Service B, engine oil, stairing wheel vibrates
01-13-2005, 10:50 AM
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2001 E320
Service B, engine oil, stairing wheel vibrates
Hi, I would really appreciate you guys recommandation/suggestion on this.
I bought my 2001 E320 with sports pack (43k miles) from a dealer about 2 months ago and was told that the vehicle was still under MB factory warrenty. Recently I discovered that it is not but the dealer is willing to do the next service B for free of charge (eventhough they have to pay for it through a guy who works at MB service center but does it on the side on weekends) but the problem is few days after I bought the car I realized the engine oil was low (when it was reading 4,800 miles before service B) I added about 1.5 qt. of Mobil 10w-40 and it gave me 6300 miles for service B. Currently, 5,700 for service B, I found out the last time oil was changed in this car was at 35k miles, now oil looks kinda black and i'm not sure how it's supposed to look but to me it looks kind of dirty. I drive in the city about 50-90 miles per week (not much!) My question to you guys based on my senario:
1) How often do I need my oil changed?
2) Do I really need service B if the car runs smooth, can I just change my oil and filter from a workshop with Mobil 0w-40 which is what MB recommands?
3) Car is required to read 500 miles or less for service B for the dealer to do it for free, at this point do you think I should wait or just have the oil changed and deal with the dealer later?
4) My stairing wheel vibrates, does anyone know why?
5) My friends tell me that I should warm up the car before driving, is it necessary? If so, how what is the normal temperature to start driving?
Thank you!
I bought my 2001 E320 with sports pack (43k miles) from a dealer about 2 months ago and was told that the vehicle was still under MB factory warrenty. Recently I discovered that it is not but the dealer is willing to do the next service B for free of charge (eventhough they have to pay for it through a guy who works at MB service center but does it on the side on weekends) but the problem is few days after I bought the car I realized the engine oil was low (when it was reading 4,800 miles before service B) I added about 1.5 qt. of Mobil 10w-40 and it gave me 6300 miles for service B. Currently, 5,700 for service B, I found out the last time oil was changed in this car was at 35k miles, now oil looks kinda black and i'm not sure how it's supposed to look but to me it looks kind of dirty. I drive in the city about 50-90 miles per week (not much!) My question to you guys based on my senario:
1) How often do I need my oil changed?
2) Do I really need service B if the car runs smooth, can I just change my oil and filter from a workshop with Mobil 0w-40 which is what MB recommands?
3) Car is required to read 500 miles or less for service B for the dealer to do it for free, at this point do you think I should wait or just have the oil changed and deal with the dealer later?
4) My stairing wheel vibrates, does anyone know why?
5) My friends tell me that I should warm up the car before driving, is it necessary? If so, how what is the normal temperature to start driving?
Thank you!
03-11-2005, 04:12 AM
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2003 C230 Coupe
now oil looks kinda black and i'm not sure how it's supposed to look but to me it looks kind of dirty.
Oil color is not an indication of its current qualities.
I drive in the city about 50-90 miles per week (not much!) My question to you guys based on my senario:
1) How often do I need my oil changed?
If you use Mobil1 0W40 (european blend) or Amsoil 5W40 (european blend) you should be good for the full FS cycle of about 10,000 miles or 1 year.
If only changing oil at that extended interval then try getting the oil filter replaced each 6 months if the paper element type is used or use the newest fleece element type recommended by MB latest specs 229.5.
2) Do I really need service B if the car runs smooth, can I just change my oil and filter from a workshop with Mobil 0w-40 which is what MB recommands?
The only safe way to find out if an oil needs replacing is to have the oil analysed by a lab (about $25). That would not be a bad idea as you bought your car used and the oil came low and you never know what type of oil was used on the car before, besides the frequency of oil change.
3) Car is required to read 500 miles or less for service B for the dealer to do it for free, at this point do you think I should wait or just have the oil changed and deal with the dealer later?
