S600Keith

Very nice explanation Jeff. I read previously in the thread that the system is pressurized and the link supplied by Laubscherc described a piston that extends under pressure, not retracts under vacuum. Having the piston retract does make sense as this would press the contacts together, closing the switch and starting the timer. I still don't see how S500 Man got his PSE to shut down earlier if he moved the piston to the left. This seems as if it would lengthen the travel and delay the setting of the switch.

My problem, as stated in my first post, is that the soft close is not functioning. I can reset the PSE by removing the fuse and it will work a few times and then stop again. I am not hearing any hissing or sucking sounds anywhere on the vehicle so I am doubting a leak (although I cannot rule this out as yet). I think your evaluation of the situation has merit and I may be looking at a defective piston. I will try to tackle this again this weekend. I appreciate your perspective, Jeff.

Thanks!!

Twins05

I have the same problem my driver site door soft close is not working . Two weeks ago , when I opened my driver site window , I heard a crack noise and since then the soft close is not working. Now my question is , How do I know that is not that Pump ( PSE ) but something THAT MIGHT be broken inside my door ? I am hearing a sucking sound when I close the door . But is not going to suck the door and close it , as it is supposed to be . Please help

Thanks

da boss

pse pump samething happen to me 1 month ago 700 to replace...

MB-Dude

In all likelihood, either a vacuum line or the vacuum actuator is broken in your door. To test the PSE Vacuum Pump, try this test... With the doors unlocked, fully open the trunk. Wait ~15 seconds, then close the trunk lid. Assuming your trunk soft close was properly functioning before the 'crack' sound in the door, the trunk should soft-close properly. Trunk soft-close is independant of door soft-close but uses the same PSE Pump. If the trunk soft-closes, your PSE Pump is OK.
Cheers,
Jeff

Twins05

Thank you for your advice MB-Dude , I checked today and the Trunk soft close is working very good. Thank you again Sir , as you told me and as I thought , there might be something inside the door.

Do somebody know How much is going to cost the Door Actuator ?

Thank you in advance

Tropical

Another person posted a solution to this problem which is easy and so far has worked each time for me.
My 2006 S-350 driver door would not soft close, yet other three doors were OK.
Went to the garage, tech got into back seat passenger side and quickly resolved problem. (This was sometime after driver door lock mechanism changed.)
Had tech show me what to do.
There is a fuse panel under the passenger side rear seat. The PSE fuse is a yellow 20 amp. Pull it out and re insert. Driver door should then soft close. Will also fix soft close of trunk, if trunk will not close the last 1/2 inch.

I need to pull and reset my PSE fuse periodically, if door soft close or trunk soft close stops working. But cheaper the any fix I know.

wallyp

Driver's door soft-close quit working on my 2003 S430. Resetting by pulling the 20 Amp fuse would fix it for a few days, then it would quit again.

The problem was a leaking diaphragm in the soft-close/lock actuator. Changing the actuator and resetting the computer by pulling the fuse fixed it for good.

An important note - there was no sound of a leak that you could hear.

If the lock actuation fails because the lock diaphragm housing breaks, (fairly common) you can fix it by replacing just the plastic housing. The soft-close diaphragm housing is totally buried in the actuator, and can not be easily replaced...

Skylaw

wallyp is correct; and if you must repeatedly pull and reinstall that fuse, it is because the PSE pump is going into self-protection mode because it is running too long; and it it running too long because there is a leak. Eventually you will burn the pump out unless you find and fix the leak.

Welwynnick

These are all symptoms of a pump on the way out. The give-away is when a working door is pulled in, then relaxes back out after a long time, like ten seconds I think. If it relaxes quickly, that's a sign of a good pump, because it reaches the pressure differential threshold quickly. They're expensive to buy (of course!) but anyone can probably fix them - with time and care. The pump gets clogged with its own dust, and just needs cleaning out. I did that on my 1999 S500, and I've got some pictures I can post.

Nick

kkbenzo

I too was repeatedly pull and reinstall the fuse because my soft close for the trunk wouldn't work. Eventually, my pump gave out and now I'm stuck with none of my pneumatic functions working.

