ABC pulsation damper and Filter DIY repair
07-12-2015, 04:31 PM
#51
Super Member
Just did it, the noise is gone, I did bleed the pressure out cauing the front left strut to sink.
ABC fluid looks like black ****, it's gonna be changed, likely in conjunction with several valve block cleanings.
ABC fluid looks like black ****, it's gonna be changed, likely in conjunction with several valve block cleanings.
11-22-2015, 11:47 AM
#52
2001 S600 58k miles
Not sure if I have a dampener, valve body, strut problem or other problem? ABC light is on all the time and it sounds like the power steering pump is humming to loud. The car is driveable although it pulls right and rear drive tire spins on take off. The suspension sinks down overnight but lifts up when I put it in reverse. I lifted all 4 tires off the ground and with a long pry bar tried to compress each strut. All where firm and wouldnt move up in the fender well except for the driver side rear, it would compress up a couple inches. Any suggestions or should I pull the ABC fuses and put in coil over shocks conversions ?
11-24-2015, 05:55 AM
#53
Coil over conversion is good if you don't want to replace the abc parts but it's really best to keep abc functional
Sounds like you need a pump and rear strut and possibly other parts like a Valve block . Just those parts can cost more than the coil over conversion.
Sounds like you need a pump and rear strut and possibly other parts like a Valve block . Just those parts can cost more than the coil over conversion.
11-24-2015, 08:52 AM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
To repair the system, the best approach is to find someone with a DAS / STAR system, and who knows how to really use it. Get and write down every code the system gives. Repair the indicated problems.
It is possible to repair much of the system, but you must understand the system first.
Randomly throwing parts at an ABC system hoping to fix a problem is a very expensive losing game...
I suggest starting by investing some time and effort here.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ml#post4298889
It is possible to repair much of the system, but you must understand the system first.
Randomly throwing parts at an ABC system hoping to fix a problem is a very expensive losing game...
I suggest starting by investing some time and effort here.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ml#post4298889
01-27-2017, 04:53 PM
#56
Senior Member
Thanks everyone for the help, here's my story:
The rough ride was caused by the damper.
After the change, the car handles like brand new. So firm and responsive. The rough ride is completely gone.
It was very difficult to do it on jack stands so I found myself a lift and had it off in 2 minutes.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED/RELIEVE PRESSURE IN THE LINES GOING TO THE STRUTS!
Let the car sit for about 10 minutes to make sure all pressure is out, lift it and undo the old pulsation damper with a 24mm wrench while holding the valve body with an adjustable wrench.
When you install the new damper, YOU MUST LEAVE the plastic shimmy tube inside, do not discard!
When done, verify fluid level in ABC tank and start the car. Perform the rodeo or about 5 minutes worth of up/down exerciser. Verify there are few to no bubbles on the ABC dipstick and you're good to go!
Here's the culprit:
and the new damper:
The rough ride was caused by the damper.
After the change, the car handles like brand new. So firm and responsive. The rough ride is completely gone.
It was very difficult to do it on jack stands so I found myself a lift and had it off in 2 minutes.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED/RELIEVE PRESSURE IN THE LINES GOING TO THE STRUTS!
Let the car sit for about 10 minutes to make sure all pressure is out, lift it and undo the old pulsation damper with a 24mm wrench while holding the valve body with an adjustable wrench.
When you install the new damper, YOU MUST LEAVE the plastic shimmy tube inside, do not discard!
When done, verify fluid level in ABC tank and start the car. Perform the rodeo or about 5 minutes worth of up/down exerciser. Verify there are few to no bubbles on the ABC dipstick and you're good to go!
Here's the culprit:
and the new damper:
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
01-28-2017, 09:24 AM
#57
Member
I will have to do this job on my S65 as I have that loud howling noise in the cabin. What exactly do you mean by " plastic shimmy tube inside"? Is that the white plastic cylinder coming out of the damper body as shown in your photo?
