96 S500

[starky]

I had real "harsh" ride in the rear. checked the hydraulic reservoir & it was dark. I changed my accumulators & STILL have the harsh ride. Not sure what to address next? I bled my hydraulic line via the bleed screw on the lever control valve & put new fluid in it. I put "Cortec" accumulators on it & used the BILSTEIN hydraulic fluid. Anyone have suggestions as to WHERE to go from here? I have no leaks anywhere & struts aren't leaking either. As a matter of fact it was "squeaking" in the rear "prior" to me changing the accumulators and NOW it's GONE. I'm wondering if my problem could be in one of the following areas: 1.) Control valve needs replacement? 2.) Somehow I got air in my lines? 3.) Should I have used MB accumulators opposed to Corteco? 4.) Should I have used MB hydraulic fluid opposed to Bilstein? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

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[drrobertjfrank]

Originally Posted by starky

I had real "harsh" ride in the rear. checked the hydraulic reservoir & it was dark. I changed my accumulators & STILL have the harsh ride. Not sure what to address next? I bled my hydraulic line via the bleed screw on the lever control valve & put new fluid in it. I put "Cortec" accumulators on it & used the BILSTEIN hydraulic fluid. Anyone have suggestions as to WHERE to go from here? I have no leaks anywhere & struts aren't leaking either. As a matter of fact it was "squeaking" in the rear "prior" to me changing the accumulators and NOW it's GONE. I'm wondering if my problem could be in one of the following areas:

1.) Control valve needs replacement?
2.) Somehow I got air in my lines?
3.) Should I have used MB accumulators opposed to Corteco?
4.) Should I have used MB hydraulic fluid opposed to Bilstein?


Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

I REPLACED MY MB STOCK WITH CORTEC AND WAS INFORMED THAT THERE ARE VARYING GRADES of accumulators... the ones out of MB tolerance get sold cheaper... Fuild should be OK, air would make it even more spongey. I actually had to replace the "bad" brand new accumulators and got a better ride. that might be it...?

[starky]

Thank you for that information. Before I get the MB brand I will try properly "bleeding" it first. I've been told that I should have had some "weight" (ie people) in the back seat or trunk to help get all of the fluid & "air" out of the struts BEFORE putting in the new fluid. I'm not sure IF this is the solution but definitely worth a try. A mechanic explained it to me this way: "Just as you have to pump the brake pedal to properly bleed your brakes(ie applying pressure), the same principle should be applied to the struts". I plan on doing this in the next few days & will let you know IF it makes any difference. Thanks again for your feedback.

[drrobertjfrank]

Originally Posted by starky

Thank you for that information. Before I get the MB brand I will try properly "bleeding" it first. I've been told that I should have had some "weight" (ie people) in the back seat or trunk to help get all of the fluid & "air" out of the struts BEFORE putting in the new fluid. I'm not sure IF this is the solution but definitely worth a try. A mechanic explained it to me this way: "Just as you have to pump the brake pedal to properly bleed your brakes(ie applying pressure), the same principle should be applied to the struts". I plan on doing this in the next few days & will let you know IF it makes any difference. Thanks again for your feedback.

Yes - you need to get all air out, but weight alone may not do it.... I loosen up the connecting rod that controls the ride height (10mm bolt, very simple if the vehicle is properly lifted. They say keep it level, but I've had great success just using rear ramps. BE CAREFUL anytime working under a car with weight!) and after loosening that up, move the valve control rod back and forth. This raises and lowers the car (fun actually!) and in the process will work out any air just like pumping brakes during bleeding.

I also found that for my car, the smoothest, best ride is when my rear shocks (Saches replacements) are about 1.5" higher than normal. So although my car now looks "lifted" a bit, it sure rides better! I experimented for a full afternoon setting it at different heights until I found the "sweet spot."

Lesson: every car is slightly different, and a little fine tuning - especially on the suspension - makes all the difference!

Good luck!

[starky]

I read about that "bleeding" process on one of the MB forum post. I will have to use "ramps" as mine sits too low to get beneath without it being on ramps. I can slide under car but don't have "near" enough room to access the lever control valve without raising the car up.

Originally Posted by drrobertjfrank

Yes - you need to get all air out, but weight alone may not do it.... I loosen up the connecting rod that controls the ride height (10mm bolt, very simple if the vehicle is properly lifted. They say keep it level, but I've had great success just using rear ramps. BE CAREFUL anytime working under a car with weight!) and after loosening that up, move the valve control rod back and forth. This raises and lowers the car (fun actually!) and in the process will work out any air just like pumping brakes during bleeding.

I also found that for my car, the smoothest, best ride is when my rear shocks (Saches replacements) are about 1.5" higher than normal. So although my car now looks "lifted" a bit, it sure rides better! I experimented for a full afternoon setting it at different heights until I found the "sweet spot."

Lesson: every car is slightly different, and a little fine tuning - especially on the suspension - makes all the difference!

Good luck!