With an expensive pump, I wish I would have just lived without having the soft closing trunk. Now I'm waiting to order a pump or try to find a used one online

NewportB

This is just the thread I need! about 6 months back I was able to replace my girls 2000 cavalier with a 2005 S430 with high mileage but pretty clean shape for a nice reasonable price. The first week she drove it the dashboard display went dead and I almost had a heart attack when I read it was $1500, but deeper in a thread I discovered the possibility of a warranty and lo and behold the VIN was covered and I got white glove replacement at Fletcher Jones for zero cents. Other than that the car started squeaking like an old ****box over every speedbump so once again, an independent told me it was $2000 per air strut to replace the front two and that's what the problem was. Lucky for me this forum exists and I can research, a $16 mini grease gun and a $4 hyperdermic style grease tip and some elbow grease pumping the **** out of every ball joint boot in the front end and she rides like a dream once again!
Now the current problem is this - just this weekend we stopped for a snack on memorial day. As I exited the car from the drivers side I heard a very loud pop as I shut the door just like a loud champagne cork on the first expulsion. My girlfriend was distressed, I couldn't say for sure what it was but nothing seemed off. Then tonight going to pick up dinner, I heard some cracking when the window rolled down and then back up, as well as the backlit door handle in that drivers door was out. Lastly, as I closed the door in the garage and went for the soft close to show off to myself, it just sounded like someone snorting Afrin and the door didn't move. After I found this thread, I did the trunk soft close test which completed successfully.
Has anyone ever experienced an actual explosion in the door? It seems to have broken and disrupted at least 2 other mechanisms besides the soft close itself! Thanks in advance for any answers and thanks for a great forum!

wallyp

Apparently, it is not uncommon for the plastic soft-close pneumatic actuator to break. A few people have managed to patch it with zip-ties and/or epoxy. Do some searching on here, as well as on You-Tube on "Mercedes door actuator" or similar phrases...

NewportB

awesome Wally thanks!

mtneyman

both my front doors will pump, and lock the door mechanisms,
but they continue to pump after the door locks.

the passenger side seems to suck in then let back out once the pump turns off. again, the locks engage, and the doors keep pumping till they get turned off by the pump.

what actually locks the door in place? do i just need to adjust that actuator?

wallyp

Reading the prior messages in this thread will answer your questions...

tusabes

Can you link to the style of grease gun and tip to buy ? I need to do this to my squeaky joints on my s430

wallyp

Link -"any auto parts store", or "Walmart"

In my opinion, the most useful type of grease gun has a pistol-grip handle (one-handed operation) with a flexible hose. The needle will be in a hanging card near the grease guns and grease cartridge.

mtneyman

ive read the post two dozen times. i swear to god if i hear one more *** wipe say "read the thread" or "use the search" instead of referencing a specific reply im going to puke.

every time i search for an answer to a question, i spend more time sifting through smart asses replies like " read it yourself" than i do finding the answer. half the replies in this forum essentially say "do a search", how the hell do you think i got here in the first place?

i just read through it two times, and i still dont understand why my pump keeps pumping even though the door is closed and locked. Maybe my reading comprehension is crapped out, or maybe its not as clear as you think it is.


its obvious im missing something or misunderstanding something, so either point the correct answer out or keep your smart *** remarks to yourself.

at least skylaw points out the facts when telling someone to do a search. which was extremely helpful. you can be a smart *** all day long as long you back it up with some facts or something helpful.


i am assuming that the picture in post 19 is what i need to adjust. but i do not understand where it is located at. and if i understand the reply, i need to thread the top screw out in order to make the pump shut off quicker.

1.so where exactly in the driver door is it located?
2. do i have to remove the door panel?
3. do i simply unscrew the top screw out all the way, or do i have to do it bit by bit and resassemble and test it?

mtneyman

is this link broken? http://v12uberalles.com/Closing_Assist_Pump.htm

i do not understand where this switch is located in the drivers door.

mrbobby

If you can correct the problem by resetting the 20A fuses in the rear passenger foot well the problem is probably a leak in the hose system. If resetting the fuse does not cure the problem the issue may indeed be the door soft close activator located in the door.

To get at the activator you need to remove the door panel. There is a You tube video illustrating how to do this.

I had the leak problem. My Indie found the leak at the trunk soft close. It is important to find the link before burning out the pump. The pumps are not cheap

I hope this ghelps you somewhat.

pppham

Mine was started with key fob -- only worked when I put the key near the rear window for the doors to open/close. Few weeks later, the doors close assist were not working for all doors. Then, the trunk will pop if button activated but will not soft close. Now, the central door lock/unlock button will not lock/unlock doors. I checked the 20A fuse under the rear seat, it was broke. I replaced with the new one and nothing is working. I can hear the the pump (driver side back window) running continuously for more than 30s. Worry somewhat then I took the fuse off.

Is this the pump or the pump combined with something else?

PS not sure if my car listed under my sig.... 2002 S500

Thanks in advance

pppham

Mtneyman, what exactly is your problem and have you fixed it? I might start to tear up the trunk to get to the POS pump this weekend if the weather is not too cold. Any advices? Thanks,

MikeRider9

WOW..! Think I might be able to contribute.

