Cucucachu

Hit 80k miles on the R500 a few weeks ago and today the Brake Wear message came on. I'm gonna do the job myself. I've done it on Fords, BMWs and aircraft, so don't believe it will be too challenging. But I do have questions:

1. In other threads I read some discussing "Centric" brand rotors, pads & sensor. What is your experience with different brands and their qualities? Did anyone buy OEM rotors & pads from the dealer and do it yourself?

2. Most rotors have the five lug holes, the retaining bolt hole and two more located about 180 degrees apart. Are those two additional holes threaded for use in separating the rotor from the hub? I'm not a fan of hammers or pry bars. What size and thread are the OEM Rotor holes?

Any recommendations based on your experience would be extremely appreciated.

starbound01

It's an easy job.

I used ceramic pads with new sensors and I replace rotors. If it's the back brakes you are doing, the rotors are too thin to turn.

I used Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors and the pads were from Monroe with the sensor included. The ceramic pads have worn like iron and no more brake dust all over the rims. No issues at all with the rotors. I have to say that I used Centric rotors on my Lexus LX and I can't say I am all that impressed. It's also a heavy vehicle. Some of the rear rotors are vented so you want to check that out.

A piece of advice, mask off the mating surfaces and non-braking services facing outward and use high temp black paint (2 or 3 very light coats) and you won;t have rusting on the rotors. Clean off with solvent before painting.

Cucucachu

Thanks for the great tips.

I'm doing the fronts and ended up buying OEM Rotors. They were about $94 each. I was at the dealership buying brake fluid and requested a price on the rotors. Considering a good set of after market rotors are $70ea plus shipping, this wasn't a bad deal.

I changed the rotors on a BMW 3 Series that I used to own. After a few months the steering wheel would shake when you apply the brakes. The after market rotors heat warped. I replaced with OEM rotors and brake application was smooth again. Therefore, was not going to even consider a set of rotors at $40ea for this car.

I'll apply a few thin coats of high temp black as suggested and a thin coat of grease where the back of the disc mates with the hub.

Man, this car has been a maintenance hog since I bought it a year ago: exterior light bulbs going out, Navi LCD Monitor, Rear DVD Player, Rear suspension air bags, front brakes. Next I'm going to have to go to the dealer for trans fluid change and address a very minor leak between the power steering res and pump. The rubber tube is seeping a drop or two each time I drive. That's after buying new tooling to change oil and oil/air filters. I would rather be focused on fun stuff like HID head lights, LED lights, new wheels, etc.

bzliteyear

cucucachu...how did it well your various items, and how did you resolve the power steering? my steering is a bit heavy at stationary, and a local indep topped off the reservoir, but curious what you ended up doing to resolve.

Btw, I've had my 2006 R500 since Nov 2008, so about 5.5 years thus far. Good news is majority of the time it was covered by MB extended warranty, or i'd be out probably $10k+. I've paid about $2k out of pocket, including maintenance so I think that's actually not bad considering much of it was wear/tear.
Good luck.
Patrick

sully916

Not sure of the differences between the r 500 and r350, but I can tell you the caliper bolts in our r350 were the toughest bolts I've ever removed. Pblaster and impact wrench were ineffective. Had to use propane torch and then breaker bar. If you plan on doing rotors expect some torqued down caliper bolts. OEM rotors were $85.00 each before 10% discount.

starbound01

wow, They popped loose without an issue when I did them.

sully916

I wish mine had. I soaked each 21mm bolt with PBlaster, hit it with my impact wrench, breaker bar... totally frustrated. Then let it sit overnight. Came back next morning, hit each bolt with torch 30 seconds or more.... bam came right off with breaker bar.

Even with all the frustration, I would do it again and save $$ over a shop doing the work. I was quoted just under $500.00 to do the job at a local indy shop.

And now my car is sagging slightly in right rear!!! My wife thinks I'm seeing things lol

starbound01

Measure the read that you think is sagging after you know the car has been driven and stable. That will give you a frame of reference for the future. Pull the 2 40 Amp fuses to completely disable the air system and let it sit overnight. Then measure the height in the morning. Make sure you consider household emergencies and such when you do that so you don't find yourself with a car you can't drive in an emergency.


Don't ignore air-spring leaks. They lead to distribution valve and compressor failure eventually.

sully916

Are the 40A fuses the ones behind the passengers seat or are they in the engine bay somewhere? I remember seeing some fuses behind passenger seat when I replaced the battery.

starbound01

The fuse box is in the engine compartment on the passenger side just behind the headlight assembly. There are two 40 amp fuses side by side. I think the left one is the compressor and the right one is the air system. Be aware, if the fuses are original, the clear plastic top may pop off. It pops back on if it does.

One other thing. When you park the vehicle and let it sit, the system is closed; meaning there is no lowering or raising of the vehicle. The vehicle changes height based on loads or speeds. So, you can leverage this information by noting if the compressor comes on when the vehicle has been off overnight.

Cucucachu

I still haven't decided how I will tackle this seeping of steering fluid. But keeping it topped off and wiping away its seepage.

Cucucachu

I could never find these fuses so I simply disconnected the pump. It's easier than opening the fuse box. It was also more difficult to remove and install the wheel than replace the rear suspension air bag.

starbound01

the power steering fluid seep is usually the seal between the pump and the reservoir. You can find it for well under $10 online. No clue what the stealer charges.

bzliteyear

the MB dealer and indep both said only solution is new pump and about $1200 for parts alone - geez...glad we have friends on the forum.
PL

starbound01

You can buy the pump for <$200 reman. or between $300-$500+ brand new; don't know what the stealer charges. It looks like a 1-2 hr job for an indy. 2-3 hr job (if you have the tools) as a DIY or a 4hr job for the stealer.

Cucucachu

That's where it looks like it's coming from. Next, I need to figure out how to do it. Doesn't look difficult.