One advice: Get the extended warranty!

[a930rocket]

I'm not sure if we got a deal on our CPO '06 350 or not. Bought it used with 16k miles in '07 for $40k and the extended warranty. looking around, it seemed ti be the going price, but prices now are in the mid $20's. With all the work we just had done under warranty, it was worth buying the extended warranty.

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[AdamW81]

Is there any reason to extend the factory warranty now or wait until its closer to expiring? I have an 08 with warranty through 6/12 - I definitely plan on just extending the factory warranty but don't see a problem waiting?

[a930rocket]

Not sure if the price goes up the longer you wait or not. I think VW's do that. Might want to look into it to help you make your decision.

BTW: How's that 996TT? I've got an 87 911 Turbo.

Originally Posted by AdamW81

Is there any reason to extend the factory warranty now or wait until its closer to expiring? I have an 08 with warranty through 6/12 - I definitely plan on just extending the factory warranty but don't see a problem waiting?

[supernsx]

Originally Posted by AdamW81

Is there any reason to extend the factory warranty now or wait until its closer to expiring? I have an 08 with warranty through 6/12 - I definitely plan on just extending the factory warranty but don't see a problem waiting?

How many miles does your car have? One reason I can think of is you can buy an extended warranty from GM for your R-class before it hits 3years/36K miles. GM has a pretty good record to pay the claims and it is also a very finanically stable company. The GM warranty does allow you to bring the car to the MB dealership for repairs.

Otherwise, I will wait until you have to buy it since many extended warranty does start the coverage the date you buy the warranty and not when your original factory warranty expires.

[AdamW81]

Originally Posted by supernsx

How many miles does your car have? One reason I can think of is you can buy an extended warranty from GM for your R-class before it hits 3years/36K miles. GM has a pretty good record to pay the claims and it is also a very finanically stable company. The GM warranty does allow you to bring the car to the MB dealership for repairs.

Otherwise, I will wait until you have to buy it since many extended warranty does start the coverage the date you buy the warranty and not when your original factory warranty expires.

I haven't seen any info on the gm warranty on this site, any threads you can direct me to (I tried searching)? Car is at 33k miles and less than 3 years so would need to do that sooner rather than later.

a930: I actually sold it last July, I just haven't updated my avatar (hadn't been here in awhile but just got the R for my wife). It was a fun car, I've got an 09 z06 now - not as sexy as the porsche but weighs about 300lbs less and currently (always going up) making about 150rwhp more

[sam.mano77]

I just purchased a used 2005 E55 last week, and would like to find a reputable extended warranty company. Any recommendations?

I want to get one in place asap....don't want to get caught with my pants down.

[supernsx]

Originally Posted by AdamW81

I haven't seen any info on the gm warranty on this site, any threads you can direct me to (I tried searching)? Car is at 33k miles and less than 3 years so would need to do that sooner rather than later.

PM'ed.

[supernsx]

Ok... I dig up this old thread because my R just came back from the dealer.

Bad crane sensor, one automatic side mirror, loose steerling column and bad accelerate padel.

Total repair cost: $1450

Still three more years to go on my extended warranty that has paid over $6000 of MB repair work already. I told my wife that if I don't have extended warranty today, I am going to sell the car. I am sure the other three air struts will die on me in the next three years and it will set the extended warranty back for another $9K......

[zafarnamah]

Any recommendations for warranty on an R-350 with 52,000 miles? I am still trying to find a reliable company. Carchex is trying to sell me a warranty with the following exclusions:

Tires, rims, batteries, all glass, lenses, sealed beams, light bulbs, brake rotors and drums, shock absorbers, exhaust components, catalytic converter, charcoal canisters, door handle assemblies, speakers, telephones, televisions, AM/FM radio/cassette/CD players exceeding three hundred dollars ($300) repair or replacement costs, GPS/Navigation systems exceeding three hundred dollars ($300) repair or replacement costs, combination GPS/navigation & radio units exceeding three hundred dollars ($300) repair or replacement costs (navigation and radio are covered up to MSRP if option is applied), DVD players, game centers, audio/video equipment, radar detectors, touch screens and/or voice activated accessories, voice recognition systems, safety restraint systems to include airbags and related components, fusable links and fuses, light assemblies, shop supplies, handling fees, tire pressure monitoring sensors, hazardous waste charges, bolts, screws, nuts, washers, alignments including adjustments/alignments to Covered Repairs, wheel balancing, positive crankcase ventilation valves, filters, belts, hoses, constant velocity and double offset joint seals, boots, brake linings or pads, manual clutch assemblies, friction disc, throwout bearings, pressure plate, manual hydraulic linkages, the following emission components: purge or vent sensors/solenoids/valves, vacuum canister, vapor return canister, vapor return lines/valves, air pump/lines/valves, emission vapor sensors, gas cap/filler neck. Air conditioning evacuation, recharge and/or conversion are not covered unless in conjunction with a covered repair.

