haoz129

Thanks Bruce.

Sure, I still need to be cautious when working on it. These cars are more complex than others.

BTW, We had a 300 miles trip today the colt was complaint and calm as usual. Yes I still need to hold the reins tight everytime I floor the gas, .

Best regards.

Howard

jnash

Howard, I admire your flushing system. There is a slightly different approach. that doesn't need such a complex flushing arrangement in case anyone is interested. In rodeo mode, have the return line poor into a large bucket and stand there and add the cans of ABC fluid into the reservoir at the same time. There is enough time before reservoir depletion occurs. You need a buddy for this. MB procedure says to replace the filter again after 30 mins of additional rodeo once the fluid has been replaced.

haoz129

Thanks Jnash.

Seems I made it a bit complex.
My initial design is making it worry free and no need for a buddy.

Anyway, the MB procedure works and is simple. And I did find out the fluid rate is slow enough that manually add oil is doable.

Best regards.

Howard

hAnDyGUY

Hi Howard

I want to tell you that you made me fall in love again with my 04 S600. I had quite a few (but costly) repairs done in over 2 years of owning it. Must admit that I did have the same enthusiasm you had before buying your ride.. You made me remember why i chose to own an S600 rather than S500 or even S55!

I read both of your threads and noticed your passion and loyalty to this specific car from the early beginning when you first were still thinking of buying it. In other words, I'd say that you're a great model for others who have passion to something but still can't hold to it no matter the circumstances.

I came through your thread while I was searching for solutions to vibration I noticed in my car in last few months. I would expect it's from the tranny mounts, but as I didn't get it checked yet I'm willing to change Engine & tranny mounts anyways as they've not been checked/changed for the last 2.5 years of owning the car.

I did encounter most of issues other S600 owners had (ABC pump, ABC Valve, Coil packs & plugs, etc) but that was only recently -during the last 4 months. Although I did search the forum (and few others) for these issues, I do wish I've seen your posts earlier. You would've saved me few $ks.

Anyway, I'm currently living in Dubai but I'm heading to Canada later this year as a landed immigrant, and I've decided to ship my S600 (luckily for my case it will be tax free to get the car shipped & registered in Toronto!)
So, I hope I could meet you and hopefully start a new S600 club – Ontario Canada branch, one day!

Best of luck & congrats on your new ride (again)!

haoz129

Thanks HandyGuy for all your kind words.


Yes, S600 is so special. I enjoy her more and more. Every long trip I'll be with her.
Time stops when I am in the S600 highway cruising. I am wraped with all the smooth, comfortable and luxury. That's a strange feeling which makes me isolated from the world outside.
She is so calm and quiet. But I always know there is a big heart under the hood that makes me smile all the time.


By the way, the massage is really effective for me which touch the right tensioned nerve. I believe, for massage, she is better than my wife,


Yes, if you could handle some maintenance or issues you enjoy the car in a different way. Plus you accumuate more skills.
I'm always curious about how stuff works. I got that habbit when I was a kid.
For sure you save some money too.


Hope you will have a smooth transition to Toronto. See you in the S600 Club.


Howard

haoz129

I believe the ABC system had not been serviced in my 2003 S600 before my purchasing. So I did the following task last month:
- M012 ABC suspension hydraulic fluid & filter replace
But after that the Left Rear sinks within 1 day which is faster than before. Before the oil replacement the same corner sunk within 4-5 days. Other three corners still seems fine though.

I thought if I introduced any contamination all four struts will be affected. So I ruled this possibility out.
I guess the new oil is in better condition and is thinner so made it easier to leak through the contaminated valve than the old oil.
Just like an old transmission has greater chance to break down after replacing oil due to fluid viscosity difference or dirts being stirred up.

Anyway, I took the Rear Valve block off and clean it to solve the issue.
Procedure:
- Jack up the car make sure rear wheels/struts unloaded. Later struts will be depressurized as hydraulic lines will be disconnected;
- Took off the cover for Rear Valve block and Fuel pump/filter which is under the car in front of Left Rear Wheel;
- Make sure start to work on the Valve Block only after engine stopped after 15 mins;
- Loose the control lines FB1 & FB2 slowly to depressurize both struts;
- Slowly loose all lines and detach them;
- Took the Valve Block off;
- Remove 2 check valves and 2 regulate valves from the aluminium block;
- Check all four valves and clean them up. The oil left in the Check Valve is pretty dirty which is the worst compared with all the oil drained. That's the only dirty oil left after the flushing. There is bit rust in the valve as well. I believe the old oil has already absorbed moisture that's why we need to replace the fluid.
- Replace O-Rings on all four valves;
- Clean Valve Block by running hydraulic fluid in all holes;
- Assemble all valves back to the block;
- Attach the Rear Valve Block back to car;
- Fasten all 5 hydraulic lines and torque nuts to 40nm. This is the hard part as there was very limited space to maneuver my big torque wrench;
- Lower the car and top off the ABC fluid;
- Start engine and monitor ABC fluid tank, top off if needed;
- Watch for any leak around the Valve Block.

