Quadcammer

I guess I just don't get the big fuss.

The struts generally make it 75k to 100k miles.

Contrary to popular belief, they don't often fail out of the blue with no warning signs.

The whole system can be replaced for less than $2500.

You can find front reman Arnotts for about $350 per. $700 for the front

New Rear struts can be found for about $440 each. $880 for the rear.

New compressor is $260, new valve block is about $280. Add some additional parts like a new filter, relay, etc. Call it $600.

Now you're at about $2200.

Rare, but if you have bad control module, you can get a good used one on ebay for $100.

Now, is $2,300 for an entirely new suspension seems to me to be very similar to parts for other high end cars.

Best part, all of these things can be done DIY with little difficulty and only some special tools.

Best of all, its not really that complicated a system.

So, really whats the problem?

vmystikilv

I don't consider airmatic that big of a deal. Its funny, when I had range rovers, the first sign of any leak I would toss the whole system in a instant. But, my S500, I keep repairing it. Its not difficult and its not a crazy expense either if you know what your doing and can diagnose yourself.


I just got a CL with ABC. After having this, airmatic is like a walk in the park.


but I think the problem is people don't do there homework, pay dealer prices, and others try to take advantage of the consumer so the car gets a bad rap. Just my opinion.

tusabes

$2200 DIY is $4-6000 at an Indy shop or $8-10k at a dealer

Most people don't DIY

Considering many w220 can be bought for much less than that , yes its scary that a repair costs more than the car

ttaylor993

Coming from a relatively new owner of a 2004 S430, the issue is it is unexpected in both the frequency that it occurs in this class of car and the cost from the dealer. You are correct, if you do a little homework and do the work yourself you can reduce the cost of this (and any other repair/maintenance) issue considerably. So far I have been very fortunate with my car. I paid less than $7k for it in immaculate condition. I have only had to replace tail light bulbs, a tranny mount and the instrument cluster. The mount cost me $70 parts and labor and the cluster was still under warranty. Frankly, if I knew then what I know now about airmatic I probably would not have bought the car. But, having done so, I am glad that I did. I love the car. If I have a problem with the airmatic it will not be a surprise and I'll know exactly what to do.

ttaylor993

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mcguirja

I did replace the airmatic pump at the dealer about 4 years ago, it was only $600 in total. Based on my experience I'd buy the car with airmatic again without hesitation. I've been driving it since about the 20,000 mile mark, it was 18 months old when I purchased it and the pump is the only suspension issue I've had.

lganski

My W220 is a 2006 and I currently have 244K on it. I replaced the airmatic pump a few years ago because of a bad relay that burned it out. I check my sturt tops for cracks on a regular basis. So far so good. The car seems to eat alternators though. I end up replacing it about every 4 years. Also I just replaced the original battery out of guilt.

Quadcammer

well seems i need to eat some crow, I have an unusual airmatic issue

I have an issue with the rear of my car dropping overnight. Drivers side worse than the passenger (no fingers between tire and fender on drivers, 1 finger on passenger).

Drivers rear strut is new, valve block is new, relay is new, compressor is new, new filter.

Tested with STAR. Communicating fine with the control module, compressor working, valve block working. no leak between pump and valve block, no leak between reservoir and block.

Spray test on lines result in no bubbles. Lines cut and reinstalled with new fittings on rear...no change.

No errors on dash, lifts right up at start up. Always drops overnight, some times worse than others.

I got nothing left at this point. What am I missing here?

thanks

vmystikilv

are both rear struts new? I had an issue where one rear strut was bad and cause the whole rear to drop. I did end up replacing one strut, but the other one I just had to tighten the fitting at the top and all was good.

Quadcammer

No only one rear strut is new.

To be honest, I don't think either strut is the problem as the problems started after I installed a new valve block.

pppham

Thought the diagnostic for airmatic seems easy enough. I have repleced several parts already (EBM, relay, leaks, one strut). I had the car for 6 yrs now (150k). Stranded 3 times out of town due to air matic. The recent one, luckly was on my drive way when the LF collapsed. The pump constantly running to keep the fender above the wheel no more than 1/2". Bite the bullet! I decided to go with Arnott strutts and killed airmatic totally. Driven it for a month now. It performed very well. Do I think about the luxury of airmatic (e.g self leveling, sports mode, high adjustment).... Absolutel, however, the thought of being stranded and constant issues with airmatic when traveling thus made me to go with this route.

All in all, as OP stated, you can go with what recommended. In my case, I spent less than $1700 to replace the following:

All four strutts from Arnott $1300 (with refund for old cores)
All four rotors and pad (slotted/Drilled and ceramic) $220
Two lower ball joint (Lamfoeder) $49
Alignment $89
Loaner tools from Advance Auto

I am not a mechanic. Just don't want to be rapped by the $tealer. Everything I have done to my vehicle is about this forum. So many contributors here that I wanted to thanks, just don't remember all the names. I don't know how to pay back or what to contribute. If any member here needs something to do with the airmatic system let me know so that I can take off the car for you (ofcourse excluding the air shocks).