Nice Ride

Is the W221 process in the video the same on the W222?

Nice Ride

Anyone? I know that most people just go to the dealer for everything. I personally like to some basic stuff on my own.

I always do Oil Changes, Brake Flush, Radiator flush etc. On these cars what you can do is very limited. So I'm left with Oil Changes, Brakes, Rotors, Brake Flush.
Any info will be appreciated. There must be some shady tree mechanics that enjoy doing some of the basic stuff...

Thanks

ItalianJoe1

Yep, it's just basic brakes. 222 is almost identical to the 221 stuff, just bigger 2-piece rotors. Don't drop them or lift them by the center hub, but it's nothing special. Replace the caliper bolts as they are one-time use.

Nice Ride

Thanks for the response!

Would you happen to know if you need to enter maintenance mode through the DIC so the rear calipers retract to do the Pads and Rotors? I remember reading this somewhere...

Also, I usually do a brake flush every 2 to 3 years on all my vehicles. I use the MOTIVE kit, works great! The only problem I found is that for some reason there is a screen on the MC so you cannot suction out the reservoir first before the flush. I don't see any way to remove the screen..... I usually suction out the old fluid first then fill with fresh followed by the Bleeding procedure. Is this only on the 222 or is it standard on MB. This is by first MB.

Thanks again!

Nice Ride

On the 2014 222 S-Class Sport Package, I think they have 1 piece rotors. Isn't the 2 Piece on the S63?

ItalianJoe1

Yeah the rears have to be released before pad replacement, through the maintenance menu or via Xentry.

The little screen cup should just lift out. But there's not that much room to put a hose down into the bottom of the bottle to suck fluid out.

ItalianJoe1

I've done them on S550s, not just AMG cars.

http://www.ebay.com/p/Mercedes-W222-...-72/1030199499

It doesn't look like a dramatic 2-piece, but it still has a floating center. Gotta treat it with a little more respect than solid rotors, that's all.

Nice Ride

Yup, strange that it is blocked by more plastic. I bleed most of it out, then I do a fill and flush. Just have to be careful not to let it get low and air in the system. I know you can use the Xentry to activate the ABS to flush properly... I'm not too worried for the small amount, eventually it will be mixed with the line fluid and the MC res.

Is the Xentry the only way to get the ABS to cycle for an automated flush?

Nice Ride

They have directional vain's? Never really checked... Also, anyone use pads that have less dust but are recommended by MB if such a set exists...

Nice Ride

Found them for $143-
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/mercede...art_name=rotor

ItalianJoe1

I don't think they are directional, the part # is the same for both sides.

MB doesn't have an optional pad here in the US, in another market they may use different compounds. But you could always try an aftermarket pad and see what results you get.

apsdop

In my entire life I have never replaced brakes and rotors on a car that has 25,000 miles. Supposedly I need to replace them on this car.

When I ask why he cannot just replace brakes he says you cannot do that on a Mercedes or you will get vibrations when braking and of course -- CANNOT resurface the rotors

Also claims that on an S Class 25,000 miles is usually what you get out of brakes and rotors.

This sounds ridiculous. First (and last time) I ever owned a mercedes, but never had this in all my other luxury cars.

Is this right??? $1900 for brakes and rotors ?!?!?

jfz219

Dealership service is less expensive in flyover country. My S550 required pads only at 55,000miles. Total cost under $500 for all four brakes. As long as the pads don't score or warp the rotors, the rotors usually stay in spec.

ItalianJoe1

We see 217/222 cars needing brakes as soon as 10K miles, depends on driver and conditions. With the traffic here it's not unusual at all. Yes the rotors are horrendously expensive, consider buying online instead of paying full dealer markup.

You can almost always put pads on the old rotors at least once, with no real adverse effect. If you have slightly warped rotors though, you will notice it more with the new pads, as they wear in and build up more pad material on the high spots that were already there.

apsdop

I think I'm sticking to brakes only with no rotors. Hopefully the dealer doesn't "fix it" so that perform poorly on purpose. Realistically only needs to last another 20K miles or so and then I can give this nightmare of a car back

Or better yet -- is there really a downside of getting brakes/rotors at a Midas?

Socalsteve

Nightmare of a car because it needs pads and rotors? All German cars are the same. The recommendation is ALWAYS to replace rotors with pads. ALWAYS. Every German car manufacturer.