Hooray ! Both rear struts lifted properly. After few days put the cover back since there is no leak.

Result:
In highest ABC setting, both struts dropped less than 1cm at the first 8 hours.
Two days passed, they hold very well and don't drop further.

Cost:
$30 for 12 O-Rings: width = 0.07 inch
- 2 O-Rings for each Check Valve (total 4 for two Check Valves): ID = 9, 10 (1/16 inch). These are the O-Rings fix the strut sink issue;
- 4 O-Rings for each Regulate Valve (total 8 for two Regulate Valves): ID = 7, 8, 10, 12 (1/16 inch). These are replaced for preventitive purpose;
- O-Rings can be sourced from local O-Ring/Rubber Seal supplier or Hydraulic System supplier;
$30 for Pentosin CH11S to rinse block and valves also for top off.

5 hours spent:
- Took off and re-install Valve Block;
- Clean up Valve Block and Valves;
- Replace O-Rings.

Pictures:
1, Location of Rear Valve Block;
2, All four valves: 2 check valves (left), 2 regulate vavles (right);
3, Valve Block with Return Oil Reservior, without valves;
4, Check Valve: some rust due to fluid moisture contamination;
5, Check Valve with Plugger out: need clean up;
6, Re-assembled and Re-installed Valve Block;

jnash

Brilliant work! Do you have the part numbers for the 12 o-rings? If they are not listed as Mercedes parts where can one obtain these o-rings?

haoz129

Thanks, Jnash.

The Valve Block is not a serviceable part according to MB. Dealer will only replace the Valve Block as a whole part (more than $1k). Hence there is no part No. for the valves let alone O-Rings.
I took all the O-Rings with me showing my application then got exact match in a local O-Ring supplier.

I have updated above document showing the size for all O-Rings.

Best regards.

Howard

BryanW203

Awesome job on the valve rebuild.

haoz129

Thanks Bryan.

One of my neighbour told me our parking lot was no longer level, he never doubted it's my Benz didn't level, .
Dorpping to the ground really make me feel she was sick although that didn't affect driving. I guess the leak may cause unnecessary pumping up the sinking strut during driving.

Now I am so happy to see the beauty holding her position nicely,

Best regards.

Howard

haoz129

According to Oliver's reminder and Maintenance Schedule I changed Cabin/Dust Filters.

Release 4 screws and pull the Glove Box out, see picture 1.
Locate and take off the Door of the filter housing behind the Glove Box, see picture 2.
Remove old filters and replace with new ones.
Re-assemble in reverse order.

Old filters are really dirty, see picture 3 for old new comparison.

Cost:
Mann filter set (OEM), $20.

10 mins work.

haoz129

Don't see guideline in "MB service manual" for Rear Differential oil change.
Only see Check and Fill in "MB Service and Product 2006".
I believe replace the Rear Diff oil every 60K miles will be sufficient.

Tools and parts:
- 14 mm allen bit;
- 14 mm open wrench and 14 mm crawfoot wrench used with allen bit together for drain plug since space is limited between this plug and exhaust pipe;
- Torque wrench;
- Hand pump and container;
- Diff oil, 2 liters: MB General Hypoid Gear Oil (85W-90), Part No. A001 989 17 03 10. BTW, A001 989 33 03 10 (75W-85) is newer fluid, get it if you could;
- Thread sealant;

Procedure:
- Drive car for a while to warm up diff oil;
- Front on curb and rear on ramp to make car level, in a parking lot;
- Car in Parking, engage Parking brake and block front wheels;
- Apply some PB Blaster to drain and filler plugs for easy remove;
- Loose filler plug;
- Place a drain pan and remove drain plug. For my car it's impossible to use ratchet or breaker bar with 14mm allen bit together to remove this plug. There is very limit space between this plug and the exhaust pipe. A open wrench can be used with allen bit to remove the plug;
- Drain the old oil. I got 1.9 liter out, and the oil is dark but very clear, should be in good condition. I ran a magnet through the oil, not a tiny bit metal caught. This Hypoid Gear oil is really thick and sticky like honey;
- Clean the drain plug and apply thread sealant on 2nd and 3rd thread. Replace the drain plug and tighten it to 50nm. A crawfoot wrench can be used with allen bit for torque tightening;
- Put new oil in container and engaged my hand pump;
- Remove filler plug and pump new oil until it start to drip.
- Clean the filler plug and apply thread sealant on 2nd and 3rd thread. Replace the drain plug and tighten it to 50nm.

