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Old 08-31-2008, 04:35 PM   #26
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instead of unplugging the two big white connectors, i unplugged each air line separately now what do i do......please help? and how much where you supposed to move that nut on the pump????????
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:29 PM   #27
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ok my local shop said its an easy fix, so they are going to charge me an hour of labor of $70 dollars to plug all the lines back in the correct order...........now i just need to know which way set the time shorter on the pump, moving the nut to the right or far to the left?


what contact is it that tells the pump to shut off???
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:48 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by S500 Man View Post
ok my local shop said its an easy fix, so they are going to charge me an hour of labor of $70 dollars to plug all the lines back in the correct order...........now i just need to know which way set the time shorter on the pump, moving the nut to the right or far to the left?

what contact is it that tells the pump to shut off???
Good to hear they can fix it. This is what all I did:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laubscherc View Post
No, It just looks like it needs another screw. Looking at the picture you need to turn it so that the nut circled in white, moves to the left of the picture. Remember that on the W220 the pump continues to run for about 5 seconds after closing pressure (The switch) has been attained.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:56 PM   #29
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what i dont understand is what makes the timer shut off, by turning it to the left.........the more to the left the shorter the time?
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:48 PM   #30
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Good to hear they can fix it. This is what all I did:



Click the image to open in full size.
I wonder if this would correct my trunk closing problem...all the doors work fine but recently my trunk latch feature does not work. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:44 PM   #31
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I wonder if this would correct my trunk closing problem...all the doors work fine but recently my trunk latch feature does not work. Any thoughts?
Worth a try but you might lose your lumbar support... I did atleast I don't know if it's related
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:47 PM   #32
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i just bought a used working pump on ebay for $155 a steal or what? the 02-04 pump will work on my 00 right?


and i got a pic of where all the lines GO!!!

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Old 09-07-2008, 11:13 PM   #33
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theres like 5 different part numbers for the pump and i dont know what the difference is....anyone know?
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:31 PM   #34
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theres like 5 different part numbers for the pump and i dont know what the difference is....anyone know?
use your VIN to get the correct one.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:09 PM   #35
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Worth a try but you might lose your lumbar support... I did atleast I don't know if it's related
Well I did the fuse under the rear seat re-set trick and now the trunk closes properly. I noticed however that it takes about 10~15 seconds for the trunk handle to retract.

I listened closely and could her suction comming from the trunk latch while I was waiting for the handle to retract. Maybe there is a leak at the latch....maybe I'll dig into it one day...any ideas on this one?
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:27 PM   #36
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Well I did the fuse under the rear seat re-set trick and now the trunk closes properly. I noticed however that it takes about 10~15 seconds for the trunk handle to retract.

I listened closely and could her suction comming from the trunk latch while I was waiting for the handle to retract. Maybe there is a leak at the latch....maybe I'll dig into it one day...any ideas on this one?
Sprink49,

I just replaced my trunk Latch for the same reason.. there was a diaphram leak. $169.00

the PSE will detect the leak and your soft close will shut down again. THis is how the system is designed to protect the pump and the other circuits in case one circuit fails.

if you have to keep resetting the fuse, you will need a new PSE sooner than later.
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:25 PM   #37
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yellow number 20 fuse under rear passenger seat

I have a combination of issues. The ir winow/sunroof feature was not working then after pressing the lock unlock button about ten times the close asssit feature on the drivers door failed. reset fuse and now both work fine. (yellow number 20 fuse under rear passenger seat)
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:51 PM   #38
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Wink Do i have door assist?

In the Russian VIn decoder it syas my W220 has this
its a 2000 year model LWB

Option...
883 closed aid for doors and trunk lid (с 01.07.1989)

1. Does this mean i have door assist or is just a fancy sanzy way of saying i have nice doors that lock ?
2. Is there anything that i can look out for in the car to check if i do?
3. Does this mean my trunk lid opens and closes with power assist?
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:41 PM   #39
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what if the trunk is not sucking should i do the same by disconnecting the battery?
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:27 AM   #40
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Hi All

I have done a few repairs on both the W140 and W220 pumps. It is not the door, neither is it breaking the pump so that one door is not working.

Both models utilise a switch located in the pump housing, as well as a time out value. If the door sucks too long, the system will disable that particular door, sensing a leak, and disabling the circuit to protect the pump. If you disconnect the power to the pump (read reset), and all is back to normal then you probably need to remove the pump (NOTE THE pipe locations!!) clean it out and adjust the closing pressure switch.

