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I finally finished my research and am going with the factory extended warranty.
The link above includes an article with contact information to a dealer that offers the warranty for only $200 over cost. I'm opting for 3 year / 125k mile coverage. The quote I got was just $4000. This puts the quote I got from fidelity to shame.
I finally finished my research and am going with the factory extended warranty.
The link above includes an article with contact information to a dealer that offers the warranty for only $200 over cost. I'm opting for 3 year / 125k mile coverage. The quote I got was just $4000. This puts the quote I got from fidelity to shame.
Great work, Odious. Nothing beat the MB warranty with good price.
My automatic trunk stopped working this past Saturday. When I pressed the buttons, it will unlatched but will not go up nor down. I tried to open it manually but it will not stay up.
I did a lot of research and the first result was failed hydraulic pump. I was thanking my extended warranty but still think it sucks to pay $200 deductible.
Anyway, some guy on ML forum find out the battery can be the issue. My battery is on it's last leg but I had never seen any battery message on the dash. Long story short, paid my Indy $300 to replaced the battery and the trunk starts working again immediately.
While I was at the Indy, they also changed the brakes with Centric brake pads and rotors. The brakes feel really good now and cannot tell any different from the old OEM brakes. It saved me a bundle with the whole thing cost me $550 with parts($300) and labor ($250).
Great work, Odious. Nothing beat the MB warranty with good price.
Thanks for that SuperNSX.
Your advice was very valuable and helped me get to this sweet deal.
For those looking I asked the dealer for a copy of the T&Cs of the MB Extended Warranty. SEE HERE
One thing I noticed is that it allows for owners to perform our own maintenance as long as we keep records/receipts to present to them (see page 3).
I was wondering this very thing! Saves us a lot of money if they dont BS us about it. Has anyone had experience with this aspect. When I asked the dealer they said all work should be done by a certified mechanic. I'm not sure if they meant ALL WORK or work above and beyond regular maintenance.
I'm new here and I am so glad I read this post on getting the Extended Warranty. I purchased my R350 in July and it started having the transmission valve body issue a couple weeks ago. My extended warranty company did cover it, but they did not cover the fluids and shop fees.
I'm new here and I am so glad I read this post on getting the Extended Warranty. I purchased my R350 in July and it started having the transmission valve body issue a couple weeks ago. My extended warranty company did cover it, but they did not cover the fluids and shop fees.
Good for you. Do you mind telling us a little about your EW? Thing like who its through and what coverage you have (years/miles/etc).
Also do you do your own regular maintenance (oil change, brake pads, etc)?
If so was this an issue when going filing your claim?
PS
How much did the tranny service cost the warranty company and how much did the fluids and shop rags cost you?
Good for you. Do you mind telling us a little about your EW? Thing like who its through and what coverage you have (years/miles/etc).
Also do you do your own regular maintenance (oil change, brake pads, etc)?
If so was this an issue when going filing your claim?
PS
How much did the tranny service cost the warranty company and how much did the fluids and shop rags cost you?
I have a power train only extended warranty that is serviced by Route 66 and it is for 3yrs/36k miles.
I was responsible for $236 which covered shop fees, tranny fluid and new tranny filter. The warranty company got fit for $1200-1300 for the new valve body and programming.
On the maintenance end, I out source most of this work to a local ship but provide the parts to save money. I only do this because I have a WorldPac account and I refuse to pay mark up.
I am currently planning on doing the Front/Rear pads and rotors, along with spark plugs and drive belt next week. The parts are only going to run me $320 plus two hours of labor.
I'm very surprised to here you have Route 66. I have read a lot of good things about them but the contract I looked at specifically excluded MB, BMWs and other premium car brands.
Perhaps exclusions like these vary from vendor to vendor (the R66 warranty I saw was being offered through a credit union).
I like how you outsource your work to a shop. Good of them to let you bring your own parts. Do you do this exclusively for the warranty (proof that work was done by a certified mech) or is it more to save you time and trouble?
3 weeks to go before my new vehicle to arrived at the dealership, My R is heading back to the shop. My rear lift gate motor just broke and the dealer also told me the alternator is going soon. Not sure how much but the extended warranty saves the day again
Hopefully, it is the last time. Even with $200 deductible, I think I paid more than ten times the last 5 years. I also start (actually for a long time) to feel sorry for Chrysler Extended Warranty.
Ok... just got my car back and it is $1450 total to replace the alternator and rear hatch. Before the day was over, one of my front airmatic spring started leaking air and came down lower after a sit. The R-class is back to the dealer again tomorrow. It will be the second time the front spring needs to be replaced since I own the car. The airmatic spring last for a bit over three years and about 45K miles.
