5cyl

I've just recently purchased a used R320 with 58,000 mi on the odo.
This weekend, I replaced the engine air filters and found that the air intake hose to the turbo was loose enough that I was able to pull it off without loosening the band clamp.

There's a large, deep and orange colored gasket that seals the intake to the turbo, so I don't think I had an air leak there.

However, there was some oil seepage around the inlet on top of the engine, on the gasket and in the intake. Is this a problem?

I've seen some posts about an oil/separator gasket, but don't know where that is or if it could be a problem.

Any advice on the level of worry here? The engine isn't using oil so far (2500 miles since I changed the oil without dropping on the stick), and I don't see any smoke in the exhaust.

MFBENZ

just noticed the same thing on my 2009 r320 diesel. The car only has 14000 miles so i think its a factory defect. it almost looks like it was leaking intake air also. My solution was to snug up all the hose clamps including the ones at both air filter boxes, hope that works. Keep you posted to see if it works.

zemun1234

I got similar problem on my 2008 ML320 CDI ...I was burning too much oil and MB first monitored my oil consumption (easy way to take a few hundreds $$$). The first respond was "..it's normal..." ..

After they replaced intake, everything back to normal ...
I am not sure if it's problem with original intake or if you did fix out of MB and they didn't put back pipe right ...

My advise is to take care of it before you get more problems ...

MFBENZ

Im not sure if anyone including MB has touched the intake. Ill have to go back and look at the carfax I think it said service A was done.

I was doing my first oil change on it and putting my sythetic brand of oil I use and was looking at the engine ( to see what I got myself into by buying another Mercedes) And i noticed what looked like a dirty air vent would look like at the top of the turbo.

Grabbed the hose clamp and ohhhh no.. It was loose

Drummer boy

I have a 2009 R320 with 100 000kms. Car was purchased from South Carolina. Great drive. Brought it to MB in Buffalo. Tech told me the rear main seal was leaking...$1000 fix. Car did not drip for 2 months. Then it started again. I had confirmation the Turbo Seal was repaired however upon taking to many mechanics I was told it was the rear main seal...AGAIN. After seeing a specialist in the Deisel engine game it was determined that the seal near the turbo seal was not sealing properly...MBs seal is not great. So we used a Jeep part..now we wait as the plumbing around the engine drains the oil right over the rear seal...so what looks like a rear seal is not correct. Now we wait and see. wish me luck. if you had the same problem let me know.

5cyl

I discovered that the oil at the turbo intake is from the EGR system. It's drawn back into the intake (like on all similar systems) and is burned in the engine.

There is some seepage - apparently some people are being told their rear main bearing is leaking - probably not the problem. My local dealer finds lots of non-existent problems on our car as well - glad I do most of my own work.

If you tighten the clamp at the turbo you risk breaking the intake (don't know why they use such brittle stuff). It has to be kept just tight enough to maintain integrity of the air intake, but loose enough to move with expansion and contraction during running.

Drummer boy

On the topic of brittle plastic, my "non benz mechanic" handed me the air intake housing...its a large hard plastic item that is like a modern t tube coming from the air filters...well that was cracked from over tightening. Toronto prices for that item $585. US MB dealers $325.

I just don't know why people dont replace broken plastic pieces.
Anyway in an earlier post there is a list of things to do if you see oil.

Don't repair the main seal...its almost never the problem though the mechanic will tell you your crazy because its clear as day. Its more like there is plumbing around the engine that allows the other oil leaks to filter down.

Rob

user 823908234

Had the 'turbo seal' repaired over a year ago. Now, oil drops on the floor again, and the same old "It's the main seal!" (said with excitement in voice). sigh.

