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Old 09-27-2002, 03:04 AM   #1
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A/C Evaporator Leak Sealant, It Works!

A Mercedes air conditioning evaporator leak, can give you a sick feeling like it did me.

I have found an evaporator leak repair that works...

There is a product that you can use to seal the evaporator leak! My 1996 S320 evaporator just started leaking 30 days after purchase. You can smell the A/C oil in the A/C vents especially after you car has been setting for a while. Smell the vent air when first start the car. Kind of a sweet oily smell. As the Freon leaks out, oil comes with it, that is what you can smell the oil. It stays on the evaporator and in the bottom of the box.

If you have a slow leak. 1 or more weeks to go warm than CryoSeal will probably work for you. CryoSeal fails 1 in 150 uses. The product has been use for many years for commercial and industrial A/C units. It is an epoxy a that cures when it hits moisture and air when passing through the evaporator hole, at the site of the pin hole leak to form a permeant seal. Research it from the links below. I have even called the company and spoken to and quizzed them on the product. It has worked in my S320 so far. It is important to get to the leak when it is small and sealable. A 1 or more week leak! It is important not to let your freon pressure go all the way down so moisture can get in the system. Follow the instructions to the T. I called a few Mercedes and Volvo shops that use it and all said it worked 90% the time for them. Many people don't understand the product and make bad comments about it based on lack of knowledge. I will not harm your system. Research, Research, Research. It is a great product and it does work. It is expensive, about $140 for a two part kit, 2- 4oz. cans. DO NOT confuse this product with Cheap A/C Stop Leak O-ring conditioner sold in auto parts stores. This is professional product sold from the company {www.cryo-chem.com} or through A/C distributor's to professionals. I had to drive to a local distributor in Atlanta, GA that auto A/C shops use. One can of chemical dries all moisture in the system, the other is the epoxy sealant. My system had just gotten low and never empty of freon so it always had a pressure no moisture could get in. I used a 134a charging kit and did it myself, it takes 10 minutes to install and you must run the A/C for an hour after installation, I drove around to make sure it circulated well in the system. If your system is or ever was empty of freon {134a} or opened to replace a part, you will have to replace the drier an evacuate the system. Remember it must be a slow leak. Don't waste your money with a 1 or 2 day leak out. The hole is to big. It also won't work on a rare crack in a solder joint. Moisture in the system forms acids that attack the evaporator and cause pin hole leaks in the aluminum. Make sure your system is dry in the future by adding CryoSeal's TuneAir to keep it dry. This is what you should consider if you have a leak, unless your car is under warranty or you have money spend on the repair, $2500 to $3900, ouch. I have decided that I will use CryoSeal 134a on my next Mercedes or Volvo {they have the same problem} as a preventative measure, so it will stop any microscopic leaks and I will never know. It stopped my leak so far, I would gladly paid $200 for CryoSeal. It is supposed to be a permanent seal and continues to seal future micro leaks as it circulate through the A/C plumbing. Some of the local shops that use it I called and one charges $650 to put it in a Mercedes. Some other shops bad mouthed the product but after quizzing them I could see they new nothing about it. CryoSeal could reduce the number of $3500 evaporator jobs they get. It even comes with a 1 year warranty, that is how they can track there failure rate of 1 in 150 uses. They say 1 in 6 of the uses are Mercedes.

Good luck. Post your results here. I hope this helps some of you and saves you $$$$.


This is the product that worked for me and is the best.

http://www.cryochem.com/CRYOseal.html


This is an article from a professional trade magazine. It looks at 4 sealant's. One is the type sold at K-mart etc. {JUNK} and one uses a similar method {1 can}to seal leaks, and another Keep-It -Cool is a 2-part product like CryoSeal {CryoSeal is the best}.

http://www.coolprofits.com/articles/...ealants_p1.htm


If you think you have a leak and have to replace your evaporator look at this link first.

http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html



This is not an advertisement. I have no interest in any company. I am a Mercedes owner who "HAD" an evaporator leak. I have found something that works for me and wanted to share my findings. I try to be very detail in my explanation. I gave all facts and links for you anyone to decide.
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Last edited by EdS320; 09-29-2002 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 09-28-2002, 12:33 PM   #2
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Oh well....this info came about 14 days late and $3500 short for me....if I would have known about it, I would have tried it......

