R350 Master Window Switch Replacement
#1
R350 Master Window Switch Replacement
My Drivers pull-up window operator switch cracked off and dealers were talking 350-500$ for replacement. I picked up a beauty replacement master module with all switches and mirror operation. Has any one replaced one - can you pull-out or do you need to remove door panel? Can you advise ?
Thanks !
Thanks !
#2
Member
i can't swear that it is true for the master panel, but i replaced a window switch on the passenger side front and the door panel had to come off to access the screws that held it in; not like most other cars where it is usually a press fit...
#7
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2015 BMW 550i xDrive; 2017 GLC300; 2013 C300 (SOLD)
Just finished installing a new master switch on my ML350 (W164), it's the same part...same instructions. Yeah dealer wanted $350 for part and labor, I did it for $115 myself. Took literally 30 mins to do.
I got the part from these guys: https://www.getmercedesparts.com, took less than 5 days to get.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that yes you do indeed need to take the door panel off since the switch is held by both clips and two (2) screws.
I got the part from these guys: https://www.getmercedesparts.com, took less than 5 days to get.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that yes you do indeed need to take the door panel off since the switch is held by both clips and two (2) screws.
Last edited by spielnicht; 11-11-2011 at 09:29 AM.
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#8
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2011 GL450, '06 R500 traded, '08 ML350 sold
Out of curiosity, what short of problems where you guys having and needed to replace the master switch? Did it have anything to do with the rear windows override switch being stuck?
#9
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2015 BMW 550i xDrive; 2017 GLC300; 2013 C300 (SOLD)
Yup, that was the first problem which I could have lived with, but 2 weeks ago one of the buttons for the rear window just broke off with normal force applied. It's really shameful for Mercedes to have such a poor quality part and more so not replacing it under the extended factory warranty. Boo.
#10
the master window control panel on my r350 broke. For some reason, the window override button got stuck at the down position and none of my passengers were able to roll down their windows. The one of the buttons broke off! Upon closer look these things have tiny hinges and its amazing how they hold up. They seemed so fragile.
#11
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R350 4-matic
Same thing happened on my R350 2 weeks ago. First over ride switch, then one of the rear window switches on the master panel. $350 quote from dealer...local MB mechanic did for $215 in about 2.5 hours total.
#13
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mrcedes R350 2008
R-350 window switch
Yep, same thing happens to my R-350, overide switch got stock and nobody can open windows on the back, I think mercedes should fix this for free...
#14
06 R-350 Master Switch
Same thing happened to my 06 R-350 in Nov 2013.
The override / child-lockout push-button got stuck. I removed the switch assembly from the panel (panel removal required) to investigate.
Apparently the tab holding the window switch for the left passenger window cracked, broke off and fell into the gap for the child-lockout button, inhibiting it's operation. The window switch was/is still operating nominally, even though it's only attached with one tab. I reattached the left passenger switch, it is currently working, but expect it to fall out soon, as the stress on the single tab is now doing the work the two used to share.
Here is how you investigate. You may want to have a replacement switch available, depending on your preference on how often you want to remove the door panel.
With the switch assembly removed from the door panel:
(Note: My trim-piece was almost fused to the arm-rest. Had to gently remove it. There are two screws and there are to tabs that should attach the switch to the panel bracket. If after the removal of the screws the tabs are not engaging the bracket, you'll have to gently separate the two.)
1. Carefully remove the front left and right window button. Pushing them in (lower window), reveals the two tabs that hold the window switch into place. Carefully push them outwards using a watch-maker flat-head screw-driver. Careful, you may break them!!!
2. Optional: Repeat for the rear window switches, same technique (I left mine in, but made re-assembly a wee bit more challenging).
3. Remove the trim piece. The trim piece is attached at 6 locations to the switch housing. Carefully use small flat-head screw driver to release.
