

Here is a video, Can anyone tell me what is going on?

The first attempt is with DRL's off in the dash option. The second attempt (00:55) is with DRL's on.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5M9...amM/edit?pli=1

pcsgrp

I installed HIDs on my 2014 ml350 and the problems are driving me crazy. I have cambus ballasts bot with and withour error correctors. Sometimes I can go for several weeks without any issues with misfiring or flicker but if there is a temp change or drop, I get the problem. I have tried adding the correctors without success. I also checked all the connections and they appear to be good. I ordered two ballasts form different company, one came in dead and the other worked ok but hat one is now giving me some issues on colder mornings (inthe 50's) I am just so frustrated because I wanted them OEM but no dealers seemed to have them on the cars. The guy who installed them initially said that he was getting variations on the voltage driving the lights and there were differences between the sides. I read that the car "learns" the lighting voltage but if that is the case, why would they be problem free last night and then give me issues in the morning?

Badassml350

hey guys i just wanted to add to this that i put xenon depot with Phillips bulbs and their cancelers/harness in my jeep which i believe has the same canbus as our ml's... they were flawless and looked awesome..... i sold my old kit... they are a little pricey so im hesitant if all of these kits are having so much trouble

pcsgrp

I think my issue may have been with the connections to the h7 plug where the wires go to the ballast. I ordered a set of bulbs with a plug not just little connectors, and I have been told by the company that the canbus ballast should also work so when they arrive I will give them a try. If they don't based on your experience I may try the xenon depot kit you picked up

Badassml350

the xenon depot kit had real connectors not spade terminals it was a very high quality kit

pcsgrp

I think that is the issue. I am awaiting 5k bulbs with real connectors rather than the spade terminals. I bet I got some oxidation or movement on the spade connectors and that was enough to do me in. What was the website for the xenon depot, I couldn't find it

Badassml350

not sure if i can post that since they arent a vendor.... i guess pm me?

opasha

Hey guys, I have the Kensun 55w 6000k H7 kit: . These had flickering issues, and I thought about ordering the Error Cancellors for them ( ), but I didn't even bother to order those because I wasn't sure if they would work or not. I currently have Philips Diamond Vision 5000k H7 bulbs both in the high beam and low beam installed. They look whiter and a tad brighter. The only issue is they are just as dim as the stock OEM halogen bulbs.

Any updates on your xenondepot kits? I was considering this http://www.xenondepot.com/H7-HID-Kit...ID-p/xt-h7.htm in 5000K. Let me know, thanks!

giligoulu

I'm curious if anyone has tried the Xenon Depot H7 kit too. They are having a 10% sale for 24hrs.

alphm

Has anyone found a hid kit that really works without any headache ?

opasha

Yes. I use this by OPT7: .

You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly:
You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).

I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case: , but I don't think they are needed because the resistor is also anti-flicker. We had already installed the ant-flicker wire with the HID setup before realizing that we needed a resistor to fix everything so we just left the cancellor installed.

So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.

I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.

This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first: (I had originally used this but sent it back because I had no idea of the resistor harnesses). Their bulb quality might be better and they have Amazon Prime and a phone number. Opt 7 has no phone number so it's hard to contact them unless you just email their sales department.

In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.

eggyacid

so if you buy the Kensun kit, you would need to buy the "HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)" right? The Opt7 comes with this and Kensun does not which would have to purchase. I just returned my Opt7 35W and I'm going to get the 55W instead so I would probably go with Kensun kit you mentioned.

55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k
Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7
HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & An​ti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand)
2 Pcs H7 HID Xenon Conversion Light Holder Adapter for Mazda 3

Am I ready to do this over again? the bulb was never firmly attached, I still can't find a good solution for bulb attachment

opasha

Yes, but, if I were you, first install without the Anti-Flicker canceller because the way the resistor is made - that should be automatically taken care of because it is using the factory MERCEDES wire harness. Make sure you have your original wire harness that was used for the halogens. Call Kensun, they will explain it to you.