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
But I did jack up only front 2 wheels only. It worked out well.
Sun
01-28-2017, 03:02 PM
#58
Senior Member
Good to know Sun. Seems like a relatively easy job.
Before I order the part, can anyone confirm the part #? What I have is A 220 327 02 15. This will be for a 2006 S65.
Before I order the part, can anyone confirm the part #? What I have is A 220 327 02 15. This will be for a 2006 S65.
02-02-2017, 08:28 AM
#59
Super Member
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
The part number is right for the S55, you may want to confirm for an S65 before ordering.
02-02-2017, 08:56 AM
#60
Senior Member
02-02-2017, 10:51 AM
#61
Thanks. I cross-checked against this resource, and it appears to be the right one for the S65.
all s class and cl class abc components are the same for all models , s55 s600 s65 cl500 cl55 cl600 cl65
02-03-2017, 06:30 PM
#62
Senior Member
02-07-2017, 04:23 AM
#63
Bleeding points
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
02-13-2017, 01:03 PM
#65
Senior Member
Just wanted to confirm that the pulsation damper is located by the front passenger wheel well and NOT the driver side?
I have the car on jackstands and what appears to be the pulsation damper is located near the passenger wheel well.
I was under the impression that it was driver side... at least that's where the loudest humming noise comes from.
I have the car on jackstands and what appears to be the pulsation damper is located near the passenger wheel well.
I was under the impression that it was driver side... at least that's where the loudest humming noise comes from.
02-13-2017, 03:38 PM
#67
Senior Member
That might be one of the accumulators you're thinking off. I confirmed that the pulsation damper is located close to the front passenger wheel well.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.
02-13-2017, 05:11 PM
#68
[QUOTE=amstel78;7055262]That might be one of the accumulators you're thinking off. I confirmed that the pulsation damper is located close to the front passenger wheel well.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.[/QUOTE
I used a big pipe wrench to hold the house and a 24 key on the damper, just a very little oil came out when I removed changed it.
Be careful with the little plastic part on the damper when you refitting it.
And I think it's a good thing to change the oil at the same time.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.[/QUOTE
I used a big pipe wrench to hold the house and a 24 key on the damper, just a very little oil came out when I removed changed it.
Be careful with the little plastic part on the damper when you refitting it.
And I think it's a good thing to change the oil at the same time.
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amstel78 (02-15-2017)
02-15-2017, 10:01 AM
#71
Senior Member
Thanks. I'm going to give it another try this weekend. Going to buy a larger 24mm wrench to see if that'll also help in terms of leverage.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
Last edited by amstel78; 02-15-2017 at 10:04 AM.
02-15-2017, 03:11 PM
#72
Thanks. I'm going to give it another try this weekend. Going to buy a larger 24mm wrench to see if that'll also help in terms of leverage.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
And be careful when you install it.
You will see that the white plastic part is there on your old damper.
02-16-2017, 02:10 PM
#74
Thanks. I'm going to give it another try this weekend. Going to buy a larger 24mm wrench to see if that'll also help in terms of leverage.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
I just raised the car to maximum height and mesurised the distance between the small rubber pads and the ground and then I made wooden pieces to put under the car in all corners and lowered it so it was standing on the wooden pieces.
I hade the car on a lift so I could stand under it when I did the job.
You can not remove or change oil without have the car standing on something so it is not depending on the hydraulic shock absorbers.
02-18-2017, 05:33 PM
#75
Senior Member
Happy to report that I got the pulsation damper off today. Only lifted the front two wheels and waited about 30 minutes for the pressure in the system to drop. I ended up buying a small pipe wrench and a proper 24mm box wrench which made it a very easy job. When the old damper came off, only a very small amount of oil leaked out; I'd say less than a teaspoon.
What a difference that made however; the car is quiet inside now with no loud humming.
What a difference that made however; the car is quiet inside now with no loud humming.
