jhusen

Hello all - I am not only new to the forum - I'm also new to MB vehicles. But I've owned a few Land Rovers, so I am very familiar with tempermnental vehicles!

I've owned my 560 for a few months now. There were a few issues when I bought it - mainly superficial (sunroof didn't work and neither did the crusie control or power mirror). All is fixed except the mirror.

I've enjoyed this car (maybe too much - I've already gotten a 100+mph ticket - back road by myself....except for the county officer) - it is a fantastic driver and so comfortable considering the year. It only had 77K when I bought it so I felt good about the mileage on an older car.

Well in the last couple of weeks I noticed a knock/click coming from the drivers side in the engine. Thought it was an injector - but I had the fuel system cleaned after I bought it and it checked out great. Ran some injector cleaner through it last week and nothing changed. The car idles fine - no misses or rough starts. Everything seems to be OK mechanicaly - fluids check out OK and no odd coloration.

I did pull off the rear resonator though (wanted a deeper sound - come to find out it didn't make much different except at start) - and I thought maybe I had cracked the exhaust or something like this. But it sounds like it's a "lifter" or something like that. But trying to listen with the old "broom stick" method produces no specific location of the sound...any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Jeremy

onizika

the sound at the road or in park you hear it because it make all the deference
if at road check the tyre it may need a new bearing

Untertürkheim

It is probably a lifter, non synthetic oils often cause lifters to harden or fill with varnish, making them "tick". Unless the original owner and you have always been running synthetic oil, I would bet on the lifter.

I would reccomend Pentosin 5w-40 or Mobil 1 0w-40, both available at amazon.com. I use the Pentosin in my 560SEC

jhusen

Thanks for the response - the sound is at park in idle as well as moving and seems to keep time with the engine - hence the lifter is probably the culprit. How quickly can you expect results going to synthetic? Should I do an oil flush? Should I take it in and have it checked? Will a gunked up lifter cause issues other than a loud ticking and loss of power? Could it lead to other bad results?

Untertürkheim

Do not do an oil flush.

The synthetic oils will remove the varnish and sludge from your engine, how quickly depends on your driving style and how much is in there to begin with.

You should notice an improvement relatively quickly, within the first few hundred miles. But the problem may continue up to another 5-10k miles. Again, this depends on your driving style and the amount gunk you had to begin with.

The Syn oils will also far extend the life of your engine and all the internal components. Less timing chain stretch, valve stem seals and lifters are some of the benefits.

jhusen

Thanks again for the input - I will change the oil this weekend. I don't drive the car very much - like to keep it out of the rain as much as possible. And since I don't drive too much it may take a while to clean the system. Although, since I don't drive much I don't think the build up is that bad either.

How hard is it to remove the oil pan?

jhodg5kc

I for one would Not run a 0 weight anything in these engines. 10 @ the lightest if you live Way up north. Anywhere down south, 15 does well, and w/ synthetic you can likely run 20w50 year round.

I would also recommend you pull your valve cover for a look, make sure one of your oil line clips has not come loose, or that a rocker isn't failing.

How many miles on your coupe?

Jonathan

jhusen

Jonathan,

I live in Oregon - so maybe the 10-40 would work best. The car only has 80,000 miles on it. I thought it might be somehting else as well - figured I would go ahead and change the oil first - then dive deeper if that hasn't fixed. I'm afraid though that on my last oil change I had them put in standrad 10-30 and the fact that it isn't Synthetic is creating the havoc. But I appreciate the advice! I really need to get a service manual - any recommendations?

Jeremy

Untertürkheim

These engines are not designed to run with a -30 anything.

jhodg5kc

@ that low a mileage everything should be nice and quiet. I would go ahead and pull the valve covers to be Sure...last thing you want to is to eat a cam ($$$).

Running dyno is Fine.. Your biggest problem these days is finding oil that is still formulated with our engines in mind. The 'new' 07/08 approved oils are NG for these engines..they have a very Real lack of zinc, phosphate and various other anti wear additives that our engines Need.

If you are going to run Synthetic, the new M1 is out, however Royal Purple, Amsoil or my personal Fav. Brad Penn Racing does meet those standards.

For an off the shelf, readily available dino oil Valvoline Racing 20/50 is an Excellent oil that I'm running in everything that's got some miles on it's valve guides...

I have service manuals available, 20$ to your door, shoot me an email and we'll get it squared away, blueridgemb@gmail.com

Jonathan

Untertürkheim

If you want a heavier weight oil, the M1 15w-50 Extended Performance has a lot of anti-wear additives, and it meets the older 229.1 MB spec (ideal for these engines).

jhusen

Thanks for all the help - I changed oil this weekend to M1 10-40. Cleaned out as much of the oil that remained in the oil filter houseing. No metal flakes around the drain plug and the oil color was fine - dark - but OK. I ran it a bit but I think I need to run a few more miles to see if it makes any difference in the ticking - but this weekend i will be pulling off the drivers side valve cover - anything I should be prepared for? Also - my oil pressure gauge runs between the 2 and the 3 - is that normal?

jhusen

So I pulled the valve cover this weekend and sure enough one of the rocker arms was loose (fair amount of play up and down). I called the shop hoping that there was an adjustment or shims that could be added to take the play out. They said no - the lifters are all hydralicaly actuated and said it had to be replaced. There is a bit of scarring on the cam where the lobe hit's the rocker arm. The garage quoted me $900US to repair the lifter. Couple of questions - should I replace the cam as well as the lifter. How much more should I expect to pay for the cam and is $900 a reasonable price to pay for this operation? Thanks.

hineywineries

I've gotta start charging more.