They should do it also if close to 1 year has passed since the last change.
4) My steering wheel vibrates, does anyone know why?
if it does when you are running at high speeds than the tires are probably in need of new balancing or even replacement if their rubber is too soft and they got "flat". There may also be worn out bushings in the control arms, etc. Take it to a good and honest european car mechanic in your area.
rebalancing the tires should cost about $15 per tire at a Sears store for example. You might want to try that first on the front tires and see if it helps. In general bad quality tires tend to require rebalancing often.
The steering colum bearing may also be damaged, ..It can be a lot of things in summary. If the rebalancing does not help seek a professional help. Try the dealer where you bought it from. Aren't dealers supposed to give you something back for the extra charges they sell the car for when compared to a private seller?
5) My friends tell me that I should warm up the car before driving, is it necessary? If so, how what is the normal temperature to start driving?
This taboo applies to old car and oil technology. Todays car are pretty much ready to drive away when you start them. Just don't floor it right away and start slowly.
Thank you!
Oil color is not an indication of its current qualities.
I drive in the city about 50-90 miles per week (not much!) My question to you guys based on my senario:
1) How often do I need my oil changed?
If you use Mobil1 0W40 (european blend) or Amsoil 5W40 (european blend) you should be good for the full FS cycle of about 10,000 miles or 1 year.
If only changing oil at that extended interval then try getting the oil filter replaced each 6 months if the paper element type is used or use the newest fleece element type recommended by MB latest specs 229.5.
2) Do I really need service B if the car runs smooth, can I just change my oil and filter from a workshop with Mobil 0w-40 which is what MB recommands?
The only safe way to find out if an oil needs replacing is to have the oil analysed by a lab (about $25). That would not be a bad idea as you bought your car used and the oil came low and you never know what type of oil was used on the car before, besides the frequency of oil change.
3) Car is required to read 500 miles or less for service B for the dealer to do it for free, at this point do you think I should wait or just have the oil changed and deal with the dealer later?
They should do it also if close to 1 year has passed since the last change.
4) My steering wheel vibrates, does anyone know why?
if it does when you are running at high speeds than the tires are probably in need of new balancing or even replacement if their rubber is too soft and they got "flat". There may also be worn out bushings in the control arms, etc. Take it to a good and honest european car mechanic in your area.
rebalancing the tires should cost about $15 per tire at a Sears store for example. You might want to try that first on the front tires and see if it helps. In general bad quality tires tend to require rebalancing often.
The steering colum bearing may also be damaged, ..It can be a lot of things in summary. If the rebalancing does not help seek a professional help. Try the dealer where you bought it from. Aren't dealers supposed to give you something back for the extra charges they sell the car for when compared to a private seller?
5) My friends tell me that I should warm up the car before driving, is it necessary? If so, how what is the normal temperature to start driving?
This taboo applies to old car and oil technology. Todays car are pretty much ready to drive away when you start them. Just don't floor it right away and start slowly.
Thank you!
03-11-2005, 08:42 AM
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Honda Accord
guanabara has given you excellent feedback in my opinion. I want to encourage you to find a mechanic/shop who can look your car over. Ideally, you do this BEFORE you buy the car.
If you are really concerned about the oil, do an oil analysis. Do an internet search for "bob is the oil guy," and you will find more info on engine oil than you probably imagined possible. You will also hear all kinds of opinions. Good luck. By the way, the oil turns black after only a few thousand miles, so that in itself is not necessarily bad news. On the other hand, you could do an engine oil change, leave the FSS alone, and then just take it in when it is time to have your B service. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic European car formula because it meets the mercedes 229.5 requirement and I can usually find it at my local Wal-Mart or Autozone for about $5 per quart. It you do the service at a Mercedes dealership, I doubt that they will charge you less than $8 a quart and my 2003 E 320 takes 8 quarts.
Or you could do both at the same time, an engine oil analysis while changing the oil and filter. That may give you a bit of peace of mind.