If however you hear a sucking noise inside the car (I mean really loud) it is probably the lock unit that needs replacing.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:40 PM   #41
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Unhappy Doors don't lock/unlock and door assist doesn't work....Help!!!

hey all: i've been reading this post and seeking a solution to the issue with my car. I've a 03 s500 where just a two nights ago the remote stopped opening my doors or folding my mirrors. I can't even open the door with the lock/unlock from inside. The trunk doesn't open and neither does the gas tank (i had to pry that open with the screw driver to fill gas). so like the post suggested I checked out the Yellow fuse # 20 and i had to replace it cause it was gone....so immediately after i replaced it I locked and then unlocked the car (the mirrors folded, and I was exicted....and then wham...the fuse was gone again.) So now i am trying to figure out what could be the problem, I don't hear the pump going or anything, should I get the pump replaced???

In summary here are the issues:

Doors don't lock/unlock (with key or from inside buttons)
The door assist doesn't work
trunk/gas tank doesn't open.

Any thoughts????
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Old 01-28-2009, 01:24 PM   #42
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okay here is an update, I went and purchased the PSE vacuum pump and replaced it. The door locks/doors/and mirrors work fine....now the trunk is not working. When i try to open it I can hear it trying to open but it doesn't open I have to manually open the trunk. Not being lazy but its a nice feature to have. Any thoughts...?
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:07 PM   #43
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Yes. As was suggested earlier in this string, you may have a bad actuator on your trunk lid lock.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:43 AM   #44
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Thumbs up

Hello to everybody. Thanks for time trying to solve and help others problems. I`m busting my head with `01 s55 AMG for some time now but have a strategy for tomorrow. I spent enough time with DAS with no help and all their useless in this case tests even swapped boards (unfortunately bad one) orderd used pump and still no luck. Let`s see what happens...
Many thanks to Laubscherc for the link.
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:38 AM   #45
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Greetings - Struggling with same problem on my car 2003 W220 . Does anyone know how far the white piston moves backwards and forwards when activated. I have had mine visible and I couldn't see it moving much at all. Does it blow outwards to connect the bimetal contact ,and is it connection of the contacts that stops the pump?. Thans from New Zealand..
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:48 PM   #46
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As soon as th contact closes, the timer starts. The pump should switch off after about 4 seconds. Can you post a picture?
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:31 PM   #47
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Well, I have been working on this for about the last 3 hours. I finally gave up and decided to destress with some football while I ask for some help. I got my PSE out and it is similar to the one pictured in benz addict's post below. However, I am having a bit of a problem getting the shut-off switch set properly. I am having the same problem as Button1. I cannot see the screw moving at all no matter what I do. The pump will work for ~12 seconds and then reset itself. The switch does not move at all when the pump is on. I can push on the screw and it will move in against some pressure (don't know if that is spring pressure or air pressure). It does not move out though. Any suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by benz_addict View Post
okay heres my pump's adjustment screw. looks like theres another hole for a screw beside the one circled in red and also a switch...the screw is missing: Do I adjust the screw that's there inwards or outwards?
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by S600Keith; 11-27-2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:41 PM   #48
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Good to hear they can fix it. This is what all I did:



Click the image to open in full size.
Seriously, this is starting to get my goat. I am having a real hard time getting this set and I don't get the engineering about how the above works. My PSE looks the same as the pic posted by benz_addict. If you look closely at the above picture you can see the two contacts to the right of the flange and below the threads in the picture. I have to assume that this picture is of the flange at rest (that is, the PSE is out of the car and obviously is not running/pressurized). The contacts as pictured at rest are NOT touching, ergo the switch is "open." Right? So in order for any timer to start to shut down the pump, the switch would have to be closed by the piston moving the contacts TOGETHER. This would mean that the piston itself would have to move to the right while the pump is operating in order to close the switch's circuit and activate any timer. Now, unscrewing the piston to the LEFT, as suggested by Laubscherc and benz_addict, would move the flange farther away from the base of the piston, separating the contacts even farther and making it take a LONGER time for the piston to reach the contacts and push one contact into the other. This, by my logic, would make it take LONGER for the switch to activate and shut down the pump early before it times out on its own.

As frustrated as I am by not understanding the engineering here, I am even more frustrated by not being able to diagnose this issue on my own. My problem is THE PUMP DOES NOT MOVE THE PISTON AT ALL!! IF I could see the piston move I could figure out how to adjust it to shut down the pump early. I even tried reinstalling the pump minus the lower half of the housing and having someone shut the door. While the pump was running I tried pressing the contacts together with a screwdriver and NOTHING!! It still runs for 15 seconds and then times out on its own. It seems as though the piston would have to move to the right while the pump is running. And since I can only push the piston to the right by hand this makes sense as this would move the flange on the piston into the contacts on the switch.

