user 69696969

I was washing and then working on vaccum and some carpet cleaning. My daughter was climbing around and without the key in the ignition the radio came on. I am not sure if she did somthing or not, she was touch and pushing buttons and stuff. So then I began finishing and closing doors when I noticed one of the doors ( I think the rear drivers side) sounded like it was either trying to unlock or lock. I locked the doors and it stoped. I went for a ride and while driving the doors wouldnt lock and when I locked them manually and approached a light they unlocked.

I tried looking this up and will proceed to do so but figured one of you scholars may know. Thanks

user 69696969

If fuse, which one should I pull?

user 69696969

Could it have been the bulb? I am checking now but when I pulled the lights on without the key in, the locks went ( not sure if it was lock or unlock but I would bet un).

user 69696969

Thats what it was, go figure. Or at least it started when the bulb went and stopped when I fixed it.

user 69696969

So nobody has had the same issue? Anyone have the same light go out and not have the issue?

marc hanna

Sorry. I haven't had an issue like this before. Two thoughts though:

1. Have you tried disconnecting the battery?
2. My old ML320 auto-locking was controlled by the central lock button - I don't remember exactly, but with the key in a certain position, hold down the lock button for 5 seconds and this would change the lock settings.

user 69696969

its working just fine now. It seemed just to odd for a parking bulb to go out and it somehow effect the locks. I thought it was 2 separate things. or that my daughter had done something like holding buttons and such. So while I searched for a solution to the door locks I bought new bulbs. Still hoping to find a solution I figured I would replace the bulb and keep checking. I was searching for the fuse for the door locks.

I switched bulbs, started the car and shut it off. When I restarted it everything was normal. So unless it just arrived, by chance, and left at the same time I would say it was the bulb.

The only thing I can think of is that the parking lights are tied to the auto locks and such. Like when you lock the doors the parking lights flash. So maybe when the system alerted that the bulb was out it also left a circuit open or closed causing the computer to over react.

I bought the cheaper bulb at oreilys. one was 5 the other was 10. I can not tell the difference. I was going to replace both but figured that would leave me with a used bulb I would probably lose or forget. So I have another for when the other goes out.

marc hanna

It's possible - maybe an overcorrect or something goofing with the electronics.

On my ML, I wired in an aftermarket trailer harness once, and it affected my ESP. All kinds of wacky stuff with my brakes and steering.

Glad to hear you got your problem resolved.

BTW, whenever I replace bulbs and fuses, I put a tiny dab of dielectric grease on each contact to make sure no corrosion occurs or any arcing. This simple step can prevent a lot of electrical/electronic gremlins. It's an absolute must on motorcycles.

user 69696969

Good to know. I will get some for next time.

marc hanna

You can get a tube of Permatex for about $5 - $10 and it will last you for years. Unlike regular grease dielectric grease conducts electricity and therefore works as an excellent corrosion inhibitor and gap filler in electrical contacts.

This is beneficial because sometimes poor fitting bulbs, connectors, and fuses can cause little arcs that can produce heat, material displacement, electrical noise, and moisture entrapment. Just be careful not to glob it on such that you create a short.

josworth

Sorry Marc but gotta jump in on this one.

Dielectric Grease is not conductive. It will not break down when exposed to high current, like that present in ignition systems. It is good to help prevent corrosion on sockets... but how it does it is by sealing the area around contact. The conductive surfaces push the grease out when making contact. The grease remains around the area of contact.

http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm

marc hanna

Yup, you're right. I never really questioned the original explanation I got for it years ago. Either way, definitely want to continue using it, except now I'm going to use it more liberally.