Lesson learned during ABC maintenance: Never show off.

[haoz129]

Just replaced ABC suspension hydraulic fluid and filter for my 2003 S600. Here is the details: http://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html Had an accident and learned a lesson today when I showed the benz dancing. ABC tandem pump sucked air and no longer push fluid, that means: - Car sit low; - Car can't be raised; - ABC red warning pup up "Drive Carefully"; - ABC system pressue only 10 bars. Anyway I corrected the problem but know I need concentrate on my work in the future. Thanks. Howard

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[DRTYLNDY]

Originally Posted by haoz129

Just replaced ABC suspension hydraulic fluid and filter for my 2003 S600. Here is the details:
http://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html

Had an accident and learned a lesson today when I showed the benz dancing. ABC tandem pump sucked air and no longer push fluid, that means:
- Car sit low;
- Car can't be raised;
- ABC red warning pup up "Drive Carefully";
- ABC system pressue only 10 bars.

Anyway I corrected the problem but know I need concentrate on my work in the future.

Thanks.

Howard

Lesson learned. A few years ago my pump also ingested air and it never recovered. The car had about 80K miles at the time. I knew I had a front leaking strut BUT I just ignored it for a while until it was too late. Front strut, ABC pump, two valve blocks and a CRAP load of the Pentocin. Ohh yea and a lot of swears! Good luck Howard.
Johan

[babyman1737]

Is there anything you wish you would've done differently in the bleeding/filling of your ABC system? Besides the showoff?

[haoz129]

Originally Posted by DRTYLNDY

Lesson learned. A few years ago my pump also ingested air and it never recovered. The car had about 80K miles at the time. I knew I had a front leaking strut BUT I just ignored it for a while until it was too late. Front strut, ABC pump, two valve blocks and a CRAP load of the Pentocin. Ohh yea and a lot of swears! Good luck Howard.
Johan

Yeah, that's hurt indeed.

Originally Posted by babyman1737

Is there anything you wish you would've done differently in the bleeding/filling of your ABC system? Besides the showoff?

I was doing fluid and filter replacement. By using a home made flushing system I hope it's easier.

Howard

[haoz129]

As the 1st post mentioned I flushed the ABC by using Pentosin CH11S. Feeling the suspension is better especially over bumps, but maybe just feeling.

The downside is left rear strut sink faster than before.
Before the oil replacement left rear will sink within 4-5 days. With the new oil that strut sink within 1 day. Other three corners still seems fine though.

I thought if I introduced any contamination all four struts will be affected. So I ruled this out.
Or I guess the new oil is in better condition and is thinner so made it easier to leak through the contaminated valve than the old oil.

Any ideas, guys ?

Anyway, I'm going to clean the rear valve body and replace all the O-rings in the valves.

Thanks.

Howard

[MRAMG1]

Originally Posted by haoz129

As the 1st post mentioned I flushed the ABC by using Pentosin CH11S. Feeling the suspension is better especially over bumps, but maybe just feeling.

The downside is left rear strut sink faster than before.
Before the oil replacement left rear will sink within 4-5 days. With the new oil that strut sink within 1 day. Other three corners still seems fine though.

I thought if I introduced any contamination all four struts will be affected. So I ruled this out.
Or I guess the new oil is in better condition and is thinner so made it easier to leak through the contaminated valve than the old oil.

Any ideas, guys ?

Anyway, I'm going to clean the rear valve body and replace all the O-rings in the valves.

Thanks.

Howard

Valve block is my guess Howard.

By flushing it, you propably injected some dirt in it, causing the leak down to be faster. My MB mechanic informed me that the valve blocks valve is actually steel, which is why they leak donw over a week or so.

Good luck

[haoz129]

Originally Posted by MRAMG1

Valve block is my guess Howard.

By flushing it, you propably injected some dirt in it, causing the leak down to be faster. My MB mechanic informed me that the valve blocks valve is actually steel, which is why they leak donw over a week or so.

Good luck

Yes, Marty.
I have the same feeling and I'm there with the valves taken off.

The oil left in the Check Valve is pretty dirty which is the worst compared with all the oil drained. That's the only dirty oil left after the flushing.
There is bit rust in the valve as well. I believe the old oil has already absorbed moisture that's why we need to replace the fluid.

I'm gonna clean the valves and body, all the o-rings will be replaced as well.

Some pictures attached.

Thanks.

Howard

[haoz129]

Friday exercise putting the rear valve body together and installed.

Gave all four valves clean up and replace all 12 O-Rings. Also ran oil through the aluminum body to clean any contamination.
Put all valves into the body then bolt it back. The hard part is to torque all 5 union nuts to 40nm making sure all pipes no leak. Too little space to maneuver my big torque wrench.

Anyway tried my best to tight them up and top off the fluid.
Start engine. Hooray ! Both rear struts lifted properly. No leak.

So far so good. Will report back how long they sink.

Thanks.

Howard

[haoz129]

Hi,

After clean up the rear Valve Block and all the Valves and replace O-Rings. The issue solved.
In highest ABC setting, both struts dropped less than 1cm at the first 8 hours.
Two days passed, they hold very well and don't drop further.

Here I documented some details:
http://mbworld.org/forums/5184137-post81.html

Thanks.

Howard

[MRAMG1]

Great job my friend, and congrats on another fine project completed

[Jobi Joba]

Where did you get the O-rings?

[haoz129]

Originally Posted by Jobi Joba

Where did you get the O-rings?

You could check the link provided in post#9 for more details.

Thanks.

[Jobi Joba]

Originally Posted by haoz129

- 2 O-Rings for each Check Valve (total 4 for two Check Valves): ID = 9, 10 (1/16 inch). These are the O-Rings fix the strut sink issue;
- 4 O-Rings for each Regulate Valve (total 8 for two Regulate Valves): ID = 7, 8, 10, 12 (1/16 inch). These are replaced for preventitive purpose;

Thx! Trouble is I'm a metric guy (living in France...sorry...)

For example, for each check valve, I'll need one O-ring of 9/16 inch of internal diameter, and one of 10/16 inch, both measuring 0.07 inch in width? Am I right?

[haoz129]

Originally Posted by Jobi Joba

Thx! Trouble is I'm a metric guy (living in France...sorry...)

For example, for each check valve, I'll need one O-ring of 9/16 inch of internal diameter, and one of 10/16 inch, both measuring 0.07 inch in width? Am I right?

Yes, you are correct.

Actually I'm in Canada and we are using Metric too. The industry here provide O-Rings in SAE though.
I don't really mind which system to go, I just try to find the best match.

You can go with my suggestion but if you could take the valves with you to a local supplier they will help you.
The material is also matter. I got Teflon and firmer O-Rings than original when I showed my application.
They are cheap so get the best you can.

Good luck.

Howard

[Jobi Joba]

Originally Posted by haoz129

You can go with my suggestion but if you could take the valves with you to a local supplier they will help you.

You lucky guys in Canada... We don't have such local suppliers where we can find o-rings easily...

Originally Posted by haoz129

The material is also matter. I got Teflon and firmer O-Rings than original when I showed my application.

I see what I'll be able to find... I hope I'll find such products.

Thank you very much for your help!