Could SOMEONE at least confirm that the piston should move to the right while the pump is pressurizing the system? I may just have a defective pressure shut-off switch. I don't know. But until I get a handle on how this works I am completely flumoxed. Laubscherc? S500 Man? Benz_addict? Anyone?
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:32 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NV03S5004Matic View Post
okay here is an update, I went and purchased the PSE vacuum pump and replaced it. The door locks/doors/and mirrors work fine....now the trunk is not working. When i try to open it I can hear it trying to open but it doesn't open I have to manually open the trunk. Not being lazy but its a nice feature to have. Any thoughts...?
Although this response is quite late for this post, it is important to note that all new PSE Pump Assemblies have had a rev change which requires the PSE System to be reinitialized through STAR whenever the PSE Pump is replaced. The infamous hold-the-remote-trunk-switch-in-the-door-for-5-seconds trick will not work with the newer rev'd PSE Pump Assemblies. Just went through this headache with my S55.
Cheers,
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:19 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by S600Keith View Post
Seriously, this is starting to get my goat. I am having a real hard time getting this set and I don't get the engineering about how the above works. My PSE looks the same as the pic posted by benz_addict. If you look closely at the above picture you can see the two contacts to the right of the flange and below the threads in the picture. I have to assume that this picture is of the flange at rest (that is, the PSE is out of the car and obviously is not running/pressurized). The contacts as pictured at rest are NOT touching, ergo the switch is "open." Right? So in order for any timer to start to shut down the pump, the switch would have to be closed by the piston moving the contacts TOGETHER. This would mean that the piston itself would have to move to the right while the pump is operating in order to close the switch's circuit and activate any timer. Now, unscrewing the piston to the LEFT, as suggested by Laubscherc and benz_addict, would move the flange farther away from the base of the piston, separating the contacts even farther and making it take a LONGER time for the piston to reach the contacts and push one contact into the other. This, by my logic, would make it take LONGER for the switch to activate and shut down the pump early before it times out on its own.

As frustrated as I am by not understanding the engineering here, I am even more frustrated by not being able to diagnose this issue on my own. My problem is THE PUMP DOES NOT MOVE THE PISTON AT ALL!! IF I could see the piston move I could figure out how to adjust it to shut down the pump early. I even tried reinstalling the pump minus the lower half of the housing and having someone shut the door. While the pump was running I tried pressing the contacts together with a screwdriver and NOTHING!! It still runs for 15 seconds and then times out on its own. It seems as though the piston would have to move to the right while the pump is running. And since I can only push the piston to the right by hand this makes sense as this would move the flange on the piston into the contacts on the switch.

Could SOMEONE at least confirm that the piston should move to the right while the pump is pressurizing the system? I may just have a defective pressure shut-off switch. I don't know. But until I get a handle on how this works I am completely flumoxed. Laubscherc? S500 Man? Benz_addict? Anyone?
Not trying to be cynical, but what problem are you trying to solve? Soft-close not working? Certain locks not engaging? Trunk? You may be trying to troubleshoot something here that is not in relation to the problem you are trying to solve. Again, not trying to be cynical; perhaps I missed it in your posts.

It is my understanding that the adjustment screw is connected to a vacuum piston. Once the vacuum line(s) being activated drops in pressure sufficient to pull the adjustment screw in (indicating the line is at some level of vacuum pressure), the contacts are made which begins an electronic timer to shut off the pump. The adjustment screw - as I understand it - is used to set the vacuum pressure the line needs to achieve before starting the shutdown timer. This is needed to compensate for differences in the mechanical movement of the various vacuum parts, aging of the vacuum tubing/components that may develop tiny micro-cracks, the mechancial condition of the dashpot, base vacuum pressure of the pump itself, etc. The electrical timer is used to ensure the associated line is under desired vacuum for X-amount of time. Adjustment of the screw simply sets the desired setpoint of the vacuum line pressure. Adjust it too far in, and line may not achieve sufficient line vacuum because the contacts will be made too soon. Too far out and the vacuum pump may run for an extended period of time. There is a maximum length of time the PSE Pump will run if no other timers are made. This protects the PSE Pump in the event of catastrophic vacuum system failure. Adjustment of the white wheel shown in the picture is not normally a field adjustment, and if adjustment is needed, that action suggests a larger problem in the PSE vacuum system as a whole. The white wheel is factory set in relation to the strength of the individual vacuum pump, in each PSE Assembly. [Constructive feedback on this explanation is welcomed and encouraged.]

Therefore, if your adjustment screw piston is not moving when the PSE Pump is activated, then something is preventing the piston from moving. That could be either a leak in the system, a bad adjustment dashpot, or some other malfunction in the PSE Pump electromechanical valving.

A leak in the system can be somewhat isolated by systematically removing each of the yellow vacuum lines and plugging the line. Activate the PSE system and observe results. Repeat for each line. Do each line singularly to prevent mixing up the lines. Time consuming, yes, and patience is required. But you'll get to the vacuum leak, assuming that's the problem. However, if all the locks and such are operating correctly, fairly smoothly and uniformly, and in a reasonable period of time, then you probably do not have a vacuum leak. Then I would simply suspect the PSE Pump Assembly.

Cheers,
Jeff
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:19 AM
 
 
 
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