Incidentally, my AC does not kick as hard after the evaporator repair as it did before. I need to set it at a lower temperature in order to get the same cooling effect. The blower doesn't kick in as hard as well. Anyone familiar with this? Either way, it's going back to the dealer to have them do it right this time.......
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Old 09-29-2002, 12:18 AM   #3
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Sorry reading your post first made me post my experience.

Evaporator replacement is such a big job with many items to put back just right. Many diaphragms and vacuum tubing connectors, etc. I interviewed a tech that I was going to let do my job before I used the sealant. He had done about 100 replacements and said he had repaired a few botched jobs other techs/shops had done. He said, he new where every screw went if they were all in a tub. That was my concern, things not working correctly after the repair. Try to know who will do your job. Check his experience, certificates, awards, etc., call references. After all it can be a $3000+ job, getting references is not out of line.
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Old 10-16-2002, 12:25 PM   #4
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What is involved with replacing the evaporator? Someone in the thread posted 29 hours of labor! Wow!
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Old 11-08-2002, 12:39 AM   #5
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Lightbulb

As a tech we have tried it all and sad to say cryoseal is only a patch fix, it will leak again. It also will mess up the system by clogging e-valve and on some cars destroying compressor.I have done hundreds of 140 evaps ,easy job for the right tech.We only get 18 hrs to do them.I have never had a complaint from any of my customers of the job I did. All screws in place and I have even had to replace screws where they were missing from someone before. If you want the car right correct the problem the proper way dont start adding (junk) to it. Yea it might work for now but mark my words it will cost you more in the long run. Replacing the evap is not a long job usually takes a day at the most. Like 124,129,210,202,201,126 along with 140's they have evaporator leaks that are common . Replace it with the new type and it will never leak again.
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Old 11-08-2002, 10:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by euro 287
As a tech we have tried it all and sad to say cryoseal is only a patch fix, it will leak again. It also will mess up the system by clogging e-valve and on some cars destroying compressor.I have done hundreds of 140 evaps ,easy job for the right tech.We only get 18 hrs to do them.I have never had a complaint from any of my customers of the job I did. All screws in place and I have even had to replace screws where they were missing from someone before. If you want the car right correct the problem the proper way dont start adding (junk) to it. Yea it might work for now but mark my words it will cost you more in the long run. Replacing the evap is not a long job usually takes a day at the most. Like 124,129,210,202,201,126 along with 140's they have evaporator leaks that are common . Replace it with the new type and it will never leak again.


What is a new type of evaporator for 140?
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Old 11-09-2002, 05:21 PM   #7
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What I mean by new type is not a copper/aluminum one .I prefer straight aluminum myself and they dont make noise. You cannont make a seal between copper and aluminum. I have had customers who I installed evaps in 8 years ago still say it works perfect and no problems since repair. Get the right tech to do it it will come out right. famous quote ( If you think a good european tech is expensive , try a bad one). I have had customers read that sign on my wall and they agree, cause they have been there and have had to pay alot to get it fixed right. Good luck just my 2cents
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Old 11-13-2002, 02:55 AM   #8
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CryoSeal is "still" holding the seal for me on my evaporator. I will keep an update and I will report if the Cryo-Seal fails.

Cryo-Seal is not a "patch fix" if the criteria is meet for the repair, it won't on joint cracks or a system with other problems, but is best on the slow pin hole aluminum leak caused by acid which is the Mercedes evaporator problem. So don't spend the money if you don't have a slow leak, to check a slow leak recharge the system or have your shop do it, and time how long it takes to leak out or stop cooling 1 to 2 weeks is best, smell the air vents on first start up for a sweet oily smell to verify an evaporator leak and yes check the under hood area for oily leaks should it not be the evaporator. It is a proven product in the industry and causes no damage to the system in any way. Failures are caused by other issues related to the leak that you are trying to fix, and probably related to moisture thus aluminum corrosion in the system. I have done a lot of research on the product and issue before use. It is an alterative to a $3000 evaporator replacement and has been used successfully used on thousands and thousands of evaporators, auto and commercial for years. In my case, it has been worth every penny {$120} to avoid the evaporator replacement if even for a few years. An excellent shop and tech I chose to do my evaporator replacement before I used the CryoSeal didn't like CyroSeal but knew very little about it, huh, I still have my $3000! Other shops that I contacted that use it on Mercedes and Volvo said it worked on 90% of the evaporators and many shops use it. If it wasn't such a big job I would prefer to have the evaporator replaced with all copper. Copper evaporator tubing is now prefered by the insustry over aluminum. Some Mercedes owners have have had their aluminum evaporators replaced again in as few as 4 years. Your Mercedes A/C system must be kept dry...to avoid leaks and failures. Cryo-Seal is so proven it came with a 1 Year warranty with mail in registration after use, it help them track the use and failure of their product. There is one company that makes an all copper evaporator that alot of Mercedes owner request but I can't find the name at this time, I think they are in Arizonia. Good Luck!