Special notes: My 2003 S600 rear diff holds 1.9 liter not 1.6 liter as manual indicated. The differential was holding 1.9 liter oil and didn't drip when car is level. Seems it is really thirsty.

Cost:
- Diff oil, 2 liters, $86. MB General Hypoid Gear Oil (85W-90), Part No. A001 989 17 03 10.
- Thread sealant: $10.

Time:
2 hours.

Pictures:
1) Drain plug;
2) Fill plug;
3) 1.9 liter old oil;
4) new oil;
5) Oil pump system;

haoz129

MB recommend replacing fuel filter every 96kkm or 60K miles.
This car has 75K miles and I assume the fuel filter has not been replaced.

Part and tools:
- Fuel filter: A002 477 61 01, This is an upgrade version and only shared by 600s and Maybach.
- Screw Type Clamps: 11-13mm x 2 for hoses to Motor and Pump;
13-15mm for hose to Tank;
The original small crimp type clamp for ventilation is reused;
- Cutting Plier: small size one to pry off the crimp type clamps, large size one to refit the small crimp type clamp;
- Drill bit set used to plug hoses;
- Soft drink bottle to collect gas;
- Paper towel to clean spilled gas;

Procedure:
- Make sure nothing surround you could ignite the gas spilled;
- Drive car back wheels on ramp;
- Take off the Fuel Pump/Filter cover located in front of the left rear wheel;
- Pry off the clamp for the hose (to motor) by using a small cutting plier;
- Slowly disconnect the hose (to motor) to release the fuel/pressure and catch the gas. There is little fuel/pressure from the motor side, but half liter gas will come from the filter. I didn't run the engine to die to release the fuel pressure.
- Plug the hose with a drill bit;
- Pry off the small clamp for the hose (to Vent) and disconnect the hose, no gas will come from it. Keep the clamp on the hose for later reuse;
- Pry off the clamp for the hose (to Pump) and disconnect the hose. Plug the hose with a drill bit;
- Pry off the clamp for the hose (to Tank);
- Unscrew the bolt for the filter bracket and remove the filter;
- Disconnect the hose (to Tank) and plug the hose with a larger drill bit. Lots of gas will come from this hose if you don't plug it;
- Drain the filter and dispose the gas and filter properly;
- Put the new filter back and connect the hose (to Tank) with a 13-15mm new clamp;
- Connect the hose (to Vent) and re-clamp it by using a bigger cutting plier;
- Connect rest 2 hoses (to Motor and Pump) by using 11-13mm clamp;
- Fasten the filter bracket;
- Clean up everything. Especially spilled gas, collected gas, paper towel... take them away. Make sure anything can be ignited collected and disposed properly;
- Start the engine which will crank around 10 seconds as the pump fills the empty filter and builds up the fuel pressure;
- Check for any leakage from all four hoses connection;
- No leak and it's done.

I opened the old filter and it is dark brown. There is yellow powder seems like sulfur deposite.
The filter is well made which has valves to handle the over pressure and ventilation.

Cost: $175 for the filter.

1 hour work.

haoz129

Got message Low Beam, R, Check Light!
Got out the car and see passenger side Low Beam was off.

Bought a pair of D2S 6000K Xenon bulbs from Ebay for $38 instead of getting from dealer for $175 each.
- Open the hood and pull the right low beam cover off;
- Turn the igniter counter clockwise, remove the connector then remove the igniter;
- Turn the plastic lock ring counter clockwise and remove it;
- Pull the old Xenon bulb straight out and remove;
- Put the new one in and use the plastic lock ring to keep the bulb in place;
- Put the igniter back and connect the wire then place the low beam cover;

Start the car and right low beam is back on. I think the left side is still 4300K and right is 6000K now. I can see the color difference but not too much, see pictures. So I didn't change the driver side to 6000K to match the passenger side.
Maybe I should left it run longer then check the result.

Cost: $38 for the pair from Ebay.

10 mins work.

benz_addict

Great thread! Where in ONT are you? If you ever need a helping hand let me know!

haoz129

Thanks.