Call any BMW, Porsche, Audi or VW dealer. They will all tell you the exact same thing. 25k miles isn't bad. Try owning a Cayenne or Touraeg. You may see 15k miles before the pads AND rotors need to be replaced.

High end German cars are high end for a reason. The tolerances are very narrow. And their performance is stupendous. These things go together.

You are driving a 449 hp vehicle that weighs almost 2.5 tons. My suggestion to you is to replace pads and rotors. Take it to an independent shop if you think the dealership prices are too high, but at a minimum...follow the recommended specs.

Your life could depend on it.

Good luck! Maybe next time you'll buy American or Japanese. German cars are not for you.

apsdop

Yes a nightmare of a car because the brakes started screeching 9K miles in and I've had to live with that sound for the last 8 months; followed by non-stop maintenance requirements that are not inexpensive.

But you are absolutely correct - I'm going back to my Japanese Lexus LS. At least there I know when I get my car I'm not stuck with an additional $5K in maintenance over 24-30 months.

My LS's were powerful cars that weighed a bunch too. Yet somehow they never required rotors even at a 50K mile mark. Moreover, when I needed to change brakes they were reasonably priced.

I understand that many folks here think it is some sort of honor/privilege to drive a Mercedes -- the dealer/service people sure think that way too -- but it is a car. And only marginally nicer than my LS was. The bottom line here is that when you make a deal on a lease you need to budget 15-20% more for maintenance items that don't exist on an LS or a Jaguar or even a BMW (since they pay for your brakes)

Socalsteve

I'd love to know how you spent $5k in maintenance over the last 30 months? How many miles have you driven in that time? What type of driving was it ( freeway, city or stop and go )? Where did you have your vehicle serviced and did you buy the pre-paid maintenance package? Mine was $1,700.00 for 36 months ( 3 servicing ).

Even the 3 911's I owned were nowhere near that amount in maintenance costs.

I'll never dispute if you think an LS is as nice as an S Class. We all have certain levels and standards that we are comfortable with. If you feel a Japanese car is only marginally less than a German car, that is your right.

apsdop

I'm 16 months in and 25K miles. I had prepaid for the 2 maintenances (which I think was $1000). Have had to do 2 alignments ($400). Brakes/Rotors are $1900. That's $3300 and I still have 14 months to go. Now I won't actually end up spending $5K because I'm not going to fix the brakes there or do a non-prepaid maintenance, but if you were a yes-man and did what they told you, I'd easily get there.

Mind you, I was told I NEEDED to replace the brakes and rotors when the car started screeching at 9K miles.

P.S. The Lexus LS was just as quiet as this S Class, S Class is a bit smoother though and has more toys/features. Side note - I have an E Class as loaner and my wife's Volvo drives better than this E Class.

ItalianJoe1

At 9k miles the brakes and rotors were still under warranty....

As above, if the noise is bothering you, rotors may be necessary. I've never seen a properly done brake job make noise, but it's possible.

There is no way for the dealer to "fix it to not perform properly", whatever that means. If you need brakes, you change them. It's a wear item. There are cars out there that are driven mildly and the brakes last the term of the lease. What sets these big german cars apart, is you can throw them around like a much smaller/lighter car and it will still perform. The price you pay is that you go through consumables at an alarming rate and they aren't cheap.

Buy new MB rotors online and have an independent shop install them, if you are trying to save. Dealer markup is insane, but that's no reason to use sub-par components on a $100k car.

Nice Ride

Early on I found the OEM parts, not that expensive if you ask me.
Found them for $143-
http://www.mbdirectparts.com/mercede...art_name=rotor

1guitar

I think you might want to double check your information on the "one time" usage of the caliper bolts. I have the MB factory repair instructions and it doesn't say anything to the affect that the caliper bolts are one-time use or throw away bolts. They do mention that the proper torque is 250 Ft. Lbs., wish I had an air drill instead of a breaker bar. Good luck.

ItalianJoe1

If it doesn't say specifically, you still need to reference the WIS document on fasteners. The factory caliper bolts have encapsulated sealant on them, and any bolt like that is one-time use as the sealant activates when installed the first time only, and is no good to re-use.

@rt

Hi,

I tried to search through google as well as this forum. How to properly access that maintenance mode for rear calipers to retract? And it is only for rear calipers that must be done through this maintenance mode? front calipers you can push in manually, correct? All i found is this pdf from other thread. But I think this is for reseting the service light...

ItalianJoe1

Once you're in that menu with the service reset, there's an option to release the rear calipers as well. It is only for the rear, front are normal.