Notes:

"Metallurgical changes were made in the mid-80s, probably to save weight. Copper/brass were replaced with aluminum. Now 10-15 years later, evaporators are probably the #2 refrigeration problem, behind compressors. Number two in occurrence, but a big #1 in cost .New copper tube coils eliminate corrosion problems that plague aluminum versions."

SERVICE BULLETIN #3S REV-4 (MAY, 1998) AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEM CONTAMINATION COMPRESSOR, CONDENSER & EVAPORATOR FAILURE DUE TO ACID IN SYSTEM OVERVIEW All air conditioners have a component that contains a chemical (desiccant) that absorbs moisture. If it is located on the high pressure side, (between the condenser and the evaporator) it is called a filter drier or receiver drier. If the component is located on the low pressure side, (between the evaporator and the compressor) it is called an accumulator. In either case it is simply a metal tank containing a moisture absorbing chemical. We have learned that air permeates (or goes through) the rubber hoses of the a/c system. Air also enters the system through loose fittings, deteriorated o-rings, and Schrader ports. Even though the air conditioner has refrigerant in it, which means the pressure in the inside of the system is greater than the outside, air will still enter the system. We also know that air is mostly moisture (water). Filter driers/accumulators are designed to hold enough desiccant to absorb the amount of moisture that will enter a system in about a year's time. Of course, in the real world, with variations in humidity and other factors, the drier may become saturated with moisture in as little as only a few months or as long as several years. The important thing is that at some point, usually between one and three years of installation, the drier is no longer able to absorb the moisture. This moisture will mix and react with the refrigerant to form various acids. The acid will "eat" away at the metal surfaces and rubber hose, flaking off bits of material that will collect at the filter drier/accumulator screen, expansion valve, orifice tube, and the compressor. This debris will slow or stop the flow of oil from returning to the compressor and will cause compressor failure. Evaporators, especially aluminum units, commonly fail because of leaks that develop at the bottom of the core. These leaks are caused by acids that collect at the bottom of the evaporator and "eat" through the very thin aluminum.

A/C REPAIR TRENDS
More than half of the A/C work that is being done today is being done on vehicles that are nine or more years old. Many of these jobs involve a major repair such as replacing a compressor, condenser or evaporator.
The underlying cause in many instances is the loss of refrigerant due to leaks and/or internal corrosion. If air and moisture get inside the A/C system, it can form corrosive acids. Over time, the acid can eat pinholes in evaporators and condensers. Many compressor failures, on the other hand, are caused because there is a lack of lubrication. Refrigerant leaks also allow the compressor oil to leak out of the system. If an orifice tube becomes clogged as a result of internal corrosion or freezing, it can prevent the lubricant from circulating back to the compressor.

When an A/C system is opened up to replace a hose or one of the major components, air and moisture can enter the lines and get inside the system. The only way the unwanted air and moisture can be removed is to vacuum purge the system after the parts have been installed. But even this can't restore the system's ability to protect itself in the future. Inside the accumulator or receiver drier is a crystalline substance called a desiccant that absorbs moisture. Over time, the desiccant can become saturated and lose its ability to protect against moisture contamination and corrosion. That's why you should always recommend replacing the accumulator or receiver drier when a compressor, evaporator or condenser is being replaced.