I'm currently in London, ONT and 2 years ago we moved from Scarbourgh.

Best regards.

Howard

IntimacyGel

I screwed off at work today reading all archives of your ventures. I must say that I had to post here to tell you what a fantastic resolve you have.

Like you I want to repair every problem that happens. Even If I have lay on my back in the garage all day, I feel like I'm a terrible human if I can't use my hands to fix something that a Stealer would fix with their hands as well.

I have a 2002 c230 kompressor @ 120kmi (2 owners, my dad was the first owner and he only ever did oil changes)
My wife has a 2005 c240 @ 30kmi

I've only ever replaced fluids, filters, tires, breaks, and spark plugs in my cars luckily so these 2 cars, forum posters here like you, and haynes manuals have convinced me that if you do maintenance and repairs yourself, MB are the cars to last a lifetime. And not TOO bad on the wallet (again if you DIY)

However, as you can see.. my experience is only with c class. It's all I could afford. I bought my c230 @80k for $5500 and my wifes c240 @ 27k for $12k w/ trade in of a ****ty ****ty vw that had 220k miles on it and throwing codes no matter what I did.

All I want is a S600. I got promoted recently (not much $ more) and hope to get promoted again, but my car will almost be paid off. I plan on keeping my c230 as a beater or for my kids when I have them. Anyways. I eventually should be looking at more money/month for another MB. I want nothing more than a S600, but the 2007 + models start at 45k+ because they are the new chassis and engine. I was wondering if through all of your effort, you would still recommend a 2005-2006 S600 even if I'm buying a year or two down the road? A few months ago I was set on leasing a E63 AMG a year from now, but I really want comfort and all the bells and whistles. S600 being closer to a spaceship than a car, would quench my thirst.

What are your thoughts on ownership thus far?

Thanks,

Gel

haoz129

Gel,

Sorry for the late reply. We were busy moving last week. And thanks for all your kind words.

You have the great attitude and enough experience.
Actually I know nothing about Mercedes until this year. To be honest I have never sit in a Benz before last December when I test drove this S600. All my experience with cars come from 5 years ownership of my Volvo XC70.
So your works on 'C' is much better than I did and it will be easy to transfer to 'S'.

And, yes, Mercedes does great job. The cars are worth us to maintain and repair. They are nice cars and solid base for us to grow and accumulate our experience.

Happy to see you got promoted and it will be nice to step up to an 'S'.
S600 is the best car on the market in many aspect. Like others said it is not the most expensive car but the best car money can buy. For sure if I could have a 2005-2006 S600 it would be an idea case. I still prefer S600 especially after going though all the maintenance and repair since I know how much good stuff were put there.

Actually the 2007 V12 is pretty much the same. Only 17 hp more which is not enough to compensate the added weight. And many said for S600 the engine power number was downplayed to give room for AMG version. That said you get more power than you imagined or published elsewhere.

But do bear in mind a S600 has more chance to have issue since it is so complex and advanced. I'm not saying Toyota is much more reliable than Mercedes. Just think about an Boeing 747 which need checkup after every landing. Neglect will lead to disaster. But nobody say Boeing 747 is less reliable than a Corolla. S600 is just complex and advanced hence expensive to own.

After my half year ownership of this 2003 S600 here are words come to my mind:
Our family is so lucky having it. I am around half of retiring age and I didn't wait till retire to own this amazing car. I must be blessed.
S600 is so well designed, tuned, refined and manufactured.
It is the best blend of safety, comfort, luxury, performance and sport.
By thinking further, I'd like to add a few more words to describe this car: quality, reliable, technology and style.
It is spacious, smooth and quiet. The V12 is quiet but ready pushing you anytime. Wind and road noise are faded to minimum. Suspension with ABC reduces road vibration significantly. I always have a strange feeling that I am isolated from the outside world when I drive this car. Time is stopped. I don't mind how others drive around me. I just take my time and enjoy my ride.
I can only listen to pop music in my XC70. But I start to bring my old classical CDs into the S600, even vocal and Orchestras. In the cabin it creates just the right atmosphere for me to think in a musical way. This never happened in my Volvo.
You may not able to tell how comfortable in a S600 but after a long trip you definitely will feel the relax.
I may not able to explain the difference but my wife told the story in her way. She has motion sickness. She is afraid of sleeping in our Volvo, that will ruin every trip. But she start to sleep in this S600 after we bought it. She said S600 is so comfortable and not sway or vibrate that much.
Like Jeremy Clarkson said in Top Gear for S-Class review: If you buy one of these, you live longer.
Yes, S600 is on the top of all 'S'.
And you can imagine how the kids love the back seat. My elder daughter said she feels like a queen every time sit in the car, yeah, she rules the right rear.
For me, I seldom drive fast. I always enjoy the trip and hope every trip to be longer. But I do know, on the road, so little cars can outrun this. I do just like others said I find every occasion to go out and drive. I smile when I was behind the wheel and I smile even just think about her.