Just need two more weeks and I am done with the R-class.
congrats supernsx...i just replaced front right airmatics as my warranty is out - wished i still had it. as frustrating as it is to pay out of pocket, when the car's running well - it's the BEST $15k out there that you can buy...and most people still think it's worth $40-50k.
what are you moving onto? i'm always looking, but not sure there's anything "better?"
that's right...i forgot you had ordered a Macan S.
I still haven't driven it, but took a friend to see it and she ended up ordering one(sept delivery).
Good luck and let us know your impressions. I LOVE my C4S and can only imagine what a bigger 911 might feel like (vs Cayenne which is quite soft and floaty).
PL
that's right...i forgot you had ordered a Macan S.
I still haven't driven it, but took a friend to see it and she ended up ordering one(sept delivery).
Good luck and let us know your impressions. I LOVE my C4S and can only imagine what a bigger 911 might feel like (vs Cayenne which is quite soft and floaty).
PL
Did an extended test drive of the Macan S two weeks ago and was totally surprised by how well it drives. It is definitely no 911 (some of the potential Macan owners are delusional about it) but with the right options, it handles similar to my 2008 C-class without the 4matic. The exhaust is a bit too quite for my liking but the engine is very sweet. Doesn't feel the urge of the BMW's V6 turbo but the Porsche 3.0 V6 turbo is deceivingly fast.
The 2014 $96K Cayenne S that I test drove was no match to the Macan. As you said, it is floaty and frankly, very un-Porsche. The engine is lazy and it is also very slow (relatively). I was considering it at one point but it was a total let down.
If someone wants a driver car and considering the ML, I would definitely test drive the Macan S. Price is a bit more and the Macan is a bit smaller. But it is a hell of a car (or SUV). Btw, 0-60 in 5.2 seconds is not too bad either.... if it is not enough, people can opt for the Macan turbo with 0-60 in 4.4 seconds. Will beat most of the AMG.
Oh btw, my R500 is back to the shop for more work. Getting sick of it.
Got the call from the dealer. The airmatic front struct needs to be replaced due to the air leaking out (not surprise). The surprise is the brake pedal is making noises when being step on. The advisor came back with a $700 quote to replace the Master Cylinder.
Chrysler is coming back out to do the inspection... will not get the car back until next week.
I think this is one last repair since I am trading in the car tomorrow. The very last Final Repair bill came out to be $2900 minus Chrysler rejection of a $950 repair on brake. Anyway, I am still grateful on having my extended warranty and Chrysler had paid close to $20K the last five years w/ 70K miles.
I know this is not a sales ad but this is a wrap up of my extended warranty journey of our beloved R500 after 4 years of documenting. The car was traded in two weeks ago.
The R500 had given us excellent service for 6 years and it is the longest I had ever owned one vehicle. Sadly, it was just getting to the point that the extended warranty is expiring in two months and we did not want any surprises on repair bills. I am hoping the next owner of the car will have a great start since I had everything fixed up at our last dealer service.
In my opinion, R500 is the best family vehicle (for a family of four) that any manufacturer have ever produced AND Chrysler is the BEST extended warranty company (at least for us) out there.
Paid: $2700 for 5 years/70K extended warranty (cars/tires/wheels)
Claims: After $20K, I lost track.
PL, we are sizing down to a Porsche Macan. Btw, I will keep people know how much I can get for the trade-in.
I know you will miss your R500. It was a legend around these parts.
How well did you make out on the trade-in?
I shudder to think of what I will be forced to settle with when its time to retire my R. Quite simply nothing like it on the market. Everything looks like its a step down (in terms of room and other features).
I know you will miss your R500. It was a legend around these parts.
How well did you make out on the trade-in?
I shudder to think of what I will be forced to settle with when its time to retire my R. Quite simply nothing like it on the market. Everything looks like its a step down (in terms of room and other features).
Not well. Fully loaded R500 is mechanically perfect. Inside is in excellent shape but body is only in average condition. New tire, brake and battery. 112K and traded in to the dealer for $8500. Original offer is $8K and I want at least $10K. After some back and forth, we only got $500 more. We did get a relatively good deal on the new car. The dealer then turned around and sold it to a small dealer lot. The current sell price on the lot is $13.9K.
The problem of the low offer is mostly because of the high mileage. It will be more if the car has less than 100K miles. The body also in so-so shape. Two large size dents on the door and some scratches on the bumper. Our geographic area is also having some impact on low trade-in value.
Car was sold less than 3 weeks on the dealer lot. They did switch my 20" wheels to a newer used ML and put a set of smaller OEM on the R. Feel bad for the new owner.
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10-01-2013, 10:04 PM
