lwb250

I have a good idle, but the car has no power taking off from a stop. Regardless of throttle position, the engine will barely speed up under load and the car does move forward, but quite slowly. No missing, noises, etc., just no power.

One you get the car up to about 20-30 mph, it goes forward without a problem and seems to run just fine. You can drive it at freeway speeds without an issue. Slow down to a stop or below that 20-30 mph threshold and it acts like it has no power.

I'm satisfied that everything in the way of the MAF, ETA, plug wires, distributor caps/rotors are OK. The problem seems like there is no change in engine timing regardless of throttle position.

I'm getting a CEL all the time, yet the DAS shows random codes, such as knock sensors or ignition coils. I attribute these to occurrences at low speeds with the throttle at or near wide open. I can clear them without a problem and they'll come back again after I drive the car. Again, the codes are random and not at all repeatable. However, even if I clear them the CEL is on as soon as you restart the car. Strange.

So my question is, what exactly controls engine (spark) timing? I assume it's the EZL. I'm getting vacuum there, so I know that's right. I'm wondering if the camshaft or crankshaft sensor or pickup on the engine that is sending it information about the engine position that it might not be seeing.

I'm not in "limp home" mode that I can tell, as there is no limit on speed or RPM.

I'm about to have the car taken to a local shop for diagnosis, as I've pretty much hit the wall on this. Anything the collective wisdom of the group has to add would be deeply appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

Plutoe

Post your VIN!!

lwb250

I would add that this condition started after the car had been parked outside in a damp area (next to a large open body of water) for about 10 days, during which we had about 10-15 inches of rain, too.

WDBGA43E8RA145626

Since you appear to have some DAS experience, how can I use the DAS/HHTWIN to "see" the EZL operation, or the signals coming into it?

Thank you,

Dan

rcrc7

Dan,
Could that be a bad batch of gas you got somewhere?
Partially plugged fuel filter and/or air filter?
Alternator output good under load?
Good strong and healthy battery?
Good ground wires all around?

...hmmm, are the brake calipers and/or the parking brakes binding? ...push the vehicle in "N"! Feel good about it? How about touch the rear wheel after a short drive? Hot to the touch?

Sorry to mention these obvious stuffs before suspecting other more involved areas. I think you can omit the Crankshaft position sensor 'cos the engine would not fire up if defective. Others may chip in on more advance in-dept areas.

...hope these help ;-))

richard

lwb250

Richard,

Thanks for the suggestions.

We can rule nearly all of them out, as the car will run without a hitch at highway speeds. That would cover induction, fuel and brakes. I'm pretty comfortable with the electrical system being OK. I have access to a DAS/HHT system, and there are no error codes indicating anything wrong elsewhere.

I would agree with the assumption on the CPS. I've never seen one that was marginal, that is, they either work or they don't, and when they don't the car won't start.

Thanks again for the suggestions - it never hurts to ask, even the simple stuff.

Dan

Plutoe

After reading volumes on your engine(119LH),my guess is that the problem lies with the throttle actuator and or electronic accelerator pedel control unit-----all tested via the 38 pin diagnostic(diagnostic module) using HHT(simply connect it correctly and go through the menues)

My problem is that you said you tested all the modules and there were no faults

lwb250

DAS/HHT said the EZL or coil was bad - looking into actual values showed that the left distributor, or the cylinders it drives, weren't firing.

Swapped coils and the problem remained.

Checked wiring between the EZL and coils, OK.

Got a used EZL off of eBay for $100 and installed it this morning.

Car runs like new.

Dan

Delamoya

lwb250