When I sit in the car and start to drive, all the words come to alive. And like others said if you enjoy this car there is no substitute.
You bet, I am smiling when I write this to you.

Take you time and to be patient to find your dream car.

Howard

haoz129

Issue description:
CD Catridge stuck in the 6 CD changer which is located in the trunk.
The 3rd CD tray is mounted which can't be retrieved.
By pushing eject button the CD changer tried to retract the 3rd CD but failed.

Manually eject CD catridge:
- Remove left trunk liner to expose CD changer;
- Remove 4 screws holding the CD changer and remove the changer;
- Remove the top cover of the changer case;
- Retract the stuck tray by turning the big black gear;
- Eject the whole CD catridge by turning the small black gear;
- Assamble and resintall CD changer in reverse order.

kraut56

Howard,
I'm looking at a car similar to yours.

I have a small garage fullof a lot of tools (too many) - and I know how to use them.

My question: You appear to have a Star Diagnostic.

What kind is it, and where did you get it.

Since yours seems to work well, I would like to go that route.

I don't think I should even think to go near an S600 without it.

thnx

haoz129

PM sent my friend.

Yes, you'd better have access to Star to maintain a W220. Rule out all the guessing works.

Nice that you can DIY from which you could enjoy a W220 in a different way.
S600 is so well build a machine which worth you to work on.

If you are going to shop for a S600 please check the link in my signature for my purchase adventure which may give you some hints. Lots of W220 especially S600 owners contributed their opinions base on their experience and knowledge.

Good luck.

Howard

kraut56

Howard,
I have read everyone of your posts, and I would have never gone near any S600 before reading your post.

It's exactly my nature for more than 40 years: take it apart and find out what's wrong with it; it is almost always mechanical, rather than electronic; broken solders or connection etc.

it doesn't scare me!

kraut56

I don,t have an IBM T 30, but, an old Toshiba lying around.

Any suggestions??

thnx

AH1W-COBRA

I use Dubai/Qatar at least 3 times each year as an entry/exit country to access afghan and i never look forward to the oppressive heat/humidity in those beautiful countries. bring your jacket, make sure your MB gets a heated garage to sit in at night and enjoy your new home!

haoz129

Haven't has issues after all my repair and preventative maintenance after purchase. When hanging around saw ABC car owner has ABC issues which cost a lot to fix. Actually some of them could aviod spending big $$ if acted properly when have the issue.

Base on my understanding with ABC, not anything official, here is a general procedure/action list to follow when ABC issue happen, for example when ABC message lit, a big bang under the hood like high pressure line exploded, or smell of Pentosin:
1) Pull over when in traffic, stop the car asap when safe to do so.
This will save your pump if only a hose broke or o-ring gone. The ABC pump keeps running when engine is on. It need hydraulic fluid for lubrication. It is safe to run for only a short time, let's say 1 min, not guaranteed, with fluid left to lubricate. For any prolonged period it will die for sure without fluid coming in.
2) Write down the warning msg for later reference, check for any fluid leakage and struts level. Then check ABC fluid level.
3) Try not to re-start the car hoping it will be fine. Only start the car when you have a solution or you have to.
4) If you have no idea about what is happening then have the car towed and checked.
5) If car level is fine, no fluid leakage, ABC fluid level is fine and only get white ABC msg. You can drive to have it checked.
6) If any of the checking in 2) failed there is risk keep driving:
- Car level is not good, one or more corner is too low, there is risk for fender damage and car handles poorly. In case you have to drive, drive slowly avoid tight turn or uneven road.
- Fluid leaking or ABC fluid level is low. You may lose the pump and pressure due to lack of lubrication.
- Any red ABC msg is bad news and should be treated carefully and immediately.
7) If struts level are all fine and in case you insist driving don't raise or lower the car since you may not be able to raise it anymore. Again you may lose the pump if there is no lubrication.
8) If you have to drive a short period and there is no fluid. To save the pump you may want to take the belt off. But this is not proved to be safe as you won't have power steering, Coolant pump or Generator. When drive without the belt, turn off all electrics and keep monitoring engine temperature. Again this is not a proven method and use it on your own risk.

Thanks.

Howard