Drummer boy

If you like I will give you my mechanics number

Truth is most techs are trained.......to replace parts and build hours

So listen. If you're still leaving try something else

Drummer boy

Jerry

If you like call me 416 845 1035
I can tell you exactly what I did

dgiturbo

You should check the ML 164 side for what we have all done to attempt to address this issue. That red seal at the mouth of the turbo sucks eggs. As does the crankcase breather system that feeds oil into the air intake system just before the turbo. And yes that plastic duct that connects the air filters to the turbo cracks, not so much from over tightening, but the fact that Mercedes uses PLASTIC on hot oil soaked metal. I cleaned mine and used epoxy to seal the crack.
So far, some have installed a oil air separator catch can and/or used the "upgraded" red seal.
Several have had their rear main seal replaced because the V shaped engine has a duct molded into the block to drain oils, fuels etc. but it discharges just above the bell housing, and drips down as if it was a main seal issue. Have your tech look at the engine side from behind the drivers side front wheel and they will see the trickle.

By the way, this oil issue will eventually sludge up your intake manifold, breaking the internal swirl motor linkage, or drip down below onto the actual swirl motor, shorting it out. Either issue will cost BIG$$$, but a smart Jeep owner that uses this same motor found there is a $2 Radio Shack resistor you can jump the swirl motor terminal with to bypass it. (The vehicle will go to limp home if the swirl motor shorts out and this gets you going again with no side effects.)
Hope this helps.

Drummer boy

do you have a photograph of this catch can???
I changed the red seal to one from Jeep as the Benz ones are crap. The air intake housing is on order but I'm cautious in that it's probably going to break again. So how to you propose to save it?

I dont follwo he jeep owner same motor found at Radio Shack comment.
Please do tell.

user 823908234

Thanks Drummer boy, much appreciated. Fortunately my indy was the one who scoffed at the first "main seal" dealer comment, and guarandamntee he'll be the one doing the fix, not the dealer. This is the same guy who installed a new rear SAM to see if that had anything to do with the rear hatch issue, and since it didn't, he put my old one back in, all at no charge. Good, honest guy.

If he has any doubts, I'll be sure to give you a call. I had less problems with my 24 year old Volvo. Of course, it was a farm tractor compared to the R
Hmm, actually, it was a farm tractor compared to anything.

Digiturbo, I'll check the ML164 group too. Thanks!

dgiturbo

This only applies IF your swirl motor shorts out due to oil dripping on it. Once it shorts out, the ECU puts the vehicle in "limp home" where you only get about 30MPH and second gear.

Radio Shack part number 2711330 is a 5 pack of resistors. Use one of them to jump the terminals of the swirl motor below your fuel filter area. It fools the ECU to believe that the motor is working and takes your vehicle out of limp home. Great way to bypass an expensive issue if you find yourself in that position.

As for the air intake, I am still trying to come up with a better way, but busy on other projects now. For now, I just snug the hose clamp down, tight enough to seal, but not tight enough to damage.

Drummer boy

Thanks. I will bring that up with mechanic upon my next donation visit

dave2001auto

Is there a modification to replace the plastic seal hosing with a metal one? Possible cutting it off and splicing the modified seal adapter.

dave2001auto

Where exactly is the swirl motor. Is it directly under the real of the air duct seal or to the front of the seal?

Drummer boy

call me 416 845 1035
​Robert

Drummer boy

This is the worst built car with the most Expensive repair costs I've ever experienced

cut your losses.
sell it
dump it

and if anyone wants to sTay with it I have tires for winter

spaschke1

dgiturbo - wow what insight! I have a 2008 R320 that is in great shape has an AMG package that had a small leak and now quite significant. I plan to sell it and want to get a few things fixed including the leak. I took it to a local shop and they said the turbo is leaking oil and recommended I go to a MB dealer to fix! I called around today and they want over 2K to replace a seal! Said it would take over 10 hours of labor. It looks like the turbo is somewhat accessible from the top, so why so long? Is it that big of a deal pulling out the turbo to understand really what the source of the leak is? I was tying to find a youtube video showing how to replace a seal in the turbo no luck. Any insight on how to help resource?

Thanks,
Scott

BIZY-GUY

can you please message me your mechanics phone number ?
thanks

dogshome

Hi Bizy. 6 years is a long time to be busy. I can send you my mechanics number in UK?

Sorry!

Start a new thread please!