In cases where a compressor has failed, the replacement compressor may soon fail too after it has been installed because of residual debris and contamination in the system. When a compressor blows, it can spew a lot of metallic debris into the system. Most of this debris ends up in the condenser, but some of it may blow back into the suction hose or get as far as the orifice tube or evaporator. If the debris is not removed, it can be dislodged by the flow of refrigerant when the system is returned to service. And it can plug up the orifice tube or damage the new compressor.
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Old 11-13-2002, 09:41 PM   #9
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I take it I hit someone has some stock in cryo-seal, LOL. Anyways as someone who works on these cars for a living cryo seal is JUNK. Patch fix whatever you wanna call it its no better than putting bargs stop leak in your cooling system, Its a temporary fix to a problem that will come back. I like most techs have seen what this crap does to a/c systems and if you think otherwise you are kidding yourself. But its your car and your money we are just here to fix em right, and give advice. Its up to you the customer to do it right or wrong , to others who are thinking of cryo-seal ask a few Mercedes Technicians who work on em every day and see their opinion. I dont know 1 who endorses that stuff because of the effects. Have fun
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Old 11-14-2002, 12:46 AM   #10
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euro 287 Your comments are interesting.
No Flame intended. But I see no facts, research, reports, links, service bulletins, phone contacts to substantiate your post other than personal dislike of the product and shop talk. Sorry, but your comments concerning Cryo-Seal just are not true and unsubstantiated. Please post one independent research or industry article concerning Cryo-Seal or it's components damaging any system or failing to work if the leak criteria is met and the instructions are followed. I have made every effort to substantiate all the information in my post to enable the reader to make an educated descision. I've put links to support all the information as well as personal research and experience with the product as well as how it works and who uses it. I have spoken the owners of Cryo-Seal about the product before I purchased it from a local A/C distributor that sell to A/C service companies. I have called shops who reputation is on the line with customers that use the product. There is A/C stop leak JUNK on the market for sale at K-Mart and auto stores that better meet your comments and I would call those useless. For the information of others, you will not find Cryo-Seal in any consumer store, it is not intended for consumers or the do-it-yourselfer. Consumers wishing to use it must order from the company or purchase from a distributor near them, you can have a local shop test your system and put it in if there leak meets the criteria in the instructions. The instruction are online at the Cryo-Seal link in the first post. It comes in 2 small cans so you can't use to much. It is a chemical that has been used in commercial and industrial A/C evaporators world wide when leaks can not be found and it is cost prohibitive to replace the evaporator and I can assure you those companies would not introduce any product into there commercial system that would compromise the system. That could cost them tens of thousands of dollars in repairs and down time and possible inventory loss. It was introduced to the auto A/C market and has worked as well as in the industrial environment. I will leave it at that. I have owned many cares in my years including 12 Porsche's I have rebuilt and maintained. I studied and passed the exam to get a MACS A/C certificate to allow me to work on own A/C systems. I replaced one evaporator in an American car once and swore I would never do that job again. And if my evaporator develops joint cracks where Cryo-Seal won't work I will gladly pay to have the job done. I can assure you that any A/C system failures you have seen had other malfunctions that caused the failure and it was not related to Cryo-Seal, because it is just not possible to harm a system if the instructions are followed. Mechanics often will mistake common aluminum corrosion in the system as Cryo-Seal you won't see Cryo-seal. Sometimes new products are hard to accept in an industry when the product affects your livelihood.

I trust that any reader of these posts can make there own educated decision if the use of Cryo-Seal is right for their situation. It was the right decision for me and my system is operating perfectly with Cryo-Seal. If anyone has any doubts, I would urge you to make phone calls and research. Call Cryo-Seal ask for shops in your area that buy the product and call those shops and talk about it. I called Mercedes only shops that use it
and had no negative comments, they also replace evaporators. I have no financial interest in Cryo-Seal in any way. I will use it in my next Mercedes as a preventive measure. I have tried to answer question anyone may have concerning the product. I doubt Cryo-Seal company would be successfully in business another day if they didn't provide a valuable and tested product to the A/C industry. Caution of the look-a-like companies. I can not vouch for them. As one can tell from my post's, I just like SUPPORTED FACTS!
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Old 11-14-2002, 01:15 AM   #11
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Posting my experience and experience of other Mercedes techs also. We have to warranty our repairs and we have seen and dealt with Patch fixes , it just doesnt work unless you are a used car dealer and just wanna sell the car.
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Old 07-02-2003, 10:58 AM   #12
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EdS320,

I am new to the forum and also new to the Atlanta area. I think I may have an A/C problem similar to the one you had.

Can you refer me to a good MB tech in the area? I'm looking to save $$$ when fixing my A/C.

How has the Cryoseal held up?

Thank you,
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Old 07-04-2003, 12:42 AM   #13
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I am pleased to report that the Cryoseal has continued to keep my evaporator leak sealed. It has been just about 1 year next month. We are using the A/C alot now with summer here. Cryoseal says it is a permanent seal for the leaks it seals. Cryo seal says it will continue to seal new leaks. So far I am VERY PLEASED with the Cryoseal results and leak seal.