[supernsx]

Heading back to the dealer to replace the OTHER front airmatic shock tomorrow. My air condition also stops blowing cold air if I drove three hours continuously. IT IS GOING TO BE EXPENSIVE... luckily, I only need to pay my $200 deductible....

It is going to hit the $10K mark for total reimbursement... totally luck out with the extended warranty.

[Ted Flynn]

My 08 320 CDI ran great for 100,000 miles before trading it in.

I think I had to fix the parking sensors two times.

The warranty would have been a huge waste for me. BUT - the car ran great the whole time.

[bzliteyear]

My R500 needs CV boot for front right.
Guess what?
CPO DOES NOT COVER IT as they consider it a wear item!
Even worse, MB dealer wants $650 for the repair(less 15% discount).
Ugh!
PL

[Ted Flynn]

Another thing I hate about those warranties - what you have in mind doesn't always match their contract.

To help preserve boots, I put Armor All or Clear Guard on those couple times a year and the rubber get preserved.

[supernsx]

Originally Posted by Ted Flynn

My 08 320 CDI ran great for 100,000 miles before trading it in.

I think I had to fix the parking sensors two times.

The warranty would have been a huge waste for me. BUT - the car ran great the whole time.

Airmatic suspension and automatic mirrors are the only major problems that I have. So, if people considers to buy an older R-class, stay away from those two options.

[supernsx]

After the $2k fixed on the airmatic suspension compressor and struct last week, the rear lights have all gone out this weekend. It seems like MB has an updated light harness for the 06". This car is really testing my patient and it is going to be another $300 claim to the extended warranty.

[OldMBGuy]

Having owned an R from new until recently, I WOULD NEVER OWN an R-Class or ANY OTHER POST 2000 MB w/o extended warranty. You'd just be asking for financial ruin.

I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v ) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).

Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.

Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.

I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.

The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.

[BallJack]

Originally Posted by OldMBGuy

Having owned an R from new until recently, I WOULD NEVER OWN an R-Class or ANY OTHER POST 2000 MB w/o extended warranty. You'd just be asking for financial ruin.

I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v ) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).

Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.

Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.

I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.

The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.

Funny, I could say the exact reverse thing as far as my experience goes with the Audi. But my worst ever ownership experience is with the 2000 Honda Odyssey. Sorry to hear how bad your experience is with the R Class.

[supernsx]

Originally Posted by OldMBGuy

Having owned an R from new until recently, I WOULD NEVER OWN an R-Class or ANY OTHER POST 2000 MB w/o extended warranty. You'd just be asking for financial ruin.

I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v ) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).

Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.

Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.

I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.

The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.

Umm.... I would not go that far.... I had two Audi's myself and none of them were very reliable. Even though, I don't have much luck with my R class, my C300 is great and doesn't have one problem since I bought it four years ago.

[supernsx]

Went to the dealer for Service A and Wheel Alignment. The service adviser came back with bad news and it seems like the Differential has gone bad. The cost will be $3K plus.... stay tuned....

[avlis]

Front or rear? What are the symptoms?

[TINMan22]

Originally Posted by supernsx

After the $2k fixed on the airmatic suspension compressor and struct last week, the rear lights have all gone out this weekend. It seems like MB has an updated light harness for the 06". This car is really testing my patient and it is going to be another $300 claim to the extended warranty.

SuperNSX,

I had this problem a couple of summers ago. I removed and replaced bulbs for a few days (took out the bulb, put the same bulb back). It would work for an hour or so.

Finally took it to the dealer and got the new wiring harness. Car is a 2007 R500, now with ~84,000 miles. My repair was covered by the original warranty that was still in effect.

We took it the MB of Alexandria last week for Service B @ 84k miles. Among findings: Steering Rack reported to be leaking. Estimated repair with OEM part and standard labor: $1800. SA called saying that Extended Warranty company (Warrantech) wouldn't cover the OEM rack and was offering an aftermarket part for a lower price and wasn't telling him the origin of the part. SA said he wouldn't be able to warrantee either the part or the labor w/o knowing the source. In addition, he said Warrantech wouldn't pay the standard labor charge (~6.4 hours) but would pay for a lower charge (~4 hours). SA agreed to reduce my labor charge to what Warrantech would pay. If I bought the OEM part, I would have to pay $1,000 for the repair. I called Warrantech, was told that their replacement part was remanufactured by a reputable company (Meridian) and came with a 12mo/12k warranty. I called SA back, left message that I wanted them to install that part. When I confirmed with Warrantech that the warranty covered the part and labor, I was told that my out-of-pocket expense should only be my $100 deductible.