If your B service is done at the selling dealership (especially if not a Mercedes dealership), they probably won't do anything more than an engine oil change and they probably will not want to report to you anything wrong with the car, for then they would be at least slightly morally responsible, although not legally responsible to fix your car. In the USA, it is buyer beware, and you did not "be aware" BEFORE buying the car. If the dealership is not a mercedes dealership, they will probably use the bulk motor oil they buy, which is not synthetic. If you use regular motor oil, you cannot do the long drain intervals that the FSS advises you to do.
In summary, get your car checked out by someone you trust. Ask for mechanic recommendations on the E-class forum, or perhaps do a search and see if recommendations have already been made for a mechanic in your area. Check out www.cartalk.com and look under their mechanX recommendations which is under "actual car information."
I would want to know if the dealership outright lied to you, or just told you a half-truth. You didn't say if you bought the car from a Mercedes dealership, or from another dealership. My bet is that it was not a Mercedes dealership or they would have sold you a "Starmarked" car, which is their extended warranty on used cars. Your car may have been under factory warranty right when you bought it, but just days after your purchase expired the 4 year warranty time limit from the time the car was first sold as a new car.
Please, check out www.carbuyingtips.com before your next car purchase. Please, prepare yourself if you do not want to be taken advantage of. Which reminds me of a joke that has a lot of truth in it; how can you know when a used car salesman is lying to you? Answer: anytime his lips are moving, he is lying to you.
William
2003 E 320
If you are really concerned about the oil, do an oil analysis. Do an internet search for "bob is the oil guy," and you will find more info on engine oil than you probably imagined possible. You will also hear all kinds of opinions. Good luck. By the way, the oil turns black after only a few thousand miles, so that in itself is not necessarily bad news. On the other hand, you could do an engine oil change, leave the FSS alone, and then just take it in when it is time to have your B service. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic European car formula because it meets the mercedes 229.5 requirement and I can usually find it at my local Wal-Mart or Autozone for about $5 per quart. It you do the service at a Mercedes dealership, I doubt that they will charge you less than $8 a quart and my 2003 E 320 takes 8 quarts.
Or you could do both at the same time, an engine oil analysis while changing the oil and filter. That may give you a bit of peace of mind.
If your B service is done at the selling dealership (especially if not a Mercedes dealership), they probably won't do anything more than an engine oil change and they probably will not want to report to you anything wrong with the car, for then they would be at least slightly morally responsible, although not legally responsible to fix your car. In the USA, it is buyer beware, and you did not "be aware" BEFORE buying the car. If the dealership is not a mercedes dealership, they will probably use the bulk motor oil they buy, which is not synthetic. If you use regular motor oil, you cannot do the long drain intervals that the FSS advises you to do.
In summary, get your car checked out by someone you trust. Ask for mechanic recommendations on the E-class forum, or perhaps do a search and see if recommendations have already been made for a mechanic in your area. Check out www.cartalk.com and look under their mechanX recommendations which is under "actual car information."
I would want to know if the dealership outright lied to you, or just told you a half-truth. You didn't say if you bought the car from a Mercedes dealership, or from another dealership. My bet is that it was not a Mercedes dealership or they would have sold you a "Starmarked" car, which is their extended warranty on used cars. Your car may have been under factory warranty right when you bought it, but just days after your purchase expired the 4 year warranty time limit from the time the car was first sold as a new car.
Please, check out www.carbuyingtips.com before your next car purchase. Please, prepare yourself if you do not want to be taken advantage of. Which reminds me of a joke that has a lot of truth in it; how can you know when a used car salesman is lying to you? Answer: anytime his lips are moving, he is lying to you.
William
2003 E 320
03-11-2005, 10:02 AM
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2003 C230 Coupe
Thanks X72 for complementing it.
We need nice guys like you to chat via words and also help those who are beginning a MB car ownership or are trying to get some of their car light service done by themselves.
Have a great day.