I have checked with and received evaporator replacement estimates from 4 Atlanta area MB dealers before I researched and I decided to use Cryoseal. The only one I would use is Alex Automotive in Duluth, GA. I visited the NEW shop and spoke to the evaporator tech. who would have done the job and grilled him about the repair. They were happy to show me around the shop and let me speak with the tech and see where the job would be done and how he would do it and his experience. Check them out and I'll bet you will agree they and there tech's are very good. There parts dept. is great also. The parts guy will gladly identify a part # and get me any little part I need. I'm a do-it-yourselfer on many repairs, and the other guys in town couldn't care less for my parts business. He also helps with repair parts questions. There evaporator replacement estimate came in at about $2700....a good price, and they will do it if I ever need it...

Good Luck!

Last edited by EdS320; 07-04-2003 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 07-04-2003, 10:10 AM   #14
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Hey Ed,
my ac stopped working also. How difficult was to put cyro seal in your car. Iam looking to do it. Instead of spending $2500+ on my baby.

Where would i find instructions on it?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-04-2003, 11:46 AM   #15
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EdS320,

Thanks for the response. I am lookking at purchasing the CryoSeal kit for my slow (1.5 weeks now and still working) evaporator leak. I looked at their website and they require EPA certification.

1. How do I go about buying the kit?
2. How difficult is it to install?

I figure that since it is a slow leak I will need to save $$ for an evaporatorjob if I need it later.

Thanks,
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Old 07-05-2003, 01:54 AM   #16
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Your "slow" leak is a perfect candidate for Cryoseal. Make sure it is the evaporator though. You can usually smell the A/C oil in the vents on startup of the A/C. Kind of a sweet oily-chemical smell opposed to the common musty smell. Put your nose right up to the vent seconds after you turn on the A/C. Cryoseal will also seal leaks in other area's of the system, just as long as the sealing agent can leak out and become exposed to air and moisture at the leak site. Won't seal a leaking compressor...but you would see plenty of oil at the compressor leak site.

///S320

I passed the A/C certification test years ago when it was needed for the old freon so I just put it in myself. I probably would recommend finding a local A/C shop or guy to do it for you if you are not comfortable working with the A/C system. One mistake and $150 in Cryoseal could be gone...You may find some shops or techs who speak bad of Cryoseal. I have found this is usually because they have no experience with it or have tried it on a repair it shouldn't have been used on and they just are not up to date in the industry. I spoke with some Mercedes and Volvo shop that use it and are pleased with it as an option for their customers. If you have some experience with recharging an A/C system with R134A you can probably use Cryoseal. You need the recharge kit with 134A hose and pressure gauge. I first charged up my low system to normal. {I had a slow 1 week leak} and added 2oz. of compressor oil to compensate for the lost oil caused by the leak. Cryoseal comes in 2 small 4oz. can's. The first put in the system is a super drying agent. {the system must be DRY} Then you must run the A/C for 30 min. to circulate it and dry the system. I ran my A/C for one hour. The second is the sealing agent. It is put in and you run the A/C on high for another 30 min., I drove around for an hour again to make sure it circulate to help seal the leak. That was it. Haven't touched the system since last August {11 months}. Just MAKE SURE WHO EVER DOES IT FOLLOWS THE DIRECTION TO THE LETTER. Since my system had never been totally discharged or opened, I didn't replace the dryer. I would recommend replacing the dryer and recharging if the system has been opened.

I purchased my Cryoseal {SSR134 Kit} from a local national A/C distributor in Marietta, GA. who sells to the A/C shops in the Atlanta area. I didn't have to show my certification card to purchase Cryoseal, or 134A. But, I think you can order from the manufacture by phone. Or any A/C shop can should be able to get it. I was surprised to find that shops charge about $400 to do a Cryoseal job in a Mercedes or Volvo {which have the same evap. problem}.

Read this whole thread from page one and click on the links {www.cryochem.com} on my first post on page one to do your own research. Call Cryoseal with any question like I did.

I have no affiliation with Cryoseal.