Also, you don't need the mazda adapters...They are the exact same but it's MUCH easier just to take the metal piece that holds the mercedes bulb in place and run the hid h7 bulb through it until the metal piece lines up directly behind the black plastic of the bulb. That's what my friend did and it fits perfectly this way without needing adapter. If you can't figure this out, then I guess using those plastic adapters is fine. This is what the mercedes metal piece looks like: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...jL._AA160_.jpg

Also, guys, you can do this on your own. You don't need to remove the bumper at all for the low beams. That's just how stupid mechanics make money off of you. My friend showed me...inside the wheel wheel, there is a plastic cover. Remove the plastic rivet with a plyer and then just push or pull the plastic cover up or down for it to pop right out (I forget which direction)...it's that simple. This gives you complete access to the low beam housing.

eggyacid

Thanks Opasha, keep us up to date if you experience any flickr issues... according to the thread, most kit starts to flickr after few weeks.. Mine did after about 2 weeks.

I'm going to order the Kensun kit you mentioned above and give it a try

opasha

I also ordered your 35W kit as a back-up solution- we tried it first after removing the 55W ballast and it flickered constantly on one side when we were trying to set it up before using the resistors. With the resistors and the 55W kit, I have had zero issues since my last post. I got these installed almost a month ago. Both low beams and high beams work flawlessly. The 5000k from OPT 7 is pure white and makes the car look phenomenal. I was driving in my X5 from a distance and my mother was driving her ML350 (with these HIDs) and I was shocked at how amazing the car looked with the HIDs, OEM lower DRL LEDs, and the canbus parking bulbs I mentioned ( - they have the best look trust me, they're the brightest and pure xenon from all the bulbs I tried without throwing an error codes - the left one threw an error code one time but the car got used to it after 1-2 later engine starts and completely went away and never returned). Don't go for 6000k or think that you will get a yellow ouput because it's 55W. 6000k will remain bluer and make your car look a bit aftermarket despite what anyone tells you. Also, the whole point of 55W is to get maximum lumen output. There is a nice blue hue every time you start the car just like Bi-Xenon cars. The same happens with the high beam. I find that the high beam takes about 2-3 seconds to light up completely changing from that really light blue to complete pure white. However, once on, the output is amazing. From all the reading I did on these forums and my research (I did a lot), NO ONE tried resistors and people shot down my idea regarding them, lol. Resistors make a big difference because it completely fools the car into thinking the power output/wiring is OEM. That's the one advantage with the Kensun harness...they premade the resistor for you so you don't have to splice your original wires (thankfully).

alphm

Thank you Opasha for your help I just ordered and looking forward to getting them in . I will let you know how it works out . Have a great weekend !!

opasha

You are very welcome, buddy. Let me know how it goes. I'll do my best to guide you guys from there, but everything I outlines is pretty straightforward and should work without any issues. If the Kensun lights fail, then definitely order the same Opt7 lights like me, but I think you'll be A ok because of the resistor setup.

pcsgrp

I used the HIDRUS kit with the canbus ballast. I had to use an error corrector on the right side because I had one non fire. However, I believe the issue was the connection between the factory H7 connector and the spade connectors that came with the bulbs. I picked up a pair of H7 male connectors and then put on connectors the size of the spade connectors form the lights (they are smaller than the oem ones on the lights) Made a good connection with the male H7 and held them together with zip ties. I haven't removed the right side error corrector because it is working and I really don't want to mess with it. HIDRUS told me I don't need them.


I tried those thin resisters but they ran so hot it melted the plastic cover! This setup up seems to work well. I may take the right side error corrector out of the loop (only a 5 minute job since I Velcro them and the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing.

opasha

The Kensun resistor setup is different than resistor splicing. It's pre-configured so you can keep them away from problem areas where you would expect great heat build up. Traditional resistors are just a piece of metal that splices straight into your factory wiring - this splicing causes a lot of heat from all the reading I've done. I'm glad you figured out a setup that works for you, but I think everyone should stick to a plug and play symmetrical setup that does not cause errors. That's why I bothered to try what I did and post it.

