rain inside the car???
10-28-2009, 05:35 PM
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rain inside the car???
hi i pruchased a mint condition 300sd a while back.. the original owner had it for close to 30 years since its a 1980 and he only drove it about 5000 miles a year.
i have brought the car to the wash numerous times with no water ever coming inside the car.
lately in ny its been raining the past couple days and when i came to my car this morning the driver rear seat and passenger rear seat floor pans were full with water. About 2inch on driver rear seat side and 1/2 inch on passenger rear seat side.
i drilled two drain holes in the back corners of the floor panel and the water immedietely evactuated.. Since then there has been little water buildup but there is still water coming into the car alitte at a time. If i look at the seat belt pillars toward the bottom of the floor the carpet is only wet in that little spot on both sides. Is that where the water is originating from? The rubber door seals are dryed out and cracked somewhat on both sides. is that the problem? because in the drivers seat floor pan and passenger side floor pan theres no water at all. The back rear windsheild gets foggy somewhat also when it raining when the cars parked? does this mean the rubber seals all need to be replaced?
i have brought the car to the wash numerous times with no water ever coming inside the car.
lately in ny its been raining the past couple days and when i came to my car this morning the driver rear seat and passenger rear seat floor pans were full with water. About 2inch on driver rear seat side and 1/2 inch on passenger rear seat side.
i drilled two drain holes in the back corners of the floor panel and the water immedietely evactuated.. Since then there has been little water buildup but there is still water coming into the car alitte at a time. If i look at the seat belt pillars toward the bottom of the floor the carpet is only wet in that little spot on both sides. Is that where the water is originating from? The rubber door seals are dryed out and cracked somewhat on both sides. is that the problem? because in the drivers seat floor pan and passenger side floor pan theres no water at all. The back rear windsheild gets foggy somewhat also when it raining when the cars parked? does this mean the rubber seals all need to be replaced?
Last edited by Hercules86; 10-28-2009 at 05:37 PM.
12-28-2010, 04:58 AM
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W212 E500, W164 320CDI, W116 450SEL 6.9, W116 450 SEL.
Or rust around the front drain holes of your sunroof frame or your bulkhead particularly beneath the master cylinder/fusebox area.
The front sunroof drains can be seen about half way up front door hinge area at the front door leading edge and are visible as rubber tubes protruding when the doors are wide open.
Either compressed air or careful use with string trimmer line will clear them.
Bill
The front sunroof drains can be seen about half way up front door hinge area at the front door leading edge and are visible as rubber tubes protruding when the doors are wide open.
Either compressed air or careful use with string trimmer line will clear them.
Bill
05-24-2011, 08:56 PM
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1980 300SD
Probably your sunroof drains are clogged or you have a windscreen leak.
Probably you want to replace all the rubber stuff - it just doesn't hold up for 30+ years very well. I'm looking at replacing the front/rear windscreen gaskets, the door seals, the window trim, the sunroof seals, the seals around the rear taillights, a seal on the power antenna, and also some other rubber parts I've spotted in not-so-great shape. About $1500 to do it all with OEM parts, plus probably around $150 to have the windscreen replaced by somebody more competent than myself. I figure it's a bit pricey but a good investment for the next 30 years, as I intend on keeping this car running that long.
Probably you want to replace all the rubber stuff - it just doesn't hold up for 30+ years very well. I'm looking at replacing the front/rear windscreen gaskets, the door seals, the window trim, the sunroof seals, the seals around the rear taillights, a seal on the power antenna, and also some other rubber parts I've spotted in not-so-great shape. About $1500 to do it all with OEM parts, plus probably around $150 to have the windscreen replaced by somebody more competent than myself. I figure it's a bit pricey but a good investment for the next 30 years, as I intend on keeping this car running that long.
03-22-2012, 08:05 AM
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Fogging or freezing on the inside of the car is most easily solved by the
following
1) Use a (inside) glass cleaner like Windex, and clean the glass so it's
spotless
(Remember to really buff it with a dry towel -it's an important
step)
Clean glass on the inside is a MUST to reduce the risk of
condensation.
2) When you get into a cold car, crack a back window open and start up
your fan on defrost to start air moving on the inside of the windshield as
well as the cabin. Try to leave your door open till until after you have
started the motor and cranked up the fan.
Keep this up until you are getting warm air, at which point you can
start shifting where the air is sent
You are generating humid air by breathing and it will automatically
hit the glass as condensation. The open window lets out warm moist air, and
lets in cooler dryer air.
3) If you have tracked snow or rain into the car, keep the air moving and
the window cracked to reduce the risk of condensation, until the water has
been eliminated
following
1) Use a (inside) glass cleaner like Windex, and clean the glass so it's
spotless
(Remember to really buff it with a dry towel -it's an important
step)
Clean glass on the inside is a MUST to reduce the risk of
condensation.
2) When you get into a cold car, crack a back window open and start up
your fan on defrost to start air moving on the inside of the windshield as
well as the cabin. Try to leave your door open till until after you have
started the motor and cranked up the fan.
Keep this up until you are getting warm air, at which point you can
start shifting where the air is sent
You are generating humid air by breathing and it will automatically
hit the glass as condensation. The open window lets out warm moist air, and
lets in cooler dryer air.
3) If you have tracked snow or rain into the car, keep the air moving and
the window cracked to reduce the risk of condensation, until the water has
been eliminated