Good Luck...and post your experiences.
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Old 07-22-2003, 10:11 AM   #17
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Hello:

I have several questions for you guys and I wonder if someone could give me some information about this. I have an S320-1994 and sometimes, not all the time, it smells strange when it has been closed for a day or so. How could I know if this is the problem with the evaporator?. After reading all the problems and the complexity of replacing this evaporator, I have been using my A/C very sporadically in order to avoid this problem. Even when I havent used the A/C for days or weeks sometimes it smells strange nad then it goes away. By not using the A/C frequently, does the risk of having this problem diminished?. Does servicing your A/C diminish the potencial of this occuring?. I gather that this one of the mayor and most frequent problems with this car, but does it happen to all of them, or there are exceptions to this?. I really don't know if this smell is coming from the evaporator, but if it was wouldn't it be present all the time?. My A/C seems to work fine so far, but I am very worried about this. Could please give some information in regards to this.
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Old 07-24-2003, 05:54 AM   #18
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From my experience and knowledge the musty smell may be coming from your A/C evaporator box and not the evaporator. With an evaporator leak will smell like a sweet oil from the vent's on the start of your cooling, you will also loose your cooling. The box is where the evaporator resides. As you use the A/C, water will condense on the coils and drip down to the bottom and out of the box at the center bottom of your car. That's the clean water puddle under your car when you sit in a spot for a while, if your drain tubes are not plugged up. The musty smell often comes from this box as some of the water in the bottom of the box never has a chance to dry in summer and gives off the musty odor. The odor should go away when you use the A/C after a few minutes. There are some products that control the evaporator odor, most cars have an odor.

There is not much you can do to avoid an evaporator leak, other than making sure your 134A freon is DRY in the system. That requires replacement of the dryer on a regular basis and it would help to add CryoSeal drying agent {TuneAir} to the system to control any moisture that gets in when the system is opened. But any time you open up an A/C system you risk moisture getting in. So it may be best to just add TuneAir drier. If you have any evaporator corrosion it's probably there already. Enjoy and use your A/C if it works. If you do get an to evaporator leak EARLY with CryoSeal you can stop the leak and extend the life of the evaporator if you have the right kind of leak, or a seal-able good leak.

Google.com search evaporator odor control:
http://www.keep-it-kool.com/treat/treatment.html
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Old 07-24-2003, 08:55 AM   #19
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Thank you for your advice, I greatly appreciate it!. I hope that I will be able to prevent this from happening.
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Old 08-05-2003, 01:34 AM   #20
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This sounds like a marketing pitch for cryoseal; confusing the public with wordy responses.

Smells like snake oil.
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Old 08-07-2003, 04:29 AM   #21
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Sorry, "cjharris98" but it's not. Try reading all the post before posting. As I stated many times before I have no interest in CryoSeal other than trying to help others with an expensive evaporator problem I had, and found a successful solution that worked for me. Sorry if my detailed post's confuse you...
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Old 03-15-2004, 06:39 PM   #22
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Hi Eds320

How has the cryoseal been holding up for you? Thanks Ed, mine is getting weak and I'm just hoping it just needs recharging.
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Old 03-16-2004, 03:29 AM   #23
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Davetruong,

It is still holding. It has been now 18 months. I will admit I still hold my breath a just little when I turn the A/C on now that we are going into the warmer season here. I had just the slow evaporator leak it works best on if you read all the posts. But so far I am very pleased with the results. If I should get a SLOW leak out again and can verify it is the evaporator I may try it again in an attempt to postpone the $3000 repair. But I could have another non evaporator leak, leak that Cryoseal is not intended for...But so far it was worth every penny spent.
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Old 03-16-2004, 12:41 PM   #24
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Ed

Hey Ed,

Thanks for your prompt reply. How hard is it to get the cryoseal sent to me? I'm in California. I would definately try this before forking up a few grand
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:20 PM   #25
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I just bought a 93 300 SE that had the bad evap. I also have a 95 E420 that HAD the same problem. I figured for what it cost to fix these things I would invest in a few AC tools. I bought a gauge set for 134a and a vacuum pump . I did a bunch of reading on AC and the sealers. I was not sure if I could buy the Cryo so I picked up a product called Super Seal for about $20 bucks. I follwed the directions and I bought a new drier and for the E420 a new expansion valve! The E420 has been going for over a year now and the 300SE which I did not give a prayer has been holding for a week now! If I had to fix both of those cars would have cost me 8 grand !! No way Jose!!!I would go the seal route first anytime!!

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Old 07-20-2009, 05:20 PM
 
 
 
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