4. On a clean surface, release the child-lockout switch attached at 2 locations with flat-head screw-driver.
Note: Be careful, a small (approx 0.25 inch diameter) silver disc with a pin either side is inside the switch! It may fall out - hence the clean surface for easy recovery. Upon removal, odds are, you'll find a small black tab that looks an awful like the one that used to hold your window switch in.
5. I tried glueing (crazy glue, see pictures) the tab back in, but the plastic was brittle and was warped resulting on poor alignment and increased stress. So I left mine off. I didn't want to mess with epoxy. Inspect your remaining tabs, if they are cracked, you’ll be back here soon, might be better off with a new switch.
6. Re-install the child-lockout switch (with the silver disc) and check for orientation and operation. Should work just fine.
7. Re-install the trim-piece, snapping it tightly in all 6 locations.
8. Re-install all window switches, check for operation. Reinstall with 2 screws to the panel.
9. Judgement Call…. continue using the "broken" switch with only 1 tab on "each" switch and replace at later time, or replace with new switch now. Longevity will depend on the health of the remaining tab and how you operate the switch.
The override / child-lockout push-button got stuck. I removed the switch assembly from the panel (panel removal required) to investigate.
Apparently the tab holding the window switch for the left passenger window cracked, broke off and fell into the gap for the child-lockout button, inhibiting it's operation. The window switch was/is still operating nominally, even though it's only attached with one tab. I reattached the left passenger switch, it is currently working, but expect it to fall out soon, as the stress on the single tab is now doing the work the two used to share.
Here is how you investigate. You may want to have a replacement switch available, depending on your preference on how often you want to remove the door panel.
With the switch assembly removed from the door panel:
(Note: My trim-piece was almost fused to the arm-rest. Had to gently remove it. There are two screws and there are to tabs that should attach the switch to the panel bracket. If after the removal of the screws the tabs are not engaging the bracket, you'll have to gently separate the two.)
1. Carefully remove the front left and right window button. Pushing them in (lower window), reveals the two tabs that hold the window switch into place. Carefully push them outwards using a watch-maker flat-head screw-driver. Careful, you may break them!!!
2. Optional: Repeat for the rear window switches, same technique (I left mine in, but made re-assembly a wee bit more challenging).
3. Remove the trim piece. The trim piece is attached at 6 locations to the switch housing. Carefully use small flat-head screw driver to release.
4. On a clean surface, release the child-lockout switch attached at 2 locations with flat-head screw-driver.
Note: Be careful, a small (approx 0.25 inch diameter) silver disc with a pin either side is inside the switch! It may fall out - hence the clean surface for easy recovery. Upon removal, odds are, you'll find a small black tab that looks an awful like the one that used to hold your window switch in.
5. I tried glueing (crazy glue, see pictures) the tab back in, but the plastic was brittle and was warped resulting on poor alignment and increased stress. So I left mine off. I didn't want to mess with epoxy. Inspect your remaining tabs, if they are cracked, you’ll be back here soon, might be better off with a new switch.
6. Re-install the child-lockout switch (with the silver disc) and check for orientation and operation. Should work just fine.
7. Re-install the trim-piece, snapping it tightly in all 6 locations.
8. Re-install all window switches, check for operation. Reinstall with 2 screws to the panel.
9. Judgement Call…. continue using the "broken" switch with only 1 tab on "each" switch and replace at later time, or replace with new switch now. Longevity will depend on the health of the remaining tab and how you operate the switch.
#15
Junior Member
seems to be a common issue
Same thing happened to me last September. Child lock button stuck inside. Fortunately, it happen to be the last month of ELW on my 2007 R350. Replaced by the dealer under ELW.
#16
wow - looks like this is becoming quite the issue. i've been living with the messed up driver's door switch for a month now. in my case, 3 out of the 4 switches broke, but by moving them around a little am getting by temporarily for now. the problem is I have the switch with both the folding mirror and back glass fold out option and this is never available on ebay!
is it too much to ask for a TSB on this one!
is it too much to ask for a TSB on this one!