We need nice guys like you to chat via words and also help those who are beginning a MB car ownership or are trying to get some of their car light service done by themselves.
Have a great day.
03-11-2005, 10:53 AM
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Thank you Quanabara and X72 for the advise, recommandation, and all the great tips!
I really appreciate your help. Indeed this was not a MB dealer but I knew the guys, I think they were telling half truth but anyway they gave me a free service B from a mechanic I know who also works at MB shop on weekdays and runs his side thing on weekends at a friends shop. I also did tire balancing and rotation, now vibration is gone when driving at high speed.
Car runs smooth except i feel little engine vibration in the staring wheel when put on drive especially in cold weather and I feel staring wheel is little squeeky during turning left right? Any suggestion on that a friend told me maybe I need staring wheel oil changed?
Thank you so much guys!
I really appreciate your help. Indeed this was not a MB dealer but I knew the guys, I think they were telling half truth but anyway they gave me a free service B from a mechanic I know who also works at MB shop on weekdays and runs his side thing on weekends at a friends shop. I also did tire balancing and rotation, now vibration is gone when driving at high speed.
Car runs smooth except i feel little engine vibration in the staring wheel when put on drive especially in cold weather and I feel staring wheel is little squeeky during turning left right? Any suggestion on that a friend told me maybe I need staring wheel oil changed?
Thank you so much guys!
03-11-2005, 11:05 AM
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2003 C230 Coupe
A steering oil change would not be a bad idea either.
In general when I buy my used cars, unless I know the history, I get all fluids replaced (except the trans oil which I get tested by a lab first).
It should be easy and cheap for your weekend mechanic to do. Let me know if you are in the DC area, as I might want to tag along for service with that guy too.
Have him check the brake oil too, as they nromally need replacement at 2 or 3 years intervals.
The noise on the steering may also be on the column itself.
Did you run a carfax report on the car before?
In general when I buy my used cars, unless I know the history, I get all fluids replaced (except the trans oil which I get tested by a lab first).
It should be easy and cheap for your weekend mechanic to do. Let me know if you are in the DC area, as I might want to tag along for service with that guy too.
Have him check the brake oil too, as they nromally need replacement at 2 or 3 years intervals.
The noise on the steering may also be on the column itself.
Did you run a carfax report on the car before?
03-11-2005, 11:18 AM
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Yea, I ran carfax report it had 2 accidents both in rear: 1 with parked car in the bumper one with moving car in rear left both accidents were back in 2001 within few months when car was first purchase by first owner (i think within 10k miles.) I bought it knowing b/c car runs and looks fine and I got a good deal according to my research. I live in the BX and the mechanic is in Queens, I'm not sure if you would like to make a trip here. I guess, I can change fluids and see how that works.
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
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09-13-2006, 05:28 PM
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CLK200K Avantgarde 06
Steering wheel shaking
i want to give the answer for the steering wheel thing.
i had that problem also when i put on N the car is quiet adn still, but when i put to D the steerign wheel shake alittle bit and after checking with my brother and the dealer, the problem come from that your rpm is low when u put on D, so in order to correct it,
you can jsut go to teh dealer and ask them to increase the rpm from .5 to .7 or depend on teh car .8 so u will notice that twhen u put into D gear your rpm will be at .8 and it wont shake anymore.
hope that help
give me back teh feedback
i had that problem also when i put on N the car is quiet adn still, but when i put to D the steerign wheel shake alittle bit and after checking with my brother and the dealer, the problem come from that your rpm is low when u put on D, so in order to correct it,
you can jsut go to teh dealer and ask them to increase the rpm from .5 to .7 or depend on teh car .8 so u will notice that twhen u put into D gear your rpm will be at .8 and it wont shake anymore.
hope that help
give me back teh feedback
09-23-2006, 12:57 AM
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That sounds like like something would work but is this the right thing to do? My question is why did the vibration start? Thanks Sorata, I will try this.