I got the impression that the dealer wanted to get its full profit from using the OEM part (btw, it has only a 12/12 warranty too!). If I had not called the warranty company, I would have had to choose whether to make the repair at a cost of an additional 1 grand, or sell the car and buy something with a lower complexity/design factor, e.g., a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel with all the bells and whistles. I can see someone saying, "Ha! A Chrysler vehicle?!" Based on my research, the chassis and suspension are based on the ML and the 2012 version will have an 8-spd transmission. With high test gas costing ~$3.43/gal in Prince William County, VA, the low MPG won't be too bad a hit.

Anyway, with the cost factor resolved, we're getting the rack replaced and paying only the deductible for what would have otherwise been a painfully expensive repair.

JR

[supernsx]

Originally Posted by TINMan22

SuperNSX,

I had this problem a couple of summers ago. I removed and replaced bulbs for a few days (took out the bulb, put the same bulb back). It would work for an hour or so.

Finally took it to the dealer and got the new wiring harness. Car is a 2007 R500, now with ~84,000 miles. My repair was covered by the original warranty that was still in effect.

We took it the MB of Alexandria last week for Service B @ 84k miles. Among findings: Steering Rack reported to be leaking. Estimated repair with OEM part and standard labor: $1800. SA called saying that Extended Warranty company (Warrantech) wouldn't cover the OEM rack and was offering an aftermarket part for a lower price and wasn't telling him the origin of the part. SA said he wouldn't be able to warrantee either the part or the labor w/o knowing the source. In addition, he said Warrantech wouldn't pay the standard labor charge (~6.4 hours) but would pay for a lower charge (~4 hours). SA agreed to reduce my labor charge to what Warrantech would pay. If I bought the OEM part, I would have to pay $1,000 for the repair. I called Warrantech, was told that their replacement part was remanufactured by a reputable company (Meridian) and came with a 12mo/12k warranty. I called SA back, left message that I wanted them to install that part. When I confirmed with Warrantech that the warranty covered the part and labor, I was told that my out-of-pocket expense should only be my $100 deductible.

I got the impression that the dealer wanted to get its full profit from using the OEM part (btw, it has only a 12/12 warranty too!). If I had not called the warranty company, I would have had to choose whether to make the repair at a cost of an additional 1 grand, or sell the car and buy something with a lower complexity/design factor, e.g., a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel with all the bells and whistles. I can see someone saying, "Ha! A Chrysler vehicle?!" Based on my research, the chassis and suspension are based on the ML and the 2012 version will have an 8-spd transmission. With high test gas costing ~$3.43/gal in Prince William County, VA, the low MPG won't be too bad a hit.

Anyway, with the cost factor resolved, we're getting the rack replaced and paying only the deductible for what would have otherwise been a painfully expensive repair.

JR

JR, glad that things are working out from you.

My problem is for the "front" differential. It is making excessive grinding noise while driving. The technician was able to tell it is the differential problem by the noise will go quieter when I accelerate and louder when I take my foot off the pedal.

Got a call from the SA and it seems like Chrysler is willing to pick up the tab. I am going to pretend on paying the $200 deductible as my payment to change the differential fluid.... feel better that way.

[sabbadoo32]

I'm all for the warranty. We picked up the interior protection package; because as the parents of a 16 month old boy, it's a matter of time before we get a stray tear or puncture to the interior of our 2008 R 350. We paid nothing for a replacement tire ($324) after ours picked up a nail.

Sure these things are insurance. But like the earlier post, I'd rather take my chances with the additional protection than not. My dad used to say that it's one thing to own a nice car. It's something else altogether to be able to afford it. Warranties help you afford it.

[GrauGeist]

If the R is a sore eye, then the entire MB line probably needs corrective vision also. [/quote]

That is because DBAG took their eye off the ball, and let quality slip. If they don't get quality back up on top, resale and depreciation will stay bad.

[supernsx]

Ok... just come back from another trip to dealer today.

4 problems:
Steering Pump Reservoir Leaking
Left Front Axle worn out
Transmission Conductor Plate malfunction
Engine Gasket Leaking

Three days and $3600 later, just get the car back. Now, the total extended warranty has paid out over $11K after 3 years.