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S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

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Old 12-11-2009, 09:35 PM   #1
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key turns but no power to start engine.

Friend has a 2000 s500 that wont' start, has power for lights, horn etc, odometer etc..even lights when opening door, but when he inserts the key and turns it to start the car nothing happens, key will turn but there is no pre-ignition lights or power to start engine???????
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:28 AM   #2
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Bad key code or bad ignition switch.
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:08 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by hanniep View Post
Friend has a 2000 s500 that wont' start, has power for lights, horn etc, odometer etc..even lights when opening door, but when he inserts the key and turns it to start the car nothing happens, key will turn but there is no pre-ignition lights or power to start engine???????
EIS problem
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:59 AM   #4
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I had a similar problem with my 2001 S600..I was told that it could be the shift **** or stick. apparently it has a switch inside that determines if vehicle is in gear or parked....so I make sure before I turn off vehicle that the shift **** is fully in park...try it!
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:38 PM   #5
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HEY IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2000 S500. ITS AT THE SHOP GETTING PAINTED KANDY, AND ALL OF A SUDDEN NO CRANK NO NOTHING, EVERYTHING POWERS UP, BUT NO START, CHECKED ALL RELAYS ALL GOOD, STARTER IS GOOD TOO. WAT CAN BE THE PROBLEM ALL OF A SUDDEN IT WONT CRANK?
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:59 PM   #6
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try replacing the crank position sensor first
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:34 PM   #7
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try replacing the crank position sensor first
The symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor is when the car cranks but the engine will not fire up. This crank and no start happens when you disconnect the crank sensor, and the same connector is pulled to perform a compression test. It sounds like he can't even crank it.
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Last edited by jnash; 06-25-2012 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanniep View Post
Friend has a 2000 s500 that wont' start, has power for lights, horn etc, odometer etc..even lights when opening door, but when he inserts the key and turns it to start the car nothing happens, key will turn but there is no pre-ignition lights or power to start engine???????
Have you tried a different key? a spare key? If both keys act the same I might agree with the others that have already suggested its the EIS switch.
This switch is a theft relevant part that is married to your car. Your only option for a failed EIS is to have the dealer order you a new one and they will insist based on MBUSA policy that they also have to fit it for you. There is no other option for a EIS failure.
Although, I am not 100% sure that's what the problem is until you have had it verified. You really need to get it on STAR diagnostics and find out what if it can see the EIS or if it reports any errors with the EIS module (ignition switch). If it passes a quick test its OK.
With the ignition on, can you get the transmission out of park and into other gears? Have you checked the brake switch? It's a common failure, a cheap part and easy to change.

[EDIT] come to think of it...IF your key turns past ignition on, and into the spring-loaded Start position, the EIS has authorized the key. Otherwise it will not turn to the Start position. That doesn't rule out the EIS just yet, but that is a good sign that it's not a authorization issue within the EIS

When you solve this, please let us all know what it was - thanks
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Last edited by jnash; 06-25-2012 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:25 PM   #9
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RE: "With the ignition on, can you get the transmission out of park and into other gears? Have you checked the brake switch?"

Are these questions pointing to a brake switch if you are able to change gears with the ignition on or are they unrelated.

I am having this issue. (no action when trying to turn over despite all electronics showing when key inserted in ignition). I am able to change gears.

Thank you for any assistance.
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:23 AM   #10
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a LOW BATTERY can cause all these problems. there is enough juice to show all the dash lights but not enough to crank the car
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:04 PM   #11
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You are right of course. The reason I've not suspected that at all, and which was not previously mentioned, is that the vehicle electrical, just prior to not starting, went haywire in mid drive.

- Moving down the road already at full speed and all possible errors began flashing on the dash and vehicle began to struggle. I pulled over and turned the vehicle off. Since then no luck starting.

I will test the battery to rule it out for certain and post the results. In the meantime, if the additional information triggers any thoughts in anyone, please do share your inclinations or experiences.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:22 PM   #12
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It was a good thought to check the simple things before moving on. Thank you for your response.

Tested battery. All is well.

12.3V and 10.4 when cranking.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:43 PM   #13
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A fresh one is 13.2

Now that you mention you had electrical haywire during driving points more to weak battery.
Batteries that "test good" can still be too weak for a w220, it has a very very finicky electrical system and needs much more power than most cars.

Testing a battery means nothing on an s class. The only test is a fresh battery install.

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Old 07-15-2012, 02:46 AM   #14
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Well I believe you are thinking of a new or fully charged battery being tested while the vehicle is running and there is juice going to it. In which case you'd be right.

Regardless. Gave a new battery a shot, but as suspected, no difference.
The 12V battery by itself, even new, didn't provide 13+V.

Any ideas from the community on causes outside of the battery?
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:08 PM   #15
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any update? and just because the battery has a good reading on a multi meter doesn't mean it's necessarily strong enough to start a w220/w215?
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:23 PM   #16
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Always see people report different battery reading, so I went out and checked:
- No key, no light: 12.5v
- Cranking during engine start: above 10v
- After engine start, charging, idle: 13.9v
- Charging, rev up: locked at 14v

Above reading are from MFD and multimeter.
I never get reading around 13v without charging.
Many occasions my battery got lower than 12v and restarted normal. Never has symptom of electronic issue.

My battery is few years old and at least died twice during lengthened repair process.
Jump, battery to battery, never has any issue after. I mean two points:
- Died battery, of cause not preferred, can be restored then used for quite a long time without electronic issue;
- Jump start w220, battery back to back, no problem, won't damage electronics;

fyi, I believe my battery is in good condition.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:35 PM   #17
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Did you check relay "L" in the right side fuse box?

It is the second relay from the back, and controls the starter.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:35 PM
 
 
 
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1999, 2000, audi, car, crank, engine, key, light, power, s4, s500, shifter, start, starter, turn, turns, wont



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