Everyone else...please post back your results regarding the Kensun resistors. If the Kensun 55W kit gives you issues (through some bad luck), go for the OPT7. My lights are running great; they are powerful like OEM bi-xenons for the lumen output without being obnoxious/troublesome to oncoming traffic. This was my biggest concern and thankfully no issues whatsoever.

pcsgrp

My setup was totally plug and play. I found that the spade connectors that came with the lights were narrower than the female connector on the OEM harness. Unfortunately, after about two or three months, they managed to move a little and lose contact. I thought I had a ballast problem or some other problem never thinking it was a simple mechanical connection electrical issue (had a similar problem with a mechanical connection on my motorcycle fuel injection system). To solve that problem I picked up male H7 connectors on ebay and went to radio shack to get some female connectors the same size as the spade connectors on the lights. Connected them to the wire end of the H7 connectors with a mechanical connector and to make sure that the H7 male connector didn't move at all, just put a zip tie around both the OEM connector and the H7male connector. As I said, before I figured out it was a connection issue, I installed an error corrector on the right side since it didn't fire up once. Because every time you take out the dust cap to look inside you manage to move around the wires and that was enough to cause a poor contact. I should have also mentioned that the spade connector were not only a little narrower than the OEM female connector that plugs into the OEM bulb but it is also thinner so the connection is not all that good. My last car had one of those plastic connectors that plugged into the OEM connector behind the headlight but this one had those spade connectors. One issue I did have was getting the metal clip to fit correctly on the back of the HID bulb when it gets seated into the headlight housing. If it looks like it is on backwards it is on correctly. I also picked up a set of clips on ebay which have a slit on the bottom so it makes it easier to put together. Be careful when you put on the cap after you run the wires thru the hole that you don't pull or rotate the wires that are connected to the back of the HID bulb. I found that it is easy to move the clip that holds the light bulb so it can rotate counterclockwise a little and it really screws up the headlight seating in the housing and aim.

opasha

Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the detailed information. I'm sure it will help people once they try to figure out how to seat the bulbs. My friend just used the oem metal piece - popped it out and brought it through behind the hid bulb correctly and it popped right in perfectly. I don't remember the exact way he did it, but he showed me the metal piece and it resembles the one I posted about 3 posts back.

pcsgrp

I used both of the bulb holders but kept with the original. Due to the individual wires I was able to run them thru the hole so when I added the H7male connector I did it as one piece. With the other end connectors that come with kits that use something like a H11 bulb or a 9006 or similar, that connector is to big to fit thru that square hole on the original H7 OEM clip that holds the bulb. In that case, you have to go with the clip that has the opening. Of course, you can just cut and splice the wires but that just adds another connection to possibly go bad

opasha

Agreed, the OEM holders work best; that's why we used them. My friend is really good with cars so he helped and made this whole process smooth. I'm so happy that the HIDs work without errors. I'll take some pics of my 2014 X5 with my mother's 2014 ML350 side by side when I get a chance to show you the beam output.

Kaasmann

What is HID? Is that the same as Bi-Xenon?

opasha

HID is High Intensity Discharge lighting. It is essentially the same light output, but the structure of the lighting is different. HIDs have 2 separate bulbs - one for high beam, one for low beam. Bi-Xenon has only one Xenon bulb used for two functions, high and low beam. A little solenoid-operated shutter lifts when high beam is selected, exposing the entire bulb. That's why, when people such as ourselves don't get the Bi-Xenon, we go for HID kits to match or customize the look of our vehicle.

In my honest opinion, the 5000k 55W look is the best/closest to factory OEM pure white Xenons. The lumen output is amazing. Everyone comments on my mother's ML350 lights all the time now.