Really understand folks who want just the data to get the job done and most who are technical want to try and explain.. but you are mostly dealing with folks who want to do it but just are not that technical.. funny.

Ok guys.. here goes. Stop pulling the fuse, it is not a fix. The pump is trying to save itself from burning out from a vacuum leak.

Adjusting sensors..? I mean come on you car was working for years and now it needs an adjustment and all will be better... come on your better than that aren't you..?

Well if you did burn it out a replacement W220 pump part search is (2208001148 or 220 800 11 48)

How to find a vacuum leak.

1) The MB soft door system works from vacuum, no vacuum, the pump try's its best then shuts off. Now how can we find the vacuum leak.. easy..! Buy a $40 hand-held mighty vac and build some vacuum on the pulled line and see what is holding and what is losing vacuum.

2) Now find your pump, on the W220 it is in the back drivers side closer to the gas tank than the rear. (By the way the rear seat comes out easy as well as the rear backing) Anyway the pump will have nipples, those nipples go things like your doors and gas cap cover and trunk..etc. Simply remove the one going to the bad place you think you have a problem and see if it holds vacuum. Hear is what you are looking for (see the PDF ) for details.

KAF - Rear Head Restraints - White Line with Grey Connector.
HECK - Boot Lid - Yellow Line with Grey Connector.
TD - Fuel Flap - Yellow Line with Grey Connector.
MKL - N/S and O/S Seats - Grey Line with Grey Connector.
FT - O/S Front Passenger Door - Yellow line with grey connector.
BFT - N/S Front Driver Door - Yellow line with grey connector.
FoL - N/S Rear Driver Door - 4 door versions only.
FoR - O/S Rear Passenger Door - 4 door versions only.
SK - N/S and O/S Boot Security Locks - optionally fitted security equipment

So if your having trouble the front driver door pull the BFT and see if you can build vacuum.. in my case I could a little and found the door actuator cup leaking and bought a replacement. Drivers Door D096RKLF


W220 Pneumatic System Equipment PSE Pump Version 2 (1).pdf

Welwynnick

Hi MikeRider,

Was it you that wrote that document? If so - your MB Star procedures are my bible!

I overhauled the PSE pump on my last W220 rather than replace it - have some pictures somewhere.

Remove - dismantle - clean - reassemble - works again.

Its not exactly easy; you've just got to be very careful; but there really is no need to throw money at a dealer to keep a Mercedes on the road.

Nick :-)

ibeforreal

Old thread, same problem. A couple of weeks ago I heard this cracking noise inside of my driver's door following by a hissing sound. After reading so much on the forum I knew it had to be that door actuator or something related.

Finally I had a chance to do some diagnostic work. Took the door paneling (broke about 3 clips putting it back on), peeled back the insulation cover and then it was one of those "oh S#$%t" moments. Those clips only cost about $.70 from autohuas. My local MB dealer wanted are you ready for this $5.50 for each one. I even asked her to check the part number again and she came back with the same results. Simply said thanks but no thanks.

Seeing where that actuator is located causes immediate anxiety. Needless to say I decided to tackle it anyway. After drilling out the rivets for the window guard, and the rail next to it I was able to move them just enough to get to the actuator. This is not a task for the weak. Also, if you have arms like Popeye you might not be able to do this job.

Finally got the actuator out and that little white cap had broken in several places. Ordered a new cap and after some very tedious and painstaking work was able to recap the actuator. Lots of little screens and o-rings inside that thing. That little white plastic clip on the back of the actuator has to be opened when you put it in. Took me a while to figure that out. Putting the door latch that just dangles inside of that clip is no joke. You can't see anything and everything is by feel. Dropped it a couple of times and of course it fell into one of those crevices inside the door frame. Spent about 1/2 hour getting it out with a clothes hanger.

You must also make sure that the door lock sensor cable is accessible once you re-install the actuator or you'll have to take it out and start over. .

Well I finally got it all back in and lo and behold my soft close for everything else works great less that 3 seconds for the other doors. However, that dagnabit driver's door still isn't locking and unlocking properly. Either I have a broken lock mechanism or something else has gone haywire. I'll disassemble it again next week and see if I can figure the problem out.

As I mentioned earlier along with several others, this is not a tender person's job. Your vocabulary will certainly change in the process. I was trying to take some pictures so that others won't fall into the same pitfalls I did. However, I was so pissed off at times I forgot to use the camera. On the second try I'll be sure to take some pictures and try to explain what is going on. Stay tuned.